thought this was preety COOL >>>
Not so keen on the toon but worth the price of admission just for that cutty at the end. Style belies power.
A sweet weekend? Sitting here on the Goldy, two days into a trip and I've had enough. Heat, humidity and crowds bring out the misanthrope in me.
It's me Oirish blood, Sid. Runs too thick for this climate, makes we wanna do...nasty things. Surfed Wommin on Saturday, 3-4 foot and just two of us out. A temporary reprieve. Got up at 4:30 this morning, ran through Coolangatta, out to the tip of Snapper thinking I'd have it to myself, or at least have it uncrowded. Wrong. Could see dots running down each beach track in the weak light. And out by the keyhole a horde of surfers moving in unison like a battalion of the People's Army. Arms swinging, hips gyrating, each move done with intent. Just to limber up and surf 2 foot Snapper?
The wind was also up early and snaring a wave was hard. I drifted down the bank and got a few. Watched a guy on a short, black-railed board get barrelled just outside of Greenmount and hoot himself when he came out. Flicked off near me and I said something about the wave of the day. "Birthday barrell!" he said back so I wished him all the best. We both smiled and that's enough to hold the dark thoughts at bay a while.
some familiar faces towards the end, zayv raisin' the arm, even ol' one eye, 'n BoB Mc. but mainly rasta man, surfin' with over 30 years of moves.
enjoy,
hey, wasn't it a sweet weekend. :0