Enough swell sources to stay busy this week with swells easing into the weekend

Steve Shearer picture
Steve Shearer (freeride76)

Sydney Hunter Illawarra Surf Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Mon 30th Oct)

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Fun E swell Mon, with an a’noon rebuild as new pulse fills in
  • Early offshore winds Tues with an a’noon S’ly change- winds tending fresh S/SE in the a'noon
  • Strong E'ly groundswell pulse tomorrow, peaking through the day
  • Light S-SE winds Wed with a morning peak in E swell, plenty of mid period S swell on offer
  • Easing swells Thurs, mostly from the S with a light/lingering S’ly flow
  • Light winds Fri with small leftovers for the beachies
  • Small mixed bag Sat
  • Bigger NE windswell Sun
  • Looks quiet next week, likely small NE windswell 

Recap

Plenty of solid, good/great waves over the weekend with Sat seeing 3-4ft surf from the S/SE, bigger 4-6ft on the Hunter and lower MNC with clean morning conditions. Bigger on Sun with solid 6ft sets on the Hunter- a notch smaller elsewhere- with a clean morning under W-N/W winds before nor-easters kicked up. Today is seeing another really fun day with more E’ly quadrant swell in the 3ft range, bigger 4ft on the Hunter. Clean morning conditions with NW winds although the N’ly wind got up quickly across the Sydney basin. All in all, a very tidy swell event for the end of October.

Strong lines on the Hunter over the weekend

This week (Oct 30- Nov 3)

The Tasman low of sub-tropical origins which has sprayed the East Coast with swell is now just north of the North Island, with some swell generating winds still active to the west of the North Island, although quite limited in length. It’s deepened and is hammering the North Island. Weak high pressure in the Tasman is directing a N’ly flow across most of the East Coast, with a trough and front bringing a S’ly change and  tomorrow, reaching the sub-tropics on Wed. Along with residual E/SE swell from the low near the North Island we’ll see a mixed bag of S swell trains from mid week with a general easing trend into the weekend. 

In the short run we’ll see winds shift NW/SW in a variable troughy flow tomorrow morning (should be offshore at most places early) before a front brings a stiff S’ly wind likely just after lunch. A strong new pulse of E swell is due through the morning from an intensification of the low as it approached the North Island. That should arrive mid a’noon, but you’ll have to work around strong S’ly tending S/SE winds. Sets to 4-5ft+, are on offer if you can get out of the wind. 

S’ly winds Wed, with just a brief window of SW winds north of the Harbour before winds clock around S/SE-SE, although they’ll be easing during the day. Tuesdays E’ly pulse will still be offering some 3-4ft surf under an easing trend with a more dominant S swell regime to 3-5ft, bigger 4-6ft on the Hunter offering plenty of messy size at S exposed breaks. That S swell spike will be showing signs of easing late in the day. 

Nice little mixed bag of swells Thurs, with a light/lingering S’ly flow on offer. We should see a fairly widespread SW breeze inshore for the morning before winds clock around light S-SE through the day. Residual E’ly swells will still be throwing up the occ. 2-3ft wave, with easing S swells and some long period S wrapping in from the deep parent low. All told, S facing beaches won’t be under 3ft, 4ft on the Hunter but quality will still be a little mixed under the S’ly flow.

The easing trend continues into Fri with small leftover swells from the S and E in the 2ft range, dropping through the day. Conditions should be clean early under light land breezes before winds tend to light seabreezes. There’ll be a grovel on offer.

This weekend (Oct 28-29)

Not much swell energy expected this weekend. Just a small blend of swells for Sat under a NE flow, likely best for s grovel early under light NW winds. We may see some small NE windswell get generated in the a’noon.

Better odds for a surfable NE windswell on Sun under a similar mod/fresh N-N/NE flow. Keep expectations low but we may see some 2-3ft NE windswell by Sun a’noon. One caveat is EC suggesting a small trough may form off the NSW Hunter coast Sun, with a larger NE swell possible, even tending more E’ly depending on the infeed into the trough. There’s poor run to run consistency and GFS is not interested so we’ll flag it for now and see how it looks on Wed. 

Next week (Oct 30 onwards)

Looks like a fairly quiet and more typical Spring week ahead next week. Unless that little trough of low pressure EC is interested in winds up, we’re mostly looking at high pressure in the Tasman and NE winds, with some small NE winds swell on the menu for at least the first half of next week.

A zonal storm track under the continent may send up a few traces of S swell wrap but anything arriving looks to be negligible.

Just for the record the area around the Solomon Islands is still showing signs of convective activity so we’ll keep an eye on that for ny signs of developing tropical depressions or even another TC although the odds would be extremely low. 

Check back Wed and we’ll see how it’s looking. 

 

Comments

sean killen's picture
sean killen's picture
sean killen Monday, 30 Oct 2023 at 4:46pm

Scored some chunky lefts this morning at my loca( 5 months) ..recent swells finally shaped some nice banks again..

conrico's picture
conrico's picture
conrico Monday, 30 Oct 2023 at 8:06pm

Alway wondered, does October get same swell as March? Both 2 months from mid winter. Very autumn like S and E swell mix recently…

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 30 Oct 2023 at 8:30pm

May I suggest my seasonal reversal article for a perusal Conrico.

conrico's picture
conrico's picture
conrico Wednesday, 1 Nov 2023 at 1:48pm

For sure thanks! could you add the link can't find it

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Monday, 30 Oct 2023 at 8:19pm

Pretty special arvo around these parts. Not huge but just friggen lovely conditions. Took a walk as the wind swung, got an elevated view, and every corner was doing it.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 31 Oct 2023 at 8:45am

The swell is maxing at Manly, well more specifically from North Steyne to South Steyne. It's picked up from 4-5ft to 6ft and now 8ft. All the while Queensy looks a much more manageable 4ft.

If this guy drove through this barrel, it would have been the best I've seen made at Manly..

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 31 Oct 2023 at 8:55am

Fwoar! Puerto Mantown.

Dunno why old mate is crouching.. that barrel is so big, he could be standing tall and skimming his hand along the roof!

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 31 Oct 2023 at 9:02am

Shitting himself!

Replay is down the beach on the Manly camera, 7:16:15s

Travelled a bit in it!

Pedro1212's picture
Pedro1212's picture
Pedro1212 Tuesday, 31 Oct 2023 at 11:53am

Muscle memory kicks in for us Manly locals.

john_c's picture
john_c's picture
john_c Tuesday, 31 Oct 2023 at 9:25am

Insane at my local point on the NB this morning, 15 Sec + east swell made for some super gnarly barrels!

sean killen's picture
sean killen's picture
sean killen Tuesday, 31 Oct 2023 at 10:45am

Only 4ft this morning early it’s absolutely bombing now 6ft+ best waves in 6 years

Sanga's picture
Sanga's picture
Sanga Tuesday, 31 Oct 2023 at 11:29am

Pumping!

Rabbits68's picture
Rabbits68's picture
Rabbits68 Tuesday, 31 Oct 2023 at 11:49am

Shark Island cam 11:40:30
Solid set - lid gets a bomb.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Tuesday, 31 Oct 2023 at 12:00pm

Sick one!!
Mostly rubbish non-event SC, painful to watch the cams down south haha.
How's the Manly wash-through 10:59 (11:59).

Rabbits68's picture
Rabbits68's picture
Rabbits68 Tuesday, 31 Oct 2023 at 1:04pm

Out the back! Incredible…

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Tuesday, 31 Oct 2023 at 12:15pm

Crazy things going on.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 31 Oct 2023 at 2:36pm

North Steyne looked like 3rd reef Pipe! Without the inside left barrels though,

Glennmc's picture
Glennmc's picture
Glennmc Tuesday, 31 Oct 2023 at 5:39pm

Genuine question. How can the forecast section show 1-2ft then it maxes at 8ft-12ft per the the report? Always read forecaster notes anyway, but planning to have one of those “not feeling well boss” days makes it tricky, especially if some travel is required. Granted no way in hell I would have been out there today, but still curious

tylerdurden's picture
tylerdurden's picture
tylerdurden Tuesday, 31 Oct 2023 at 9:24pm

I don’t subscribe here so therefore don’t get the detailed forecast notes. I’m guessing the answer from Swellnet will be “read the forecast notes, it’s all in there”.
Maybe it was in there Glen and you missed it?
But in terms of the predicted size from the forecast algorithm, 1.1m 12.4sec east swell as predicted on the forecast page (midday Tuesday) obviously is a massive underestimation and therefore represents a problem with the algorithm. I’ll give credit where credit is due and say the algorithm is often pretty accurate save for a few examples that I’ve noted over the years when it has been clearly waaay off the mark. Today I’d say it was more like 3m, maybe 13s and even fraction north of east given Queenscliff was smaller than the south end.
No algorithm is perfect but occasionally Swellnet’s is way off.
Best bet is to go for the often underestimated option of eyeballing the surf in person. Doesn’t work for everyone but if you’re flexible it’s the only real way.
Some of my best sessions over the last 25 years here in Manly have been when the surf has been predicted to be small and unexpectedly is bigger and better, the crowd relying on the forecast stay away.
Having said that, although I worked this morning I probably would’nt have gone out today, maybe right at the Queenscliff end perhaps

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 1 Nov 2023 at 6:13am

Yeah the models totally missed this swell, both size and period. All did though, not just Swellnet. And the BOM also missed it as well, they had 1-1.5m. They also issue Dangerous Surf Warnings at the drop of a hat but none yesterday.

Updated version that's running in the backend performed better but still only forecast 4-5ft for this event. Looks like ASCAT missed the peak of the low as well for verification.

jasonacollins's picture
jasonacollins's picture
jasonacollins Tuesday, 31 Oct 2023 at 9:33pm

I was going to ask the same question! It seems a common theme recently - the forecast section showing much less swell than is stated in the forecast notes (and the forecast notes being much more accurate). e.g. Wollongong has 1-2ft for today, with 2ft for North facing, increasing to 3ft for South facing by the end of the day.

john_c's picture
john_c's picture
john_c Wednesday, 1 Nov 2023 at 8:57am

Wind guru was calling 1.8 meter 14 second period east swell for days. That equates to solid gnarly barrels at my local - although it did come in over that . It's based off GFS data like most of these forecasts seem to be, it seems the interpretation might be out sometimes.

tylerdurden's picture
tylerdurden's picture
tylerdurden Wednesday, 1 Nov 2023 at 9:47am

Agree John. Windguru as of yesterday afternoon was reading it at 2.3m 13s while Swellnet’s was still 1.1 at 12.4.
Not sure what Windguru said on Monday though.
I generally found the old Magicseaweed to be pretty good for period and direction although bad for estimating near shore wave heights.

Craig would know better than me but it seems east swells have more punch than south swells of equivalent size and period. Maybe it’s just that east swells hit everywhere and south are obviously selective.
As a general rule, I think a 1.5-2m east swell with 12s period will be pumping, an equivalent south swell (even at south facing beaches) will be manageable. Just my anecdotal experience, no science behind my opinion

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Tuesday, 31 Oct 2023 at 7:37pm

Today's pagan festival:

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Tuesday, 31 Oct 2023 at 9:03pm

Shots. Smokin'.

Pops's picture
Pops's picture
Pops Wednesday, 1 Nov 2023 at 10:12am

I've been staring at that first shot for 20 minutes now. That's the perfect wave.

Why did yesterday have to be a deadline day!

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 31 Oct 2023 at 7:48pm

Incredible!

dannyz's picture
dannyz's picture
dannyz Tuesday, 31 Oct 2023 at 9:34pm

this one really snuck under everyone’s radars.. didn’t see anyone or any robot predicting 8-10ft bombs everywhere!

Panman's picture
Panman's picture
Panman Wednesday, 1 Nov 2023 at 6:23am

Lucky we weren’t under one of those smokers Stu we would’ve lost more than our wetsuit

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Wednesday, 1 Nov 2023 at 7:02am

Ha ha...gone!

Never had that happen before.

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Wednesday, 1 Nov 2023 at 7:02am

Jeez stu you wont be popular down 'there' posting those shots

Wong's picture
Wong's picture
Wong Wednesday, 1 Nov 2023 at 8:03am

It's the east coast of Australia, Stu's photos will have little affect on the place when you can assume points all over the place would of been lighting up yesterday.