South swells favouring Northern NSW but not SE Qld

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

Southeast Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 8th August)

Best Days: Sat: building long period S'ly tending S/SE swell with good winds. Only small in SE Qld though. Sun: steadily easing S/SE swell with good winds (only small in SE Qld). Tues/Wed: another strong S'ly swell, OK winds at dawn (only small in SE Qld). 

Recap: A fun mix of E’ly, SE’ly and S’ly swells on Thursday with good small waves in SE Qld (along lovely sanded points), with the swell direction becoming more dominantly south into Friday, and easing a touch. 

This weekend (Aug 9-10)

Plenty of strong south swell for the weekend in Northern NSW. However, based on observations in southern NSW today, there may be a slightly longer delay on this swell filling into the North Coast throughout Saturday. It’s likely to reach the Mid North Coast during the morning, and will probably reach the Far North Coast after lunch ahead of a peak in size late in the day. Exposed south facing beaches in Northern NSW should peak at 5-6ft at the height of the swell late in the day, but it’ll be much smaller sat locations now open to the south. A steady easing trend is then expected through Sunday.

SE Qld won’t pick up much of this new swell due to its southerly direction, so expect persistent small waves all weekend away from the swell magnets (initially, a small mix of southeast and south swell from the last few days).  Also in the water on Saturday will be a small long range E’ly swell generated by the distant fetch way out neat Tahiti earlier this week. However no great size is expected from it.

Winds are looking good all weekend, generally light and variable Saturday with a westerly tendency on the Mid North Coast on Sunday

Next week (Aug 11-15)

Another strong front and low will round the Tasmanian corner over the weekend, driving a southerly change across the southern NSW coast overnight Sunday and into Monday. This will build a local southerly swell for Northern NSW during Monday but with accompanying gusty southerly winds and subsequently poor surfing conditions. No great size is expected from this source in SE Qld but a very small late arvo kick along the semi-exposed points is a possibility (they’ll fare best under the southerly wind regime too).

A stronger southerly groundswell component emanating from the parent low pressure system (much further south) is then due to build throughout Tuesday, peaking overnight before easing slowly Wednesday. South facing beaches in Northern NSW should see solid 5-6ft surf at the height of this next pulse, but a persistent S/SW airstream will maintain poor conditions at exposed breaks and it’ll be much smaller at those spots offering protection form the wind. Early SW winds are possible in a few locations so this will be worth maximising at the semi-exposed points along the Northern NSW region.

Again, the dominant southerly swell direction won’t allow for much size in SE Qld away from the swell magnets so expect very small waves about the southern Gold Coast points (say, 2ft tops) and semi-exposed Sunny Coast points. 

Another front due to push through the lower Tasman Sea on Wednesday will then renew southerly swell through Thursday, before easing on Friday

Longer term (Aug 16 onwards)

Nothing major on the long term charts right now, however a continual stream of vigorous fronts below the continent should maintain plenty of south swell through the following weekend and into the next week. One particular system I’ll be keeping an eye on it a strong polar low modelled to track below Tasmania (off the ice shelf) later Wednesday and Thursday that could be associated with an amplification of the LWT over New Zealand longitudes later next week, and could therefore be the source of some impressive long period S/SE groundswell into the longer term. But more on that next week.

Comments

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Saturday, 9 Aug 2014 at 5:07pm

"Nothing major on the long term charts right now"...... Inland trough forming into possible ecl, which i discussed in your last forecast..... First signs around 14th.... Should deepen 16th..... But like the very few ecl's we have had this year, it may slide off the southern NSW coast..... So perhaps I should've written this in the NSW report.... These systems are alot harder to pinpoint than cyclones, but something is on the brew.....
This upcoming system will leave "shadow" of instability over whole east coast (Townsville to tassie) as it moves away to NZ, which may prove to be a positive 24th onwards.....

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 9 Aug 2014 at 5:39pm

Possible ECL around the 16th? Can't see anything on any model right now. Yeah there's an inland trough but I can't see conditions being conducive towards an ECL at this stage.




Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Saturday, 9 Aug 2014 at 5:57pm

I should've been more clear re' "deepen" around the 16th... Not move offshore, but deepen..... My bad......On your maps, it looks like something is deepening..... Trough establishes itself 14th..... Deepens 16th..... Depending on conditions, should move offshore sometime between 17th - 19th.......

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 9 Aug 2014 at 6:25pm

Steering patterns don't look favourable at this stage though... and the inland trough is quite far west. 

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Saturday, 9 Aug 2014 at 7:02pm

Extended gfs forecast 19/8 22.00 here - http://www.bellmereweather.net/GFSLongRange.asp?units=C has low forming..

Here also has low forming - http://www.wunderground.com/wundermap/?zoom=4&rad=0&wxsn=0&svr=0&cams=0&...

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Sunday, 10 Aug 2014 at 7:09am

Finally some drought breaking rain for inland QLD!!!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 10 Aug 2014 at 7:13am

Doggy that inland trough has been active and hovering for a couple of weeks now. Unusual pattern for August, but talk of an ECL is more hopeful than anything.
Still, good to see it.
I think it's related to the IOD and moisture infeeds from the tropical Indian Ocean.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Sunday, 10 Aug 2014 at 10:26am

Free ride.... That inland trough is a semi permanent winter feature, thanks to the great divide disturbing surface pressure from ridges formed by high pressure systems... Easterly flow hits mountain range....... Trough forms on western side of range....
..... Trough usually establishes itself mid may..... Dissipates as each winter high moves out to sea.... re establishes as each new high moves across the continent.... If enough moisture is brought in by trades, the trough deepens..... A more easterly/ene flow will enhance, but ese can do it too... Will often cause a high to split, resembling a 2 humped camel lol ... If by chance an upper level feed from East Timor sea moves across continent at the same time, it's "bombs away"..... This doesn't look to be the case this time... So no "bombing low".... Just a std low to form somewhere off east coast.... Most charts point to sth NSW, which serves my neck of the woods well..........

mitchvg's picture
mitchvg's picture
mitchvg Sunday, 10 Aug 2014 at 2:08pm

pt lookout wave buoy kind of missing the sth swell...?

mitchvg's picture
mitchvg's picture
mitchvg Monday, 11 Aug 2014 at 10:34am
Craig wrote:

Pretty spot on there Mitch, but that only happens when everything comes into line at once. But we've got that setup forming into next week with the easterlies feeding into a weak upper cold pool and inland surface trough. If the cold pool were deeper it'd almost be a certainty!

.... From the forums.

Cheers yeah you were right :( but the weekend warriors would've been happy anyway, those willing to put in some ks anyway.

mitchvg's picture
mitchvg's picture
mitchvg Monday, 11 Aug 2014 at 10:40am

Is NAVGEM model based on GFS or vice versa?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 11 Aug 2014 at 11:19am

No it's the Navy's own model.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 11 Aug 2014 at 12:51pm

Certainly shaping up to deliver some very much needed rain to western Qld and even SE Qld may get some sprinkles!!! :)

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Monday, 11 Aug 2014 at 1:35pm

Need more water in our tanks, hopefully get 35 meters of my driveway concreted before some rain, when are they predicting rain here Don ;) Feed back please

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 11 Aug 2014 at 1:39pm

http://www.weatherzone.com.au/models/?lt=wzcountry&lc=aus&mt=gfs

http://www.weatherzone.com.au/models/?lt=wzcountry&lc=aus&mt=accessg

Light rain/showers Sat with the possibly heavier stuff into Sunday and Sunday night/Monday morning.

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Monday, 11 Aug 2014 at 2:32pm

Cheers Don, I'm liking WZ actually, great weather site.
Thanks;)

fitzroy-21's picture
fitzroy-21's picture
fitzroy-21 Monday, 11 Aug 2014 at 2:19pm

I hope this all comes to fruition rain wise. I'm with you Welly, need more water in the tanks.

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Monday, 11 Aug 2014 at 2:33pm

Hey there Fitzy, been having any waves..??

Hows work..?

fitzroy-21's picture
fitzroy-21's picture
fitzroy-21 Monday, 11 Aug 2014 at 2:45pm

Some small swell around the last few days but pretty quiet really. Haven't had a half decent surf for quite a while, but going for my yearly trip in about 4 weeks so I'm hoping my fitness is up to scratch. Indo looks to have had a stellar season this year so I hope it stays that way late throughout September.

Works been good mate. Sunny days, cool nights and the seas have been mostly fair to good. Fishing has been good and the boat is running like a dream (touch wood, or in my case, steel!!)

Just need some rain. The paddocks are getting really dry, dams are getting low and the water tanks even lower. Doesn't help when my family consists of 3 girls!! :)

Hope all is well with you and yours. Stay safe at work when you head back Welly.

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Monday, 11 Aug 2014 at 7:11pm

Yeah Fitzy, same have not had a surf for awhile, the week I left to work my mate said Stradie was unreal 5-6ft and round as...?
He has been surfing there for 20 years plus and reckons it was back to the old times that he remembers it, pulling out of the barrel on dry sand and walking up the beach....! haahhaaa heavy, probably from the same day as todays WOTD...?

Hope you get some rain up there as water is expensive for me to buy, $250 for $15,000 liters. Lucky I got another 33,000 l conc tank install 5 years ago, we have never been short since;) Touch water:)

That I can't say, I don't have 3 girls, The little wee loves like water eh....? Thats a good thing tho Fitzy, they will probably love surfing and just being in the ocean like there Dad. Cool shit.

Back out Exmouth ways for the next few months, will keep SN posted on swells/periods and whales, re on the way to INDO...?
I enjoy going up stairs at the end of the day and talking weather/tides/swell/ship stuff with the Captain on board, I think I'm the only one who is interested in that stuff...? Hhahaahahha, The old Captain loves Welly, we get on well as. Geez those old boys are real old sea dogs and always have a great story. Funny as , I can always open them up about various stories and journeys for sure ;)

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Monday, 11 Aug 2014 at 1:36pm

Nne swell for eastern tassie......

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Monday, 11 Aug 2014 at 1:50pm

Noted this system here' - http://www.swellnet.com/reports/forecaster-notes/south-east-queensland-n...

St George is pinpointed..... 14/8........ Rain event begins..... Impressive feed of warm moist ene from New Cal' region 16th...... Lots of cool surface air -inland NSW/Qld/Vic from current conditions.... Mix and stir lol..... Rain from Townsville to Snowy Mountains......