Large swell inbound but with poor winds for the South Coast

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)

South Australian Surf Forecast by Craig Brokensha (issued Wednesday 21st)

Best Days: Mid Coast for the keen Saturday morning, dawn Sunday South Coast, Tuesday morning South Coast

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Large SW groundswell Fri with strong S/SW winds (S/SE on dark across the Mid)
  • Large, reinforcing S/SW swell Sat, easing with SE tending S/SE winds
  • Easing S swell Sun with dawn, variable winds ahead of freshening S/SE winds during the morning
  • Smaller Mon with fresh S/SE-SE winds
  • Small Tue with NE tending SE winds
  • Moderate sized surf mid-late next week

Recap

A funky day of winds down South yesterday, varying from NE to SE but mostly cross-offshore with fun options in protected spots, still 2ft this morning and with similar, favourable winds.

The Mid Coast was flat yesterday with a tiny trickle of swell to 0.5ft this morning.

This week and weekend (Feb 22 - 25)

Tomorrow is still due to be a lay day as the swell bottoms out under NW tending strong SW winds as a change moves through, linked to a strong mid-latitude low pushing in from the west.

As touched on in Monday's notes, this low is forming as the remnants of Tropical Cyclone Djoungou drift south-east into the Southern Ocean, merging with a cold front resulting in the rapid deepening of the storm.

The low looks a little tighter in scope, with a fetch of severe-gale W/SW winds due to be generated in our south-western swell window this afternoon and evening. This should generate a strong pulse of SW groundswell for Friday peaking into the afternoon, while some good, reinforcing mid-period S/SW swell is due Saturday morning owing to the low weakening but broadening while moving in towards Tasmania tomorrow and Friday morning.

Middleton should kick to a strong 5-6ft through Friday, easing back slowly from 4-6ft on Saturday morning and then down further from 3ft+ Sunday.

The swell for the Mid Coast looks a little tricky size wise and not quite as ideal with building sets to 2ft due Friday, easing from 1-2ft on Saturday morning.

We've still got those strong S/SW winds into Friday, creating poor conditions across all locations, tending S/SE on dark across the Mid Coast while Saturday will favour the gulf with morning SE breezes, freshening from the S/SE.

Sunday morning still looks best for the South Coast but the window of clean conditions will be small. Early variable winds are due to shift S/SE and then freshen through the morning, so go the early for the best conditions.

S/SE-SE winds will linger into Monday with smaller surf, cleaning up Tuesday but with a small, leftover 2ft of swell.

As touched on Monday, the longer term outlook is a bit more active as a healthy Southern Ocean frontal progression fires up to the south of Western Australia, bringing moderate + sized mid-period swell mid-late next week but with winds likely out of the southern quadrant. More on this Friday though.

Comments

Charlie Brown's picture
Charlie Brown's picture
Charlie Brown Wednesday, 21 Feb 2024 at 4:02pm

Any leftover swell for the Mid on Sunday Craig?
Surfing For The Disabled at Moana from 1pm, for anyone who wants to pull on a rashie and volunteer to help the kids

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 21 Feb 2024 at 6:05pm

Great work Charlie. Should just be enough hopefully for Moana peelers. 0.5-1ft.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 26 Feb 2024 at 6:42am

How'd it go Charlie?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 26 Feb 2024 at 11:49am

Just saw some photos on Facebook, looked like a perfect and great day!

Clam's picture
Clam's picture
Clam Friday, 23 Feb 2024 at 8:26am

Craig , was this almost a bombing low that blew up?
The j curve on the buoys is as steep as they get!
From one to 6metres in a matter of hours

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 23 Feb 2024 at 9:32am

Yep, close to but not quite!

There's a bit of windswell mixed in there, shown by the gap between the peak and average period but that's a strong and significant swell front!

Clam's picture
Clam's picture
Clam Friday, 23 Feb 2024 at 6:38pm

Yeah not so big at whitefellas break looked surfable 6ft sideshore