Bloggers Waves

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog started the topic in Monday, 24 Mar 2014 at 10:22am

Wellymon posted an awesome lineup shot of a windswept break somewhere east of Kiwiland a while back. That got me thinking..... Now please excuse and forgive me if somewhere deep in the bowels of swellnets forums there is a similar thread, but perhaps bloggers here could post in their old (and new) lineup photos, or shots from memorable sessions.
And please don't "photoshop" them...... Personally, I despise photoshop. It's not real..... I love the rustic charm of real photography, even it's imperfections. I like the older photo's in picture magazine too, if ya get my drift..... nothing like a rough tattooed home girl, but that's another story ;)
I'll kick it off with Coolum bays, as good as it gets, circa late 90s, and a slightly more secret break , 2012, down here in apple land, which I wont name.......
Look closely, first photo of coolum, has guy on outer wave, second photo has 3rd bay kegging off it's nut, and tassie photo also has guy sweeping bottom turm on outside bomb...

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot commented Sunday, 17 Mar 2019 at 5:05pm

Ha ha yes I guess so..just one more

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Sunday, 17 Mar 2019 at 5:09pm

That’s a fucking smokerrrrr , Goofy.

That’s where I’d love to be right now. Except if I fell off I’d surely drown.

You really aren’t opposed to going left are you ?

Goofyfooters are a different breed .

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Sunday, 17 Mar 2019 at 5:10pm

.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Sunday, 17 Mar 2019 at 5:44pm

I got given a GoPro at work. I thought it’d be cool to play with but it turns out I didn’t really give a fuck cause I forgot about it for a couple of years. Then I found it one day and decided to have a play. I bought a mouth mount because every other view makes you look like a retard.

-See that ? Classic Self delusion. Thinking that one GoPro mount is less dorky than another .-

Particularly the GoPro mounted on the nose of your board . Looks like you’re being attacked by killer bees. Flatters no one. So I bought the mouth mount at the airport on my way to Indo . Not sure if you’ve ever seen one , it’s like the mouth piece from a snorkel . It’s ungainly and a pest to surf with . So I finally took it out for an experiment one small morning with no one around because you really don’t want to be that guy filming themselves or sitting around with a camera hanging off their face like a malignant tumour.

So I caught a few waves then a few crew came out and I felt like a fool and went in . This is the result .

If youre thinking of getting one I’d say - fuck that. Sure some people get some cool shots , but it’s a vanity project that’s nothing but drama. For a start you’re compromising your session by worrying about a fucking camera and turning it on and off , rather than just losing yourself in your session like you hope to. Plus it’s a logistical hassle. Carrying it , getting wiped out with a camera hanging out of your mouth is just asking to lose all your teeth.

All in all , it’s a headache . Don’t go there.

I give it 1 star out of 5 .

Hats off to the crew doing it for a living like Anthony Walsh though. Pulling into massive pits and risking 22 teeth just to get the shot so I can watch it from the comfort of my lounge. Cheers you mad bastards .

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot commented Sunday, 17 Mar 2019 at 5:15pm

I do like rights too, don’t get me wrong..

Nice clean wahpuhhhh on that one blowie

indo-dreaming's picture
indo-dreaming's picture
indo-dreaming commented Sunday, 17 Mar 2019 at 5:41pm

I think the shoulder/arm mount would be the best, but only something you would ever want to take out in real hollow waves.

Those mouth mounts look so uncomfortable.

Totally agree on the whole deal though only time id feel comfortable with a go pro in the water is if i wasn't surfing and just taking shots of others or inside barrels type shots.

Those board mount facing backwards, i just cringe when i see guys with the actual mount without the camera on their boards, just knowing they have filmed themselves flapping around.

Please Stunet give me an ignore button for Talking Turkey, Shatners Basoon, Dale Cooper, Factotum, Pupkin, and any new fake profile he decides to create.

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot commented Sunday, 17 Mar 2019 at 6:29pm

And really only on Skeleton Bay type waves

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Sunday, 17 Mar 2019 at 6:45pm

Happy St Pats

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot commented Sunday, 17 Mar 2019 at 7:59pm

Thought that disappeared before.
I’d be very happy at that place. Incredible wave

Edit. Wtf, you took it down AGAIN blowin? Now i look like I'm talking away to no one..

Westofthelake's picture
Westofthelake's picture
Westofthelake commented Sunday, 17 Mar 2019 at 7:14pm

Great pics gf. Keep em coming. Goofys rule. Bloody Natural footers wouldn't know which way the wind was blowin'. Haha.
Go Pro for the gob? Yea naa.
Good review though, and despite the dodginess of the pics they do capture the sunny smooth and solid vibe of the conditions.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM commented Sunday, 17 Mar 2019 at 8:26pm

Who says Tuscany doesn't have waves?

yocal's picture
yocal's picture
yocal commented Monday, 18 Mar 2019 at 9:45am

Blowin, I hear you about the GoPro. I also found the mouth mount is by far the best because it causes less distraction in terms of paddling etc.

I find that it prevents me from really being in the zone in a session and out of sync with being positioned for the sets. also I seem to take less risk. All in all, I now strictly only surf with a go-pro when i'm by myself in a line-up because if you're sharing waves with someone and blowing a set-wave here or there the other person doesn't need to put up with that.

Most of the best stills come from closeouts and the one or two keepers in a session might come out looking very average after reviewing it on the screen. I've had sessions where the battery goes flat after an hour or so of struggling to find a keeper, then paddling back out and after 5 mins get the wave of the session and a ride that would actually look decent on film. I've managed to get a few stills that I was happy with and are great to sit on my desktop and return to the moment while i'm at work, or show to a few very jealous mates after a mid-week strike.

Overall I use it two to three times a year and sometimes wonder that in the ideal conditions to bring it out, wouldn't it be better to switch off the device and immerse myself in the solo-session in pumping waves, and not risk missing the set of the day because I was distracted and left the positioning paddles a second too late?

Go deeper Taylor, go deeper!

yocal's picture
yocal's picture
yocal commented Monday, 18 Mar 2019 at 10:08am

Go deeper Taylor, go deeper!

ojackojacko's picture
ojackojacko's picture
ojackojacko commented Monday, 18 Mar 2019 at 11:57am

yeah blowin, yocal. my go pro experiment was a cheap chinese knock-off (surprisingly good quality). used board mounts but ended up with a good canadian mouth mount (different from the snorkel jobs). but ultimately, using a go pro in the surf just shits me. i like photography, and when i do it i'm doing photography. having a camera in the surf means i'm not really surfing. got some ok stills but would rather just surf. doesn't worry me at all what other people choose to do though

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot commented Monday, 18 Mar 2019 at 12:05pm

Yocal I think that problem with yours is that the waves just aren’t hollow enough....

Holy fuck man that bottom one is actually square. You mad dog

Bnkref's picture
Bnkref's picture
Bnkref commented Monday, 18 Mar 2019 at 12:48pm

Great shot (goofy's one overlooking the big left). Love the view from up there (our answer to Ulus in my mind). Need to get back in the water at that spot. Has been too long.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet commented Monday, 18 Mar 2019 at 1:01pm

That first shot Yocal! Crazy curves up ahead. Love that weightlessness after taking the pressure off the inside rail and bringing it up the face to set your line. 

Westofthelake's picture
Westofthelake's picture
Westofthelake commented Monday, 18 Mar 2019 at 1:28pm

Great pics Yocal, was half expecting a comment from Stu, "could have been deeper" :)

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Monday, 18 Mar 2019 at 1:37pm

Yocal - Have a go , mate. Get off those rolling mush burgers and find something with a bit of throw ! Seriously, that thing looks like cyclops..

Andy - Nice shot . Very unique.

yocal's picture
yocal's picture
yocal commented Monday, 18 Mar 2019 at 2:53pm

Thanks yeah it is a fleeting view more often than not punctuated by a good walloping!

Stu, wrangling that particular section is the very reason I wait 6-8 months to score it each year. And each time I return I have to get the knack of it again.

It catches you off-guard in terms of how hard you have to square off the face into the trough to prevent yourself from being sucked up and into the lip. After the first two wallopings you really begin to pay attention to how you set your line!

Go deeper Taylor, go deeper!

factotum's picture
factotum's picture
factotum commented Sunday, 12 Jul 2020 at 8:42pm

Secret spot.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig commented Monday, 13 Jul 2020 at 10:59am

Looking like an actual point ;p

Bnkref's picture
Bnkref's picture
Bnkref commented Monday, 13 Jul 2020 at 12:20pm

Saw that one on Insta yesterday. Brilliant photo.

I usually only surf there around Christmas when I'm back visiting. Geez it can be atrocious at that time of year.

factotum's picture
factotum's picture
factotum commented Monday, 13 Jul 2020 at 1:23pm

What, like this?

Merry Xmas!

Bnkref's picture
Bnkref's picture
Bnkref commented Monday, 13 Jul 2020 at 3:11pm

Haha! Spot on. I can smell that seaweed from here (about 800 km away).