Not only do I disagree with the big fella, but I disagree with him on two fronts.
A week of choppy water, snap changes, and unsettling conditions comes to a rest.
Ambushed by size, the gang pushed their limits.
Surfers occasionally get a bad rap from mainstream society but the lineup is a model of co-operation. It’s an example of how people with conflicting values can get along.
If you’re a Frequent Flyer™ you may recall that two weeks back I constructed an argument about modern big wave riding that, with only a touch of bombast, I’ll call The Wisdom of the Elders.