A couple of pumping days on the Cali coast earlier this month sampling a mix of windy, perfect barrels and longer, drawn out lefts.
Great quote from good ole Terence Mckenna
We have everything we need
except the will
it's a mental quality lacking in us
the will to do it
the will to undertake planetary sized projects
the will to metaplan that has a 20-50-500 year benchmark
I take his meaning of 'will' to be a collective collaborative will
For example a metaplan for a total reset of our surfing reality
Recreational Surfer owned and funded wavepools
Recreational Surfer owned and funded surfing reefs
watching any footage of California waves is great.
However I cant help but notice all the oil rigs just off the coast.
Those rigs you see were responsible for starting the environmental movement.https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/how-oil-spill-50-years-ago-inspir...
But yeah, they're wack. I grew up there, so I'm used to seeing them.
We have everything we need except the will. Thats what i was thinking about the chosen filming position for the first lefts. Wouldn't it have been better down the beach looking into them?
But duuude they're deeeeper from the south side....either that or there's an Oil refinery on the north side.
There's a military base to the south and a harbor to the north (those rocks walls are the harbor mouth).
Loved it. Some meaty waves there.