Stormy, wet week ahead

James KC

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by James Casey (issued Monday 15th February)

Best Days: Wednesday and Saturday/Sunday for protected spots (offshore along GC) 

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Strong S to SE to E winds for much of the week with building SE swell tending ESE trade swell, becoming solid
  • Mid period pulse on Wednesday, hitting 6ft, another pulse Thursday/Friday more like 4-5ft+
  • Low drifts down along QLD coast on weekend generating larger chunkier conditions and biggest swell for the weekend, 6-8ft+ late Sunday/Monday
  • Easing Tuesday could be the pick with more options available

Recap:

It’s the calm before the storm along the Mid N Coast, Nth NSW and SE QLD today (Monday) as generally smaller waves with a S to SSE wind swell delivered modest wave heights. Winds were lighter earlier before a stronger SW to SE flow filled in along the entire coast, a good day to get everything ready for the week that is about unfold.

This Week

Well, what a week we have on our hands. Strong S to SE winds are going to blow pretty much the whole time slowly shifting more and more east as each day goes on. You’ll be getting to know your southern corners well, otherwise becoming accustomed to chunky onshore waves. 

A ridge of high pressure set up over the Tasman is being squeezed by a low over NZ and associated trough off the NSW coast, driving these persistent winds to our coast and generating a stormy SE/ESE swell for the first part of the week. 

The first decent pulse will come through on Wednesday, generated from these persistent SE winds ramping up as the ridge interacts with the trough off the Nth NSW coast. It’ll peak just over 6ft but with winds remaining strong SE it’ll just be protected southern corners that have anything decent.  

The next pulse will arrive late on Thursday into Friday morning as an easterly trade flow sets up. This swell will be more ESE originating from winds north of NZ intensifying as the ridge interacts with a low that shifts away to the east. This second pulse will be a bit smaller more like 4-5ft and winds are also going to have more E in it when they arrive meaning there won’t be many places with clean conditions.

Into the Weekend

This is where it gets a bit more interesting with a large 6-8ft+ swell to hit our coast later this weekend (most likely peaking Monday). A low is set to drift down along the QLD coast and intensify on Saturday. Strong winds out of the S will mean southern points will be the only surfable options.

Intense gales along a slim section of the S and SW flank of this low will be the source of this hefty swell. The fact that swell heights were already up around 4-5ft+ you add this system to the mix and we easily get the largest wave heights of the week. 

It’s important to mention that this system being so close to our coastline will produce a pretty raw swell but with winds out of the S rather than SE or ESE, southern corners and protected points will have relatively clean conditions compared to what was experienced for most of the week. 

Unfortunately the peak size of this swell is likely to max out most locations along the coast. The best option for the majority of spots will probably be on the backside of this swell as conditions ease a bit and become more manageable for more spots along the coast.

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 15 Feb 2021 at 5:25pm

Welcome to the team James!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 15 Feb 2021 at 5:28pm

Amazing that we didn't see more size in SE Qld, given the prolonged 50kt gusts yesterday arvo/evening.

https://fb.watch/3FFGJnwVHs/

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Monday, 15 Feb 2021 at 6:12pm

Howling for last 24 hours at least, but barely 1.5' at Dbah this arvo

bbbird's picture
bbbird's picture
bbbird Monday, 15 Feb 2021 at 9:27pm

'mesoscale convective vortex', minicyclone.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 15 Feb 2021 at 5:40pm

New Fcaster?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 15 Feb 2021 at 6:05pm

Yep. We'll do a proper introduction down the track. 

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Monday, 15 Feb 2021 at 6:03pm

You got some big boots to fill Jimmy. . . Ben Matson posseses a 6th sense in divining long range probabilities into observed realities
said by a great forcaster himself

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Monday, 15 Feb 2021 at 6:10pm

Nice first forecast James. As for you Huey, pah!! Only about two places to surf either side of the border and you can imagine the crew...

crg's picture
crg's picture
crg Monday, 15 Feb 2021 at 7:07pm

4-8ft for a week! I like you already James.
What now for you Ben? Long boozy lunches and a new Jaguar for surf checks ha!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 15 Feb 2021 at 7:13pm

Actually, that's all I've done for the last nineteen years. These FC Notes were outsourced to some bloke in the Philippines called Lorenz a long time ago.

nextswell's picture
nextswell's picture
nextswell Monday, 15 Feb 2021 at 7:27pm

Haha Lorenzo rollin in a benzo. Bring on the swell.

dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope Monday, 15 Feb 2021 at 7:53pm

Welcome James!!
If I may be so bold, I’ll try to sprinkle a little BM in here and take a splinter for you...
Of course these low pressure systems close to coast only need to shift slightly to result in a significant change in the forecast. We’ll be following the updated synoptics closely and keep you posted in the comments.
See you Wednesday!
(Smiley face)
How’d I go Ben?

Redmond Clement's picture
Redmond Clement's picture
Redmond Clement Monday, 15 Feb 2021 at 8:14pm

Nice work james.

dr-surf's picture
dr-surf's picture
dr-surf Monday, 15 Feb 2021 at 8:37pm

All Downhill from here James. Keep this Fcast, won’t be many Better.

Patate's picture
Patate's picture
Patate Monday, 15 Feb 2021 at 8:53pm

Hi James, warm welcome! you will now play an important role in my life , at least every Mondays Wednesdays and fridays!
Nice start, easy to read, and a nice long term call for early next week...thx,

Ben Harding's picture
Ben Harding's picture
Ben Harding Tuesday, 16 Feb 2021 at 9:17am

+1

Mad Dog's picture
Mad Dog's picture
Mad Dog Tuesday, 16 Feb 2021 at 3:12pm

+2

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Monday, 15 Feb 2021 at 9:50pm

Welcome James, looks like I'll get a lot of work done this week.

James KC's picture
James KC's picture
James KC Tuesday, 16 Feb 2021 at 7:06am

Thanks for the warm welcome crew, excited to get into it and yeah wasn't a bad outlook for my first public forecast on swellnet. Huuuge shoes to fill, good thing is I can still lean on him for the scoop. 

vbaaccess's picture
vbaaccess's picture
vbaaccess Tuesday, 16 Feb 2021 at 9:00am

For those if thought the swell should had been bigger over the last couple of days considering the very strong southerly winds. The fetch was too close to the coast and it was not long enough to generate any real swell. Basically a local generated windswell. As as soon as the wind dropped the windswell also dropped. Towards the end of the week into next weekend is a totally different picture. Back to the points and the crowds.

dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope Tuesday, 16 Feb 2021 at 9:11am

What size you calling on the weekend VB?

vbaaccess's picture
vbaaccess's picture
vbaaccess Wednesday, 17 Feb 2021 at 12:27am

windy.com has easterly swell 3.5 meters over the weekend.

dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope Wednesday, 17 Feb 2021 at 8:36am

ok cool, i was interested to know how you were interpreting the models for surf size. I think we are all itching to know which board we're riding this weekend, I know I'm spending to much time thinking about it! I'd also add - no need to go to windy for that info when you're already on the worlds best surf forecasting site.

dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope Wednesday, 17 Feb 2021 at 8:46am

I'm thinking that it's still up in the air with the position of that low and could be anything from 4foot groomed offshore beachies to big windy points

gingeryeti's picture
gingeryeti's picture
gingeryeti Tuesday, 16 Feb 2021 at 1:52pm

Welcome to the mosh pit James, please don’t forget about us sunny coasters :)

tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir Tuesday, 16 Feb 2021 at 4:31pm

Welcome James, great report - would prefer 3-4ft groundswell w/ light variables next time, though.

mickseq's picture
mickseq's picture
mickseq Tuesday, 16 Feb 2021 at 6:14pm

Thanks for putting "best days" back on

mickseq's picture
mickseq's picture
mickseq Tuesday, 16 Feb 2021 at 6:18pm

is the forecast size page semi-reliable yet? I like to look ahead

https://www.swellnet.com/reports/australia/queensland/gold-coast/forecast

thanks very much

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 17 Feb 2021 at 9:54am

Yep, everything working fine.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 17 Feb 2021 at 9:54am

Sloppy 4ft+ sets on the Tweed this morning. Really nothing that interesting.

surfiebum's picture
surfiebum's picture
surfiebum Wednesday, 17 Feb 2021 at 10:32am

Hope I'm wrong, but I think the first trough is too far south for the sunny coast and second low is also going to fly past too quickly to generate much...

crg's picture
crg's picture
crg Wednesday, 17 Feb 2021 at 1:39pm

Been pretty ordinary down here...swell is about but not really getting into corners with any wind protection which are pretty junky anyway. Definitely looking like a backend of swell event as forecast.