Slow clean end to the week, large and clean next week

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)

Victoria Forecast by Craig Brokensha (issued Wednesday 27th April)

Best Days: Exposed breaks Thursday, Friday and Saturday, Surf Coast dawn and late Sunday, Tuesday afternoon onwards

Recap

A good new inconsistent SW groundswell offered clean 2ft waves on the Surf Coast and 3-4ft waves on the Mornington Peninsula ahead of a further kick into the afternoon with swell magnets on the Surf Coast seeing very inconsistent 3-4ft sets.

Today the swell has eased back to the 2ft range again on the sets across the Surf Coast, with 3-4ft waves on the Mornington Peninsula under N'ly winds.

This afternoon a new W/SW swell (now showing on the Cape Sorell buoy) is due to fill in with better 2ft+ sets due across the Surf Coast and 4-5ft sets on the Mornington Peninsula as winds hold from the N'th.

This week and weekend (Apr 28 – May 1)

This afternoon's increase in W/SW swell is expected to ease through tomorrow, but a burst of W/SW winds just to our west this morning as a front dips south-east should keep small 2ft sets hitting swell magnets across the Surf Coast tomorrow, with 3-4ft+ waves on the Mornington Peninsula.

Winds are a little funky but should be variable (likely offshore) before E/SE sea breezes kick in.

Friday will then be only really worth a surf east of Melbourne with fading 1-1.5ft sets on the Surf Coast and 3ft waves on the Mornington Peninsula with N'ly winds all day.

Into Saturday a small W/SW swell will stop the Surf Coast going flat, but not over 1ft+, with better 3ft+ waves on the Mornington Peninsula along with N-N/NW winds, favouring the western end of the peninsula over the east.

Our first and smallest pulse of W/SW groundswell in a series of stronger activity is due into Sunday across the state. This and a secondary pulse for Sunday will be generated by back to back frontal systems pushing up from the south-west of WA over the coming days, north-east through the Bight before drifting further west while breaking down through the weekend.

Two separate and similar sized W/SW groundswells are due, the first for Sunday coming in at 2-3ft across exposed breaks on the Surf Coast and 4-6ft on the Mornington Peninsula with the secondary pulse for later in the day and Monday morning seeing better 3ft+ and 5-6ft+ sets respectively.

Conditions at dawn Sunday are due to be clean on the Surf Coast and a fresh N/NW'ly, but a gusty W/SW change is due mid-morning, possibly tending back to the W/NW on dark as another front approaches.

Monday then looks great on the Surf Coast with a fresh NW'ly persisting all day.

Next week onwards (May 2 onwards)

Now, heading into next week we're expected to see a series of large W/SW groundswells impacting the state, all due to the Long Wave Trough.

Sunday and Monday's swells will be produced by fronts starting to fall under the influence of the LWT, but we'll see the strongest activity occurring through this weekend and early next week as the LWT stalls over the Bight.

An initial polar low will create an active sea state for a vast and expansive fetch of severe-gale to storm-force W/SW winds to move over, projecting up and across the Bight.

Now, this storm track isn't ideal for the Surf Coast with it producing swell with quite a westerly bias, resulting in quite a bit of size loss as it rounds Cape Otway.

Still in saying this, the size, length and vastness of the fetch should produce a large and powerful long-period W/SW groundswell, building strongly through Tuesday ahead of a peak through Wednesday.

The Surf Coast should build to the 6ft range into the afternoon Tuesday across exposed breaks before peaking Wednesday to 6-8ft (10ft bombs are more than likely at swell magnets, but check back Friday for an update on how it's developing). The Mornington Peninsula is due to see larger 8ft+ waves into Tuesday afternoon, peaking Wednesday to 10-12ft+.

With the LWT stalling over the Bight, winds are looking excellent for the Surf Coast with a strong but easing N/NW tending NW breeze Tuesday and then gusty NW tending W/NW winds Wednesday.

Into Thursday and Friday some better aligned reinforcing SW groundswell is due from a flurry of secondary activity as winds tend more N'ly Thursday and back to the NW Friday. More on this Friday though.

Comments

Victoriasurfing1's picture
Victoriasurfing1's picture
Victoriasurfing1 Wednesday, 27 Apr 2016 at 12:37pm

Craig,
If didn't have such a westerly bias how much bigger would be on the surf coast and if it had the perfect swell direction is this as big as it can possibly get on the surf coast or can we get bigger

Cheers

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 27 Apr 2016 at 12:38pm

Yeah it can get bigger, easily.

Stronger storm projecting up more from the south, but with that winds likely wouldn't be as good unless some front quickly raced in from the west.

Victoriasurfing1's picture
Victoriasurfing1's picture
Victoriasurfing1 Wednesday, 27 Apr 2016 at 12:44pm

Cheers for the quick reply
Any examples in past years nothing bigger than this swell happened last year did it must be pretty rare.

Thanks again Craig

Victoriasurfing1's picture
Victoriasurfing1's picture
Victoriasurfing1 Wednesday, 27 Apr 2016 at 12:46pm

Anyone including Craig have any stories of surfing Victoria particularly surf coast on a huge swell bigger than 6-8ft in previous year would love to here it must of been pretty cool rocking up and just seeing huge lines breaking out in the ocean
Share your stories

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 27 Apr 2016 at 12:53pm

There have been plenty, 6-8ft isn't that uncommon.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Wednesday, 27 Apr 2016 at 12:57pm

This topic was pretty well covered about a month ago. Maybe Bells comp swell comments?
Was more about 10+ swells to hit Bells.

stevearklay's picture
stevearklay's picture
stevearklay Wednesday, 27 Apr 2016 at 1:13pm
fraser-gordon's picture
fraser-gordon's picture
fraser-gordon Wednesday, 27 Apr 2016 at 1:06pm

Had a good mate surf Bell's 27/6/2008 on a 10ft board reckons in was Raucous.Check chart's for that swell perfect all round was pumping here as well 10ft+

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Wednesday, 27 Apr 2016 at 1:38pm

I did an overnight road trip down in 2008 with Clif. Here's what we woke to (apologies for the Kodak Brownie-quality shots). From memory we were riding a 7'10" and an 8fter, and the sets would've been in the 10 foot range. 'Twas a heap of fun.

kmcolour834.jpg

228.jpg

232.jpg

kmcolour835.jpg

pigdog's picture
pigdog's picture
pigdog Wednesday, 27 Apr 2016 at 9:29pm

You would want to time the paddle out good! And have a fresh legrope! That second photo! What a smoking set!

Victoriasurfing1's picture
Victoriasurfing1's picture
Victoriasurfing1 Wednesday, 27 Apr 2016 at 1:53pm

That is sick cheers for the stories and the photos, photos look awesome if anyone else has any photos would be cool to see them. Biggest I have seen bells and winki with my own eyes is at 6 ft so when you hear and see photos of it bigger would be quite a spectacle any big wipeouts stu? Or others u am guessing the hold downs would of been long

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Wednesday, 27 Apr 2016 at 2:00pm

Nah, not really. I remember blowing the first drop, which was just a matter of being out of tune with a longer board and paddling into a wave with lots of trough. A timing issue. Easily rectified.

We had a session there then continued down to the wave that mustn't be named (had a few big boards with us) but the wind switched not long before we got there. Felt more relief than frustration as it was pretty damn big.

Had an arvo session back at Bells then slept for a long time.

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Wednesday, 27 Apr 2016 at 2:25pm

Jeez Stu the no namer would of been 20ft

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 27 Apr 2016 at 2:26pm

Haha yeah, don't think I would of driven away from that large surf in search of something bigger :/

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Wednesday, 27 Apr 2016 at 2:29pm

Yeah it was big, real big, so it was nice having an excuse not to paddle out.

superfish's picture
superfish's picture
superfish Wednesday, 27 Apr 2016 at 3:40pm

Many guys paddling when it gets that solid ? Usually only see the skis amongst it ......

Gary G's picture
Gary G's picture
Gary G Wednesday, 27 Apr 2016 at 3:41pm

The only thing better than 3 Garys, is 6 garys.

Gary G's picture
Gary G's picture
Gary G Wednesday, 27 Apr 2016 at 2:09pm

Nicely groomed triple Gary swell there, Stu.
Even with your photographic skills it's impossible to hide the rippled beauty radiated by three Garys.

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Wednesday, 27 Apr 2016 at 6:37pm

Great pics. Hey Craig, if this LWT is going to set up off Vic next week, what does it do to NSW in this pattern? Does NSW see lots of south swells as fronts come over this way? Do we see ECLs spooling up, or does the LWT have to be in the Tasman for this? Cheers.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 27 Apr 2016 at 8:34pm

With the LWT positioned as it is, it's useless in regards to south swell for us.

Fronts are directed south-east across Tassie which isn't useful for generating swell.

However if we have a blocking ridge setup to the east, as is currently happening we get decent easterly swell and that's what we're currently seeing.

caml's picture
caml's picture
caml Thursday, 28 Apr 2016 at 11:03pm

Xxl size waves hey ?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 29 Apr 2016 at 8:05am

Yep for sure, exposed breaks.