How big makes you happy?

floyd's picture
floyd started the topic in Wednesday, 3 Jun 2015 at 10:57am

A scroll down the front page of Swellnet this morning shows waves of varying sizes that could usefully be described as stories - single story; double story; and possibly there are some triple story sized waves there also. Well, we Australians presumably can't get enough real estate and house renovation TV shows so maybe there is some link here.

For me waves of this size are of some diminishing amusement (freak) value. Just like the commercially available surf DVDs and short film clips here and elsewhere of pros hitting mechanically perfect waves in all the same way on all the same equipment. Its not what Neil Young means when he yells "Its all one song".

While I appreciate the skill and bravery required to surf monster waves it bears little resemblance to my experience or desire. I'm happy in surf of any size up to the 6-8 foot range (and at that upper range I pick the wave, tide etc carefully) and I suspect the vast majority of surfers have similar aspirations or needs.

Pretty much all surf media outlets offer up this "super-sized" menu but just like the saturated fat served up by McDonalds, is it good for you on a daily basis or as a once a year treat? So how big makes you happy?

floyd's picture
floyd's picture
floyd Wednesday, 3 Jun 2015 at 10:59am

Be happy

zenagain's picture
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zenagain Wednesday, 3 Jun 2015 at 12:01pm

Depending on the type of wave, head and half to double is my fun-zone. Over that, I tend to subscribe to your theory Floyd.

If it's macking, I've been known to have a few sly dry retches on the sand before throwing myself into the maelstrom:)

seal's picture
seal's picture
seal Wednesday, 3 Jun 2015 at 1:31pm

I know that as my hairline has receded so has my comfort/fun wave size along with my ability!!
I used to enjoy 8ft - 12ft, now I have plenty of chores, niggling injuries or special events to attend if it gets much over 6ft !!!
Maybe if I could just learn to suck eggs I could charge the big stuff !!!!!!

50young's picture
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50young Wednesday, 3 Jun 2015 at 1:47pm

Anything from 1-6 ft makes me happy, enjoy the stoke, i really enjoy 3-4 ft as fun waves, I know my limitations especially as I've got older and hopefully wiser

eat-your-vegies's picture
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eat-your-vegies Wednesday, 3 Jun 2015 at 2:03pm

I very rarely make it home much these days so 2' if that's the first waves I see.
but really just my local point to my self or a small fun crowd,

but those times when you load the 6'10 and the 6'6 on the bike and paddle out on the buhkit chasing 6' to 10'

but dropping down 20' faces on big boards (7'ers) once or twice a year.

but every thing in between makes me happy too.

locii's picture
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locii Wednesday, 3 Jun 2015 at 1:55pm

I always assumed this related to how surf fit you are.

The fitter you are the more risks you can take and the easier it is to suffer the repercussions. I don't really surf as much as I like (probably by a factor of ten) so I start to become risk adverse at around 4 feet.

Although if I've been down the coast for a week then I tend to be more comfortable if it gets bigger. But I'm much happier int he 3 to 4 foot range.

zenagain's picture
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zenagain Wednesday, 3 Jun 2015 at 2:34pm

Definitely on the fitness thing. When I was younger and could get around the lineup easier I'd tend to go anything. These days, much more selective.

That saying, when the moon and the elements line up, I like to scare myself from time to time just to know I'm alive.

thomas11's picture
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thomas11 Wednesday, 3 Jun 2015 at 4:22pm

4-6 is my happy place.
Once it gets over 6-8 the adrenaline gets pumping big time and i tend to hang pretty wide.
Anything over 8ft and I tend to go searching for that more protected area that might be a few ft smaller

Sickaz's picture
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Sickaz Wednesday, 3 Jun 2015 at 4:41pm
eat-your-vegies wrote:

I very rarely make it home much these days so 2' if that's the first waves I see.
but really just my local point to my self or a small fun crowd,

but those times when you load the 6'10 and the 6'6 on the bike and paddle out on the buhkit chasing 6' to 10'

but dropping down 20' faces on big boards (7'ers) once or twice a year.

but every thing in between makes me happy too.

dude if you can catch 20" waves on a 7 foot something board well..... I don't know who you are but you must be a fearless freak, a champion surfer and are probably well known for your nutso efforts in xxl waves -considering you would be taking off under the lip. Hat's off to you if you cancatch 20" waves on a board in the 7's.

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Jerry's picture
Jerry Wednesday, 3 Jun 2015 at 7:47pm

I have been surfing for 18 months now and used to go out when it was 2ft max, but as I've gained paddle fitness and got more confident in the water 3-4ft is what i really enjoy. I still no my limits and will sit out anything bigger than that.

rooftop's picture
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rooftop Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 1:55am

The fear/comfort factor depends on more than just size. A 6-8ft sand-bottom crumbler can be a lot easier to face than a 4ft wave breaking next to a rock ledge, or over a shallow irregular reef.

That said, I first got comfortable surfing bigger waves on a rock point because the the predictability of the waves made it seem safer. I was only ever a few paddles from the channel, so I could sit out there and be safe if I needed to. Surfing waves the same size at a beachie that might shut down on you at any time and land a closeout set on your head with nowhere to hide seemed a lot scarier, even if the waves weren't as big.

goofyfoot's picture
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goofyfoot Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 5:57am
Sickaz wrote:
eat-your-vegies wrote:

I very rarely make it home much these days so 2' if that's the first waves I see.
but really just my local point to my self or a small fun crowd,

but those times when you load the 6'10 and the 6'6 on the bike and paddle out on the buhkit chasing 6' to 10'

but dropping down 20' faces on big boards (7'ers) once or twice a year.

but every thing in between makes me happy too.

dude if you can catch 20" waves on a 7 foot something board well..... I don't know who you are but you must be a fearless freak, a champion surfer and are probably well known for your nutso efforts in xxl waves -considering you would be taking off under the lip. Hat's off to you if you cancatch 20" waves on a board in the 7's.

If you read it it again you'll notice 20' faces. 10' waves?? Still that's a bloody good effort

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groundswell Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 7:13am

Depends on the spot, there's a peak near here that's so fun at 5ft but doesn't break at 4ft. It should be 6ft plus today, which might be scary as the good ones don't let you out of the barrel before the dry closeout. Last time I had coral stuck in my toe nails haha.

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stunet Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 10:31am

Surfed 6-8 foot waves at a local point late yesterday and would loved to have had a bit more size. Surfed 6-8 foot waves at a local reef this morning and was happy to hang wide and watch. Fuck it was heavy.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 11:17am

Similar to others above, depends on the break, reef or beach and how heavy it is.

Peaky beachies, 6ft is about tops unless it's a perfect bank with channels either side, as getting caught inside anything bigger is not cool.

Reefs, 6-8ft if not to heavy.

On the weekend I surfed a pumping and perfect 6ft+ right reef that was easily within my comfort zone, could of surfed it 8ft easily, 10ft probably not.

Something a little like this :o

Sickaz's picture
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Sickaz Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 12:22pm
goofyfoot wrote:
Sickaz wrote:
eat-your-vegies wrote:

I very rarely make it home much these days so 2' if that's the first waves I see.
but really just my local point to my self or a small fun crowd,

but those times when you load the 6'10 and the 6'6 on the bike and paddle out on the buhkit chasing 6' to 10'

but dropping down 20' faces on big boards (7'ers) once or twice a year.

but every thing in between makes me happy too.

dude if you can catch 20" waves on a 7 foot something board well..... I don't know who you are but you must be a fearless freak, a champion surfer and are probably well known for your nutso efforts in xxl waves -considering you would be taking off under the lip. Hat's off to you if you cancatch 20" waves on a board in the 7's.

If you read it it again you'll notice 20' faces. 10' waves?? Still that's a bloody good effort

Yes a good effort indeed and to clarify I dont know EYvegies he might well be skilled enough to do this sort of thing. Some people are.

I remember a perfect 10 by KS at the margies comp on a ten foot waves and he was riding a 6"2 or something.

Also Tom Curren years ago at solid Ppass??? or Lances maybe ruling it on a 5"something board.

A little different but while I think of it, and its a little off topic because he is towing, but if you want to see rail control of the highest level watch this.......


or this

this one is scary

Wow first go at attaching a link and it seems to have worked. There is heaps of footage of this guy he's crazy the first video is the first one i saw of BD - i had to watch a few times to get my head around it, there is one wave at about 3.30 that is unreal.

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carpetman Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 12:41pm
Sickaz wrote:

Also Tom Curren years ago at solid Ppass??? or Lances maybe ruling it on a 5"something board.

I think it was out at the Hinakos

udo's picture
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udo Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 1:08pm

5'7" fireball at Bawa

zenagain's picture
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zenagain Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 1:11pm
Craig wrote:

On the weekend I surfed a pumping and perfect 6ft+ right reef that was easily within my comfort zone, could of surfed it 8ft easily, 10ft probably not.

Something a little like this :o

I only have one word for that Craig-

Flawless! Just beautiful.

(3 words actually)

jezza64's picture
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jezza64 Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 3:19pm

I pulled into the Bells car park on Saturday morning, it was looking flawless. Noticed only a dozen or so in the line up. Strange I thought, how good is this.

Then the little voice in my head said "Remember what happened last time?" Previously I have had a quick look, thrown the wettie on and paddled out, only then for a set to come through.....

So a longer observation was required. So glad I did (at the time) as a set came through that was well out of my comfort zone. Slunk back west to a more comfortable but still solid (and crowded) point break.

Have been kicking myself ever since, should have had a dig. But if you are not confident it will always end in tears.

lostdoggy's picture
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lostdoggy Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 3:57pm

Jezza, Bells is usually pretty good to have a dig at (especially if you overgun yourself). If you cop a clean up set you usually only get the one wave, but Winki you get dragged down the line of breaking waves.
6-8 is my happy range. Will go 10 at the less heavy spots.

jezza64's picture
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jezza64 Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 4:29pm

Yeh, lostdoggy, been kicking myself all week. I have had a couple of uncomfortable experiences out there and definitely copped more than one wave :( Have promised myself that I will have a crack next time.....

Seeing a few guys much younger than me (I'm 50) get flogged in the shore break and not even get off the beach may have spooked me ha ha :)

Got the equipment to do it, 6'10" MC Protow or 7'6" rounded pin which handled 4 ft Bells like a dream. Just need the ticker.

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locii Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 4:32pm

@Jezza dare I ask where you ended up? I was at Point Impossible which was fairly wind affected. Kicked myself I didn't have a better look down the coast.

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lostdoggy Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 4:43pm
jezza64 wrote:

Seeing a few guys much younger than me (I'm 50) get flogged in the shore break and not even get off the beach may have spooked me ha ha :)

.

What were they doing paddling from the beach/shorey while it was big?
Unless they were going to paddle round to Winki. Would've got swept down that way pretty quick.

Craig's picture
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Craig Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 4:47pm

When ever Bells is big I paddle out in the corner there. You get washed towards Winki but time it well and you're out after duck diving a few waves.

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lostdoggy Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 4:49pm

Yep, me too, Craig.

jezza64's picture
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jezza64 Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 4:50pm

Hi locii, next point west mate. Was very windy and quite hard to get over the edge with the spray etc

locii's picture
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locii Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 4:51pm

Got it :)

jezza64's picture
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jezza64 Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 4:56pm

Funny thing was that they were down the Winki end of the beach and still got flogged...... think they must have been newbies or tourists trying to ticking off the bucket list. I have paddled out from there before at 4 feet and not even got wet hair.

Saw a Euro tourist paddle out the Saturday before on a foamy learners board (probably a hire board from the looks of it), normal elbows back, nose up paddle. Somehow got to Rincon, copped a four foot set on the head, snapped his leggie and had to swim all the way. Could see it coming a mile away, he could swim ok though, which was good, didn't feel like doing an impromptu rescue. :)

jezza64's picture
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jezza64 Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 4:58pm

Just reread those comments, maybe that is where I am going wrong. Thinking back the guys who were going well went out straight off the stairs.

Gary G's picture
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Gary G Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 6:25pm

I heard that the size wasn't so important, that it was more about the motion of the ocean

indo-dreaming's picture
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indo-dreaming Thursday, 4 Jun 2015 at 6:35pm

Depends on the wave and shape or if its left or rights but my perfect size is anything from shoulder high to double overhead, even watching surfing vids etc i prefer to watch surfing at this size i guess its a high performance size.

rooftop's picture
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rooftop Friday, 5 Jun 2015 at 12:19am

@Sickaz, re: Domke vids.

I was watching the first one thinking, "ok, the guy's got skills, but why go finless if you have to wave your arms around like a turkey just to stay on the wave?"

And then I saw the move at 3:30. Mid-face pop shove-it to a solid 6ft barrel. Goddamn.

eat-your-vegies's picture
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eat-your-vegies Friday, 5 Jun 2015 at 9:24am

eat-your-vegies wrote:I very rarely make it home much these days so 2' if that's the first waves I see.
but really just my local point to my self or a small fun crowd,
but those times when you load the 6'10 and the 6'6 on the bike and paddle out on the buhkit chasing 6' to 10'

but dropping down 20' faces on big boards (7'ers) once or twice a year.

""but every thing in between makes me happy too.

dude if you can catch 20" waves on a 7 foot something board well..... I don't know who you are but you must be a fearless freak, a champion surfer and are probably well known for your nutso efforts in xxl waves -considering you would be taking off under the lip. Hat's off to you if you cancatch 20" waves on a board in the 7's. ""

hey sickaz
im 4'3" so a 7.0 is a big board

nah just kidding.
that didn't come out the way I meant. im certainly not that kind of a hellman lol.

im just using two different ways to measure a wave ie what most surfers call ten foot (which is pretty solid) if you dropped a tape measure from peak to trough would easily be 20', in the same way that if you actually measured a 4' wave with a tape from trough to peak on the face youd get 6' (or more if your from WA.). surfers allways call waves way larger than the actual measure.
I don't prescribe to measuring the backs waves cos some waves just don't have backs. I can imagine laird Hamilton being stoked that his millennium wave was the best three footer he'd ever got lol

didn't mean to imply that im comftable in 20 foot waves. what I meant was every now and then when I work up the balls , ill surf to about ten ft (they have about 20' of face)

by the way mate in your post you said

" dude if you can catch 20" waves on a 7 foot something board well..... I don't know who you are but you must be a fearless freak, a champion surfer and are probably well known for your nutso efforts in xxl waves -considering you would be taking off under the lip. Hat's off to you if you cancatch 20" waves on a board in the 7's "

well I have no problem and im quite comftable surfing 20" waves on a 7.0 although I have a 5.10 that would be better lol.
I think you meant 20' waves :)

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Sickaz Friday, 5 Jun 2015 at 5:31pm

Yes EYVegies my bad, grammar is not my strong point, not sure what is but grammar definately will not get me on the podium.

On the topic of calling face sizes though - it it such a vague and subjective measurement. Eg a 10foot wave at chopes has a face of ten feet because its vert, to say that a 10 ft wave has a 20ft face makes it one VERY fat, slopey wave. Rather than crunch the numbers which i am also highly adept at, i got two sticks and figured thatto get a slope (granted a flat slope) that is twice as long ae its height the slope goes easily below 45degrees.

I do understand surf measurements really dont align well with reality, eg my mates would call a six foot day when it is double head, which obviously isnt 6 foot.

It's all too confusing but good on you eat ya vegies well handled who cares how big it is if you can get clean tubes its big enough.

Go get some 20 footers ya charger. ;)

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Mr Vic Friday, 5 Jun 2015 at 11:28pm

Don't forget an element of macho often comes into calling the size for some. Remember surfing with a mate one time at a solid overhead beach break where he snapped his board. He then proceeded to call his friend and tell him he just surfed waves that were 2-3ft!

After living overseas for a while, I now call surf with the head high/chest high etc method. different people in different countries do it differently so this seems to work.

my ideal size could probably fall in the 3-5ft range(head high to head high and a half). willing to get out there at 6ft or a touch bigger, but will choose my spot carefully at that size.

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zenagain Friday, 5 Jun 2015 at 11:46pm

Where overseas did you live Mr. Vic? I live in Japan and we call the surf in relation to the body. Hiza- knee high, Koshi- waist, Mune- chest, Kata- shoulder, Atama- head, Oba- overhead, Daberu- double overhead etc etc.

I like that way, takes a lot of ambiguity out of it.

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lostdoggy Saturday, 6 Jun 2015 at 12:46am
zenagain wrote:

Where overseas did you live Mr. Vic? I live in Japan and we call the surf in relation to the body. Hiza- knee high, Koshi- waist, Mune- chest, Kata- shoulder, Atama- head, Oba- overhead, Daberu- double overhead etc etc.

I like that way, takes a lot of ambiguity out of it.

Still pretty ambiguous Zen; Japanese double overhead is only head high and a qtr in Aus ;).

Sickaz's picture
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Sickaz Saturday, 6 Jun 2015 at 12:11pm
rooftop wrote:

@Sickaz, re: Domke vids.

I was watching the first one thinking, "ok, the guy's got skills, but why go finless if you have to wave your arms around like a turkey just to stay on the wave?"

And then I saw the move at 3:30. Mid-face pop shove-it to a solid 6ft barrel. Goddamn.

yes agreed about the wiggle factor, not the most gracefull wave riding but new frontier stuff with the skate tricks not just above the lip but popping mid face.

Also the pressure jet of water that squirts from under his board when he bottom turns is pretty nuts.

uplift's picture
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uplift Saturday, 6 Jun 2015 at 1:16pm
wellymon's picture
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wellymon Saturday, 6 Jun 2015 at 5:21pm
uplift wrote:

https://www.t-nation.com/blogs/stop-worrying-about-being-too-big

Am I in the right thread?

You funny fuck, I new that was coming Mr UpBig;)

zenagain's picture
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zenagain Saturday, 6 Jun 2015 at 9:19pm

I'm surprised it took him so long Welly.

uplift's picture
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uplift Saturday, 6 Jun 2015 at 9:31pm

Its all about the timing, and savouring the moment guys.

Sickaz's picture
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Sickaz Saturday, 6 Jun 2015 at 10:11pm
uplift wrote:

https://www.t-nation.com/blogs/stop-worrying-about-being-too-big

Am I in the right thread?

I don't really get this.....

Are you trying to take the piss out of me uplift?

uplift's picture
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uplift Saturday, 6 Jun 2015 at 10:27pm

Don't you like the article?

Sickaz's picture
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Sickaz Sunday, 7 Jun 2015 at 9:54am

surpise surprise uplift dodges the question and instead leaves more criptic dribble.

I'll answer your questions uplift if you answer mine.

Anyhow your reply did clarify a few things for me.....

1 - You are a pussy

2 - You are a bully

3 - You are a homophobe

I dont understand why you would go out of your way to bully someone on a chatroom and taunt them with your homophobic BS and that dumb riddle crap that you write. Why dont you man up and answer my first question clearly? Try answering with a yes or a no first then if you need to carry on do it after.

I thought for a second that I should let you go and forget about it. But if I can facilitate you making even more of a fool of yourself then some others might get a laugh out of it..

So anyway here goes again...

Are you trying to take the piss out of me uplift?

oh and check this link out https://swelltimes.com/uplift/youdumbfuck/getalife/yousadcase/lovefromsi...

Blowin's picture
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Blowin Sunday, 7 Jun 2015 at 10:40am

Sickaz

Re Uplift - don't spare it another thought mate, it's not about you at all. He'll turn every conversation to himself or a subject that he is interested in , such as himself.

It's not new or entertaining.

You're on the right path ignoring him.

He is the internet version of Beetlejuice.....don't say his name or respond and he'll lose interest and go away.

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fitzroy-21 Sunday, 7 Jun 2015 at 10:40am
Blowin wrote:

Sickaz

It's not new or entertaining.

You're on the right path ignoring him.

Agreed Blowin, but how good was it when harmony was restored with his 3 month "suspension"

As southey pointed out, it obviously didn't work!

Sickaz's picture
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Sickaz Sunday, 7 Jun 2015 at 10:45am

Ok thanks I will let it go then. All good

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uplift Sunday, 7 Jun 2015 at 12:40pm

So sickaz, I never mentioned you at all. If you can show me where I did, and where I said the things that you are upsetting yourself about, show me. I like the article I put up, because I think its a misunderstood topic, that affects surfing. Especially in bigger waves. Simple. And its not so serious the thread, is it?

I am not trying to take the piss out of you, you have upset yourself. Or show me where I have done or said all those things to you, where I have ever mentioned you. Until you posted this, I literally had no idea you exsisted, I have never read any of your comments, if I have I honestly haven't paid any attention to them to have you in my mind.

I have never hidden who I am, or where I am. If you have other reasons for being on here, and it means so much to you, I'm easy to catch up with.