Large swell to end off the week

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)

Victorian Surf Forecast by Craig Brokensha (issued Wednesday 31st May)

Best Days: Today, keen surfers protected spots tomorrow morning, Friday, Saturday morning, Monday morning, Tuesday morning

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Large SW groundswell building tomorrow with pre-dawn, strong SW winds, shifting W/NW for a period in the AM on the Surf Coast
  • Large, easing S/SW groundswell Fri with N/NW tending N/NE winds
  • Smaller Sat with local, light N winds, tending SE into the PM
  • Moderate sized + S/SW groundswell filling in Sun, peaking through the middle of the day/early PM
  • Moderate E/NE tending E/SE winds Sun and Mon
  • Easing S/SW groundswell Mon
  • Smaller Tue with E/NE-NE tending E/SE winds

Recap

Yesterday provided more pumping surf with clean, easing sets from 4-5ft on the Surf Coast, 6ft+ to the east, while this morning there's a touch more north in the wind and smaller 3ft+ and 4-5ft waves respectively. Winds will hold out of the N/NW all day as the swell continues to ease.

Check out my review of the autumn just gone and why the Surf Coast is back in form: Autumn Review: Back In Black

This week and next (Jun 1 - 9)

The low point in swell will only be temporary today, with the next large swell due to fill in quickly tomorrow.

This is being generated by a great frontal progression that developed south of Western Australia yesterday, with rolling fetches of W/SW gales moving slowly through our south-western swell window, on top of each other.

The front will clip us early tomorrow morning, bringing a strong SW change before dawn, but we'll see winds tip around to the W/NW on the Surf Coast for a period before reverting back to the SW. With this conditions are likely to be lumpy and not perfect, especially compared to the recent run.

The swell will build rapidly and reach an easy 6ft through the afternoon on the Surf Coast, 8ft to the east, with Friday due to ease back from a similar size range.

Winds will improve rapidly ahead of a mid-latitude low moving in through the Bight, swinging light N/NW Friday morning and then N/NE into the afternoon. This should provide plenty of options for the experienced, with Saturday becoming more manageable, easing back steadily from 3ft+ on the Surf Coast and 4-5ft+ to the east.

Winds look favourable again and light, locally offshore from the N, tending SE and increasing later as a trough moves in.

This low will see winds continuing to feed in from the E/NE on Sunday morning, shifting E/SE through the day along with a new, moderate sized + long-period S/SW groundswell.

The source of this swell is a strong, tight polar low with a fetch of severe-gale W/SW winds due to move through our south-western and then southern swell windows tomorrow and Friday.

Strong 4-5ft sets are due on the Surf Coast, with 6ft to possibly 8ft waves to the east, possibly a little undersized at dawn but in my mid-late morning.

The swell will ease through Monday from 3ft and 4-5ft respectively with similar E/NE winds in the morning, E/SE through the afternoon.

Following this, next week looks slow as the mid-latitude low combined with a blocking high to its south, prevents any major swell generating systems from firing up towards us. Winds look to be favourable for exposed spots with winds out of the north-eastern quadrant along with small background pulses of groundswell. More on this in Friday's update.

Comments

PLStocks's picture
PLStocks's picture
PLStocks Wednesday, 31 May 2023 at 10:02am

Crowds have been way down last 2 days. Surfed Rincon this morning, clean 3ft, maybe bigger on the sets and 5 in the water. don't understand "surfed out" but sure welcome it

geek's picture
geek's picture
geek Wednesday, 31 May 2023 at 10:16am

Tradies need to get back to work at some point I guess haha. Yesterday morning was the same in WP, super fun/quiet where I was

dustys's picture
dustys's picture
dustys Wednesday, 31 May 2023 at 12:46pm

I surfed earlier, still plenty of blokes who were supposed to be at work... Including me...

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 31 May 2023 at 10:30am

You've never been surfed out?

IE surfed the bigger days before, put in a lot of physical effort and then rocking up to smaller, slower surf (which any other day of the week you'd jump at), but can't find the motivation.

It sometimes only takes a few days if you're getting a couple of sessions in a day to become more than content.

PLStocks's picture
PLStocks's picture
PLStocks Wednesday, 31 May 2023 at 11:52am

Content no doubt, but not enough to keep me out of the water. Not lucky enough to have 2 surfs a day, but have done 10 or 20 days straight plenty of times and never lose the motivation. must admit the mid size days like today are much more enjoyable tho. bigger days are always hard work, lots of paddling, getting smashed (Mon morning) and generally only getting 3 or 4 waves in the session

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 31 May 2023 at 11:58am

Ha, love it!

Bnkref's picture
Bnkref's picture
Bnkref Wednesday, 31 May 2023 at 12:23pm

What’s your surf count this year roughly Craig?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 31 May 2023 at 12:41pm

Jeez, at least 1 surf a day, with 2/day on the weekends, sometimes 3/day when pumping.

During summer time, 2 surfs if conditions were good late.

It's day 151 of the year so has to be around 250-300? Haha shit.

Bnkref's picture
Bnkref's picture
Bnkref Wednesday, 31 May 2023 at 1:12pm

Superb! Good man.

shlap's picture
shlap's picture
shlap Sunday, 4 Jun 2023 at 9:57pm

That’s epic. And yet you still manage to pump out so much info for your readers.

Ever consider keeping some sort of surf journal? I often get frustrated because I can’t recall basic details of a session from say only a week ago or a few days ago. Writing it down could make it stick.

That said, bloody fortunate position to be in.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 5 Jun 2023 at 7:48am

I actually started one in 2019 I think, was great to look back on, but half way through the year I went OS and stopped. Might start it up again.

Very fortunate and don't take it for granted.

Patrick0710's picture
Patrick0710's picture
Patrick0710 Wednesday, 31 May 2023 at 12:49pm

Can we have a tiny bit more size Tuesday and Wednesday please? Asking for a friend.

Thanking you in advance.

PLStocks's picture
PLStocks's picture
PLStocks Wednesday, 31 May 2023 at 1:38pm

holy shit any wonder you get surfed out

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 31 May 2023 at 5:19pm

Haha. True.

Mr.Tee on a long board's picture
Mr.Tee on a long board's picture
Mr.Tee on a lon... Wednesday, 31 May 2023 at 1:53pm

Friday looks good at W.P. . I will be there for a dawn session!

dbut's picture
dbut's picture
dbut Thursday, 1 Jun 2023 at 8:13pm

suprisingly bigger and more powerful today than sunday monday

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 1 Jun 2023 at 8:22pm

Not on the Surf Coast? IE Bells/Winki?

dbut's picture
dbut's picture
dbut Thursday, 1 Jun 2023 at 8:46pm

Yep surfcoast confirmed by a higher hsig and period average on sorrel. Sunday and monday was mellow the pictures make it look a lot bigger than it was because it was so groomed they appear to stand up more and that extra 2ft of lip at the top stays up rather than looking flatter on a day like today thats actually thicker ocean. Youd much rather take a bells set on the head from sunday arvo craigos than 6ft manly wompers.

dbut's picture
dbut's picture
dbut Thursday, 1 Jun 2023 at 8:50pm

point nepean today peaked at 7.5m @ 15.4 sec and sunday night peaked at 6.4m @18 seconds but based off sorrel today the average period was lower. So defs alot more push in it tonight and closer swell formation so pushing in a lot more

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 2 Jun 2023 at 6:43am

Agh, yeah so more consistent with the mix of swell energies.

Can see here on Sorell there are two defined peaks of energy with similar sizes.

It show's that today is a mix of mid-period and groundswell, with the groundswell being slightly stronger.

southernraw's picture
southernraw's picture
southernraw Friday, 2 Jun 2023 at 11:00am

the bulk of that lasts swells main size and energy came in the 12 hours of darkmess when no one could see it. Im guessing it would have been a fair bit larger before dropping back again Monday dawn?
Epic days regardless lucky buggers!

ruckus's picture
ruckus's picture
ruckus Friday, 2 Jun 2023 at 6:09am

Good numbers again today

Standingleft's picture
Standingleft's picture
Standingleft Friday, 2 Jun 2023 at 9:46am

Hey Craig, how's the 1m low tide today? Is that a regular occurrence? It seems like an extremely high low tide if that makes sense

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 2 Jun 2023 at 10:03am

If I had more time I could run the stats on how often it occurs this year, but yeah just part of the cycle at the moment.

Here's the chart for all of June, we'll see similar high, lows occurring into the end of the month..

southernraw's picture
southernraw's picture
southernraw Friday, 2 Jun 2023 at 10:03am

Phwoaaar!!
Looks insane! Again!!