Extended period of surf looming for the points

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 20th August)

Best Days: Fri/Sat/Sun: building swells in SE Qld, best suited ot the points. Mon onwards: solid period of E'ly swell - possibly large at times - but probably windy.

Recap: Lots of swell from the south across exposed beaches in Northern NSW, but windy. SE Qld has fared much worse than expected today, with hardly any of this south swell penetrating beyond exposed south facing beaches.

This week (Aug 19-22)

Bit of a mixed bag for the next few days but there’ll be waves. Right now the predominant south swell is expected to hold overnight before an easing trend sets in from early Thursday morning. As the pressure gradient relaxes across the southern NSW and Mid North coasts, wind speeds will slowly ease in strength but there’ll be a lot of residual bump on the surface so expected open beaches to remain wobbly for some time yet (in the absence of a true offshore, that is). 

In fact, a developing ridge across the Qld coast will maintain moderate to fresh SE winds across the SE Qld and Far Northern NSW coasts for the rest of the week - the lighter winds will really only be noticeable south of about Ballina or perhaps Yamba (with a brief period of early offshores, unlikely to be enough to greatly improve conditions).

Surf wise, we can expect early 4-5ft sets at exposed south facing beaches in Northern NSW on Thursday, with wave heights drying up from the south through the morning and into the afternoon. Expect smaller surf at beaches not open to the south.

In SE Qld, I’m really not pinning my hope on much size across the semi-exposed points on Thursday (based on today’s observations) however as the ridge builds, the easing southerly swell will be replaced by a building short range SE swell that should slowly start to provide rideable options. Let’s cap our expectations in and around the 2ft mark by Thursday afternoon at these spots (with bigger but greatly wind affected surf at exposed beaches north of the border).

On Friday, we’ll see the arrival of a new pulse of SE groundswell, originating from a developing secondary fetch in the southern Tasman Sea at the moment. This should maintain 3-5ft surf at exposed beaches in Northern NSW, however with a similar wind regime as per Thursday, only the Mid North Coast is likely to see favourable conditions (the points further north may have small runners though.. but you’ll need to seek out some protection from the regional SE airstream).

In SE Qld, this SE groundswell will lose a lot of size as it pushes north of Cape Byron so we’re looking at a mix of this energy plus Thursday’s building short range swell (which is expected to bolster a little more as the ridge strengthens further). The combined effects of these swells should kick up some 3ft sets across the semi-exposed Gold and Sunshine Coast points throughout the day, which’ll be your only option under a fresh sou’easter - however it should be pretty fun. It’ll be bigger at exposed beaches but quality will be at a minimum.

This weekend (Aug 23-24)

Looking pretty good for SE Qld this weekend, with a broadening E/SE fetch across the Northern Tasman Sea expected to build plenty of surf across the region - the models have strengthened the outlook since Monday, so subsequently the surf forecast has been revised upwards. There’ll also be some small S’ly and SE swell in the mix but the E/SE fetch in the Northern Tasman is by far the dominant source.

The only downer are the local winds. We’re looking at a fresh and gusty SE thru’ (at a pinch) E/SE airstream and this will render all locations very ordinary bar the protected points. Still, with 4-5ft of E/SE swell on the Goldy and some bigger sets possible on the open Sunny Coast beaches (smaller on all of the points, obviously), there’ll be no shortage of size. 

On Northern NSW, wave heights will slowly taper off with increasing distance from the border. However there’s still likely to be 3-4ft of surf in the Mid North Coast: the main problem with be the overall onshore airstream. It’ll be lighter and probably even variable for a period in the morning south of Yamba but on the whole this will keep a lid on wave quality. Still, it’s nice to have an active weekend of waves ahead. 

Longer term (Aug 25 onwards)

The long term looks really interesting, albeit quite unseasonal. A large high in the southern Tasman Sea is expected to remain slow moving, whilst a broad area of low pressure across the southern Coral Sea and Far SW Pacific squeezes a broad easterly fetch across the northern half of the Tasman Sea.

There’s even a suggestion that we may see the development of an easterly dip that - if it develops - could retrograde towards the East Coast, with any likely swell aimed primarily towards the Northern NSW and Southern Qld coasts. This could have the potential to supercharge the ocean state and deliver some sizeable surf to the region.

At the moment the models are suggesting this will take place early next week (our surf forecast model picking 8ft on the Goldy on Monday! But with howling onshores). We still need a few more days for everything to come together so let’s take a close look on Friday. But in short - next week looks like seeing an extended period of sizeable east swell right across the coast.

Comments

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 20 Aug 2014 at 7:56pm

This has been an incredible August.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Thursday, 21 Aug 2014 at 4:46pm

Yep.... Even down here, FR....... Apparently over on the east coast, it's been firing... As for next week, here's a flashback to the 9th; "This upcoming system will leave "shadow" of instability over whole east coast (Townsville to tassie) as it moves away to NZ, which may prove to be a positive 24th onwards....."
Gotta love a snail trail....... ;)

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 21 Aug 2014 at 5:11pm

Not a done deal yet SD. Models still bouncing around and pushing out (timewise) the formation of the low.

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Thursday, 21 Aug 2014 at 6:03pm

As stated in another thread with FR, embedded troughs and a very handy fetch is the bare minimum - decent trade swell with sketchy winds is a worse case scenario - those "secret" points north of Campbells house lol ......

Best case is a low/fetch combo - better winds - major ne swell for sydney etc.......... Looking better by the minute.....

mitchvg's picture
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mitchvg Thursday, 21 Aug 2014 at 5:36pm

Don for EC, do you look at anything other than the ECMWF.int 850hPa wind chart?

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 22 Aug 2014 at 5:57am

No. I'm a mslp man myself. That's about the extent of my ability to read the charts. I'm not experience enough to read the upper charts.

mitchvg's picture
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mitchvg Friday, 22 Aug 2014 at 12:23pm

Ok so you have a subscription to WZ then, and that's where you look at everything?

mitchvg's picture
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mitchvg Friday, 22 Aug 2014 at 2:41pm

apologies Don just re-read the title of the model more closely... "Mean sea level pressure, wind speed at 850 hPa" I thought the isobars were also at 850, not MSL

freeride76's picture
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freeride76 Thursday, 21 Aug 2014 at 7:34pm

I totally agree SD, the worst case scenario is bizarre enough for late Aug.

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Thursday, 21 Aug 2014 at 9:32pm

Yeah, FR... A little bit out of character.... August - westerlies, one foot, chapped lips.... But it generally happens once every winter....... Usually june/july though......

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Friday, 22 Aug 2014 at 8:55am

All points to a "teardrop"....... Different to a "bomb"..... Bombs spiral off to NZ.... Teardrops just hang there, pumping swell for days and days........ Back of the "teardrop" out towards New cal has a ridge/fetch maintaining,, so even though most energy is pointed towards NSW, the "back of the low" should still produce surf for SEQ....
Want stormy big ones? - NSW
Want clean fun ones? - QLD
Want something in between? - Nth NSW......

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 22 Aug 2014 at 9:52am

Feck if only my knee was good there's some tasty places lining up for next week!!!!

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 22 Aug 2014 at 10:35am

Teardrop, good visualisation but it's more commonly known as an easterly dip..

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Friday, 22 Aug 2014 at 12:51pm

Craig, a bomb is actually a rapid cyclogenic low..... But hey ;)
Plus I'm trying to start a trend here lol......
BTW, did you know that an "easterly dip"really refers to an inland setup, not an ocean setup? Usually from that "semi permanent" winter trough I've been waffling to FR about?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 22 Aug 2014 at 1:12pm

I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter where the dip is, as long as it's a 'dip' in the easterly pressure gradients.

mick-free's picture
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mick-free Friday, 22 Aug 2014 at 1:21pm

A dip has a much different definition in NZ

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Friday, 22 Aug 2014 at 1:41pm

lol mick ;) ....
Craig.... You're "pretty sure"?????? I'm only slightly pregnant...... :p
Just jokes, man.....
I'm "pretty sure" an easterly dip is reference to eastern continental scenarios, not oceanic, south west pacific to be precise .... But I stand to be corrected.... Line up, line up lol

batfink's picture
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batfink Friday, 22 Aug 2014 at 10:03pm

I cannot remember an August like it. Mind you, July was a pretty good impersonation of a normal August.

But this! In August?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 6:47am

Hey doggie, I've always referred to it as a typically Coral Sea feature but I've got an official BOM weather handbook, will see what they say.

wellymon's picture
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wellymon Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 7:47am

Any answers....! The Dip

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 7:54am

Read recent academic literature and it refers to dips in the easterlies in the Tasman/Coral Seas. I'm certain it's not limited to inland features, as these dips only really become pronounced once the inland trough starts pushing off the coast as the trough deepens.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 8:02am

An 'easterly dip' over continental WA is a heat trough (admittedly a bloody big dip!). But I've been calling these features 'easterly dips' in the Coral Sea/Northern Tasman/SW Pacific for a long time.

Had a quick squiz through my text books and couldn't find any reference to 'teardrop' though... ;)

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 8:15am

Yeah, and I'm sure if you check the BOM glossary, there's no bomb either :p

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 8:27am

There is on Weatherzone: http://www.weatherzone.com.au/help/glossary.jsp?l=b

Bomb
An extratropical cyclone (low) where the central pressure drops by at least 1hPa per hour for 24 hours. Bombs occur where there is an upper level trough and a strong low level moisture and temperature gradient. This often occurs between warm ocean water and colder adjacent landmass. These conditions can be found in the northwest Atlantic and on the east coast of Australia where they are known as an East Coast Low (ECL). Bombs obtain much of their energy from the release of latent heat and can sometimes exhibit features similar to tropical cyclones.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 8:29am

And Wikipedia have a comprehensive listing here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bomb_(meteorology)

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 8:34am

Yeah, but nothing on BOM..... Zilch....... But hey, just like the oxford dictionary who added "Twerk", they may ad it one day.... But at this stage, Bomb is still a surfy slang term in the process of becoming official.... The correct term is "RCL", or rapid cyclogenic low.... A low the drops 24 hp or more in 24 hrs...

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 8:39am

I think you'll find many BOM forecasters refer to such scenarios as 'bombing lows'.

RCL? Never heard of it before. Google doesn't bring up anything either.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 9:41am

Are you telling me you haven't heard of rapid cyclogenesis? You're joking right? And that cyclogenetic is the adjective to the noun cyclogenesis? http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/cyclogenetic

http://www.academia.edu/4642308/Cyclogenetic_Perturbations_and_Analysis_...

http://www.wordsense.eu/cyclogenetic/

And as far as university essays go, well, we could both spend days digging them up in relation to eastern dips..... Some are right and some are wrong......But the bottomline is that the DPI/ BOM regard an eastern dip as a land trough. In black and white....
IMO, they do this to save confusion in marine forecasts........ An eastern dip refers to a dip over the EASTERN continent land area...... No confusion there...... Where ever one may be........ BUT, for example, Ben, This ocean dip, ( and it is a dip - Check my tongue in cheek comment to craig yesterday - re ' "teardrop"),,,,,,,, If we were in Norfolk Is which is part of Australia, or say, New Cal', and we spoke of an eastern dip, where would it be?????? To the west.......
If we want to be totally correct, it is actually a south west pacific dip..... But that's a mouthful, right?.....

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 9:58am

Yes mate, I have heard of rapid cyclogenesis. I've used the term many times before.

I haven't heard of 'RCL' though.

And the 'easterly' part of 'easterly dip' is not in reference to its longitude, but to the fact that it's a part of an easterly synoptic flow.

Because if you were on the East Coast, an 'easterly dip' over inland NSW would also be to the west.

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 10:48am

So therefore it is called a "western" dip in the northern hemisphere? I googled that and got some decent recipes to have with my water crackers..... ;p......Why are southern hemispherical dips in the tropical regions called "tropical dips"? It's still an easterly flow... So using that logic, it's an easterly dip....... There would be no need to use locational term like "tropical"...
"Tropical dips" - http://greenhouse2013.com/assets/Greenhouse/Presentations/1120PowerMR3Fr...

And one could be in Afghanistan reading the Australian weather report..... "There is an Eastern dip"....... DPI and BOM say that an eastern dip is a dip over the east of the continent......Not hard to understand....... That's what they write..... I wonder where the tropical dip is ;)
It's cool, Ben..... Just continue to call it an eastern dip...... Meanwhile, I'm gonna try to get this "teardrop" term trending on twitter hehehehe......

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 10:52am

It's an 'easterly dip' not an 'eastern dip'. I've only ever referred to the former.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 8:44am

As for "nothing on BOM", well there are lots of terms missing from their glossary that we might use. Captured fetch? Scatterometry? Forerunners? Angular spread?

Just compare Weatherzone's glossary to the BOM and you'll find they're pretty light on.

http://www.weatherzone.com.au/help/glossary.jsp
http://www.bom.gov.au/lam/glossary/apagegl.shtml

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 8:06am

Under "Regional-scale climate variability in Victoria" from this paper:

4.1 Identification of 20 key regional synoptic patterns.

"Synoptic type 4C exhibits a low pressure trough located offshore, running parallel to the coast, also known as an ‘easterly dip’ (Sturman and Tapper, 2004). The offshore trough is often associated with the development of particularly heavy rainfall along the east coast of Australia. Some offshore easterly dips can lead to the development of east coast cyclones (i.e. cut off lows/Tasman lows) during cooler months which are associated with intense rainfall events in Victoria and NSW. Synoptic types 3D and 4D display divergence in the isobars located in the Pacific Ocean, east of NSW, which may lead to the development of east coast lows. However, these are unlikely to result in significant rainfall for Victoria as their development is too far to the north."

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 8:13am

From the DPI NSW - " An easterly dip (not shown
here – see What drives NSW weather?) is a
SPECIFIC type of INLAND TROUGH that extends into
NSW from Queensland. " - http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0017/140174/understandi...

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 8:36am

And from this paper, from the "University of Wollongong Thesis Collection":

"Flooding can result from at least six different synoptic classes individually, including tropical trough/lows, deep tropical lows, tropical cyclones, frontal systems and easterly dips (continental and offshore)."

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 9:46am

Let's just agree to disagree and move on shall we!!!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 10:00am

Sd it's clear mate that in professional surf forecasting, common parlance and academic use an easterly dip can refer to an offshore feature.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 10:54am

Oh well, FR.... Contact the DPI and BOM, and say "professional surf forecasters" are right, and you are wrong ;) Don't know what part of this you don't understand, FR - " An easterly dip (not shown
here – see What drives NSW weather?) is a
SPECIFIC type of INLAND trough that extends into
NSW from Queensland. - http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0017/140174/understandi...

SPECIFIC.........INLAND........... Black and white, man...

wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443 Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 10:08am

Semantics fellas ...

... just tell when when the fucking easterly winds will piss off and the surf will clean up.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 11:06am

Yeah it is all semantics, wingnut..... It could be called a jellyfish shitwind...... :p

wellymon's picture
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wellymon Saturday, 23 Aug 2014 at 4:06pm

Interesting 'Dip' off, thanks for the info gentlemen ;)

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Sunday, 24 Aug 2014 at 11:04am

Dippity doo dah, dippity day... My oh my there's a swell on the way ;)

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Sunday, 24 Aug 2014 at 5:01pm

Holy fuck look at the snapper cam.........sea of ants.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 24 Aug 2014 at 9:15pm

And that was only with a 5/10 rating, imagine how crowded it would have been with a 6 or 7 rating.
Honestly 5/10? F'real?

Bob's 2 Bob's's picture
Bob's 2 Bob's's picture
Bob's 2 Bob's Sunday, 24 Aug 2014 at 10:05pm

would be good to be on bob hawkes surf team this week - what you think?