Crystal voyager only for the echoes scene at the end.
Billabong surf into summer
Surfers of fortune.
Holy Water - Gotcha
Anyone see the news they are going to make a film adaptation of Finnegan's Barbarian Days - A Surfing Life?
Be interesting how that goes in movie format, somewhat excited as I loved the book, huge life story to tell in a movie setting though. Hopefully some quality footage in there. Tavarua...
james franco to play bill finnegan?
who plays doc?
Barbarian Days has the potential to be a great movie. Looking forward to it.
I'd like to see Barbarian Days as a film but it would be near impossible to do it justice. The book is full of subtlety, Finnegan conjures such a sense of time and place and it would be lost on screen. And then there's the surfing, if it isn't at say big Jardim with boulders the size of cars being rolled around what's the point.
Agree. Without Finnegan's dexterity it's just another surf jaunt.
And I have a feeling surfers will be picking boulder-size holes in Hollywood's attempt to recreate period surf destinations: Kirra '78, camping on Tavarua, Honolua before the crowds.
Plenty of surfers around who’d be willing to do the action footage! As long as Bill was an intermediate goofy foot sign me up!
Regular foot. Sorry :-)
"They paved paradise
And put up a parking lot
With a pink hotel, a boutique
And a swinging hot spot
Don't it always seem to go
That you don't know what you've got til its gone
They paved paradise
And put up a parking lot
Cupla tubes -Bruno Santos -Desert Pt
Fark, Bruno can thread a tube.
How much fun does DP look at that size.
Zen ....it’s worth going to Deserts just to sit on the beach and marvel at the way nature can create such a perfect, perfect venue for something as fickle and demanding as surfing.
The alignment of the reef , the way swell funnels along it , the predominant wind direction, the water temp and colour , the backdrop and the blue sky . It’s fucking crazy.
It’s like being told the formidable odds against winning powerball and then still somehow buying the winning ticket.
Probably should take a board with you.
Fast boat Serangan to DP - 45 mins.
Got a good mate lives Lombok full-time. He's been asking me to come visit for years.
Flick P at Cow Bombie
He's on another level. Not much arm flapping, is there.
One of my vicarious pleasures during this damned Covid year has been to watch Bruno Santos surf Padang, massive Ulus, Deserts.
Bit strange how this comes up now Udo, swell of the decade was over 5 years ago !
Yes- loaded onto Utube Oct 21st
currently no sponsors ?
That Nias Swell- described by Nathan Florence
Nothing short of mesmerising
Also gotten into the Ain’t that swell videos . Couldn’t ever do the audio podcasts so it’s good to see the crew doing it properly . I get it now . Very relatable banter . Jed and Corn are awesome hosts. Good guests. Uncensored gold.
Incredible vid by Willcox, especially that last section.
Mind blowing Blowin, such epic surfing in heavy, heavy water and those combos from barrel to turns and all as he's having the time of his life! One of my fav vids.
Chippo giving it a nudge, nice work.
That was wicked Blowin.
Dane Reynolds Tom Curren
Tom on a Skim Disc Thingy
Youngster just won the Classic in total mud too on the weekend.
Good stuff...well, with the sound down.
1999 movie by Derek Hynd
Mick Campbell fucking shreds
Here’s a slice of gold for your Friday arvo knees up .
Unreal blowin, now ya talking, bloody beautiful.
Sea of Darkness - can watch here for those that havent seen it
Blowin that vid is one of the most enjoyable ones I've watched. Beautiful
Saw that a while back. Lovely vid.
Really miss that part of the world.
Thanks Udo. I wonder if that is the full or redacted version.
1. Endless Summer
2. Big Wednesday
3. Chasing Mavericks
4. Riding Giants
"Sea of Darkness - can watch here for those that havent seen it
Watched this again yesterday first time in years, its an interesting story/docco but i actually find it really depressing and sad, so many guys could have had the best life's but fucked their life's up basically for greed and money and guys that were also really talented surfers.
Martin Daley comes out looking the best from it all, seems he never lost site of the dream, and Peter McCabe kept his life together too.
BTW one thing i don't get is they say they did their first trip to Mentawai islands in early 80s (83 from memory) but then the Lance knight HT's story doesn't happen until 91
First trips I think were to Panaitan. Then Enganno. Then Ments. Don't know the timing but I think that was the order.
Also, does anyone know which version the streaming sea of darkness is? I saw one on a boat trip a long time ago and then one online and I remember the one on the boat trip having a lot more detail.
Im not sure on what version it was, i have a feeling its the edited version, as painted Martin in a pretty good light, and he is the one who owns the rights too it, because he wasn't happy with how he was portrayed.
Anyway it didn't last long, its already been removed from that link, it's amazing how persistent and efficient they are in removing any copies online.
Kangaroo Beach... ABC Clubbie Cartoon Series.
This one's for swellnet micro Gromz & their Hodads...(OK! Big Gromz too!)
Kitty Flanagan : (Sandy) "You don't choose the Board...The Board chooses You!
Cheesy Big Kauna rip from " Sandy's Surf School " / Surf Pro Karnival.
Shit Hot Surf Action episode...lay back & chill.
Yes! Of course you get the high drama Shark Drone Episode!
Yes! Of course all the surfers can switchfoot & surf dunes & shit!
Theme song by Indecent Obsession keyboardist with Josh Pyke on vocals.