Combination swells over the weekend favouring south of the border for size
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Fri July 11th)
Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)
- Small background E swells this weekend
- Stronger S pulse filling in Sat with offshore winds tending S-SE
- S pulse extends into Sun- even rebuilding to bigger than Sat- with sizey surf at S facing beaches in NENSW, and offshore winds tending N’ly
- Easing swells into Mon
- Fun S swell pulse Tues into Wed, favouring NENSW for size
- More small S pulses medium term with offshore winds- typical winter pattern
Recap
Tiny surf through yesterday with ankle-knee high sets (small, background E swell) and offshore winds as a front pushed into the Tasman. We’ve got a small flush of S swell showing today, topping out around 2 occ.3ft at S facing beaches in NENSW, with some background E swell offering a very inconsistent 2ft on the sets. W’ly winds this morning tending SW-S through the day.
S magnets in NENSW showing a small S swell today
This weekend (Jul 12-13)
No great change to the weekend f/cast. High pressure right up over the continent in typical winter positioning with a weak low in the Tasman and a much stronger frontal system poised to sweep up into the Tasman and join the existing low. We’ll see some nice S pulses over the weekend as multiple fetches operate on an active sea state. Favouring NENSW for size, with small background E swell padding out surf zones in SEQLD.
We should see a lovely building trend through tomorrow with initial size to 3-4ft at S facing beaches in NENSW building to 4-5ft with some 6ft sets possible at S facing river bars and smaller 2-3ft surf building in the a’noon at SEQLD S facing beaches. Offshore W’lies will tend SW then tend to light S’ly breezes.
Pumping Sun at NENSW S exposed breaks as a consolidated Tasman Low generates sizey S swell which should see more widespread 4-5ft surf, even building to 5-6ft at certain S exposed breaks as the low stalls, smaller 3ft in SEQLD at S magnets. Offshore W’ly winds tend S then veer more NW-N late in the day as a front approaches from the W.
Minor background E swell will hold a few inconsistent 2 occ. 3ft sets over the weekend, offering up good potential for a-frames at select swell magnets.
Next week (July 14 onwards)
Another week favouring S facing beaches in NENSW as fronts and lows sweep into the Tasman and high pressure remains up over the continent before tracking into sub-tropical waters.
No indications of any great size at this point.
A modest low and front sweeps up into the Tasman Mon. With pre-frontal NW winds then swinging W through SW before tailing off as light S-SE breezes.
Fun leftovers from the S Mon morning to 3-4ft in NENSW, easing with a mix of E and S swells in SEQLD showing 2 occ. 3ft surf across open beaches. We may see a late kick in new S swell on the MNC Mon.
Tues looks a better bet for new S swell with winds shifting back W’ly as another front pushes through with a small low expected to form off the south coast and move eastwards. Size to 3-4ft across NENSW S facing beaches, smaller 2ft in SEQLD is expected.
Models all suggest the low remains weak and broad and moves off to the east without doing much but there is a chance it could deepen and become a more significant swell source- we’ll keep eyes on it over the weekend report back Mon.
Fun sized S swells Wed with surf dribbling away to tiny through Thurs/Fri.
We may see a stronger frontal intrusion into next weekend- models are mixed so confidence is low.
We’ll pencil in a bog standard S swell next weekend and adjust up or down as we get more clarity next week.
Nothing medium/long term to suggest this typical winter pattern will break so continue to expect lots of offshores and small/medium S swells.
Check back Mon for the latest and until then, have a great weekend!
Comments
Thanks Steve! Good to get a run of small medium south swell, even though it can be a bit straight, it will allow the points to start accumulating some sand.
There's definitely some good beachies popping up over the last month or so.
Yep, sand is improving, slowly but surely with these small winter swells and offshores.
Some excellent low tide sand about in certain places...
Couple of our beaches had 4/5 metre erosion escarpments have had sand deposits so the escarpment is now 1/2 metres. But not all of them- fascinating to watch the regeneration
Very slow 2ft sets this arvo, maybe a few bigger 2-3ft waves but not many. Nice conditions with light offshore winds and clean water.
We had a lovely little lunch-time pulse here- 2-3ft- then backed down quickly, probably killed by the Tide.
Water clarity as good as I’ve seen in a long, long time
Yeah Solitude. The colours underwater are glorious. Duck dives have become enjoyable!
Really fun here today- mostly S swell but there was the odd E set.
How big? Was 2-3ft on the Tweed, seemed to be a similar combo.
3-4ft sets here from the S.
Couldn't really be bothered this morning, but made myself go for a paddle. Snagged a small run for about 30 minutes that made it worthwhile, clean 2 footers on a good sandbank. Then it was gone almost as fast as it arrived. Beautiful winter weather. Damn there's a lot of good sandbanks around.
Fun waves this morning, a little bigger and stronger than yesterday with 3ft+ sets across the Tweed. Stunning conditions.
Interesting Ben, was a notch smaller than yesterday on the GC
Yeah that seemed to be the case with the E swell. But the S swell came up nicely south of the border!
Strong kick on the MNC during the mid-late AM, 6ft easy exposed breaks.
Yeah built on the incoming tide this morning where I was. Mostly 3-4ft, really clean, but a slightly disorganised wobble to it. Had some punch, got some punishment a couple times on the paddle back out. Saw some outer reefs/bombies capping and breaking, really surprising given it usually takes much more size to get them stirring.
I only saw it this morning , but deffo smaller here.
Heard the magnets were pumping though.
May have been a slight tweak in swell direction or period.
Yep slow and small dawn ahead of the strong pulse.
Just got a report it came up strongly this arvo.
Good waves yesterday, bad humans. This is school holidays I guess, gotta let the touros go feral I guess, then back to gentleman surfs. Hopefully some have gone home today but we'll see.
It seems much more packed this winter than last. Cost of living crisis my arse. Anyone else want to speculate?
Think the grom comp up Coffs this week has brought them all in, yep manners severely lacking.
They were all heading home on the M1 at the airport yesdy arvo!
Still expecting a nice little pulse from the south tomorrow morning Steve ?