Not a great outlook, though the swell magnets should remain workable

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 23rd July)

SE Qld Forecast Summary (tl;dr)

  • Small N'ly swell Sat, otherwise tiny this weekend
  • Minor S'ly swell at exposed northern ends and south swell magnets later Mon/Tues
  • Small distant E'ly swells next weekend onwards

Northern NSW Forecast Summary (tl;dr)

  • Small S'ly swells this weekend, and a minor N'ly swell Sat (mainly in the north)
  • Small distant E'ly swell building Sat/Sun
  • Flukey S'ly swells for the swell magnets Mon/Tues
  • Small distant E'ly swells next weekend onwards

Recap

Thursday’s S’ly swell offered occasional 5-6ft sets at south facing beaches south of the border, but wave heights were much smaller elsewhere, and SE Qld came in slightly below forecast expectations: a slow 2ft at the outer points, bigger at exposed northern ends. Conditions were clean in general with mainly offshore winds. We’ve seen smaller surf today (easing from 3-4ft south facing beaches south of Byron) with tiny conditions in SE Qld, and light NW winds tending moderate N’ly throughout. Coupla nice thunderstorms kicking off along the Tweed Coast as I finish these notes too!

This weekend (July 24 - 25)

Not much to look forward to this weekend.

A developing N/NW flow off the SE Qld coast at the moment should kick up some small N’ly windswell for Saturday morning, but only at a few spots across the southern Gold Coast and maybe Tweed Coasts - the other regions are too sheltered or poorly aligned for this kind of local fetch.

Most beaches will only see slow 1ft, maybe 2ft waves from this source but some of the regional swell magnets could see an early 2ft+ set or so, and with winds veering NW through Saturday morning there’s a chance for a few little peaks for the grommets.

But.. we’re talking about slow, weak N’ly windswells. It’s really not worth worrying about.

Elsewhere, south of the border should continue to see small, slow S’ly swells from a series of poorly aligned fronts and lows below Tasmania a few days ago. Southern NSW picked up 2-3ft sets today and this trend will persist across Northern NSW on Saturday, but it’ll be extremely inconsistent and limited to a handful of reliable south swell magnets south of Byron. Elsewhere, expect tiny to flat conditions.

Conditions will however be clean with freshening NW tending W’ly winds.

On Sunday, a vigorous frontal passage across the south-eastern corner of the country will strengthen westerly winds, they’ll push upwards of gale force strength across the Mid North Coast (a little lighter further north) but with only small residual southerly swells across Northern NSW’s south swell magnets, there won’t be many options to surf. 

The only other swell worth mentioning for the weekend is a small E’ly swell generated last weekend way out near Tahiti by a large, slow moving high pressure system. Ordinarily these kinds of systems aren’t worth looking at, but in the absence of any major swell this weekend it may just keep open beaches rideable for the grommets with inconsistent 1-2ft sets. 

On the balance, keep your expectations very low this weekend.

Next week (July 26 onwards)

Once again, the weekend's strong frontal progression will be detached from polar latitudes, so we’re looking at another spell of small conditions interspersed with flukey south swells.

W/SW gales exiting extending off the Southern NSW coast on Sunday (see below) are aimed well and truly outside of our swell window, but sometimes - if there’s just a smidge of south in the fetch alignment - we can see an unusual spread of S’ly swell back up into some exposed parts of Northern NSW. On rare occasions, this can even push north of the border.

As such, keep your expectations low for Monday but it’ll be worth monitoring your favourite south swell magnet for signs of a flukey south swell that could push 2-3ft at times (tiny elsewhere, especially SE Qld). It’s a very low confidence event but rideable waves can’t be ruled out, and conditions will be clean with generally light winds. 

On Tuesday we’ve got a similar chance for a small flukey south swell, originated from a secondary fetch of W/SW gales exiting eastern Bass Strait on Sunday (see above). stronger than the fetch off Southern NSW but located further away.

So again, be on the watch for small peaky waves in the 2-3ft+ range at south swell magnets - mainly south of the border - but don’t get your hopes up. One or two exposed northern ends in SE Qld may also pick up some small waves from this source but most locations won't enjoy the swell direction.

Light winds are also on the cards again so if there are waves they’ll be clean. 

The Southern Ocean storm track will then remain well and truly aligned outside of our swell window for a few days, until another front crosses the Southern NSW region on Wednesday (see below), extending W/SW gales through eastern Bass Strait into Thursday morning. This may set up a brief flush of south swell for Friday though it’s like to be smaller than Tuesday’s south swell (from the same region). 

As for other swell sources - a deep polar low off the ice shelf this weekend looks like it’ll be aimed a little west of our swell window, which is unusual. It’s a reasonable system and may provide some small sideband energy mid week (models are picking up a foot of S/SW swell at 13 seconds in Coffs Harbour around Thursday) but in general isn’t worth worrying about.

Otherwise, the longer term outlook maintains a similar strong zonal flow across the south-eastern corner of the country, suggesting mainly small conditions will persist with occasional minor southerly pulses.

Out to our east, and a stationary tropical depression out in the Tahitian region of the South Pacific (see below) looks like remaining anchored from this weekend through much of next week, so we may see some small but long-lived E’ly swell through the end of next week, persisting for a week or so. It’s hard to be confident on specific surf trends, but inconsistent 2ft+ sets are a possibility from this source at times. If local winds become light, this could be a source for an extended run of fun open beachies. 

And, a more significant trough is expected to develop south of Fiji later next week that could provide a solid E’ly swell during the following week but this is still some time away and will require close monitoring over the coming days. 

Have a great weekend, see you Monday!

Comments

Rockethut's picture
Rockethut's picture
Rockethut Friday, 23 Jul 2021 at 8:20pm

Time to continue with my new hobby.
Drugs and alcohol

richard187's picture
richard187's picture
richard187 Friday, 23 Jul 2021 at 8:39pm

Ditto, but its not a new hobby.

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Friday, 23 Jul 2021 at 8:48pm

yes please

back beach's picture
back beach's picture
back beach Friday, 23 Jul 2021 at 8:48pm

new ay? Bit green to surfin then?

Distracted's picture
Distracted's picture
Distracted Friday, 23 Jul 2021 at 9:04pm

Ben, any reason why there is a flood warning for the Hastings River tonight due to abnormal high tides but not other coastal rivers apart from the Cook River? Would have thought there would be built up areas of similar low elevation along other coastal rivers such as the Tweed?
http://www.bom.gov.au/nsw/warnings/flood/hastingsriver.shtml

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 24 Jul 2021 at 8:05am

Hmm, not sure.

May be related to inverse barometer effects (see Craig's article on this from from 2016). Though, there's only a couple of hPa difference between Byron and Port Mac right now (which equates to a couple of centimetres).

Winds are NW tending W'ly too which shouldn't contribute further (conversely, if winds were onshore, it can 'pile up' the water and increase sea levels).

Perhaps there's something happening locally - rising water table? - that's accentuating the tidal influence across the lower reaches. That's a wild guess though.. this is outside my knowledge base, so I'll try to find someone else who knows more! I know quite a few BOM staff read these notes too, so perhaps one of them will chime in with an answer.

For the record, the BOM warning was:

MINOR FLOODING EXPECTED AT SETTLEMENT POINT ON FRIDAY AND SATURDAY

An abnormally high tide is expected to cause minor flooding along the Hastings River at Settlement Point on Friday and Saturday evenings.

Small rainfall totals are forecast for the area on Friday, though is not expected to contribute to the minor flooding at Settlement Point.

The Hastings River at Settlement Point is expected to peak near the minor flood level (1.20 metres) around 08:30 pm Friday and around 09:30 pm Saturday on the high tide.

 

Distracted's picture
Distracted's picture
Distracted Saturday, 24 Jul 2021 at 5:14pm

Cheers Ben, just curious as although it is near a full moon, it’s not a big high tide, 1.68m was the forecast.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 24 Jul 2021 at 7:56am

Nice to see the south swell still providing fun waves in Coffs this morning (surfcam grab from around half six). Very inco though.

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Saturday, 24 Jul 2021 at 4:54pm

Whoa! No one out???

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Saturday, 24 Jul 2021 at 1:48pm

Today was pretty fucken unbelievable.

8.5/ 10 for its size.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Saturday, 24 Jul 2021 at 3:01pm

2nd that

Distracted's picture
Distracted's picture
Distracted Saturday, 24 Jul 2021 at 5:13pm

Great day on the right beach and definitely a little east swell in the water with some A frame action .

gcuts's picture
gcuts's picture
gcuts Saturday, 24 Jul 2021 at 2:15pm

And, for you Qlders, and NSW 'border zone' peeps ... no recreational surfing outside YOUR state!

"Queensland residents and New South Wales border zone resdients are allowed to cross the border for organised sport. Organised sportincludes a sporting activity organised by a community club, religious organisation, school or educational institution."

Lennox will be sanes the Qlders Freeride on the next swell!

Who gets to surf D'bah though?

gcuts's picture
gcuts's picture
gcuts Saturday, 24 Jul 2021 at 2:21pm

https://www.health.qld.gov.au/system-governance/legislation/cho-public-h...

List of the "permitted purpose" from that link (scroll down to the bottom under 'definitions'), it reads:

Permitted purpose means:

to obtain food or other goods or services for the personal needs of the household or other household purposes, including for pets, and for vulnerable persons; or

to obtain medical care or supplies or other health care services; or

to perform work or volunteering; or

to provide assistance, care or support to a family member or to fulfil other caring responsibilities; or

to attend any court or tribunal of Australia or to comply with or give effect to orders of the court or tribunal of Australia; or

to attend a childcare facility, school, university, or other educational institution; or

to attend organised sport; or

to assist with or participate in an investigation or other action by a law enforcement authority, whether voluntarily or not; or

for children under 18 years who do not live in the same household as their biological parents or siblings or one of their parents or siblings, continuing existing arrangements for access to, and contact between, parents and children and siblings; or

avoiding injury or illness or to escape a risk of harm; or

Example – escaping a risk of harm related to sexual, domestic and family violence

to comply with or give effect to the exercise of a power or function of a government agency or entity under a law; or

for the purpose of obtaining a COVID-19 test; or

in the event of an emergency situation; or

to obtain a COVID-19 vaccination; or

to relocate to a new primary place of residence.

NO RECREATIONAL SURFING!

NO EXERCISE.

HECK, you can't even cross the border to go to the gym, yoga, pilates, etc ...

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Saturday, 24 Jul 2021 at 4:53pm

Who gets to surf D'bah though? Literally everyone. I hate this cross border bullshit "Lennox will be sanes (sic) the Queenslanders". FFS it's not a secret spot and I seem to remember all the LeBa crew discovering the highway went in both directions when all the whites were biting a few years back....For the record I'm on the blue side of the border.

wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443 Sunday, 25 Jul 2021 at 11:32am

Noticeably, a lot less Qld cars in Tweed Coast carparks this morning... these conditions just ideal for the open Northern NSW beachies, with now all Qld surfers unable to access them (legally)...

Heard rego plates are tracked in NSW ... NSW Police sharing data with Qld

Wonder when the please explain starts happening on return across the border?

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Sunday, 25 Jul 2021 at 1:13pm

Anecdata- 1 in 5 cars around the beach car parks here have Qld plates. Way more than normal.

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Sunday, 25 Jul 2021 at 4:20pm

Nope Wingnut, they don't care. Drove past two HWP cars in the northern rivers today with my work car which happens to have QLD plates although I live in NSW. No issue at all, not even a sideways glance. More Vicco plates than QLD here right now. There were noticeably less cars around full stop, probs because it's dead flat except for one reliable magnet that was 1-2 but no banks.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Sunday, 25 Jul 2021 at 4:37pm

I reckon it’s Blowfly Against Windowpane syndrome again.

Qld inaccessible so the punters who’d normally be heading north are trapped on this side of the border. The Byron scare has made a lot of them hang further south. Down here has finally caught on properly with the Vanlyfe set. Nothing like Byron etc yet but it’s way more noticeable than I’ve ever seen. Basically every beachside car park has a resident vanlyfe stinking it up. Nice people mostly but the rubbish is adding up.

richard187's picture
richard187's picture
richard187 Saturday, 24 Jul 2021 at 3:52pm

Would be tough living north of the border with all these perfect small swells coming up perfect for northwall and illuka

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Saturday, 24 Jul 2021 at 4:48pm

Dude! That's not how this works...no naming of names champ.

richard187's picture
richard187's picture
richard187 Saturday, 24 Jul 2021 at 5:33pm

Everyone knows already and have known where to surf since the 60s. Luckily things never remain the same

dilmah's picture
dilmah's picture
dilmah Saturday, 24 Jul 2021 at 5:49pm

Richard my friend you are a dick - our waves a so heavily crowded with anything lately - keep your thoughts to yourself

richard187's picture
richard187's picture
richard187 Saturday, 24 Jul 2021 at 6:49pm

Thanks, means a lot. Will keep my thoughts to myself

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Saturday, 24 Jul 2021 at 5:59pm

Not entirely true.

Seems like one thing that’s stayed the same is the inability of some people to keep their lips shut.

richard187's picture
richard187's picture
richard187 Saturday, 24 Jul 2021 at 6:43pm

Yeah yeah fairplay

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 24 Jul 2021 at 5:57pm

That NE windswell over achieved

McQuartzie's picture
McQuartzie's picture
McQuartzie Saturday, 24 Jul 2021 at 6:09pm

Instead of the waffle...in Summary knee to shoulder high grovelling for the next 2 weeks. thats it.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Saturday, 24 Jul 2021 at 6:19pm

Yeah…nah.

Rockethut's picture
Rockethut's picture
Rockethut Saturday, 24 Jul 2021 at 6:40pm

I don't think border closures makes any difference to crowds. Neither does lockdown in my experience.

greg-n.williams's picture
greg-n.williams's picture
greg-n.williams Sunday, 25 Jul 2021 at 5:08pm

Ah yeah/nah? Gotta love that little insight! As far as naming places goes I think that nearly all those secret spot X's died with the advent of so called smart phones & social media exposure! Keep your eye on your local surf zones & if you can swing some flexibility mid week you can still score some good waves with not too many other punters! Keep on surfing it's our Church of the Open Sky( to quote Nat)! Oh yeah Saturday was fun on a mid- length board with plenty of volume.

crg's picture
crg's picture
crg Sunday, 25 Jul 2021 at 6:38pm

1-2ft...a couple of 3ft double up wedges...offshore...no one out...no crowd problems down here. Did see about 5 or 6 Qld plates on 4wd’s obviously on holiday...thankfully they seemed to be into their fishing and sinking tins...not a surfboard in sight.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Sunday, 25 Jul 2021 at 9:00pm

Where are you again crg?

crg's picture
crg's picture
crg Monday, 26 Jul 2021 at 11:30am

Mid North

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 26 Jul 2021 at 7:06am

Well, looks like that flukey south swell from Sunday's W/SW gales off Southern NSW came true.

crg's picture
crg's picture
crg Monday, 26 Jul 2021 at 11:31am

Definitely here too...on the upper end of forecast size but very straight.

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Monday, 26 Jul 2021 at 11:00am

Havent had a good surf for a while now, must be picking the wrong spots or something. Whenever i check around here (ballina etc) looks either small or fat or often both.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Monday, 26 Jul 2021 at 1:18pm

Definitely user error there :)

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Monday, 26 Jul 2021 at 3:38pm

right you are! Went for a lunch lookabout and scored some fun waves :)

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 26 Jul 2021 at 1:08pm

loving these sneaky, flukey S swell pulses.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 26 Jul 2021 at 2:21pm

Nice S'ly lines continuing to pour through at Coffs.