Words of wisdom
From Stunet :
I’m not sure about you, but I’ve never had much time for astrology.
That’s ‘astrology’, as in star signs and horoscopes and the categorisation of people depending on their birthdate, not to be confused with the telescopes and planets of 'astronomy'.
The greatest argument against astrology is that Kelly Slater and I were born on the same day.
Even old Athena Starwoman can’t create any difference between us such as Mercury rising or whatnot: We were born on the same day, same month, same year - 11/02/72. Yet despite being good Aquarians no-one could be fooled into thinking Kelly and I are star-crossed brothers.
Me: A dreamer; conceptual thinker; bit of a blame-shifter; corner-cutter too; prone to making the same mistakes over and over; and middling surf talent at best.
He: A doer; analytical; brutally honest with himself; perfectionist; continual self-improver; goes alright on a board.
Despite the shared birth date, I gave up on comparisons around the time Kelly was winning his third world title. At that stage it was clear I wasn’t going to win any.
You could probably add ‘slow learner’ to my list.
But what I could learn from him, and it’s only become apparent in recent years, is a lesson that may be heeded by any surfer born on any day of the year.
Keep on surfing.
The lesson, however, runs a bit deeper than that. The point is to stay engaged with surfing; follow the weather; chase swells; experiment with boards - keep the ideas fresh; improve your performance where possible; and try not to turn into an old walrus thinking the best days are behind you. Surfing doesn’t have to engross you as it did in your teens but always keep it somewhere close to your heart.
A few years back I interviewed Terry Richardson and he said: “I hate [telling people my age] because what I feel inside looks nothing like what I see in the mirror.”
Surfing will do that to you.
Admittedly, Slater has a bit of an advantage, he’s wildly talented, and unencumbered by job or family, yet the other lesson is to temper your expectations. You don’t have to be a champion, not a world champion or even a club champion, but surfing well keeps you in shape, keeps you connected to nature, connected to other surfers too - it makes you feel good inside.
So often seen as a frivolous little activity, it’s only in recent years that I’ve realised the deeper purpose of surfing.
As demonstrated by the eleven-time king, as demonstrated by every old bastard who’s stuck with it.
- Stu
No matter how small or insignificant you feel it may be- try and achieve something every day.
Oh, and make your own bed.
Definitely make your own bed.
I went to make my neighbour's bed the other day and he called me a fucking weirdo.
Haha Andy.
AndyM wrote:Definitely make your own bed.
I went to make my neighbour's bed the other day and he called me a fucking weirdo.
haha.. Next time try a fake mustache. Works every time .
I cut my Neighbours lunch........... and he called me a C##t .
This is the thread to place those bits of unsolicited advice, handy hints or concise thinking you’ve either stumbled across yourself or leant fro others. Anything you think might benefit your fellow surfers through life, love and art.