Solid south swell on the way for Sydney

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

Sydney, Hunter and Illawarra Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 30th April)

Best DaysThurs: fun south swell with good winds, mainly after lunch. Sun/Mon/Tues: solid south swell.

Recap: Small leftover surf on Tuesday (the Mon/Tues S/SE pulse never really amounted to much in Sydney, unfortunately), with tiny conditions this morning. A southerly change is advancing along the southern NSW coast and should reach Sydney in the next few hours.

This week (May 1-2)

Feels kinda nice to start the forecast with a clean slate today, rather than having lingering, questionable south swells on the radar like we did on Monday. With hardly any motion in the ocean today it’ll be much easier to monitor the incoming signals over the coming days.

A cold front is pushing up the coast right now and it’ll generate a short range south swell for Thursday. This swell won’t be overly special, favouring south facing beaches with the most size (models seem pretty close with around 3-4ft or so, smaller elsewhere), however it looks like the early session may be marred by a lingering southerly wobble on the surface. 

However winds should be SW in some regions at dawn (i.e. Northern Beaches, less likely in the Hunter and Cronulla though) and will tend variable through the middle of the day before swinging NE in the late afternoon as a small high develops across the region.

As such, the best surf will probably occur through the middle of the day - no need for an early dash if you have the flexibility. 

A slight easing trend will happen through the afternoon, ahead of a more accelerated decrease in size through Friday as gusty W/NW winds envelop the region (there’s a chance for a brief window of N’ly winds ahead of the change, but it’ll be an hour or two at best from dawn, if it happens at all). So aim for the swell magnets on Friday and keep your expectations low.

This weekend (May 3-4)

Oooh yeah, we’ve got a complex weekend for surfers and weather watchers alike. A developing low off the South Coast on Saturday morning - just east of Batemans Bay, according to the latest model guidance - will initially strengthen W/NW winds about the Sydney and Hunter regions, with more SW winds south of Wollongong and S/SW in the Far South. 

A secondary low developing east of Tasmania at the same time is also a noteworthy addition, as it’ll develop an extra source of southerly swell for the region (although with a later arrival time).

But back to the primary low off the South Coast. At the moment, it’s a really tough call to make regarding NSW's surf prospects because the low is expected to initially remain very close to the mainland. So, the swell generating potential is likely to be positioned within a small, narrow strip immediately off the coast. Furthermore, the present timing of the low’s development suggests we won’t see an appreciable kick in new swell - at least in the Sydney/Hunter regions - until well after dark on Saturday. 

So apart from a building local windswell across the Far South and South Coasts on Saturday, it looks like the main surf regions of the Sydney, Hunter and Illawarra will be tiny with gusty offshores. But, I’ll revise these timings on Friday as there’ll be a lot more confidence by then.

Sunday is where we’ll probably see all of the action from this low, and although it’s difficult to be very confident on both the size and the timing (due to the low’s expected close proximity to the mainland), I think we’re on track for a solid, punchy south swell in the 4-6ft range at south facing beaches (maybe a few bigger bombs in the Hunter region). If you had to hedge your bets on when we’d see the most size, it’s likely to be later in the day rather than earlier.

Winds are expected to remain W/SW across the Sydney and Hunter coasts but they’ll probably veer SW and then S/SW with increasing southerly latitude - so this, along with the swell’s acute southerly direction, will limit the surf potential in the south of the state on Sunday.

Let’s check back on Friday to see how the models are handling this low - there’s even a chance for an upgrade with Sunday’s size.

Longer term (May 5 onwards)

The weekend’s low looks like it’s going to move slowly SE, to be located in the central/southern Tasman by Monday. This suggests a continuation of heavy southerly swells for southern NSW through Monday and Tuesday, possibly of a similar size seen by late Sunday. Winds should also remain favourably offshore too thanks to yet another approaching mid-latitude low from the west.

This next low also looks to be a swell producer for southern NSW, probably some time later Wednesday or Thursday once its cleared east of Tasmania. So the second half of next week is certainly looking very active with plenty of south swell on the cards. More on this in Friday’s updated forecast notes.

Comments

erikb's picture
erikb's picture
erikb Wednesday, 30 Apr 2014 at 6:03pm

Hi there! Been using your site for a few years now and love the addition of the forecast notes. Just thought i'd put to your attention that the tabs are not wired correctly at the moment. If i hit 'forecast notes' then ' surf report' it takes me to the news section (looks like old news too)....

Edit: Looks like problem is solved :)

Froth Dog's picture
Froth Dog's picture
Froth Dog Wednesday, 30 Apr 2014 at 8:20pm

Agreed - cracking addition to the site!! Love reading through the notes and commentary on the models etc. Let's hope that this S swell is as solid as it currently looks to be and that W wind gives us barrels of our lives. Yewwwww

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 30 Apr 2014 at 8:48pm

Thanks guys. But.. yo do realise that these forecast notes have been produced three times a week for the last eleven years? They have been a little hard to find since we relaunched the site last October but Craig and I have been punching them out diligently.

Froth Dog's picture
Froth Dog's picture
Froth Dog Wednesday, 30 Apr 2014 at 9:21pm

Yeah - read them religiously! Look forward to continuing to do so. Love your work

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 30 Apr 2014 at 9:29pm

Ah cool.. Was just a little concerned that some of you thought this was a 'new feature' to the Swellnet website! 

bigkiwisi's picture
bigkiwisi's picture
bigkiwisi Wednesday, 30 Apr 2014 at 9:30pm

I'm with Froth Dog, love your guys work on these forecasts. The ocean is a tricky beast and you guys give it a red hot go at calling it!! Mostly on the mark too and I cant wait to read your notes 3 times a week so as to plan my water time. Keep it up lads!

NB's picture
NB's picture
NB Thursday, 1 May 2014 at 12:06am

Unfortunately thermalben, I'm sure people missed the notes completly whilst they were hid in the forum section. For a long period, I could only find the notes when links were posted in the reports section. New tab will help navigate but still could be improved. Love the section, devoted reader.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 1 May 2014 at 9:34am

Yeah I know it was hard to find - this will be much easier for everyone. We'll also feed in some of this info (ie when it's updated) into the surf report page - the idea is that each report location page will be your one-stop-shop for everything.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 1 May 2014 at 9:35am

And we know there's still a lot of room for improvement too, but we're getting there. Slowly as it is!

erikb's picture
erikb's picture
erikb Thursday, 1 May 2014 at 11:22am

yeah same here

Jack_Gallen's picture
Jack_Gallen's picture
Jack_Gallen Thursday, 1 May 2014 at 9:31am

Yer they are so much easier to find now. Cant wait for this south swell though should b awesome

Berries's picture
Berries's picture
Berries Thursday, 1 May 2014 at 12:48pm

Hi, is the wind still a chance to swing NE today? The only beach getting the south swell is offshore in a NE wind. Keen if it turns

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 1 May 2014 at 12:54pm

Not sure where you are Berries (the southern half of NSW is a big place!) but we should see a light to moderate nor'easter across most regions by mid-late a'noon.

Currently most locations between the Gong/Sydney/Hunter are well under 10kts (ie tending variable) so conditions are on the improve. However the Northern Beaches was quite clean this morning with overnight and early W'ly winds. 

Berries's picture
Berries's picture
Berries Thursday, 1 May 2014 at 1:05pm

Near Stockton couple of reefs/beaches which are offshore in the NE ( summer saviour) Side shore on a westerly though, was picking up the bigger sets 3ft+ but the other beaches were barely 1-2ft albeit extremely clean

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 1 May 2014 at 1:07pm

Winds are now S'ly at Nobbys (and still under 10kts).. the nor'easter is probably still a few hours away.

mick-free's picture
mick-free's picture
mick-free Thursday, 1 May 2014 at 1:31pm

just checked curly 5mins ago still 2 foot onshore southerly.....mmm a little more energy though in water. Better earlier

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 1 May 2014 at 2:47pm

2ft?? Was 3ft this morning with the odd 4ft bomb. Only problem was the fast filling tide. Make the most of it, looks like I'll be hitting the greens instead of the ocean for most of the coming weekend.

mick-free's picture
mick-free's picture
mick-free Thursday, 1 May 2014 at 2:55pm

haha 4 foot, you need to go back to SA and get some real 4 footers

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 1 May 2014 at 3:01pm

Was easy 2ft overhead on one set I took. so don't worry about my size calls haha. Stop checking the surf on high tide!

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 1 May 2014 at 3:24pm

Perhaps you're very short Craig!!! ;)

surfing-cronulla's picture
surfing-cronulla's picture
surfing-cronulla Thursday, 1 May 2014 at 3:30pm

South facing 8am some 3ft+ sets grading bigger at Wanda. Alley high tide caused outer bank to virtually stop bumping it up and running fast on inside rights. So yes pretty accurate report and glad I looked and had a fairly uncrowded fun wave.

Berries's picture
Berries's picture
Berries Thursday, 1 May 2014 at 8:46pm

Thought I would check back in. Southerly stopped at 4, turned offshore or no wind at all. Great surf at the reef after all that waiting :)

the-u-turn's picture
the-u-turn's picture
the-u-turn Friday, 2 May 2014 at 12:15pm

Bravo Ben. Reading this from Curacao (yes, I didn't know where it was either a month ago). Landing home Monday night and appreciate the heads up on which direction the VW get's pointed. Many Thanks.

...on a side note I'll be back home Mothers Day weekend, would appreciate a glassy little swell on the mid if you could manage it please.