Great weekend beachbreaks just about everywhere; strong SE swells next week

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 3rd March)

Best Days: Sat/Sun: fun beachies right across the region with generally variable winds. Tues/Wed/Thurs: solid SE swells in Northern NSW (smaller in SE Qld) but ideal for the points under a mainly southerly breeze. 

Recap: Super fun, peaky 3ft+ surf on Thursday with light variable winds in most areas all day eased to 2-3ft today with early light winds now freshening from the SE.

This weekend (Mar 4th - 5th)

Although the current small trade swell is expected to ease into Saturday, we are expecting a minor reinforcing pulse from a small region of strengthening E’ly winds just south of New Caledonia late yesterday and today.

This fetch is only thin and will mainly favour SE Qld and Far Northern NSW, with slightly smaller surf south of about Ballina or Yamba originating from a weaker E’ly ridge to the south. 

Surf size should rebuild up into the 3ft+ range at open beaches during Saturday morning, with smaller surf running across the points, and it’ll be a touch smaller across the Mid North Coast with 2-3ft sets. Set waves won't be very consistent but they should be of a decent quality. Expect a very slow easing trend through Sunday, possibly kicking off at a similar size as per Saturday.

Also in the water on Sunday will be a small long period S’ly swell, across Northern NSW’s south swell magnets. Set waves will be very inconsistent but we may see occasional 3ft sets at times south of Byron, originating from a polar low that tracked south of Tasmania yesterday.

The good news is that a weak pressure gradient across the coast will result in light variable winds and sea breezes both days, though the Mid North Coast may see a freshening southerly on Sunday afternoon as a Tasman Low pushes across the region from the south. 

Anyway, it’s shaping up to be a great weekend for the open beach breaks, so find an empty stretch and get stuck into some A-frame goodness!

Next week (Mar 6th onwards)

Geez, the models have been moving around a lot over the last few days. Even as recent as this morning’s 12Z run, they were still generally anticipating a slow moving Tasman Low and an extended period of large surf across the East Coast next week. 

This evaporated significantly in the 18Z run that was made available late this morning (which I don’t normally take to much notice in) but also the latest 00Z run this afternoon - which is much more concerning. 

However, the good news is that whilst the models have downgraded (from what was shaping up to be a very large, broad swell event), the fetch’s alignment is now aimed more into Northern NSW and we’re looking at a decent run of good surf across the regional points. Even SE Qld should pick up some really good surf from this system, although a lot smaller in size. 

The developing low off Southern NSW on Sunday will drive gusty S/SW winds across Northern NSW into Monday morning, and we’ll see building short range southerly swells as a result - initially only low quality, and without much size in SE Qld owing to the direction and short period (though there’ll be some small leftover E’ly swell in the mix).

By Tuesday, the low is expected to be positioned in the north-eastern Tasman Sea, plus a small secondary fetch off NZ’s South Island, originating from the merger between the primary low and a small cut-off low from the Southern Ocean. This will extend a long, broad SE fetch right through the Tasman Sea and should generate building SE swells throughout Tuesday that’ll peak through Wednesday before easing slowly on Thursday.

At this stage we’re still looking at plenty of energy, though Northern NSW’s south facing beaches (south of Byron) will pick up the most size, probably around the 6ft+ mark, possibly a little more of core winds end up being stronger than modelled (right now max about 35kts). Most open Northern NSW beaches will see smaller surf anywhere between 4ft and 6ft, however the semi-exposed points should pick up strong sets of a similar size range at the height of the event, and with winds out of the southern quadrant they’ll be the pick of the region.

Across SE Qld, any swell event with a reasonable southerly component is of concern, as this direction tends to shave off a lot of size. However we have a few positives working in our favour this time; the slow moving nature of this system and the impressive fetch length. As such we should see peak sets reaching 4ft across some of the outer points (through Tues/Wed and maybe Thurs), and 2-3ft surf elsewhere (down the points, and across most open beaches). Protected points such as Noosa will however be much smaller owing to the swell direction. The region’s handful of exposed south swell magnets will be wind affected through this period under a moderate to fresh S/SE breeze, but could see larger 3-5ft sets. 

A smaller but still somewhat reinforcing pulse from the SE (originating from that secondary low off the SW tip of NZ late Mon/early Tues) will maintain smaller but still strong swells through late Thursday and Friday but the longer term outlook suggests a couple of days of smaller waves settling in from next weekend onwards as the swell window becomes temporarily dormant. 

Anyway, all in all it’s a very dynamic forecast chart with lots of potential on the cards. By Monday we should have a very clear understanding as to how the middle of the week is going to pan out, so tune back in over the weekend for updates in the comments below.

Comments

gtkimber's picture
gtkimber's picture
gtkimber Friday, 3 Mar 2017 at 6:21pm

Super fun waves the last couple of days here on the sunny coast. Had some barrels for breakfast yesterday morning. Dropped off a touch this morning. My question to you BEN Are we expecting a rebuilding swell for the SC tomorrow morning or should I prepare cereal for breakfast instead of punchy beach barrels?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 3 Mar 2017 at 6:25pm

Yep should kick a little more tomorrow morning.

gtkimber's picture
gtkimber's picture
gtkimber Friday, 3 Mar 2017 at 6:37pm

Yew.......

Umunga's picture
Umunga's picture
Umunga Friday, 3 Mar 2017 at 7:24pm

Great conditions this morning good to get on the open beach away from the crowds

Umunga's picture
Umunga's picture
Umunga Saturday, 4 Mar 2017 at 6:23am

It's still dark at the mo but doesn't look as if it's boosted in size to me looks like it's dropped a touch

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 4 Mar 2017 at 6:36am

Swell periods have increased a touch, and the models are now on board with the building trend (they weren't as much yesterday) saying it'll peak in the afternoon. So plenty of time to go yet.

Looks very tasty in the Coffs region right now too.


thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 4 Mar 2017 at 7:07am

Burleigh and Currumbin looking tasty this morning.


spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Saturday, 4 Mar 2017 at 9:45am

Bloody hell, what have we done to deserve this crap. Sunny Coast delivers yet another morning of superb dross.....

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Saturday, 4 Mar 2017 at 9:56am

Just got in, definitely no bump in swell, junkish 2ft that never really cleaned up. Last 2 days were fun though.

Umunga's picture
Umunga's picture
Umunga Saturday, 4 Mar 2017 at 11:25am

Well what a disappointment
Lumpy bumpy junky wobbly weak rubbish didn't get any better with incoming tide
If yesterday would have been a 10 today was a 3
Why can't we have just two days back to back

waxyfeet's picture
waxyfeet's picture
waxyfeet Saturday, 4 Mar 2017 at 11:17pm

Thursday rocked!

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Saturday, 4 Mar 2017 at 3:09pm

I scored some super fun waves this morning. Just me and my mate. It was shit when we paddled out just after low but we knew it would get better as the tide came over the bank. We had some super fun righthanders running all the way to the inside. Just me and my mate the whole time. Meanwhile literally 100m to the south there was a crew of 30+ surfing closeouts!!!

Gotta love it when you can't see the bank from the access track!!! :)

the-u-turn's picture
the-u-turn's picture
the-u-turn Saturday, 4 Mar 2017 at 3:35pm

Always enjoy the prose Thermalben. I can assure you Northern Beaches (NSW) this morning was absolute misery. As Baldrick would have lamented, 'more fun to be had on the docks doing favours for sailors'. On that note, Happy MG.

Is there any chance for swell for the finals next weekend for the Noosa Festival of Surfing?

roubydouby's picture
roubydouby's picture
roubydouby Saturday, 4 Mar 2017 at 4:30pm

Not sure where others were in mid north nsw, but was absolutely pumping around my area. Super glassy all morning and around 9.30 the swell pulsed from 2-3 to 3-4 and stayed that way.

Currently dozing in bed after a post surf snooze and refeed.

alsurf's picture
alsurf's picture
alsurf Saturday, 4 Mar 2017 at 4:40pm

Swell was definitely a foot to two foot bigger this afternoon compared to this morning
And bugger all wind and more power to boot

alsurf's picture
alsurf's picture
alsurf Saturday, 4 Mar 2017 at 5:03pm

Swell was definitely a foot to two foot bigger this afternoon compared to this morning
And bugger all wind and more power to boot

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Saturday, 4 Mar 2017 at 5:13pm

Looking at the charts for next week and its looking like a week of bank busting grief,just when the sand is coming back here.......hope im wrong.

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Saturday, 4 Mar 2017 at 8:12pm

It did pulse on the sunny coast later today, up to 4ft on the sets with light onshore, nice well defined swell .and well forecasted thanks swellnet

surfiebum's picture
surfiebum's picture
surfiebum Sunday, 5 Mar 2017 at 10:50am

Super fun sunny coast this morning, glad the swell hung around

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Sunday, 5 Mar 2017 at 10:31am

Wow major swell upgrade for this week in the 12z GFS run

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 5 Mar 2017 at 11:22am

Indeed! Major upgrade.. could be some pretty serious size across Northern NSW mid-late week. 

mcsc's picture
mcsc's picture
mcsc Sunday, 5 Mar 2017 at 10:56am

Great waves on the open beachies this morning. And plenty of options with the banks spreading the crowds out

Curious how longer period swells usually means closeouts on the open beachies, but not this morning. Aframes everywhere

Cheers for the forecast Ben

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 5 Mar 2017 at 11:21am

Thanks mate.

Kinda funny how Qld surfers refer to a "longer period swell" being ten seconds instead of seven.

No-one in the southern states would get out of bed for anything under fourteen.

mcsc's picture
mcsc's picture
mcsc Sunday, 5 Mar 2017 at 11:52am

Coz it's the Sunny Coast!

Bloody pampered southerners

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Sunday, 5 Mar 2017 at 12:22pm

Latest charts are off the Richter....aweek to early for the Snapper comp

gtkimber's picture
gtkimber's picture
gtkimber Sunday, 5 Mar 2017 at 1:42pm

I'm glad I had my cereal before I went out for the early yesterday (Saturday). Definitely no barrels for breakfast. This morning however was nice and surprising. Definitely got my 2 ride out barrels for breakfast. Yew........

Umunga's picture
Umunga's picture
Umunga Sunday, 5 Mar 2017 at 3:30pm

Yep one of those rare mornings on the SC
All good like what was forecast
Well done

curly2alex's picture
curly2alex's picture
curly2alex Monday, 6 Mar 2017 at 11:02am

Someone give Pridmore a sedative. 2 foot at mdore and he rated it a 6/10 today !
eeeeeeeeewwwwwww

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 6 Mar 2017 at 2:27pm

Fck me, latest forecasts are off the charts for this Tasman Low. Bye bye banks and welcome stormbar winter!!!! :(

WSL must be super pissed they're going to miss one the years biggest swells and perfect winds for Snapper. They could run the comp and finish it in 4 consecutive days.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Monday, 6 Mar 2017 at 2:42pm

FFS, don........ You've got REAL swell on the way and you are having whinge about banks????

All points open to the se swell should pump..... Nuff said...

Couple of mysto spot could fire too..... Pm me if you need some local info..... Cheers, man.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 6 Mar 2017 at 2:55pm

agree SD