More swell ahead, though biggest in Northern NSW

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 17th July)

Best Days: Sat/Sun: solid surf in Northern NSW (much smaller in SE Qld) ideal for the points Sat and open beaches north of the border Sun. Mon: small clean leftovers across open beaches. Wed/Thurs/Fri: fun waves at protected Northern NSW spots and outer SE Qld points. 

Recap: Very large waves have persisted out of the S/SE for the last two days though the swell direction has created a large variation in size across the coast especially in SE Qld where it’s been a lot smaller. Northern NSW has managed 8ft sets both days at south facing beaches (smaller elsewhere) and SE Qld has ranged from 3ft across the outer points to 4-5ft at exposed northern ends and south facing beaches. Winds have held moderate to fresh from the southern quadrant (lighter SW early) so the points have offered plenty of great waves. A new E/SE pulse is filling in across the Mid North Coast this afternoon and should spread northwards overnight.

Empty insiders at The Alley early Friday

Late Friday lines at Snapper

This weekend (July 11 - 12)

Similar winds are expected on Saturday as what we’ve seen today, though they will ease back and we’re looking at a light variable flow across most regions on Sunday, under the influence of a high pressure system pushing into the Tasman Sea. So, protected locations will be your best option on Saturday, almost everywhere should be clean at some point on Sunday.

This is convenient as we’re looking at a stack of fresh E/SE (Northern NSW) tending SE (SE Qld) swell, sourced from one final intensification of the Tasman Low on Thursday. Wave heights will reach a peak on Saturday morning and then trend down into the afternoon and further into Sunday. 

Surf size should peak in the 8ft range across the Mid North Coast, and 6ft+ range across remaining Northern NSW locations on Saturday morning, but throughout SE Qld we’ll see much smaller size, from 3-5ft at exposed northern ends/south facing beaches, and 3ft across the outer points (much smaller inner points). Expect wave heights to ease by a foot or two into Sunday morning, and then a little more into the afternoon.

Sunday’s easing trend will be accompanied by much lighter winds and thus cleaner conditions, though open beaches south of the border will still be a little sizeable through the morning. 

Next week (July 20th onwards)

Incredibly, the low in the Tasman Sea is still active right now and is expected to be generating swell for the East Coast throughout Saturday and into Sunday morning. With an approx 1.5-2 day lag time across the basin, this means we’ll see (easing) easterly swells through the first half of next week. 

Winds will swing from the W to the SW on Monday as a front crosses the southern part of NSW, we’ll see a gradual freshening across the Mid North Coast and an afternoon trend to the south, but no major strength is expected north from Ballina. 

Wave heights should still manage 3-5ft across the Mid North Coast early Monday, and 3ft+ north from Yamba, but it’ll be much smaller in SE Qld (1-2ft outer points, 2-3ft exposed northern ends). Expect size to ease steadily throughout the day. 

Tuesday then looks to see fresh southerly winds as a new high pressure ridge builds across the coast. Additionally, we’ll see building S’ly swells from the low/front pushing through the Tasman Sea, which should kick up 4-6ft surf at south facing beaches (south of Byron) by late afternoon and holding into Wednesday. Of course, with these winds, only sheltered southern corners and points will be clean and they’ll be undersized through the morning, and possibly much of the afternoon in the north. So, Tuesday looks a little patchy.

This south swell won’t do a lot in SE Qld but the outer points may pick up a few 2ft+ sets, with wind affected 3-4ft waves at exposed northern ends from Wednesday through into Thursday (size will ease back across Northern NSW during this time). 

Looking further ahead, and a strong trailing polar low well south of Tasmania Tues/Wed will set up a smaller but better quality S’ly tending S/SE groundswell for Friday afternoon MNC (likely Saturday north from here) with 3-5ft sets at south facing beaches south of Byron though very little size north of the border.

Additionally, there’s a suggestion for a deepening coastal trough off central Qld mid-late next week which may generate some punchy out-of-season E’ly swell for SE Qld later next week. But that’s a long time away.

Have a great weekend, see you Monday!

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 18 Jul 2020 at 7:33am

Noice.

Matilda0213's picture
Matilda0213's picture
Matilda0213 Saturday, 18 Jul 2020 at 8:59am

Morning Ben I was just wondering what was the thought and need of another cam at caba?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 18 Jul 2020 at 9:52am

Rather than having panning cams that often look at parts of the wave that are not breaking, it's more efficient - and more useful - to have several fixed cams.

For example, many of our cams in SE Qld will be positioned at the right part of the wave at high tide, but as the tide drops and the wave breaks wide of the bank, it falls outside of the view of the Surfcam (which is instead looking at whitewater lines).

In the case of Caba, the cam would often spend an inordinate amount of time looking at the wide bank which doesn't break unless it's big (and the sand is right etc).

This means someone has to log in to the cam at various times of the day to move the view around, which is a bit of a pain - and if no one is around, it means the cam view is useless.

So, to solve the problem of the last fifteen years where we receive emails "can you please adjust the cam so it's looking at the break a bit better", it's much better to have a couple of cams.

Also, both Caba cams are behind the paywall and are therefore only available to a small percentage of viewers.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 18 Jul 2020 at 10:32am

I'm gonna have to watch this set on the Replay a little later. Mesmerising!












adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Saturday, 18 Jul 2020 at 11:48am

Shame NNSW is still no good, too big everywhere but everyones fav f#$^$#% point break. Not the right direction for the bay either.
Wish we had some reefs up here.
Should gone the goldy today i guess.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 18 Jul 2020 at 12:18pm

pretty underwhelming really for the most over-hyped swell of the year and maybe ever.

Wednesday was overs but every day since has been massively over-called.

Today is a scrappy 3-5ft with the very odd 6footer. windy, wobbly, mostly short period garbage with the very odd diamond in the rough. Very ordinary.
But the report says pumping 6-8ft..

Thats fucking parallel universe stuff.

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Saturday, 18 Jul 2020 at 12:40pm

Largely nowhere you could paddle out at the height of the swell here. Anywhere you could was sweepy straight rubbish.
Current running like a train again today. Will have shifted some nice sand.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 18 Jul 2020 at 12:59pm

Wednesday I watched the entire bank get destroyed and then a massive slug of sand re-fill it in within a space of 2-3hrs.

it was incredible.

not sure what all this short period garbage and gurgle will do to it now.

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Saturday, 18 Jul 2020 at 1:15pm

Wow, thats amazing. I'm waiting to scout the aftermath over the next few days,

Distracted's picture
Distracted's picture
Distracted Saturday, 18 Jul 2020 at 12:23pm

6-8 on the Mid North, maybe it’s still in the increase up the coast.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 18 Jul 2020 at 12:47pm

Possible but I doubt it.

more like the fetch was aimed up better at targets to the south.

swell is easing here.

burleigh's picture
burleigh's picture
burleigh Saturday, 18 Jul 2020 at 3:07pm

Best day of the swell by far on the GC.

alexsmith1's picture
alexsmith1's picture
alexsmith1 Sunday, 19 Jul 2020 at 5:19am

You mean best day at snapper. Other points have been working since Wednesday

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Saturday, 18 Jul 2020 at 4:01pm

Most open beaches one big closeout, not surprising at ~13s. Surfed wed-fri one spot the best it's been in 3 years. Today was half as good and twice as busy. Thanks Huey, suck it weekenders.

burzum's picture
burzum's picture
burzum Saturday, 18 Jul 2020 at 4:54pm

Just enough of a swing towards the east and the goldy turned on today. If you had your paddling shoulders my local point break was farken epic. Long Makeable barrels. crew who can’t read the eddy currents get swept down the point resulting in big gaps in the crowd. Sorts the men from the boys. Stoked.

boogiefever's picture
boogiefever's picture
boogiefever Saturday, 18 Jul 2020 at 9:04pm

S.C absolute shite. Drove one end to the other.... Shite.
Sunny coast not made for south swells....

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Sunday, 19 Jul 2020 at 12:28pm

Finally some nice waves around this morning, got a few bazza's!
Loads of fish around

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 19 Jul 2020 at 3:55pm

today much better than yesterday.

yeah, tons and tons of fish feeding, mostly bonito hitting glassies.

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Monday, 20 Jul 2020 at 8:51am

Sea mist this morning was incredible.

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Monday, 20 Jul 2020 at 3:20pm

Still some fun waves around today but nothing spesh.
Funny NNSW really only got one good day (yesterday) outta this swell.
(cant call the point good when its crawling with euro's brazzos, and understandably agro locals).
Hopefully the following south swells will render more beaches surfable

JackStance's picture
JackStance's picture
JackStance Monday, 20 Jul 2020 at 4:33pm

"agro locals" geeez - what do you expect?!

Our people are proportionally the most incarcerated people on the planet, and our children are stolen at a rate today higher than that at the peak of the Stolen Generations.. so yeah, we get angry about such racist abuses of the state which are continually supported by the voting public as the benefactors.

Or are you referring to 'white locals'?

Isn't that oxymoronic?

Always was, always will be, Aboriginal land.

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Monday, 20 Jul 2020 at 8:36pm

Man stop hijacking any comment mentioning locals to try and attack people about indigenous rights. Not the first time i've seen you do it.
I absolutely agree with regarding indigenous rights, but it's clear when i say "agro locals" that im talking about people who have lived in an area/surfed a spot for a long time or since birth and are wankers about it.
Im not talking about white locals, im talking about any agro local at lennox point, white brown black, pink, its irrelevant.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 20 Jul 2020 at 6:47pm

Looks like potentially rinse and repeat for next week!!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 20 Jul 2020 at 6:53pm

more northwards evolution. looks like a Fraser coast trough line.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 20 Jul 2020 at 6:58pm

New FC Notes up (sorry for the delay). 'Tis complex!

https://www.swellnet.com/reports/forecaster-notes/south-east-queensland-...