Gallery: October Sessions
Last Friday was a day of contrasts.
It started wet and windy with a strong north-east breeze making a mess of the ocean, but with a gusty offshore change pegged for late morning along with clearing weather and a peak in east-northeast swells, all the ingredients were there for a classic afternoon of surf.
I worked through the morning, watching the change push across the Blue Mountains, onwards to the coast. The skies cleared around Sydney at 9am, but it wasn't until one final burst of showers moved offshore just before 11am that winds turned west of north.
At first, conditions were raw with shorter period 5-6ft peaks pushing into the north-east magnets, but after an hour the windswell component began to drop out, surface conditions settled, and the waves began to pump on the dropping tide.
As the afternoon developed, a pulse of long-range groundswell kept crew hunting the inside sections honest, with larger sets detonating outside every 10 minutes or so.
Into the evening, the swell slowed a little but the rush of crowds also abated, leaving a handful of locals - Blake Levett being the standout at my local - to enjoy a special out-of-season session on a glorious Friday night.