Submitted by Blowin on Wed, 07/30/2014 - 08:07
The wave of the day does it for me big time. Nice work Steen Barnes , Shaun Anderson and Swellnet.
In one photo you've encompassed everything nice about surfing. If I was a wanker I'd say that it was perfect except for the fact he is in a wetsuit. Which it is , it's perfect .....except for the fact he's in a wetsuit.
Nothing like being inspired to surf when the ocean resembles a lake.
I heart today's Wave of the Day. What a shot, to see the swell refracting in, barreling and then hitting the deep dead water. So much to look at and admire. Love it!
I'm with you Craig. I love lineup shots more than anything and that one is really unique!
An empty line up shot trumps all. I do love watching swell lines wrap . A plane ride over any stretch of coast and I'm glued to that window. Pausing for the drinks trolley of course.
I'll kick old ladies and kids out of the way if it means I get a window seat on a plane ride. Looking at coastal landforms and swell lines from 10,000 feet is exciting no matter what your age. Even just the Aussie East Coast from the Syd-Coolie flight, all those promiment headlands - Crescent Head, Hat Head, Crowdy Head, Lennox Head - giving way to wide sweeping bays to the north. The geographical similarity makes it clear they were formed at the same time and subject to similar forces. Just stare out the window and wonder about the enormity of it all.
Best trip for mine is flying over the Western Pacific on the way to Pohnpei and seeing the seemingly endless atolls sitting there in the middle of a vast ocean. Potential? Enormous...
I've lost track at all the little islands/atolls I've looked at in the WP with no name and seeing the perfect little reef passes with the white water trails and swell lines wondering if anyone has actually got there let alone surf them.
Recently flew a domestic flight from central to Male atolls, got to see some of the spots we surfed from above. It was unreal, didn't get the window seat mind you..
I've admired the coast Esperance East to the nullabor many times from a plane and I've seen some beautiful looking areas. I'm looking at the entrance to the track from the Balladonia end right now and thinking should I ? But it looks like a chance of a bit of rain in a couple of days and there is meant to be some forbidding bogs and salt flats that I'm not keen to chance with our limited food so I'm going to come in from Esperance and do a lap that way after the rain.
Definitely not Indo but maybe a tastey beachie or sly reef to explore . Might even catch a fish on the way.
All this desire from peering out the window of a plane.
At the least the coast looks beautiful from 10kms up.
You've got to love fuel at $2 a litre. Looks like the rivers of gold are still flowing for Balladonia Roadhouse.
Blowin wrote: An empty line up shot trumps all. I do love watching swell lines wrap . A plane ride over any stretch of coast and I'm glued to that window. Pausing for the drinks trolley of course.
Never wait for the drinks trolley Blowin;)
Push the service button straight away, or go and sweet talk the Gay male airline attendant at the back, that works a treat.
Our brains are too small at the moment to comprehend the reality of what's happening in our forests . We're only just waking up so to speak . The big problem is we think we know everything, we are specks of dust on a timeline and we know nothing .
How good is sitting in chair with a servant at your fingertips , waiting for you to push that button and dash down the aisle to provide you with another refreshment ? "Would Sir like some salted nuts with his beverage ?" - Why thank you, I think I shall.....
All the while the Earth unfolds below you as you hurtle through space towards an exotic destination. Brings a tear to a mans eye just to think of it it does.
Salted nuts? Beverages? You make it sound like this stuff is free.
Barely change from a twenty for either when I fly.
Haha Blowin good work
Stu Qantas after lunchtime and all is at your finger tips for free and more
Yeah same.. i had a flight once from Brissy to Bali and we flew along the coast from Rote to Bali, there was a nice swell running and i could pick all the name spots like Nembrala, Lakeys and a lot more.
fitzroy-21 wrote: I've lost track at all the little islands/atolls I've looked at in the WP with no name and seeing the perfect little reef passes with the white water trails and swell lines wondering if anyone has actually got there let alone surf them.
Um whats WP?
# Ollie Dousset #
You are my Hero
Those captions ! You fellas are on fire. Who is responsible ? Give yourself a gentle , deserved pat on the back.
That'd be Stu. Yes, he's been in form of late!
Cheers Blowin. I gave myself a metaphorical pat on the back with an extra long session at the point this morning.
On your authorisation of course.
Quality waves ?
My authorisation isn't going to work forever mate. I've heard Ben is spewing at your tardiness and was going to demand your keys to the Swellnet Archival Room. Craig was a voice of reason in his ear apparently.
Blowin wrote: Quality waves ?
Little bit of south in the wind but enough east in the swell to wrap through the best sections. Coupla barrels and crowd pretty mellow. Got a screamer on my last wave and the local photog say he got the shot. Might look good printed and framed in the Swellnet Archival Room.
Don't hide your light under a bushel Stu. I'm thinking blown up so big it's a floor to ceiling mural behind the secretary in the Swellnet towers foyer( the sexy one that knows you're happily taken but is so enamoured she can't help but flirt, regardless of her billionaire boyfriend ) .
Sounds like you scored......bastard.
Great photo. Not massive but looks so fun. It's a cliche, I know, but I'd be happy never turning again if it was a choice between turns and barrels.
" We want to go to pipeline , sure Wiz." As TC and Bryce apply the magic wax. Before Victoria ate the book and ruined the whole deal.... Or did she?
Thanks Blowin, was a special couple of sessions with just me and a couple of mates late Saturday and dawn Sunday. It's all you need, eh.
Great photo. Nice and deep. He's still got it.
Is that THE Terry Richardson?
Wow, blast from the past. Yeah, still got it for sure.
Watashi wa metabo oyagi desu.
Yep, it's Richo. Here he is setting it up:
How old would he be now? Early to mid fifties?
See Warshaw's EOS entry: http://encyclopediaofsurfing.com/entries/richardson-terry
"Richardson was born (1956) and raised in Wollongong. A chronic late bloomer, he didn't begin surfing until age 15, didn't turn pro until 25, and posted his biggest win—at the 1997 Oxbow Masters, a contest for retired world tour pros—at 40."
A few classic Black Rocks waves in the clip too.
I'd love to be surfing that well in my fifties.
I remember the first time I surfed that place. We drove down early and had it to ourselves just about all day until a couple of the locals Ray and another guy came out. We were just about to go when this skinny kid appeared with a couple of mates and just got barrel after barrel. The guy I was with, Glen Brown, was shooting photos for Surfing World so he just set straight back up and took a few. It was Richo of course and I am guessing it was 70 or 71. Great to see him still ripping! If you track the magazine down, I was the inside cover spread!
Would love to see that photo of you BB. Any chance you can post it ?
Tuesday morning this week I was there!! - scored some great waves as was passing through enzed for 2 days
That definitely trumps car issues in a mining town. Lucky bastard.
Poor Blowin thats what you get for being the travelling slut ;)
Rags pumps for sure big carves saltman, the water moves slower, different style of surfing.
Did you surf Indies that day...?
Went round to surf indies after a surf at Manu -
Indies had a great shaped section on the inside - outside was a little bumpy - some of the larger sets went all the way thru to Whale Bay - and thats exactly what caught me during my paddle out - 15 minutes of white water later ended up on the inside section of Whale Bay so surfed it for the next 2 hours with 6 - 12 guys out.
Your right just a great feeling driving long turns thru slow moving water but plenty of power - rode a bonzer and it felt perfect
Awesome stuff Saltman:) What kind of bonzer...?
WOTD 26/1/2015, This photo has got my cosmic psychology stumped....! can anyone explain the photo.
Well Welly, in a cosmic sense, it symbolises a return into the womb, a kind of retrograde rebirthing where the surfer riding inferior equipment realises his folly and returns to his moment of conception to later emerge energised, having cast off the yoke that is binding the wings of his own full potential.
Either that or the go-pro on the nose of his board has captured the moment he's ploughed into the closeout section coming the other way.
What about that thing in SA today ! The longer I look at it the bigger it gets.
@ blowin you would think that wave must break often seeing that every month theres more pics of it but theyre all from one day . And marky mathews paddle waimea ! next we'll have eddie aikau getting barrelled at THE right !
Eddie would tow?
I won't be the least bit surprised when Eddie does turn up at the Right, Caml.
After being finally discovered living like Tom Hanks in Castaway on a flyspeck pacific island by some Japanese longline fishermen he's going to have a lot of lost ground to make up when he returns to civilisation.
He'll still be fit as fuck due to surfing everyday on his coconut palm board that he shaped using ancient Hawiian techniques and half a hermit crab shell. Ready to take on everything the modern world has to offer.
Contrary to popular beliefs, Eddie will take up the tow rope with a vengeance . Realising that he's not getting any younger, he'll accept an offer of sponsorship from Red Bull and engage on a whirl wind attempt to surf every quality break that's been discovered throughout the world since his unfortunate stranding.
Like a ripping , modern day Phileas Fogg, Eddie will criss cross the globe in a decal covered Red Bull jet getting pitted, bedding starlets and producing A Grade television as his exploits are documented and broadcast on the FOX network. I assume that Ellen Degenres will be hosting the highlights specials.
Then , like Elvis, the trials and tribulations of constant media attention will lead to a social anxiety disorder and a Red Bull induced heart attack .
But not before he has finally won The Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau contest at historically large Waimea Bay.
Great photo. The iconic image - the semi-freefall Waimea drop.
1961 or 2015. It does not look much different.
@caml and Blowin,
I thought that the boogers who uncovered that spot were going to take it's location " to the grave. "
It seems like, now, every time conditions align there is a film crew ready and waiting.
Je suis Udo.
@zambes thats true the ol le boogie mag
wellymon wrote: Awesome stuff Saltman:) What kind of bonzer...?
6'3" round pin 19.5 wide 2.5 thick - pic in my avatar - home made a couple of years ago
Only get it out when its over 4ft
Yeah I thought so Saltman,
Nice looking tail on her.
The middle fin looks quite big, bigger than the rest why....?
Been very interested in the bonzers, from some of FR76's posts and some chaps from USA (http://bonzer5.com/boards/)
a mate of mine put me on too...?
Maybe move this to the designo boardie stuff forum, very interested Saltman, always looking at different boards to ride:)
Today's WOTD - The Jetty ?