The wave of the day does it for me big time. Nice work Steen Barnes , Shaun Anderson and Swellnet.
In one photo you've encompassed everything nice about surfing. If I was a wanker I'd say that it was perfect except for the fact he is in a wetsuit. Which it is , it's perfect .....except for the fact he's in a wetsuit.
This photo made me happy.
Keeping it loose.
If your back isn't touching the wave is it still a layback?
Or is it the reclining equivalent of the cheater five?
Serious questions to ponder...
Stu a cheater layback would be a clay back, but I'm calling it a lean back ..... as in lean back and enjoy the view!
The old Layback bazza.
Very cool indeed.
When was the last time a WSL surfer did one of those in a heat?
To even begin Stu's ponder I had to reach for the googtionary for a reminder of what a 'cheater five' actually is:
A form of hang five move, but where the surfer keeps themself and their weight well back from the front of the board and just reaches out with one leg to get five toes over the nose (as opposed to standing properly at the front).
Technically speaking I think "the reclining equivalent of the cheater five" is spot on.
Using the description above you could say: the surfer keeps themself and their weight near the back of the board and just reaches back with one hand to get five fingers as far back as possible (but making sure his back doesn't touch the wave)
In the spirit of simplicity I FWIW would like to suggest this move be called the
Reverse Cheater Five (Layback).
It's the Layback you have without laying back.
Reverse cheater five
In full effect
I dig laybacks. Best feeling ;-)
Great stuff Stu. This week?
Surfings coolest move
Nah, while ago now, Laurie.
Is that the 7’6” you’re styling on ?
Thats some Frankenstein shit in todays pic.
What's the move called when one lays on the surfboard on one's back with head towards the nose?
Trying to post a picture of said move but text box won't allow it, anyway, it's the opening move in this film clip -now this is a "layback":
Boogs VandePolder. Whenever I watch Litmus I think what the hell happened to him. Still alive and well, by the look of things.
Yeah, Boogs got a bit of play around that time, Jon Frank followed him and Rusty Moran to Hawaii, he scored a Surfer mag cover, featured in Waves mag often, few movie appearances, but the only thing that changed after the spotlight moved on was that less people saw what he was doing. He still chased waves and stormed every big swell in Cronulla, though he's now doing it with his son Kalani in tow.
And here's Kalani at G'Land.
Does Boogs have any sponsors ?
Boogs is sponsored by Mary, in the shadow of Captain Goodvibes
To be a mellow goofy with half a ball in your bag, wintering in the desert is to be a boar up to his hocks in fecal matter as adoring sows vie for your attention.
You make that sound very attractive, Blowin :-)
How about for an old, slow regularfoot?
Old surfers never die , they just get caught behind life’s section.
There's still a pulse, thankfully.
That’s all you need. The rest will look after itself.
Todays shot (July 15) great pic and beautiful pipe.
Imagine that view from the inside.
Timeless shot, perfect wave and rider positioning and it's a left.
Looks like it was from a couple of Tuesdays ago...perfect.
Pinched your clip, ApeAnon, nice.
Pretty tough pic magnify and stare for a moment...lots going on ...
Could say that twinnie was photoshopped in there..in place of a high performance board
On rail one keel in water one out..hand position..
7'2 - 4 channel Twin fin
Don't buy it, Udo, everything about that shot is right - the double squirt, his right hand feeling out the pitch and his bent-back horizontal back ..
Masterful shot .. and Torren knows where he's going next.
Unreal pic !
Got to love sliding into a bomb on a big board.
Not something that’s overly represented amongst surf photos either . Cheers.
Is the one today of the bommie or is that the beach break?
Deee-liteful photo today
Well picked up on there helmet.
Jessie Little's pic today does it for me.
Pic certainly not very recent.
Is it just me, or does Phil Goodrich look like Jack McCoy? Maybe it's the beard.
Dig the front foot too.
haha I'm thinking a cross between Jack McCoy and Catweazle.
Yoda! He's so good at hill bus station...well everywhere really
What a playground. Amazing perspective.
Nice shot Chris Peel.......
Agree with simba ..Chris's sunroom comes with travelator to front & back porches.
I heart today's WOTD. Gold
Sums up the vast majority of my surfing experience for the last year : uncrowded, small , playful and mesmerisingly beautiful.
Somedays it’s a blessing, somedays it’s a curse. Ingratitude is surprisingly malleable if you set your mind to it.
So beautiful! Had one such surf last Saturday in waters like this, them the days!
That’s the best moment in surfing.
Deeply pitted on a throaty left hander.
Ace you lucky , lucky bastard.
It was pumping
Did you get any good ones , SD ?
Yeah, I got lucky on a couple Blowin. I was out for the relatively empty but higher tide dawn patrol. 4 of us splitting peaks. For a fickle wave, she’s had a great year
Incredible WOTD today. 5 foot at the back, 20 foot at the front and perfect.