Watch: The Session

Images and video by Andrew Shield and Dave Simons 

Kyron Rathbone:
I spent a month out in the Telos recently, working on an eagle carving for a surf resort. It’s a big bugger, almost a five metre wingspan, and it was sick to work on it while the real things circled overhead. I’d been there for a few weeks, getting waves, diving, fishing and foiling the island left. When Shieldsy came over with the crew, the surfing ramped up.  

This session was some of the most flawless waves I’ve ever laid eyes on…I remember paddling back out and seeing Sheldon get one of the deepest barrels of the day. He rode over the shockwave three times, stayed shacked behind the foamball the whole way. It was just wizardry. 

Everyone was getting barrelled, but Luca stole the show in the most unexpected way. She was threading her mid-length, pig-dogging with both hands and slipping through these silky little tubes. It was pure style – grace meeting guts.

The vibe in the water was electric, joyful, completely wide-eyed. Everyone was just trying to take it all in. I love Fiji, but scoring proper barrels there takes serious luck and hustle. Out here, though…you could’ve surfed blindfolded and still come out grinning.

Kyron rests on his haunches in between carving sessions

Sheldon keeps it deep and meaningful

Sheldon Simkus:
Getting to surf this spot – a wave I’ve wanted to get on for so many years – was the cherry on top of an epic trip. A great group of humans, taking turns getting long barrels over reef. I won’t forget that session any time soon. Eleven out of ten from me.

I’ve been right into shooting POV lately. It’s rewarding to get feedback from people trying to get more barrelled, and nice to hear from people who wish they could get themselves into those scenarios. It’s cool to share that feeling.

(see the closing wave in the video for Sheldon's POV work)

Luca Doble:
It's something I’ll never forget. Waves can't really get any better. Coco and I just looked at each other and were like, “How is this real?” 

My backhand tube riding evolved a bit through that session. I got rolled a few times, but that's part of it, you just have to laugh at yourself. It was fun to get outside of my comfort zone. 

The mid-length was sick. I’d gotten way too comfortable on my log so it was unreal to get the feel for something different on waves like that. It was sick to watch everyone get barrel after barrel. I saw one of Coco on the inside that was genuinely crazy. Lungi was getting so deep you couldn't even see him half the time. A surreal day.

Luca maxing out the mid-length

Lungi with relaxed body language inside a wicked section

Andrew Shield:
What was interesting about this session was that Dave [Simons, Tanah Mympi manager] literally called it five weeks out knowing the tide factors would be in place. He’s been living in the region for decades and along with him there’s just a handful of guys – like Wal and Matt from RLZ – who know the zone inside out. We got there super early and it was on straight away. I’ve been here dozens of times but these were the most perfect, longest barrels I’ve seen here.

Though it looks perfect and fun, the wave’s fast, shallow and intense. Three boats pulled up to check it and headed off again with no takers. 

This is definitely the premier wave in the region, but you’d be lucky to catch it two or three times a year. I’ve never shot it before, because there’s always been something wrong – the wind’s wrong, the tide’s too full or the swell direction’s a few degrees out.

It's funny. Dave grabbed my camera and shot from the boat while I flew the drone and then swam. I forgot to mention the camera shot 20 frames a second. By the time the fourth set had rolled through, Dave had already shot 2000 frames. 

Contemplating what's to come

Lungi always loose whatever the situation

Micah Margieson:
That session was up there for the best waves I’ve had in the last few years, for sure. Be stoked to get back there one day and score it again, but I know it’s pretty rare. 

Though it was barrels, for turns it was fun to play around with all the speed you get on the wave.

It’s funny, I couldn’t tell you how long we surfed for, but that’s not a bad thing right? Losing track of time’s always a good feeling.

Micah flying out of a 10 point barrel and into a 3 G turn

Coco Cairns:
It was one of those times when you turn up, see the first empty set, and everyone goes into mad panic mode: wax, sunscreen, anchor…we were all out the back within five minutes. 

They were the most perfect barrels I’ve ever seen with no one out. Lungi got the first wave and I thought it was the wave of the day, but they just kept coming! Because it was so long, you’d be paddling back out and keep turning for empty waves. Once you had your line, they were almost impossible not to make.

I remember seeing Luca paddling over one of the waves I was in, and us just laughing at each other. It was so sick to watch my best friends get perfect barrels.

Weight on the front foot, hands facing forward and eyes focussed, Coco is a study of concentration

"What just happened..?"