Small workable E swells early next week with an uncertain outlook depending on low pressure development in Tasman

Steve Shearer picture
Steve Shearer (freeride76)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Fri Jan 10th)

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Small, just-rideable surf becoming established over the weekend with light winds, tending more E/SE-SE in SEQLD, E/NE-NE in NENSW
  • Small increase in E’ly swells likely from Tues, holding into Wed/Thurs as small low forms off SEQLD and moves southwards
  • Possible spike in S swell later Fri into Sat (NENSW only)
  • Small, building E/SE swell on the cards for Sun/Mon depending on movement of low
  • Very dynamic outlook with poor model agreement so check back Mon for latest updates

Recap

Small, clean S swells yesterday topped out around 3ft at S facing beaches in NENSW, 2-3ft in SEQLD (D-Bah mostly) with early light winds and clean conditions giving way to NE breezes and storms. Still the odd 3ft set in NENSW today with SEQLD dropping below 2ft (most beaches 1-2ft) under light winds tending NE.

Still an easy run out the Bar but a few rideable waves on hand

This weekend (Jan 11-12)

 No great change to the weekend f/cast. High pressure drifting towards New Zealand and a broad inland low maintain a mod E-NE flow across most of the Eastern Seaboard. 

The current SE-E/SE swell fades out with small E-E/NE swells hanging in there to 2ft through Sat. 

Not much difference to conditions or surf size on Sun. Compared to expectations on Wed we should see winds stay a little lighter through Sun with early light breezes tending to mod a’noon NE breezes. We may see winds shift a little SE-E/SE across SEQLD on Sun in response to a trough line. Stay tuned to your local wind obs.

Nothing amazing but there should be a small, surfable wave on hand. 

Next week (Jan 13 onwards)

Weak high pressure in the Tasman with a very unstable air mass drifting eastwards over the continent. We should see a couple of days of light winds with weak E-NE breezes in NENSW, tending S-SE in SEQLD and small E/NE windswells to 1-2ft through Mon and Tues.

During this time, models are suggesting a small trough of low pressure will bud off the inland low and drift into the Coral Sea off the SEQLD Coast, which enhances the SE flow through SEQLD, extending down into NENSW by Tues, although winds will remain E/NE-NE south of Coffs.

Initially the localised fetch will benefit the sub-tropics with a useful increase in E  swell from Tues into Thurs. Nothing major but we should see 2 occ. 3ft surf develop through this time frame.

From there, outcomes become prone to very large error bars. The crux of it is the fate of the inland trough of low pressure as it approaches the Tasman. 

GFS suggests the inland trough moves Northwards, with a trough spawning a small low east of Tasmania and rapidly deepens o/night into Fri with strong winds to gales developing off the south coast and Bass Strait (see below). Under this scenario we would expect a small spike in new S swell later Fri into Sat constrained by swell shadowing from the Hunter Curve, up into the 3-4ft range at S facing beaches in NENSW. The low then washes out and becomes absorbed into the general trough of low pressure hovering in the inland. Local S swells rapidly ease into the weekend, then rebuild as an E’ly infeed into the low extends out towards the North Island through the Tasman. This would see a new E/SE swell fill in through later Sun into Mon.

More low pressure then potentially forms off the QLD coast and in the lower Tasman later in the week. 

The EC prognosis is for a low off the Far South Coast to stall next to the coast with no real S’ly flow expected and a minor NE infeed initially, drawing out into the Tasman over the weekend and generating useful E/NE swells. 

With poor run to run and model to model consistency confidence is very low on outcomes. Check back Mon and keep fingers crossed one of the more surf-filled outcomes is still a live possibility.

Until then, have a great weekend!

Comments

NickT's picture
NickT's picture
NickT Friday, 10 Jan 2025 at 2:52pm

Looks like it's a hard gig forecasting anything further out than 5 -7 days right now. Super unstable, changing patterns. At least it's not flat, I have been getting small fun waves on the GC lately, almost flat on high tide but when it drops there have been some fun little rip bowl banks to surf

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 10 Jan 2025 at 3:44pm

Gonna be a tough gig with the big highs at dawn over the weekend and small weak windswells on offer.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 10 Jan 2025 at 3:55pm

Need a good shorey bank.

burleigh's picture
burleigh's picture
burleigh Friday, 10 Jan 2025 at 5:24pm

Burleigh single fin weekend too. The beers will still be flowing

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Friday, 10 Jan 2025 at 5:44pm

Always a hoax for waves. The red-shirts won't care though

Distracted's picture
Distracted's picture
Distracted Saturday, 11 Jan 2025 at 7:38am

BOM is calling the current weather system a “black nor’easter”, doesn’t look like it has the swell potential of previous black nor’easter events.
I hadn’t realised the name came from black clouds out at sea, would have thought rain clouds at sea was pretty standard for the east coast.
https://www.abc.net.au/news/2025-01-11/wild-weekend-weather-australia-ra...

Ardy's picture
Ardy's picture
Ardy Saturday, 11 Jan 2025 at 9:03am

I’m on sunny coast, storm Thursday late arvo 55 ml in gauge in about an half an hour then that massive cloud band last night sweet f / all

monkeyboy's picture
monkeyboy's picture
monkeyboy Saturday, 11 Jan 2025 at 10:49am

Big waterspout out to sea this morning off Sunrise beach ! Never seen one of those up here before.

bbbird's picture
bbbird's picture
bbbird Sunday, 12 Jan 2025 at 8:46am

There is a 1000km+ cloudband off the east coast this morning, from Stradbroke Island Qld to Batemans Bay NSW.
https://www.weatherzone.com.au/radar/qld/brisbane

Mata's picture
Mata's picture
Mata Saturday, 11 Jan 2025 at 11:13am

Watching these forecast models change & bounce around so much at the moment is wild to watch

kaybeegee's picture
kaybeegee's picture
kaybeegee Saturday, 11 Jan 2025 at 8:53pm

Waves well above 1-2ft on the mid north coast mid Morning today. More like solid 3’s

Very welcome.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 12:57pm

Assuming that was that long period S/SE groundswell from the low around Macquarie Island earlier (Tuesday ish) in the week.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 12 Jan 2025 at 8:02am

Latest model runs looking very, very juicy.

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Sunday, 12 Jan 2025 at 12:48pm

Yep saw that! Hopefully we get some nice winds to go along with it.

bbbird's picture
bbbird's picture
bbbird Sunday, 12 Jan 2025 at 9:30am

Next Wed-Thursday, one model show a northerly flow 4000km+ from New Caledonia south past Maquarrie Island.
https://metvuw.com/forecast/forecast.php?type=rain&region=swp&noofdays=7

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 12 Jan 2025 at 1:48pm

If current maps hold true, it'll be busting out the 7'6"'s by the weekend.

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 8:34am

Gee i hope the models change up a bit for the end of the week. A 5m south swell destroying any existing sand on the beachies and sticking all the wave starved surfers in the bay. Better than nothing i guess, maybe it've mobilise some of the sand

cam.jw's picture
cam.jw's picture
cam.jw Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 9:11am

any chance of this system transitioning into an e/se swell as it moves towards NZ? I'm asking on behalf of the sunny coast.

waxyfeet's picture
waxyfeet's picture
waxyfeet Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 10:12am

On behalf of the Sunny Coast, I second this hope.

geoffrobertford's picture
geoffrobertford's picture
geoffrobertford Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 12:38pm

third!

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 1:02pm

Looking at the charts there's a good tail on this low pressure system extending well out into the Tasman and over to the west coast of NZ, so there should definitely be some SE swell in the mix, but not likely until later in the week/weekend. SC still probably a little too far north to be the greatest benefactor, but should still be some swell with the "E" in it.

cam.jw's picture
cam.jw's picture
cam.jw Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 2:46pm

god i hope so. this is grim.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 9:16am

For what it's worth, EC's AI weather model, AIFS has nailed this system since last week, going for a low forming in the southern/central Tasman Sea.

When GFS was showing NE-E winds and large, stormy swell, AIFS was holding with the southerly flow.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 12:58pm

Interesting. Is this model output publicly available Craig?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 1:53pm
donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 2:17pm

Thank you.

dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 10:32am

Hoping for the outcome with the least amount of south sweep!

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 12:58pm

Head to the SC then!!!!

dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 2:33pm

These big tides are slowly filling in the gutters. Looking like it will be short lived.

dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope Monday, 13 Jan 2025 at 2:33pm

.