Bloggers Waves

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog started the topic in Monday, 24 Mar 2014 at 10:22am

Wellymon posted an awesome lineup shot of a windswept break somewhere east of Kiwiland a while back. That got me thinking..... Now please excuse and forgive me if somewhere deep in the bowels of swellnets forums there is a similar thread, but perhaps bloggers here could post in their old (and new) lineup photos, or shots from memorable sessions.
And please don't "photoshop" them...... Personally, I despise photoshop. It's not real..... I love the rustic charm of real photography, even it's imperfections. I like the older photo's in picture magazine too, if ya get my drift..... nothing like a rough tattooed home girl, but that's another story ;)
I'll kick it off with Coolum bays, as good as it gets, circa late 90s, and a slightly more secret break , 2012, down here in apple land, which I wont name.......
Look closely, first photo of coolum, has guy on outer wave, second photo has 3rd bay kegging off it's nut, and tassie photo also has guy sweeping bottom turm on outside bomb...

braudulio's picture
braudulio's picture
braudulio commented Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 1:10pm

Got any jobs going down your way tripper?

‘IF YOU UNDERSTAND, things are just as they are;
if you do not understand, THINGS ARE JUST AS THEY ARE.’

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig commented Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 1:14pm

Epic TPG!!

trippergreenfeet's picture
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trippergreenfeet commented Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 1:17pm

braudulio wrote: Got any jobs going down your way tripper?

Not anything noteworthy, that's why I work FIFO... plus I can avoid the weekend warrior, not that there's anything wrong with being a WW, just not for me.

trippergreenfeet's picture
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trippergreenfeet commented Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 1:31pm

Craig wrote:

Epic TPG!!

Epic is an understatement, that Exmouth / Bluff trip smoked from beginning to end.
Started with Exmouth bombie at 15' with 12 days of shit hot waves no smaller than 4' from Exmouth to Yardies, then a quick bolt to the Bluff for the last day... the photos tell the rest.

The bulk of the photos from the Exmouth part of the trip are missing, think they may have gone up in a house fire couple of years back.

braudulio's picture
braudulio's picture
braudulio commented Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 1:57pm

trippergreenfeet wrote:
braudulio wrote: Got any jobs going down your way tripper?

Not anything noteworthy, that's why I work FIFO... plus I can avoid the weekend warrior, not that there's anything wrong with being a WW, just not for me.

Bugger, that left looks like the goods! WW doesn't work for me either, luckily live close enough to the local to take or leave weekends.

‘IF YOU UNDERSTAND, things are just as they are;
if you do not understand, THINGS ARE JUST AS THEY ARE.’

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog commented Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 2:14pm

trippergreenfeet wrote: Waitpinga last Friday arvo glassoff, had that right all to myself, yew.

One wave sequence.




Wonderful, tgf :)

Sheepdog

fraser-gordon's picture
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fraser-gordon commented Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 2:39pm

ha ha same left.

Blowin's picture
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Blowin commented Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 6:04pm

I remember that seal TGF .... prick of a thing. That left is a hoax . It only breaks a handful of times a year. You must have been lucky that year......looks nice though.

wellymon's picture
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wellymon commented Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 6:27pm

Awesome photos TGF,
Hows the elephant seal...? Big boy for sure.

The photos of the Bluff.... Wow
"the framing of the Bluff with the full moon" Subaru Wagon in the fore ground.....?

Great photos TGF ;)

Our brains are too small at the moment to comprehend the reality of what's happening in our forests . We're only just waking up so to speak . The big problem is we think we know everything, we are specks of dust on a timeline and we know nothing .

trippergreenfeet's picture
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trippergreenfeet commented Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 6:29pm

Blowin wrote: I remember that seal TGF .... prick of a thing. That left is a hoax . It only breaks a handful of times a year. You must have been lucky that year......looks nice though.

Glad I'm not the only one who thought that seal was a bastard, that chick in the photo thought he was "cute" and thought we were being harsh hating the prick... she never entered the water though.
I later learnt from the local rangers that he and his two consorts did the trip from Exmouth to Madagascar yearly, well out of normal Elephant seal range.

The left was shit, the right however was smoking with the bigger swells, and the hollow right to the north of Gravyards was working too.

trippergreenfeet's picture
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trippergreenfeet commented Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 6:32pm

wellymon wrote:

The photos of the Bluff.... Wow
"the framing of the Bluff with the full moon" Subaru Wagon in the fore ground.....?

Hahaha, can't win em all for the cracker shot, gotta play what ya dealt... don't think it would have gone down too well - 6am wake up call, knock knock "hey mate, can ya shift ya car while I take a sweet photo"

wellymon's picture
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wellymon commented Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 6:36pm

TGF 15' Exmouth Bombie....?

I see that break often from above sitting in a really big Drone;)

Our brains are too small at the moment to comprehend the reality of what's happening in our forests . We're only just waking up so to speak . The big problem is we think we know everything, we are specks of dust on a timeline and we know nothing .

trippergreenfeet's picture
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trippergreenfeet commented Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 6:52pm

wellymon wrote: TGF 15' Exmouth Bombie....?

I see that break often from above sitting in a really big Drone;)

I was talked into paddling out with an older bloke from Margs, fucken hellman he was... fuck me was that an experience. Only caught two waves, spent most of the session saving my arse from getting smashed.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 7:08pm

Beautiful part of the world. Nice work TGF

trippergreenfeet's picture
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trippergreenfeet commented Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 7:23pm

That year in September saw a couple of big swells, the first one that hit Exmouth, Ulu lefts was 8' plus, and the right off the sth side of Ulu was winding off for ages when I surfed it, dead leg stuff. Dunes was just massive and out of control.

Thinking about the old bloke that I surfed the bombie with, I think it might of been old man Hardy. He surfed it, then sailed it, just an all round waterman. No wonder his lads charge.

Blowin's picture
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Blowin commented Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 8:07pm

September can be great. I'm not far from The Bluff now.

caml's picture
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caml commented Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 10:14pm

Tgf your tripping that left has never got 8ft & t hardy doesnt sail

trippergreenfeet's picture
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trippergreenfeet commented Wednesday, 3 Sep 2014 at 8:32am

caml wrote: Tgf your tripping that left has never got 8ft & t hardy doesnt sail

I dont know hardy from a bar of soap, and you've now made it clear the dudewho mentioned it to me at the time doesn't either... I'll just call him the mystery man.

As for calling wave size, I think that is commensurate with the size of ya balls, and is very obvious yours are a damn sight larger than mine so your always gonna call shit smaller than me, haha.

caml's picture
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caml commented Wednesday, 3 Sep 2014 at 9:09am

Yeah sorry tgf im just jealous cos i like that x bommie & im a bit protective

trippergreenfeet's picture
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trippergreenfeet commented Wednesday, 3 Sep 2014 at 9:40am

Cool as caml, I can see how ya can get to love that wave... I only surfed it that one time and was intimidated but I can see once ya find the groove it would be a whole lotta fun.

mothart's picture
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mothart commented Wednesday, 3 Sep 2014 at 11:04am

Does 'Bruce' still live at 'murderer's bommie'?

Hey Old Dog, is that you in the photo with the tshirt, jeans & board?

caml's picture
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caml commented Wednesday, 3 Sep 2014 at 12:14pm

For sure bruce & family swim back n forth . As for the murder the guys still locked up , i googled it once & there it was . Hunters carpark left closes out as soon as its big

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog commented Wednesday, 3 Sep 2014 at 5:51pm

fraser-gordon wrote: ha ha same left.

Is that you relaxing in the pocket, FG?

Sheepdog

fraser-gordon's picture
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fraser-gordon commented Wednesday, 3 Sep 2014 at 8:39pm

Yep Sheepy cheers Rowlz for the photo here's another he took on the same day .

wellymon's picture
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wellymon commented Wednesday, 3 Sep 2014 at 8:59pm

Wow, nice wave f-g.

Our brains are too small at the moment to comprehend the reality of what's happening in our forests . We're only just waking up so to speak . The big problem is we think we know everything, we are specks of dust on a timeline and we know nothing .

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog commented Thursday, 4 Sep 2014 at 10:08am

wellymon wrote: Wow, nice wave f-g.

Yeah, like sweet candy..... Gotta love those 3 - 4 foot clean uncrowded groundswell sessions.... Just fun for funs sake....

Sheepdog

Craig's picture
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Craig commented Thursday, 4 Sep 2014 at 3:00pm

My last surf in Adelaide down at Waits before moving to Sydney...

It was a week day, and the surf the next day was supposed to be pumping, 3-4ft, straight offshore all day and during the middle of summer, so hot.

I slept in the back of my wagon in the Waits car park, noting in the darkness a right hander just right of the main stairs, whitewater running from the outside, perfectly all the way to shore.

Set the alarm for first light as the crowds during summer under a hot northerly get busy early.

I woke up to my alarm and while still dark, got out the car and started to hook into bananas and other fuel for the morning surf.

After about 20 minutes it was still super dark, with no light showing on the horizon. I checked my watch, and I had woken up an hour too early, setting it to the wrong time.

Wide awake I stood there watching the white-water from the perfect looking right, and then started to hear something in the distance that sounded like hooting.

Next wave I noticed just in front of the waves white-water trail, a smaller track line what was amazingly a surfer!

No way! Waits in the darkness, 45 mins before first light, it couldn't be. Listening harder the hoots were from the water, with a couple of guys scoring in the dark.

I was supposed to be meeting a friend for the early, but with pumping waves with a couple out I couldn't wait, so I suited up and headed down the beach.

There's a small outcrop of rocks that sometimes become uncovered in front of where the right was, and in my eagerness and carelessness (along with the total darkness) I duckdived right into one on the paddle out through the shore. Dinged the board slightly but that wasn't stopping me.

Once out there it was surreal, surfing these 4ft perfect rights in near darkness before the sky slowly started to lighten and everything became clearer and clearer. Apparently the guys surfed the wave the day before and were keen to hit it up before the crowds, crazy!!

My friend eventually came out, but with the filling tide and day break, the magic was almost done, it was still unreal but nothing like the pre-dawn session.

Was an epic last surf before trekking east and one I'll never forget, especially on a sand bank that perfect, as they're super rare along the Waits and Parsons stretch.

fraser-gordon's picture
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fraser-gordon commented Thursday, 4 Sep 2014 at 4:44pm
trippergreenfeet's picture
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trippergreenfeet commented Thursday, 4 Sep 2014 at 4:59pm

Thanks Craig for that cool story and FG for the vid... back in the desert so nice to live the life vicariously through other measures.

wellymon's picture
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wellymon commented Thursday, 4 Sep 2014 at 7:13pm

trippergreenfeet wrote: Thanks Craig for that cool story and FG for the vid... back in the desert so nice to live the life vicariously through other measures.

Secound that;)

Our brains are too small at the moment to comprehend the reality of what's happening in our forests . We're only just waking up so to speak . The big problem is we think we know everything, we are specks of dust on a timeline and we know nothing .

trippergreenfeet's picture
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trippergreenfeet commented Friday, 5 Sep 2014 at 8:54am

Found a few more pics from the vault...

Suicides

Parsons

Bullies on a hell NW blow, bloody tough surf that session

Different faces of my old backyard


PInes, small but smokin

Tunks, not my shot, don't know how I ended up with it but it's a worthy inclusion.

NJ at Avalon Point


fraser-gordon's picture
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fraser-gordon commented Friday, 5 Sep 2014 at 8:59am

Hey Tripper how's that Bullies one?Would of been a nightmare trying to get down the things. Here's another little vid of Waits maybe Craigs right?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCSjVsbEB8Y

trippergreenfeet's picture
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trippergreenfeet commented Friday, 5 Sep 2014 at 9:58am

I took a few blind, over the falls trips that day...

Inside section of the same Bullies wave as above with a dude doing some serious shoulder hoppin.

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groundswell commented Friday, 28 Nov 2014 at 10:55pm

I dont usually go for airs but heres a clip of ME in a fun day in perth recently. Hi uplift!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDzGRtkZIKg

groundswell's picture
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groundswell commented Friday, 28 Nov 2014 at 11:07pm

Heres another of me with died hair going switch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MPdQzSnO-30

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog commented Wednesday, 17 Dec 2014 at 3:05pm

1992, not that far from Melbourne. No one around.... No one.... Perfect reef... clean 3 foot+.... Sunny...

Sheepdog

Shatner'sBassoon's picture
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Shatner'sBassoon commented Wednesday, 17 Dec 2014 at 5:52pm

Waves of WA nostalgia for these troubled times (note the absence of lots of other punters...Hell is other people!)

The pot

The sharky right across the road from the heaving left

Mystery point up even further up the road. Live coral, yowch!

Blowin's picture
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Blowin commented Wednesday, 17 Dec 2014 at 6:53pm

Hey Swellnet, I've got a photo you might like, but I'm computer illiterate . Can I e mail it to you guys for insertion here ? Might even be WOTD standard, I'll guarantee it actually, but it's a few years old.

Shatner'sBassoon's picture
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Shatner'sBassoon commented Thursday, 18 Dec 2014 at 10:01pm

A jealously guarded secret in SA...I don't know if I should even be posting this

When this place is on, the rush is on!

Craig's picture
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Craig commented Friday, 19 Dec 2014 at 12:26am

Ha, look at all the weed, must of been blowing south-east for months!! And Blowin email me [email protected]

factotum's picture
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factotum commented Tuesday, 11 Dec 2018 at 7:37pm

I hope Pipe gets like this. Crab-killer!

(I'm not the 'blogger' that took this photo, by the way)

Westofthelake's picture
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Westofthelake commented Saturday, 16 Mar 2019 at 4:02pm

5 year old thread-timeless.
Some really incredible photos and stories and oh so funny at times!
The Swellnet forums just keep on giving.

Anyway, in the spirit of the thread on a wet and shite Saturday I found a worthy pic to share.

Local secret spot that rarely works.

Blowin's picture
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Blowin commented Saturday, 16 Mar 2019 at 4:58pm

Looks beautiful Westof.

You ?

Westofthelake's picture
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Westofthelake commented Saturday, 16 Mar 2019 at 6:11pm

Yea blowin. After the lifty debacle on page 1 of this thread I thought id better keep it authentic :)
Btw can you believe its taken you 5 years to learn how to post photos without using bloody imgur.!? Haha. It only took me 2. (imgBB a bit better - cheers facto!)

And re the photo, it has had a 'tropical' filter applied, but it was winter thats for sure.

goofyfoot's picture
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goofyfoot commented Saturday, 16 Mar 2019 at 7:10pm

...image deleted, it was giving a bit too much away
Ill try to find a more suitable one

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goofyfoot commented Sunday, 17 Mar 2019 at 4:54pm

Hey getting closer

Blowin's picture
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Blowin commented Sunday, 17 Mar 2019 at 5:01pm

.

goofyfoot's picture
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goofyfoot commented Sunday, 17 Mar 2019 at 4:53pm

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goofyfoot commented Sunday, 17 Mar 2019 at 4:52pm

Blowin's picture
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Blowin commented Sunday, 17 Mar 2019 at 5:00pm

Nice shots Goofy .

You hate a left , huh ?