James KC

E swell to continue into the start of next week

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by James Casey (issued Friday 11th June)

Outlook (tl;dr)

  • Weekend of waves with a 2-3ft E swell continuing into the start of next week
  • Late Monday/early Tuesday will see a new S swell around the 2-3ft mark, not all that promising for SE QLD although there’ll be plenty of E swell 
  • The swell will shift more S/SE for Wednesday meaning more new swell will get in for SE QLD
  • Combo of E swell for region while there could be a local NE windswell for MNC Thursday morning

Recap

Winds have been out of the NW for the most of the past two days with lighter and more offshore winds early this morning. For SE QLD it’s been bumpy with the more protected northern corners the best bet. South of the border the open beaches have seen clean conditions with just southern ends and points getting bumpier conditions. 

Waves were 1-2ft yesterday morning before increasing to 2ft late yesterday and into today.  South of the border waves were 2ft yesterday before increasing to 2-3ft today.

The weekend 

A distant fetch of E winds north of NZ will bring a decent run of E swell sustained in that 2-3ft range throughout the weekend and into the start of next week. 

This E swell is thanks to a ridge of high pressure north of NZ being squeezed by a trough in the Tasman. The trough will continue moving east throughout the weekend squeezing the ridge and providing plenty of E swell into the new week.

Winds will be offshore tomorrow morning and for much of the day for most spots in the forecast region. The Sunshine Coast will be the exception with a light E/NE breeze. 

Sunday will see a similar story, offshore winds early, before a light and variable seabreeze builds in the afternoon. 

The new week

There should be some 3ft sets early next week but it will be a touch more inconsistent with the fetch a bit further away to the north of NZ. This swell will continue until at least Wednesday afternoon but will be a bit on the slow side.  

Winds on Monday will be offshore in the morning before northerly winds build into the afternoon making it a bit bumpy. South of the border winds will be lighter and more variable with the afternoon seabreeze.

A new S swell will arrive late on Monday/early Tuesday for the MNC and N NSW. We’ll see this swell reach 2-3ft south of the border thanks to S winds on the western flank of the low moving away from the coast. SE QLD won’t see much get around the corner until Wednesday. 

Winds on Tuesday will be offshore early before a light and variable seabreeze makes things a little bumpy in the afternoon.  

The swell will shift more out of the S/SE on Wednesday as the low moves further east. Winds will be offshore early but a stronger NE breeze will build into the afternoon as winds feed into an approaching low pressure system.

There looks to be a local NE windswell combining with the remnants of the E swell on Thursday. 

Conditions will depend on the timing but as the low moves offshore winds will turn W and bring cleaner conditions. 

There could also be an E swell filling in thanks to strong E winds out of the Cook Strait. These winds could be from the last of that low that brought us the cold weather yesterday. Models aren’t agreeing on it at the moment so let’s see what it’s looking like after the weekend on Monday.

Comments

Patate's picture
Patate's picture
Patate Friday, 11 Jun 2021 at 9:20pm

Thx James, like your forecasts, clear, detailed, awesome,

Rockethut's picture
Rockethut's picture
Rockethut Saturday, 12 Jun 2021 at 10:41am

0.5-1ft today??

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 12 Jun 2021 at 3:15pm

Perfect conditions, lovely straight groundswell lines.

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Saturday, 12 Jun 2021 at 5:41pm

Very deceptive the odd still shot. Old mate surfing the shorey close out tells the story, the outside banks are fat as f and the gutter is huge...see the remains of an outside "left" on the far left of frame. It's "if only" time - if only there were banks, if only there was another couple of feet etc. If anyone scored any quality today they did very well indeed.

dangerouskook2000's picture
dangerouskook2000's picture
dangerouskook2000 Saturday, 12 Jun 2021 at 6:57pm

I did see one or two like that. Bit wobbly and doubling up in front of the wave. Looked crap and very inconsistent. Could’ve surfed it if it wasn’t so fn cold. Went fishing instead with all the other tailor fishing tosspot wannabes going in the greenback comp. never seen so many people around here. It’s insane

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 13 Jun 2021 at 8:08am

forgot about that greenback comp.

I reckon I could have taken out the legendary "Hoss" McGrath with my bag.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 12 Jun 2021 at 3:16pm

Only small at Burls, but how's the lineup shot!

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Saturday, 12 Jun 2021 at 3:22pm

We've hit the, 'If only it had another couple feet on it' time of year.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 12 Jun 2021 at 3:43pm

Size ain't the issue around here, it's the state of the banks.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Saturday, 12 Jun 2021 at 4:22pm

That's even more painful to see!

nick.minor's picture
nick.minor's picture
nick.minor Saturday, 12 Jun 2021 at 5:28pm

Hey mate. Maybe you should enter your pic from the other day in the comp surfinfocus is doing. It's of beach scapes on the sunny coast.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Saturday, 12 Jun 2021 at 5:44pm

Yep, which is what I've been saying for the last few weeks now. Banks are fcked. They need a serious sorting out coming into winter.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 12 Jun 2021 at 5:44pm

long slow healing process Don.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Saturday, 12 Jun 2021 at 5:45pm

Spring will be here by then Steve!!!

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Saturday, 12 Jun 2021 at 4:56pm

yep banks are guttered here ....

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 12 Jun 2021 at 5:42pm

found a sly triangle of sand and surfed some tasty 2-3 footers solo.

then had some sizzling light tackle tailor fishing when they moved in.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Saturday, 12 Jun 2021 at 5:44pm

I hope you got out of the water before you light tackled the tailor!!!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 12 Jun 2021 at 6:34pm

it was a surf then a fish.
I got out because I was solo in a feeding frenzy.

tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir Sunday, 13 Jun 2021 at 1:04pm

Superb this am.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 13 Jun 2021 at 2:34pm

What a treat

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Sunday, 13 Jun 2021 at 2:49pm

There’s a few decent banks but not many.
If we had primo sand at the moment the last few weeks would have been amazing.

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Sunday, 13 Jun 2021 at 4:12pm

I stand corrected. Surfed what seems to be the only point with sand RN. Crowded, of course, but seriously primo waves, couldn’t be much better at this size, even on high tide. Stoked

mozza's picture
mozza's picture
mozza Sunday, 13 Jun 2021 at 5:25pm

Pumping this weekend, let the stoke continue.

richard187's picture
richard187's picture
richard187 Sunday, 13 Jun 2021 at 6:09pm

You certainly have to have a look around. But thanks for the 7.5 out of 10 report, that got me out of bed and surfed for around 8 hours today. Was certainly that, unlike the 3 out of 10 reports earlier on in the year when Noosa was as good as it gets

Troppo's picture
Troppo's picture
Troppo Sunday, 13 Jun 2021 at 7:25pm

Swell and conditions perfect today. Sand pretty straight mid sunshine coast though. Had a good look around and only found straight handers. No doubt a few crew got some nice waves.

conrico's picture
conrico's picture
conrico Sunday, 13 Jun 2021 at 7:56pm

apologies for the ignorance, but what are 'guttered' banks. Heard the term tossed around but always confused. Seems to be after big swell

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Sunday, 13 Jun 2021 at 8:03pm

Big swell causes storm sand bars and a gutter between them and the shore so they are further out to sea.

And they often break fast then fat into deep water.

conrico's picture
conrico's picture
conrico Sunday, 13 Jun 2021 at 8:12pm

Ah yep makes sense thanks

juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre Monday, 14 Jun 2021 at 9:25am

They're perfect for laying down my trademark turn, the bogged rail roundhouse cutback.

Kellya's picture
Kellya's picture
Kellya Monday, 14 Jun 2021 at 8:15am

Seems to be the opposite here in the west. We need storms and wind to move the sand around to get rid of the straightness of summer.

geoffrobertford's picture
geoffrobertford's picture
geoffrobertford Monday, 14 Jun 2021 at 8:49am

I remember that from my time living in Perth. Was always better after a winter storm. Very different here on the East.

Kellya's picture
Kellya's picture
Kellya Monday, 14 Jun 2021 at 6:43pm

Have loved the beaches over east on my few trips there. So different to here, so much more consistent quality wise.

dazzler's picture
dazzler's picture
dazzler Monday, 14 Jun 2021 at 9:25am

You g0 from having the Superbank to the Supergutter

Redmond Clement's picture
Redmond Clement's picture
Redmond Clement Monday, 14 Jun 2021 at 11:49am

Clean hollow fast. Got some beauties. Loving it.