Large surf over the weekend, best on the Surf Coast

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)

Victoria Forecast by Craig Brokensha (issued Friday 13th January)

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Best Days: Experienced surfers on the Surf Coast Saturday and early Sunday, both coasts Monday morning, Surf Coast Tuesday morning

Recap

Even better surf yesterday across the Surf Coast with a mix of swells to 3-4ft under a light morning offshore wind. The Mornington Peninsula was too big across the beaches, but Flinders and Western Port offered good options.

Today the swell was hanging in early and conditions good with a light N'ly offshore breeze. We'll see the wind pick up a little from the N'th through the day ahead of a swing to the NW into the afternoon and W/SW change into the evening.

This weekend and next week (Jan 14 - 20)

All eyes are on the weekend and the large W/SW groundswell due across the state.

Currently the mid-latitude low is south of WA, with a large swell currently impacting the Margaret River region. A fetch of W/SW gales are still being aimed in our western swell window, but through today the low will broaden while drifting a touch further south, projecting gale to severe-gale W/SW winds towards us.

This will then be followed by a trailing fetch of severe-gale to storm-force SW winds through our southern swell window tomorrow.

What will result is a large and rapid increase in W/SW swell through tomorrow, with the groundswell proper filling in through the afternoon.

Mid-period swell to 4-5ft across exposed breaks is due on the Surf Coast tomorrow morning, 6-8ft on the Mornington Peninsula, building through the afternoon and reaching 6ft+ by dark across the Surf Coast and 10ft+ on the Mornington Peninsula.

The W/SW groundswell should peak overnight and start easing Sunday, likely from 4-6ft on the Surf Coast and 8-10ft on the Mornington Peninsula, but the secondary fetch of S/SW winds will generate a large reinforcing S/SW groundswell arriving mid-late morning.

This should produce a noticeable kick in energy (especially more protected spots), to 5-6ft on the Surf Coast and 8ft on the Mornington Peninsula, before easing later in the day and more so Monday from 3-4ft and 6ft respectively.

Now, winds will be best for the Surf Coast over the weekend with a morning moderate to fresh W/NW breeze tomorrow, swinging W/SW early-mid afternoon. This should provide plenty of time for two surfs for experienced surfers.

Into Sunday W/SW-SW winds are expected (S/SE late in the day) but the Torquay region is likely to see an early W/NW breeze, but conditions won't be perfect.

Monday is looking good across both coasts with a variable wind through the morning ahead of SE sea breezes.

Tuesday will be smaller and clean again on the Surf Coast with a morning N/NW offshore.

Into later Wednesday and Thursday morning, a mix of small acute W'ly swell and mid-period W/SW swell are due. The W'ly swell is being generated by a broad low south-west of WA, but this system is mainly too north and not ideal. The remnants of the low should move east and through our western swell window during next week, producing a small more consistent but weak W/SW swell.

Size wise, onshore winds and a late increase is expected Wednesday, with small 2ft waves on the Surf Coast Thursday and 3-4ft sets on the Mornington Peninsula with E'ly winds. More on this Friday, have a great weekend!

Comments

Gary_G_Gherkin's picture
Gary_G_Gherkin's picture
Gary_G_Gherkin Friday, 13 Jan 2017 at 10:59am

Thanks Crag, Just wondering how many swell for Monday morning?

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Friday, 13 Jan 2017 at 1:06pm

1-5 swell I think mr gerkin

Gary_G_Gherkin's picture
Gary_G_Gherkin's picture
Gary_G_Gherkin Friday, 13 Jan 2017 at 3:40pm

Thanks Goffy. I'm guessing 1-5 swell means one minute per five swells? So that means 235 swells per hour. With the morning going for approximately 6.5 hours, that equates to over 2000 swells on offer. WHO WILL GET THE MOST SWELLS??????!

deeman's picture
deeman's picture
deeman Friday, 13 Jan 2017 at 10:21pm

Could be a case of jerkin' the Gherkin here

deeman's picture
deeman's picture
deeman Friday, 13 Jan 2017 at 5:05pm

Hey Craig, the forecast is only for 10-12 seconds on Saturday, barely a groundswell. Are we over calling it?

geek's picture
geek's picture
geek Friday, 13 Jan 2017 at 9:49pm

Definitely

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 13 Jan 2017 at 10:27pm

I mentioned mid-period energy in the notes above, with groundswell into the mid-late afternoon. Will grow in strength all day.

deeman's picture
deeman's picture
deeman Saturday, 14 Jan 2017 at 1:27pm

Fair enough, you did say that. Just need a bit more energy for a couple of protected spots

Ralf's picture
Ralf's picture
Ralf Friday, 13 Jan 2017 at 5:23pm

Hey Gary,

That's some pretty impressive maths skills there haha. But you'll find that the amount of swells is due to the actual swell period. So I think the period for this swell is actually like around 12-14 seconds (so one wave every 12-14 seconds) which as you put it is almost 5 waves per minute or there abouts. Sheesh I never even thought about how many waves would break over a morning period. Certainly hope that I can get at least 25-30 of those 2000 waves haha. I'll bet some of the really really good guys could get like almost 50 waves. But I'll be happy with 25 haha!

Looking like winkis could be absolutely pumping! Certainly hoping for a few barrels. Been a long time since it's been good!

Hope everyone gets some sick waves

Yeeew,

Ralf

greyhound's picture
greyhound's picture
greyhound Friday, 13 Jan 2017 at 5:28pm

Stinkin comp on at bells tomoz. Could be juniors I think. What's the protocol there. Especially since it's been a pretty waveless summer.

Hako o hakonde ni-biki no inu's picture
Hako o hakonde ni-biki no inu's picture
Hako o hakonde ... Saturday, 14 Jan 2017 at 8:01am

Just paddle out and tell them to fuck off, or tell them to fuck off and then paddle out!

Either way don't go out to where I'm surfing or then you'll be told to fuck off, we are very precious at Port Albert, very Prreccious.

ringmaster's picture
ringmaster's picture
ringmaster Saturday, 14 Jan 2017 at 5:31pm

Well that was an anti climax wasn't it!

First light between Torquay/Bells was wonky 3 foot, short period average at best. Super crowded too being Saturday. Just had another look now and it's 4 foot onshore junk.

Crew that raced down from Melb and surrounds would be pretty happy about blowing a tank of juice and a few hours return travel time for that.

Ah well, they can do it all over again tomorrow cause it's gunna be pumping.............isn't it???

McGusto's picture
McGusto's picture
McGusto Saturday, 14 Jan 2017 at 6:26pm

Waves were pumping east of melbs ringmaster.

Protected spots around patto and liptrap were the go

The Plowking's picture
The Plowking's picture
The Plowking Saturday, 14 Jan 2017 at 7:35pm

Westerly component.
Really week mid energy in Westernport.
Should be cranking tomorrow size wise with the secondary SSW energy.....just that wind.

Hako o hakonde ni-biki no inu's picture
Hako o hakonde ni-biki no inu's picture
Hako o hakonde ... Sunday, 15 Jan 2017 at 6:25am

The words pumping and cranking were just used in a very over frothing way weren't they?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Sunday, 15 Jan 2017 at 8:43pm

Shame the swell seemed to come in under expectations.

Cape Sorell readings are great, despite the westerly in the direction.

southey's picture
southey's picture
southey Monday, 16 Jan 2017 at 2:58am

It wats always a SA swell , or closer too anyway ! :-)))) except obliviously loch sport and beyind ;-)

Hako o hakonde ni-biki no inu's picture
Hako o hakonde ni-biki no inu's picture
Hako o hakonde ... Monday, 16 Jan 2017 at 10:25am

That wave of the day looked familiar and then I noticed it was barreling so it wasn't in vicco.
Loch sport is hot on the realestate market.