Desert Storm surfboard

gotta agree with Caml there Stu. 7'6" doesn't seem like such a big board to me and there's tons of days where the Point is a windy 6ft or more with no-one out or only a few guys because thin indo 6'8's paddle like shitt and no-one can deal with the current.
I love the way you can lean on a bigger board and let the turn follow the rail line . It won;t get as much use here as in WA but it deffo won;t be gathering dust under the house.

freeride76 wrote:

gotta agree with Caml there Stu. 7'6" doesn't seem like such a big board to me and there's tons of days where the Point is a windy 6ft or more with no-one out or only a few guys because thin indo 6'8's paddle like shitt and no-one can deal with the current.
I love the way you can lean on a bigger board and let the turn follow the rail line . It won;t get as much use here as in WA but it deffo won;t be gathering dust under the house.

Ya might be getting it wet Monday and Tuesday

freeride76 wrote:

gotta agree with Caml there Stu. 7'6" doesn't seem like such a big board to me and there's tons of days where the Point is a windy 6ft or more with no-one out or only a few guys because thin indo 6'8's paddle like shitt and no-one can deal with the current. I love the way you can lean on a bigger board and let the turn follow the rail line . It won;t get as much use here as in WA but it deffo won;t be gathering dust under the house.

Rightio, rightio, swap 'once-a-year' for, I dunno, once a month? Doesn't have quite the same level of effect, but regardless I'm sure it'll be a special board.

PS: A 7'6" would be a strict per annum deal down here. Rode a 5'8" in 6-8 foot waves on Wednesday.

That's assuming that the rider follows the politically correct scheme of riding the smallest possible board for the conditions.

There's an alternative, which is to ride the gun even in small surf... socially unacceptable to be sure, but practical.

In my opinion the silliest thing to do is to wheel out a board which one hasn't ridden for months right when one needs confidence in and familiarity with one's equipment the most.

Roy Stuart wrote:

That's assuming that the rider follows the politically correct scheme of riding the smallest possible board for the conditions. There's an alternative, which is to ride the gun even in small surf... socially unacceptable to be sure, but practical. In my opinion the silliest thing to do is to wheel out a board which one hasn't ridden for months right when one needs confidence in and familiarity with one's equipment the most.

It's politically correct to ride small boards? Who the hell thinks that way?

stunet wrote:

Roy Stuart wrote:

That's assuming that the rider follows the politically correct scheme of riding the smallest possible board for the conditions. There's an alternative, which is to ride the gun even in small surf... socially unacceptable to be sure, but practical. In my opinion the silliest thing to do is to wheel out a board which one hasn't ridden for months right when one needs confidence in and familiarity with one's equipment the most.

It's politically correct to ride small boards? Who the hell thinks that way? I'm riding a 5'8" asymm 'cos it's fun as hell and I'm enjoying finding its limits, not cos it's "socially acceptable".

There's a massive amount of marketing and even social pressure directing people to ride the smallest board which their ability and the waves will allow.

I didn't say that you are not having fun, just that your assumption that a 7'6" wouldn't/shouldn't be used unless the length is absolutely needed reveals that going longer (for the fun of it) is not being considered as a reasonable option for others, by you.

What do you think all those volume charts are pushing?

By the way the nature of scientific and below the line marketing is such that people always think that their behaviour in reponse to it is coming from within, rather than from without.

It's no coincidence that what is 'fun' is always what we are told is fun by the media.

:p

'... it has been scientifically determined by our experts that the correct volume for you is xy litres...'

'... this adds up to more fun...'

That's the gist of it.

So everyone is a media patsy 'cept for you?

Roy, I understand you want to push your barrow at every available opportunity so Im gonna politely opt out. See ya...

[quote=stunet

PS: A 7'6" would be a strict per annum deal down here. Rode a 5'8" in 6-8 foot waves on Wednesday.

You may not be once they all get their desert storms stu, the pack will move 20 m's further out and you'll be left duck diving under them as they do there best to run you down.:-)

stunet wrote:

So everyone is a media patsy 'cept for you?

Roy, I understand you want to push your barrow at every available opportunity so Im gonna politely opt out. See ya...

Fark mate if you want to at least pretend that you are a bit of a journalist you'll have to do better than that...

Re. the accusation of 'pushing my barrow' hardly since anyone can make or ride boards of larger dimensions, in case you hadn't noticed camel is... so am i pushing his barrow?

Perhaps you'd like me to post insincerely to avoid harmonising with my own views and consequent barrow pushing?

If you won't even admit that the millions spent on marketing by the industry actually affect human behaviour then you are so far up the industry backpipe that there's little hope....

if you rode anything remotely resembling a gun in normal conditions you'd soon find the comments flowing from other surfers e.g. 'you don't need a gun out here' etc. It's reality.

caml wrote:

Well said roy .

Thanks.

Don't tell everyone ;)

....and "going longer for the fun of it " in the wave range and shape most people are riding usually translates as "going longer to get more waves 'cos I don't want to compete on a level playing field...it's too damaging to my unstable (read misplaced) high self-esteem."

blindboy wrote:

....and "going longer for the fun of it " in the wave range and shape most people are riding usually translates as "going longer to get more waves 'cos I don't want to compete on a level playing field...it's too damaging to my unstable (read misplaced) high self-esteem."

Thanks for your comment, it's a prime example of the social pressure to ride boards which are as short as possible , which I mentioned earlier.

Social pressure of a fairly extreme sort... and coming from a industry fellow to boot.

.

The outriders in the distribution are the longboards. I often surf a 6'6" if it overhead. So the range of shortboards on those days is roughly 5'8" to 6'6". Ten inches. Then there are the long boarders on boards two to three feet longer. So the 90% riding short boards are supposed to accept that the 10% on over sized equipment are entitled to take whatever waves their ridiculous equipment enables them to catch without complaint or resentment? Crawl back in your hole Roy, what you do has no resemblance to modern surfing so you are spectacularly ill equipped to talk about it. No more oxygen to idiots. I'm out of here.

blindboy wrote:

The outriders in the distribution are the longboards. I often surf a 6'6" if it overhead. So the range of shortboards on those days is roughly 5'8" to 6'6". Ten inches. Then there are the long boarders on boards two to three feet longer. So the 90% riding short boards are supposed to accept that the 10% on over sized equipment are entitled to take whatever waves their ridiculous equipment enables them to catch without complaint or resentment? Crawl back in your hole Roy, what you do has no resemblance to modern surfing so you are spectacularly ill equipped to talk about it. No more oxygen to idiots. I'm out of here.

Lol I'd hate to be you.

If you become abusive enough then your mate will remove the conversation thus saving you further embarrassment, so you'll probably have to stick around a bit longer to get the job done.

With surfboards you pay your money and you make your choices... as an individual one don't control other people's choices... but as an industry/media member one has a part in controlling other people's choices. Your agenda is hanging out.. tuck it in a bit perhaps.

If you choose to respond with resentment to other people's equipment choices then that's your decision and your responsibility.

I estimate that your attitudes are 'dyed in the wool' so won't be changing any time soon, but don't you get sick of the bitterness which you have? It can't be healthy.

By the way my surfing is postmodern, it doesn't refer to the classical vs modern paradigm.

Anyway what about the 'Desert Storm' boards?

I get the impression that Camel thinks that they are a fun choice for smaller waves.

A one board quiver perhaps?

blindboy wrote:

The outriders

'Outriders'

That's a keeper as a fun tongue in cheek handle for big board riders.

In a way it sums up our differences... you see being an outlier, or 'outrider' as a bad thing... a place you wouldn't want to be in, you'd rather hang with the herd, whereas I don't mind being apart from the crowd.

Each to their own.

Roy Stuart wrote:

stunet wrote:

Roy Stuart wrote:

That's assuming that the rider follows the politically correct scheme of riding the smallest possible board for the conditions. There's an alternative, which is to ride the gun even in small surf... socially unacceptable to be sure, but practical. In my opinion the silliest thing to do is to wheel out a board which one hasn't ridden for months right when one needs confidence in and familiarity with one's equipment the most.

It's politically correct to ride small boards? Who the hell thinks that way? I'm riding a 5'8" asymm 'cos it's fun as hell and I'm enjoying finding its limits, not cos it's "socially acceptable".

There's a massive amount of marketing and even social pressure directing people to ride the smallest board which their ability and the waves will allow.

I didn't say that you are not having fun, just that your assumption that a 7'6" wouldn't/shouldn't be used unless the length is absolutely needed reveals that going longer (for the fun of it) is not being considered as a reasonable option for others, by you.

What do you think all those volume charts are pushing?

By the way the nature of scientific and below the line marketing is such that people always think that their behaviour in reponse to it is coming from within, rather than from without.

It's no coincidence that what is 'fun' is always what we are told is fun by the media.

:p

Here's an experiment for you Roy. Go down to a beach where people are surfing. It can be any beach in any country on any continent in the world. Pay attention to the people riding stand up surfboards. Now, what are they doing when they're standing up on a wave?

Come on, what are they doing?

Do I have to answer for you? They're turning Roy. Turning their surfboards, and they're doing that because it is fun. No-one told them it was fun, it just is, even the young kid from Western Sahara whose never read a mag in his life think it's fun. Moving your body in synch with your board, banking against gravity, recovering and adjusting to do it all again, and again, and again.

It's fun, and the media has no say in it.

And you know what are the best boards for doing those turns on, Roy?

I'll leave you to dwell on that.

I got some thing similar to the Desert storm. Its a 7'7 x 20 x 3 rounded pin. Flat deck with down rails, plenty of volume with V around the fins. The original hawaiian mini gun. You can take off further out and deeper. Early entry no air drops ( too old for that). Puts you in the spot for the set of the day.

Owl Chapman shaped it for me in january. Great in surf 6 foot and over or challenging conditions. I reckon the volume gives you the speed, drives long and fast off the bottom. Turns fine because you've got the speed.

The shape is totally lost on the younger crew, I like that fact.

Roy Stuart wrote:

Anyway what about the 'Desert Storm' boards?

I get the impression that Camel thinks that they are a fun choice for smaller waves.

A one board quiver perhaps?

Nope I wouldn't of thought so.

If you want to surf varying sized waves as well as you can surf them, I don't think there is such a thing as a one board quiver is there?

atticus wrote:

Roy Stuart wrote:

stunet wrote:

Roy Stuart wrote:

That's assuming that the rider follows the politically correct scheme of riding the smallest possible board for the conditions. There's an alternative, which is to ride the gun even in small surf... socially unacceptable to be sure, but practical. In my opinion the silliest thing to do is to wheel out a board which one hasn't ridden for months right when one needs confidence in and familiarity with one's equipment the most.

It's politically correct to ride small boards? Who the hell thinks that way? I'm riding a 5'8" asymm 'cos it's fun as hell and I'm enjoying finding its limits, not cos it's "socially acceptable".

There's a massive amount of marketing and even social pressure directing people to ride the smallest board which their ability and the waves will allow.

I didn't say that you are not having fun, just that your assumption that a 7'6" wouldn't/shouldn't be used unless the length is absolutely needed reveals that going longer (for the fun of it) is not being considered as a reasonable option for others, by you.

What do you think all those volume charts are pushing?

By the way the nature of scientific and below the line marketing is such that people always think that their behaviour in reponse to it is coming from within, rather than from without.

It's no coincidence that what is 'fun' is always what we are told is fun by the media.

:p

Here's an experiment for you Roy. Go down to a beach where people are surfing. It can be any beach in any country on any continent in the world. Pay attention to the people riding stand up surfboards. Now, what are they doing when they're standing up on a wave?

Come on, what are they doing?

Do I have to answer for you? They're turning Roy. Turning their surfboards, and they're doing that because it is fun. No-one told them it was fun, it just is, even the young kid from Western Sahara whose never read a mag in his life think it's fun. Moving your body in synch with your board, banking against gravity, recovering and adjusting to do it all again, and again, and again.

It's fun, and the media has no say in it.

And you know what are the best boards for doing those turns on, Roy?

I'll leave you to dwell on that.

You are a genius, I'd never thought of that.

Dirt Track wrote:

I got some thing similar to the Desert storm. Its a 7'7 x 20 x 3 rounded pin. Flat deck with down rails, plenty of volume with V around the fins. The original hawaiian mini gun. You can take off further out and deeper. Early entry no air drops ( too old for that). Puts you in the spot for the set of the day.

Owl Chapman shaped it for me in january. Great in surf 6 foot and over or challenging conditions. I reckon the volume gives you the speed, drives long and fast off the bottom. Turns fine because you've got the speed.

The shape is totally lost on the younger crew, I like that fact.

:)

Roy Stuart wrote:

You are a genius, I'd never thought of that.

Clearly. Why else would you persist shaping 10 foot tankers for head high surf, then obstinately accuse the rest of the world of being naive when they don't appreciate your shapes?

atticus wrote:

Roy Stuart wrote:

You are a genius, I'd never thought of that.

Clearly. Why else would you persist shaping 10 foot tankers for head high surf, then obstinately accuse the rest of the world of being naive when they don't appreciate your shapes?

I don't and and some of them do but I have no doubt that these small points will be lost on you.

.

Caml here's a big wave shooter for you to drawl over : 1969 9ft gun shaped by Lopez

Lyttlestreet instagram

Here we go...

https://instagram.com/p/61IokDkza0/?taken-by=lyttlestreet

Im stuck can pretty much only buy one custom a year. I want a summer board so im keen to get a board shorter than my 6 but with heaps more volume so i can still surf in small summer surf.but looking at the desert storm im thinking i can get the best of both worlds...

bloody hell Roy , a lot of talking but the videos of you surfing betray any hint of high performance surfing, you know like hard bottom turns and carves off the top , barrel riding and waves over 3'.

theory is a bitch , she is just a dream

Ease up Sharkman.

It's just poor videography.

Roy layed over a 6 G's bottom turn into a rip off the top that sent so much spray it significantly altered the monthly rainfall stats for the Taranaki region not long after that clip was filmed.

It's not Roy's fault if the cameraman's poor work ethic was responsible for the lack of any evidence of actual physical rather than theoretic testing of his patented C.H.O.A.D fin system (TM ).

I believe you Roy.

Weight on weight off.

That's the feeling we all love....!

Or is it?

wellymon wrote:

Weight on weight off.

That's the feeling we all love....!

Or is it?

Jenny Craig ?

All depends on the feeling you want. I rode a 5'8"all summer, a 5'10" all winter. But we had a winter of small, high quality surf.
Lots of times when we get waves here we also get wind and current. Take a 5'8" out in 6ft surf and you'll end up down the boat channel spending an hour trying to paddle back to the peak. Ain't gunna happen.

Nothing like the feeling of a big board on a big point wave or reef. Getting in early behind the button, driving it wide open, powering as hard as you can off the bottom, time and time again. You just can't get that feeling on a small, underweight surfboard. You need weight and length for the glide. Paradoxically that opens up so many more options as to how you can surf a wave. Modern equipment can be very limiting in terms of line and length of turning arc and how you can apply the power when cutting hard against the trim line.

Anyway, got the first go-out on the DS this morning in really nice head high Point surf. Obviously the thing paddled like a barracuda. Paddling in deep behind the peak and getting up high through the take-off before cutting down on the rail felt as good as it always does. I was shocked at how loose the board felt through the corners, no probs drawing full figure 8's. After 3 or 4 set waves I sin binned myself. Felt super smooth, the quad set-up ran through the turning arcs really nicely. Immediately felt comfortable on it, felt like I could take it out in 8-10ft surf and paddle in to one.

Nice work Freeride.

You get any fish off the beach around the bait balls ?

Not off the beach but I got 2 jew off the rocks last night

Stoked.

Some pics of the New DS please freeride.

I took some, just have to get them off the camera. Will try and do it tomorrow.

If you have the right equipment you have got no excuses not paddle out....

sharkman wrote:

bloody hell Roy , a lot of talking but the videos of you surfing betray any hint of high performance surfing, you know like hard bottom turns and carves off the top , barrel riding and waves over 3'.

theory is a bitch , she is just a dream

Coming from a man who can't measure.

For me, it's about making the wave, which is the primary benchmark of performance, without which no other window dressing is possible.

.

Blowin wrote:

Ease up Sharkman.

It's just poor videography.

Roy layed over a 6 G's bottom turn into a rip off the top that sent so much spray it significantly altered the monthly rainfall stats for the Taranaki region not long after that clip was filmed.

It's not Roy's fault if the cameraman's poor work ethic was responsible for the lack of any evidence of actual physical rather than theoretic testing of his patented C.H.O.A.D fin system (TM ).

I believe you Roy.

You believe what?

Primary benchmark of performance is length of ride ....

And all this time of been wasting my efforts chasing thrills.

You should have told me earlier Roy.

Is there nothing you can't quantify ?

Blowin wrote:

Primary benchmark of performance is length of ride ....

And all this time of been wasting my efforts chasing thrills.

You should have told me earlier Roy.

Is there nothing you can't quantify ?

It's not necessary that we all pursue the same performance objectives.

.

Too true Roy.

How do you establish if you've had a good surf or not ?

Do you measure distance with a GPS or count time and then extrapolate distance covered at average speeds when you get back in the car park ?

Have you ever found yourself smiling mid - wave ?

Before you've successfully completed a ride ?

A successful surf? That depends upon how one feels, which depends upon lots of factors. Not making it down the line has an inverse relationship to feelings of success, but it isn't the only factor.

I've measured speed in the past to get an idea of the Reynolds number range that the fins are operating in, but not as a measure of a successful ride as such, although it was interesting for a while to see if I could reach a higher peak speed than during previous sessions.

Smiling's a social response, riding a wave isn't a social interaction, so not really. The feelings are more primeval, at least for me.