Solid surf keeps coming with W'ly angled swells continuing to dominate
Hawaii North Shore forecast by Steve Shearer (issued on Fri Jan 14)
This week and next (Jan14 – Jan21)
Hawaii: Relentless period of solid surf continues into next week with multiple strong pulses from the W/NW to NW and light/variable winds most days.
Pumping surf in the 10-12ft range Wed has now eased back into the 6-8ft range with plenty of juice still around at most NS spots and light and variable winds continuing.
Surf rebuilds Fri back into the 8ft range from the W/NW with a light E’ly flow expected, perfect for Pipe.
Sat looks dicey with a weak troughy area of low pressure to the north of the state bringing a light W’ly flow.
A reinforcing pulse Sat pushes surf back into the 8ft range, holding Sun morning before easing. Winds improve Sun as light downstream trades flicker back into life, with no real strength expected.
Into next week and another large cyclonic gyre forms over the North Pacific on the weekend/early next week. A large area of seas in excess of 20ft reaches 180W later Sun, with a secondary intensification along the edge of the gyre pushing 18-22 ft seas closer to the Islands later Mon into Tuesday.
This will generate solid surf rising Tuesday into the 6-8ft range with flukey winds. The bulk of the swell fills in Wed, with surf looking A-grasde under light E’ly winds and size in the 10-12 ft range, maxing out inshore reefs.
Another huge swathe of severe gales pushing of Japan Tues/Wed tracks towards Hawaii with a captured fetch , generating another large/XL swell Fri with size pushing up into the 15ft range, with light SE winds expected as the edge of the windfield sweeps past the island and a weak high pressure ridge builds in behind it.
Size holds through Sat with light E’ly trades filling in, promising an excellent day at maxed inshore reefs and smaller big wave spots.
Longer term and another more compact but storm force low tacks towards the Islands later next week, suggesting another strong pulse of W/NW swell early week 24/1.
Following that, the large gyre looks to break down, with a possibility of a pause in the relentless swells of the last few weeks.
Check Mon for the latest and have a great weekend.