thermalben

Trade-swell-o-ramaPremium content for Swellnet Pro subscribers

It's looking like a points-only affair this weekend. Bring the crowd repellant! More in the Forecaster Notes. 

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Comments

mid week surfer's picture
mid week surfer's picture
mid week surfer commented Friday, 7 Dec 2018 at 7:40pm

watch out for vossy drop in on the points

crg's picture
crg's picture
crg commented Friday, 7 Dec 2018 at 8:16pm

"...current modelling has north-easterly quadrant winds across the Mid North Coast up until late Tuesday 18th December, which is twelve consecutive days counting today. Yikes!..."

There goes the warm water...back to the steamer.

Spuddups's picture
Spuddups's picture
Spuddups commented Saturday, 8 Dec 2018 at 2:43pm

Hey crg, any idea why a NE wind cools the water down where you are? It seems counter intuitive to me but I'd be interested to know your take on it.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben commented Saturday, 8 Dec 2018 at 3:00pm
crg's picture
crg's picture
crg commented Saturday, 8 Dec 2018 at 7:36pm

Yeah Spuddups...as the article Ben mentioned says, we have a significant deep section of water just north of where I am and we get the brunt of the upwelling. About two weeks ago I surfed in 15 deg water in the morning and took a 1.5hr drive north in the afternoon and surfed in 21 deg water. Steamer to boardies. We have some OK spots for north wind and the cold water keeps the crowds down a bit - so all good.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 commented Saturday, 8 Dec 2018 at 8:42pm

I've had 15 degree water there in Feb after a few days of strong n'lies

Spuddups's picture
Spuddups's picture
Spuddups commented Sunday, 9 Dec 2018 at 6:37am

Thanks felluhs, that's something I didn't know about. I spent a week up in Northern NSW in July and the southerly wind was super cold in the mornings but the water was still nice and warm. It was a strange experience surfing 21 deg water while the air temp was 6 deg!
We get some pretty significant upwellings here around Cook Strait but I think they're related to the tides, not so much the wind. The tides on either side of the strait are almost exactly out of phase. Couple this with some extremely deep canyons just offshore there's all sorts of weirdness going on. Here's an interesting article about the Strait here in case anyone's interested. https://natlib.govt.nz/visiting/wellington/unfolding-the-map/coastal-cha...

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay commented Sunday, 9 Dec 2018 at 7:08am

Spud, you're right about the tides being the main driver up upwelling here. You generally need a long, straight coastline to see the Ekman effects.

Ekman transport and the resultant upwelling are the cause of the cool waters and desert like landscapes found in many western parts of our continents: California, Chile, SA/Namibia, Portugal etc. Equatorwards winds; cold and nutrient-rich waters; dry on land.

30 odd years ago, and given a large black board and piece of chalk, I could have done the integration through the Ekman Layer, proving that the transport there is normal (perpendicular; to the right in N Hemi, left i S Hemi) to the surface wind vector. My math is very rusty now...

hamishbro's picture
hamishbro's picture
hamishbro commented Friday, 7 Dec 2018 at 8:51pm

Trade swell schmell. Not worth it for the onshores, crowds, and dull weather.

redmondo's picture
redmondo's picture
redmondo commented Saturday, 8 Dec 2018 at 6:57am

Looks good on the charts but pretty ordinary in real time.

Victory!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 commented Saturday, 8 Dec 2018 at 8:08am

I'm enjoying the hell out of this run. Been surfing onshore sloppy head high point surf with fukall people around.
Doesn't look pretty but it's pretty fun to surf.

redmondo's picture
redmondo's picture
redmondo commented Saturday, 8 Dec 2018 at 10:17am

Good to hear freeride. I knew world felt more harmonious it's the flow on effect when you're enjoying the surf.

Victory!

KevinHardwick's picture
KevinHardwick's picture
KevinHardwick commented Saturday, 8 Dec 2018 at 2:08pm

Fark yeh Freeride. Chunky beachies aren't horrible either. At least there's swell and no crowds!