"It took a day or two for it to really hit me. I was in shock. I was shaking and at times trying to fight back some tears. It really felt like an emotional rollercoaster that I just wanted to be over."
Sooo...what's been going on in Queensland? Seems like there hasn't been a decent swell for, not weeks, not months, but whole seasons. Can it be that long?
"Honestly the few days leading up to the swell was the worst part," said Kurt Rist of the recent swell at Mullaghmore Head. "There was so much hype from the media we didn't really know what to expect on Monday."
This coming weekend we move one year closer to the 100 year celebration of Duke Kahanamoku’s display of surfing and the spirit of Aloha he brought with him at Freshwater Beach, Sydney, in the summer of 1914/1915.
Here it is, all the worthwhile footage released so far of the largest swell to hit Europe in recent times.
The winter storm dubbed by The Weather Channel 'Hercules' is currently impacting the European continent. After causing record low temperatues on America's East Coast it's fast becoming a storm of international significance. However, not everyone is happy about the naming convention. "The Weather Channel is doing a disservice to the field of meteorology," says one opponent.
It was a historic day for Merewether Surfboard Club, with their teams taking out first and second position, sending a harrowing warning to all contenders that they’ll be the club to beat when the Jim Beam Surftag Australian Championships are held later this year.
Tonga is expected to see large swell from the north and potentially a follow up swell from the south as the system drifts south in close proximity to the Polynesian island. The southern coasts of Fiji will also see medium to large levels of SE swell through this weekend.