Localism in the Time of Lockdown

Steve Shearer picture
Steve Shearer (freeride76)
Swellnet Dispatch

Nobody told me there'd be days like these...

Localism: The stain on the soul of surfing, or the most natural way - the only way - human beings have ever divvied up scarce resources without guns, germs, and steel.

Pick your poison.

I'll lay my cards on the table in a minute, but before the existential debate rages we need to note a more concrete fact. For the first time in any surf culture since the Hawaiian ali'i ruled surfing with an iron fist, large chunks of surfers in this country now live under localism by decree.

Where you live is where you surf. No travel outside the council boundary is allowed for NSW and Vicco surfers. QLD has more freedom but can't conduct the normal cross border raids into NSW. WA is essentially in home detention, imprisoned in their vast state.

Still from Dick Hoole, 1975 / The Surf Film Archive

Everyone will have a different take on this, and this is mine. But first, a quick caveat. Please don't take anything below as gloating. As the cost of living skyrockets on the Far North Coast of NSW I've been hanging on by my fingernails to a coastal abode. But for the Grace of God etc etc I would be in Penrith or Coraki or Grafton. Forced inland by the cost of housing, landlocked by government decree.

Unlike the USA, Europe, South Africa, and New Zealand, Australia's pandemic response has always allowed surfing. As far as viral transmission is concerned it's probably the safest place to be. The joy in the water that surfing produces has taken on a different dimension as movement between urban centres and regions is diminished. In short, crowds are down in bush nooks and smaller coastal towns. Not extinguished but reduced, sometimes to levels not seen since the 70's. Filmmaker Joylon Hoff's restoration of old 16mm film highlighted a Golden Age of Innocence in Australian surfing, with comments below stating we would never see conditions like that again in our lifetimes.

Well, we have.

In one of the strangest ironies of the pandemic, one of the unforeseen consequences of the so-called 'police state' has been a return to a freedom in the lineup that most had thought swamped by crowds a generation ago.

The psychological effect has been profound. From a vantage point I can recognise voices, while laughter and hoots dominate. In the water, a shared understanding prevails: Who's up? Who's next? A legrope is snapped and a board is careening towards the rocks. Someone catches a wave in, a guy jumping off breaks his line and they rescue the board before damage is done.

Would that have happened in a fully frothed pre-pandemic crowd where an 'every man for himself and the devil take the hindmost' mood takes hold?

I tell a pal just out of the water that the lockdown has been extended and he punches the air. He runs a simple program and the benefits outweigh the restrictions. For him, the good times are right now, and that is a sentiment you won't find expressed in any media outlet.

It might sound heartless to find joy in a time of suffering, but every pandemic and plague has unintended side effects. An extreme example: After the Black Death plagues in Europe caused mass fatalities, wages for workers and peasants went up, lifting millions out of abject misery. It's humbling to admit that we are mere pawns of historical forces. For good or ill.

Localism is a potent evolutionary force. Emeritus Professor of Evolutionary Psychology Robin Dunbar discovered from primate and human studies that there is a “cognitive limit to the number of individuals with whom any one person can maintain stable relationships”. In short, our hunter-gatherer brain can only recognise and consider around 150 people. The implications for surf localism are profound. Faces not recognised means their interests are not considered. When the crowd consists mostly of people who recognise and consider each others interests, the dynamic becomes largely co-operative, as opposed to impersonal, aggressive, competitive.

Anyone who has paddled out at the Superbank will attest to this phenomenon.

Modern surfing bears little resemblance culturally to its Hawaiian progenitors. The “ocean belongs to everyone, maaan” crew would not fare well in Polynesian society. Their version of localism was as brutal as it was elegant. As part of the kapu system, good spots belonged to the chief/priest class and the rabble were barred from surfing there. Breaking kapu could be a capital offence.

Localism nowadays is much softer. And really, who could defend violence and aggression in the surf? It's only legitimate defence is the same one Winston Churchill used to defend democracy: “Democracy is the worst form of government – except for all the others that have been tried”.

Localism, with all its regional differences, is still the only thing that works. It's a barrier to entry, a kind of soft kapu, a hedge against chaos. And when outside forces intervene to create isolated surfing communities, a form of utopia.

Localism keeps me away from Pipeline, Padang Padang, the Canary Islands,  California, Burleigh Heads. Or at the least encourages me to be on my very best behaviour if I do paddle out.

What will happen to localism on the other side? When lockdowns cease. We want to move again, to travel and experience novel or beloved surf experiences. Others will too. New Zealand has moved to restructure tourism hotspots away from reliance on servicing visitors, but it seems unlikely Australia will follow suit. A bounce back is more likely. Which means the lucky few who experienced the return to a golden age via governmental localism will have to learn to overcome the primal/evolutionary urges which shape our interactions with strangers in the surf.

Or not.

//STEVE SHEARER

Comments

ringmaster's picture
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ringmaster Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 1:21pm

Yeah nah........

The good days are still super busy around here (Vic Surfcoast) in lockdown and every surf there are heads you've never seen before. This is more to do with the stupid pace of development in the past 10 or so years than anything else.

Pretty sure Lennox Head and surrounds has seen a similar population explosion even though I haven't actually been there for about 25 years. I doubt very much on a good day out at that point in these times that it's all rainbows & unicorns and 'you go this one' etc.

Another point to be factored in is that during lockdown there are a loooooot of people with less or no work / working from home / more free time / kids not in school / limited activity options etc.

So what do they all do? Paddle out and stink up the surf of course!

goofyfoot's picture
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goofyfoot Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 3:19pm

Yep, gotta admit every lock down the surf seems to be a shit load more crowded here than non lock down periods. I’d love to know of these small coastal towns that it’s gone the opposite way in.

Fluiddreams's picture
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Fluiddreams Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 10:12am

Totally agree. The crowds at my local were crazy at the best of times but since COVID it's just plain outta control.
I'm really dreadng the next wave when Sydney decides to all move up here to sunny QLD.

joesydney's picture
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joesydney Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 7:17pm

100% - I loved a quieter midweek surf. Now every kid over 12 is in the water and every other person WFH who finally gets to scratch that learn to surf itch. End lockdown i say!!!!

Ps localism in Australia is not a thing. A bunch of white people immigrants who have been surfing at some spot for at most 3 generations entitles you to sweet fuck all IMO. Every dickhead who thinks they have some entitlement to a wave in this country should be made to go and hang out with their local indigenous crew and thank from the bottom of their heart for sharing their country with us.

Blowin's picture
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Blowin Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 8:20pm

.

Garryh's picture
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Garryh Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 6:41pm

what's the record for number of comments to a post...is this one anywhere near the top? touchy issue it seems

JackStance's picture
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JackStance Wednesday, 1 Sep 2021 at 12:11pm

Solidarity. Totally agree. Of course.
It is obvious because 'whiteness' is invisible to 99% of whites.
Propaganda works.

Clivus Multrum's picture
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Clivus Multrum Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 1:52pm

Of the two descriptors in the opening, I’m with the latter. A healthy level of localism is for the better

bonza's picture
bonza's picture
bonza Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 2:10pm

I'm a new local in a quiet stretch. Yesterday morning I was avoiding eye contact in the carpark as I was suiting up with a blow-in a merc suv equally frothing. completely disarmed me with friendly banter. gave myself a stern talking to afterwards.
its def in the genes.

dean maddison's picture
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dean maddison Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 2:32pm

Who's up, who's next? Mmmmmm. Not sure 76. But a nice thought.

Ape Anonymous's picture
Ape Anonymous's picture
Ape Anonymous Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 2:55pm

If everyone would just stay away from Currumbin and let me shred alone, it'd be a much better world - thanks for your time and consideration.

simsurf's picture
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simsurf Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 2:56pm

Except for so many people trying to move to QLD from NSW and Vic they had to stop everyone for two weeks...

garry.thomas's picture
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garry.thomas Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 3:02pm

Covid for me means my closest beach is super uncrowded. At high tide you can be guaranteed there will be no-one out except for a few swimmers if I go for a paddle. The fact that the beach is more than 5 kilometers up a river with no chance of swell is something I try to ignore. Get a wave for me - I am thinking of you!

batfink's picture
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batfink Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 2:42pm

Is that the one and only Garry Thomas? Couldn’t be two of them, such an unusual name. ;-)

And he lives within cooee of a river inlet, but his LGA also takes in Cronulla and surrounds, so maybe not.

garry.thomas's picture
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garry.thomas Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 11:36am

I can see the Shire from near where I live and I always thought that was a good thing. The last 7 or 8 weeks not so much!

nickdid's picture
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nickdid Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 3:32pm

I am waiting for a stiff southly for my next surf.... in Port Philip Bay. Here's hoping it will scratch some sort of itch.
Doubt the heavy local SUP and Kite crew will give me a hard time but hey, stranger things have happened.

garry.thomas's picture
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garry.thomas Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 5:44pm

Go for it Nick - Make it Burleigh!

geek's picture
geek's picture
geek Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 3:17pm

Good read, couple of corrections:

"No travel outside the council boundary is allowed for NSW and Vicco surfers"
I wish this was the case but EVERYBODY is limited to 5km radius in Vic right now.

"Unlike the USA, Europe, South Africa, and New Zealand, Australia's pandemic response has always allowed surfing."
Surfing was actually listed as a banned activity on the MP (as it was considered metropolitan) for around 3 weeks in August last year. As far as I know a few were questioned by police but commonsense prevailed and there was no fines and the ruling was changed.

freeride76's picture
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freeride76 Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 3:23pm

thanks for corrections Geek.

lucky-al's picture
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lucky-al Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 12:46am

also, you have a tautology in there somewhere.

Panman's picture
Panman's picture
Panman Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 3:22pm

Yep your a local till you go somewhere else.

brownie48's picture
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brownie48 Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 3:24pm

The insane city beach covid crowds are a real struggle if you live there.

The isolated non metro places are a joy if you live there

When isolation breaks the city dwellers will be leaving in mass numbers for a quick surf, weekend away or a holiday

I see the isolated non metro surfers will be quite aggressive to anyone new that wasn't there before until they get overrun like the city dwellers have been with the lockdown covid crew who have taken up surfing with gusto

It will be interesting to see how it plays out cause once travel restrictions are lifted in Syd and Melb the crowds in regional areas will be very heavy

batfink's picture
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batfink Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 2:48pm

City beaches have seen insane crowds for 18 months. With the 5 km rule now in place it has dropped the numbers by half or more, so we’re back to what would have been a weekend summer crowd from 2 years ago.

Yesterday was pretty crowded, but it was a Friday and it was pretty. I’m rarely seen out the back at my local of 30 years, more likely to be seen body surfing. A batch of the newbies will be looking daggers at me as if I’m the blow in, but the older crew will no my face.

samerubi's picture
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samerubi Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 3:26pm

i am lucky to live in a relatively unpopulated area of the stretch between newcastle and sydney. the regular/local surfers in my part of the world all know each other through various endeavours - work, sport, boardriders, etc. in a five year period they also now know me - a blowin. i am happy to say that, as i have done previously when moving to a new area, a healthy degree of respect, empathy and humour usually win over even the toughest crowds, it also helps if you can surf moderately well without bombing the best waves.... i have found that recent lockdowns have increased the crowds - but generally the crew is a bit more.... thankful.... to be doing what they enjoy. This is evident in the increased talk, banter, and general sharing going on in the water around here. Note, this doesnt seem to apply on saturdays and sundays.... personally, i am loving lockdown - the mid-morning surf check and shit talk, the late arvo session when the tide is right, and the extra time i spend with my family.... to be able to do all this and still get just as much work done makes me think this is a golden age in so many ways.

batfink's picture
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batfink Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 2:51pm

That would be where my holiday house is. Grass might be 10’ high by now, though not likely.

I can always find a spot up there where I will be one of only a few crew out. Local knowledge means never having to paddle out into crowded line-ups.

Island Bay's picture
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Island Bay Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 3:33pm

Geez, timing is everything.

This would have been very hard to read a few hours ago, but we're going to Level 3 meaning surfing is once again on the cards. Sans Aucklanders (sorry).

Enjoy your surfs, especially the quiet ones. And keep regulating things, even if softly softly.

BÓTON's picture
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BÓTON Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 4:23pm

I assume your name represents your location?

Do you think the “city folk” will travel to you?

I fear the onslaught where I am once we go level 3

Island Bay's picture
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Island Bay Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 5:41pm

It did, but we moved north.

Good luck fighting the hoards.

BÓTON's picture
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BÓTON Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 7:24pm

ChUR

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 3:42pm

not like that around here either, more and more people have fled the cities and bought here so its crowded with new locals who dont know and dont care and bring there fuked attitude with them same as they had where they came from.......

Stimpie's picture
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Stimpie Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 4:09pm

An interesting article Freeride, localism as viewed by a local and I didn't read any of it as gloating.

My view is from the other side...a non-local. Although I've been surfing in earnest since the late 80's, for a number of reasons I have not been able to make the all important move to the coast. Not for want of trying though, I did spend a couple of blissful years living down the south end of the goldie in the mid 90's before family matters drew me back to the big smoke again. So for most of my surfing life I've been making that fuckin' 1.5h drive from Melbourne down past Geelong and on to the surf coast. I never really gave localism much thought, just give everyone room to move and try not to be a dickhead in the surf.

Until march 2020 that was, when covid localism took off and I became acutely aware of who was in the car park, what cars they drove, boards and wetsuits they had etc. Locals? Non Locals, Melbourne covid dogs perhaps??? paranoia setting in. I quickly ripped the northern suburbs car dealers number-plate trims off my car..a dead give away for sure. Due to advancing age I had already started surfing bigger boards, but now I frequented lesser quality breaks with fewer crowds and tended to hang around spots with learners and ... god forbid...longboarders. Less aggro, angry entitled 'new' locals. Not such a bad thing having a quiet cruisy surf on an easy paddling stick with enthusiastic new surfers, makes a nice change after 30 odd years of hassling for waves on a 6' thruster in lineups full of over zealous core surfers.

So now nearly 18 months later and having missed out on the bulk of 2 years worth of lovely autumn/winters consistent swell and offshores, my surfs are whatever I can make of them in whatever conditions present themselves to me on the rare occasions I can get down the beach between lockdowns. Of course there's pressure to do family stuff on these rare occasions as well...but that's a whole other can of worms which led me to be a non-local which is best left alone!! So don't worry surfcoast locals, you won't see my bloated fat covid arse trying to get inside you on my overfoamed midlength at winky or boobs. I'll be quietly cruising around somewhere east or west of you snatching a few little dribblers where I can.

Lockdown localism Melbourne style.

ps Freeride, I've got a mate that lives in Grafton. Jesus I'd love to live there! Warm, sunny and only 45min to the beach. Its all perspective I guess.

freeride76's picture
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freeride76 Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 4:18pm

Grafton is alright, as long as you are prepared to go underwater when the Clarence floods.

Not playing the local card myself, I'm Bribie blowin scum.

Just making a few observations and hoping others share theirs, which you did.

so cheers mate, hope your next surf is a good one.

zenagain's picture
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zenagain Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 5:19pm

Northern tip of Bribie is epic on its day.

Many fond memories of that place, fishing and camping over at White Patch.

dandob's picture
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dandob Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 7:27pm

You must be desperate if you're lusting after living in Grafton. Up river mob are.... different.... :)

P.s. I've broken my " stay home and don't surf" moral stance over the last few days. Guilty of being failably human.

Guzmund's picture
Guzmund's picture
Guzmund Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 4:59pm

Totally relate Stimpie.
My philosophy now” any surf is a good surf”

brutus's picture
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brutus Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 4:09pm

here at Bells /Winki, the lockdown has doubled the amount of surfers...so many beginners on rubber s/bds surfing and trying to learn to surf........we now get up to 130 guys in the water , and 1/2 we've never seen before......
The population here on the Surf Coast has increased and we can all feel the affects of Armstrong Creek which is a satellite city 10 mins from Torquay.....what we are seeing now is a preview to the extra 100 000 people who will live in Torquay /AC....and all surf spot Car Parks on a nice weekend are full......we are full now and overflowing..
Wait till the new development at Lennox kicks in , and your surfing population goes thru the roof.....
Right now is the good old days!

ringmaster's picture
ringmaster's picture
ringmaster Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 4:18pm

Hossegor starting to look good again Brutus?

brutus's picture
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brutus Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 11:19am

I think that all Western Global Coastal surf villages have been over run in the last 18 mths.

The biggest change of demographics and "the Haves "( who keep buying and moving into a city like Torquay /Hossegor ) it feels like a decade of growth in a year...once country communities are now urban communities......

I choose to not surf mostly , as I feel it's never been so dangerous , and what rules were once observed doesn't seem to exist anymore ...too many Adult learner surfers spoil it for everyone....but that's now the world we live in....surfing has become an exercise where people can have no idea about pre-existing etiquette in the water....so it's become a shit fight....

mikehunt207's picture
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mikehunt207 Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 10:47pm

Same goes and if not even more in the Margaret River region,line ups are full, b grade spots have names and are full, nothing available to rent, every block of land sold and being built on or soon to be , more sub divisions everywhere and everyone surfs , new locals , buy a house on the hill, get some local number plates, maybe even a locally shaped board and join the queue.
The covid boom making the FIFO boom seem minor in comparison.
Country town life being changed forever and localism in its wake.

Patate's picture
Patate's picture
Patate Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 4:29pm

Good article -
In civil life as in surfing life trying to connect and share is always more rewarding than successfully fighting for ressources.

I don’t care about angry locals and they don’t deter me because I know I will still get waves.
I connect with local crews occasionally and after small chat I make sure I on my best behaviour to perpetuate the good locals Behaviour.

I give away some waves when I’m more competent or better geared that other around and that always feel good :) I encourage everyone to try it

Lottolonglong's picture
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Lottolonglong Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 5:43pm

I have been doing that for many years, for all wave riders too!!! Just today I gave an out of town bodysurfer a wave I had priority for,he was stoked and gave one back to me!!!

haggis's picture
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haggis Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 4:34pm

Lennox will get packed out again, mate. Hoards of Queenslanders coming your way in the near vaccinated future.

evosurfer's picture
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evosurfer Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 4:47pm

Cronulla crowds during this chinese virus are at epidemic levels I guess
they must live in the shire working from home, no work at all, learning
to surf or whatever the crowds are insane.

Coaster's picture
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Coaster Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 10:06pm

You’re funny, Evo.

tomrnoir's picture
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tomrnoir Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 4:57pm

An uplifting write-up Steve, thanks.

Sunny Coast is wrecked. Can't believe how I took it for granted. No localism at all now. Lockdown did nothing, heaps of Mdore pricks were breaking the radius to surf the northern spots. New faces in each of my usual haunts - from north & south-facing to the beachie out the front of my house. Little respect is shown to the locals either. Mid-morning crowd lulls aren't a thing nowadays - it's constant, relentless & tiring.

It's everyone for themselves. Lineups are short-tempered & overpopulated. I'll find a pocket to myself & within 10 minutes I'll be bank-hopped. Not nearly as much space anymore. Times are weird here but I'm (selfishly) holding onto the hope that a sizable quantity of southerner mortgages will become unserviceable & they'll head back.

I'm missing the community aspect of surfing. I may as well surf Tea-Tree on the daily. Localism in moderate amounts is a terrific enforcer of respect - Yba is meh, but probably the only remaining spot with a semblance of it now. Envious.

wurtulla's picture
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wurtulla Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 6:06pm

Yep busy. I imagine tomorrow will be nuts with the current swell.

tomrnoir's picture
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tomrnoir Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 8:07pm

It is what it is. Hope you get some tomorrow mate.

Ben Harding's picture
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Ben Harding Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 6:08am

tomrnoir - Yeah I agree, V interesting read and good to hear others perspectives.

But, Gee, my perspective of the sunny coast is totally different..its all love. Albeit I don't live there.. But I am up there every other week, and family been up there since 08’ish. Mainly surf two central stretches but enjoy heading to the northern stretch when the conditions call for it. Always seem to get waves, find a bank with not too many on it, or if it's busy still get my share with no paddle battles, the very opposite in fact, real community vibes. Generally always see familiar and or the same friendly enough crew. Not sure how fiercely localised the Sunny Coast ever was from what I could see, comparatively speaking that is. Growing up, I do remember certain spots feeling heavy'ish but that was probably due to sheer talent of crew and the fabled nature of those particular beachies from memory. Serious talent up there considering how fickle it can be. Again, I'm not there day in and day out, but it's almost chalk and cheese compared to down south. Interesting to read you think it's wrecked, that must really suck mate. I reckon things will equalize as soon as the country goes back to work and interstate/international travel opens back up. Whenever that is. Haha, and somewhat tongue in cheek, I thought you moved from Vicco only a couple years back... Great place to be, thats why my family shifted up there and Im still trying to figure out how to move up there permanently. I am in niche field with work and projects are aplenty down where I am currently and further south. If you look at the population stats of the sunny coast over the past ten or so years, the influx has been steady for years. Covid exposed and accelerated the situation no doubt.

tomrnoir's picture
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tomrnoir Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 1:57pm

Cheers for your thoughts Benno.

It was all love for me until late last year. Beforehand, it was such a blissful place to surf. Rarely pumping by any stretch, but once you got north of the bridge, the vibe was so darn mellow. So fucking quiet pretty much everywhere you go (barring Coolum) until you hit the Noosa points.

There were signs before Covid, but towards the end of last winter, something shifted. Melbourne lockdown escapees perhaps? I know at least 5 couples who've moved up to SEQ from Vic since Covid.

Will happily admit I'm part of the problem. I'm Vic born, but spent much of my schooling up here before moving back there. Came back up a few years ago, so I'm 100% a hypocrite but considering my upbringing on the Sunny I do feel some entitlement. Still hurts to see the rapid change over the past 12 months or so - it's hard to believe. New faces everywhere - many not so friendly.

Swell day granted, but this morning was (relatively) ridiculous in some places. Checked 5 or 6 local spots from 6ish-onwards. The name breaks were packed as per usual, which wasn't really a shock. The frustration came from sussing my regular assortment of 'unknown', non-amenitied accesses off quiet streets; 12 months ago, 99% of offshore, shoulder/head-high mornings would attract a few each peak - triple that this AM. The ~100m stretch of open beach I chose ended up filling to the twenties. It's just shit.

Those special, stress-free sessions still happen (had it on Tuesday). But they're so few and far between that each time I surf nowadays I have to keep my expectations ultra-low. My local has doubled in average crew, even on the crap days. Escaped the office for a quick check yesterday at 10am - counted two sets of 10, a peak apart.

It is what it is, hey. I still have it really bloody good. Given the state of the world, I'm kissed on the dick to have the means to bitch about something so minor.

Loved reading your anecdotes from our beautiful region. Stoked you've enjoyed yourself here. Hopefully, it cools down a little once the 'rona can coincide with some normality. Hope you're getting some down your way mate - Tom

Ben Harding's picture
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Ben Harding Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 8:25am

Nice Tom! I totally get what you're saying, I was more tripping on how different each of us view the world in all aspects of life. It sucks its getting like this, I dont deny the shift at all either. If life had some sort of handbrake, it would be nice if someone pulled it already. At times it feels like we are hurtling to an abyss.

Anyway, I hope you got some over the weekend mate . And I agree, I reckon Tuesday and probs very early Thursday morning were the pick of days for me. Friiday was a circus and saturday not much better, I try keep the sessions short closer to the weekends for that very reason.

Thanks for your reply mate, very much appreciated - Benny

Blowin's picture
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Blowin Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 5:06pm

It’s a temporary respite. The town here looks to be increasing in size by roughly 30 percent just in developments currently in progress, let alone the local shire plan which has it slated as doubling in size within a decade or so.

Surf pumped here today and the carpark was full. The lineup was mellow though with a peak early crowd of 15 surfers widely spread over several peaks. Everyone chilling and being friendly, talking dung and having a good time. By ten o’clock there was 8 out. 4-6 ft hollow peaks, barrels and ripable walls. Blue sky, dolphins surfing everywhere. Warm crystal clear water. Not a single sign of humanity beyond the crew surfing. No buildings, no cars visible. Kangaroos on the beach.

Crew were getting tubed on their own on the next beaches north and south about 1.5 kms away.

Enjoy it while we can.

Sounds like city surfing needs to be nuked from orbit.

Cheers for the read,Freeride.

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tubeshooter Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 5:27pm

It's weird to me how little traffic there is on the road and how full the beach carpark often is.
Bloody groms have got it good lately too , can't wait till they go back to school.
And there's quite a few 'locals' who've lived here for 'almost a year now' as well.
I miss having a few coldies with the crew at times and the usual banter that goes with it. Lockdown restrictions are also probably part of the reason there's noticeably more annoying chat time in the line-up between the local crew too,,,,, bugger off , I don't care , I've got enough dramas of my own.

clif's picture
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clif Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 5:51pm

It became way more busy here, lots of beginners too, and post-lockdown numbers remained high as if everyone caught the bug. Sorry for the bad news! Fortunately, the reefs remain relatively quiet and knowing when to surf them a challenging and time consuming process of trial and error. And they come with a risk newcomers are a still shy of.

Sorry to hear that people are being pushed away from coast FR. I know we don't see eye to eye on the 'identity politics' stuff but this is sort of what I mean by it when it comes to accessibility and concomitant access to place/respect/being a local in a lineup. Identity as structural e.g., seems like class being a big factor @ Lennox which will change who gets to be local and at top of pecking order in the long term lineup there. Hang in there! Lineups need crusty old goat herding redheads the world over.

Thx for the thoughts.

Surf Nerd's picture
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Surf Nerd Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 7:18pm

Can anyone that's not a trust fund kid under the age of 40 actually afford a house anywhere near a beach these days without having to sign up to a crippling mortgage [and not be able to surf]. Having to paddle out at any beach and cope shit from an old grump that brought a house on the headland in 1984 for $8k must be a tough pill to swallow for the next generation that has been forced inland by greedy investors, Air BNB and negative gearing. The old boy with a few investment properties on the headland always seems to make sure they take more than their fair share of waves too.

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bonza Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 8:02pm

K’noath

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Tooold2bakook Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 2:26pm

Agreed. I mean, I'd love to go back to being a local. Moved for study and then work. I'm privileged just the same, by any stretch. But being a local - living near a surfable spot - is also a privilege. A privilege, not a right.

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Solitude Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 9:34pm

There’s a bloody large local crew that surf the point, hard to believe it’s the Lennox Love-in you’re describing.
Nice to hear though.

I’ve surfed with some deadset bell end locals there over the years that even the the Dalai Lama would struggle to give a wave away to.

A question - how long do blow-in pro surfers take before they are given the local card?

Enjoyed the article FR. Good food for thought.

PS - the surf coast sounds done

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unclevernon Friday, 27 Aug 2021 at 11:23pm

NW WA has been much more crowded than usual as crew head up there instead of Indo. I haven’t managed a trip so couldn’t comment about the vibe in the water, but I’m sure the Kalbarri locals will have been welcoming the extra crowds with open arms, haha

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Remigogo Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 12:37am

I am hearing of an awful lot of Queenslanders up NW atm.

As for the far south, inquisitive bronze whalers over populating my local isolated.

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seaslug Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 5:51pm

Yes, and they bring with them their shit attitude in the water

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Finnbob the terror Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 6:36am

Been some good surf as of late on the MP, crowds are less than normal, pretty easy to find a wave to yourself. Mainly locals and blowcals, and a small number of blowins. Got to say the hyped-up blowcals running around like they're going to miss out are harder to deal with than the blowins. Maybe it's the primitive hunter-gather brain finding them more of a threat than someone who is going to leave at the end of the day.
You're a blowin local unless you sprouted your first pube where you live.

Blowin's picture
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Blowin Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 8:38am

First pube or no?

That’s a reliable metric.

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geek Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 10:45am

We are pretty lucky on the MP, thank fuck for the green wedge. I am about to pull the trigger on a new mountain bike though to get me through summer, have a feeling its going to be crazy busy (+ potential constant la nina southerlies)

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jp_ Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 2:57pm

Nah, blowin local if you live more than 500m from where your mom pushed you out. Who needs to see the world?

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Finnbob the terror Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 7:25pm

Ha, blowin local if ya live more than 500m from where ya Nana pushed ya Dad out.

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overthefalls Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 7:36am

It’s been like the good old days in my neck of the woods with just a few locals enjoying quality waves. I have noticed, however, that localism has been like the bad old days with the odd blowin getting the full grilling and marching orders from some of the more hardcore locals. Makes me cringe at times but it certainly keeps the lineup uncrowded. Just when I was enjoying the uncrowded bliss of lockdown, I tear my MCL and now I can’t even drive to the beach to watch mates scoring epic, uncrowded waves. Karma’s a bitch!

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FrazP Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 8:13am

Far out. Hooting, calling people on - pipe dream here unless it is a rare moment with just the locals. It all started last covid and never went back. What was a peak of 10 is now 70+. The travelling circus have little or no care, whether that's sitting in the way, paddling inside not to the shoulder, doing the insideathon where everyone is to deep, paddling straight out up the inside and thinking its ok to call those waiting off, raiding you if you managed to sneak a quiet peak with a rare one - or even turning the car off checking the surf so they don't fume people to death - they have a window to surf and, as a generality, a mentality of fuck everyone else. It's feeding into their ill-mannered kids too. A great place has been turned into a shit show. Wonder how local the blowin would start to be if it happened in their suburbs. Let's get these kids back to school and the circus clowns back to their offices and work Gladys. Look out quiet Coastal towns cause city/cityish beach locals will be moving in droves in search of what once was - the peaceful midweek wave.

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MRsinglefin Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 8:39am

Since the Rip Curl Pro at Merewether and Lockdown, crowds have seriously doubled. There use to be “gentleman’s hour” approx 8.30am when grooms went to school and workers went to work. Now we have aggressive hassles in the lineup which defeats the purpose of going surfing. I really feel for the guys who get so worked up about it as its affecting their mental health. My solution is to accept what it is at the moment, surf whenever I can, ride my MTB and drink beer. “Beaches, boards, bikes and beer”

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Sprout Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 9:03am

I equate it to nightclubs, with bouncers being the locals enforcing the rules of surf etiquette on entry to the waves. Some bouncers do a great job, others are pure wankers. Some possibly driven to be wankers by a line full of etiquette breakers.

Like driving, we wouldn't need road rules if there was only one car, but lots of cars requires rules to keep things fair and orderly and police to pull the wankers into line or get them off the road.

And if a bouncer or a cop are overrun by wankers they have no choice but to fend for themselves.

Kinda where localism and surf etiquette intertwine I guess.

If you lived here before Covid it's night and day to the numbers after Covid. Development has slowly seen a new head or two arrive each year, but Covid's seen an explosion, unfortunately many doing the wrong thing either knowingly or not.

To people who don't live here, or those who only surf weekends, 10 on a spot may not seem like many, but when you're used to getting it alone increases like that hurt your soul. From empty mid-morning/lunch surf's during the week to 20 out all day every day, it's a tough pill to swallow when it feels like Covid has made that happen overnight... and there's no going back.

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Solitude Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 9:16am

You make a good point Sprout. For those of us who hunt quiet beach breaks 10 people really is a crowd. Many part time surfers see a peak with half a dozen on it and think they’re in seventh heaven.

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FrazP Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 1:33pm

I think you both have summed the feeling up perfectly.

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tomrnoir Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 2:30pm

100% Sprout. Even though it seems endless, there will be a downtick once the world opens up again.

We've just got to ride it out.

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Sprout Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 4:53pm

Mate I hope you're right!! At least one quiet home season once things open up. Though I'll be outta here like everyone else asap haha.

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gggiiibbbo Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 9:32am

I live at Maroubra and the Covid crowds are crippling. At 7.30am yesterday, there were 200 people in the water for 3-4ft sth swell straight-handers with the occasional peeler. If they are all living within 5km, my name’s Kelly Slater!
There have been ugly incidents at the sth end recently. When it’s on, you’d have to be an idiot to not know the hierarchy. I’m not a A-grade surfer, so I don’t attempt to get waves on the best peaks when it’s pumping. I’ve only been here 5 years, so I’m no ‘local’ but if you keep your yap shut, nod at people, say g’day, sit wide-ish and wait your turn and go when it is your turn, you’ll get waves, Covid or not.

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Clive Rodell Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 9:48am

Yes, the 5klm rule being enforced would help!

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Blowin Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 10:13am

Sloppy seconds at an F Grade beach break doesn’t sound too appealing. Then again…..what do you expect from a place where the average house costs a measly $3M?

And that folks, is why city crew are waking up one day and thinking “What the fuck am I doing?”

Big shout out to those city crew who haven’t joined the dots yet. Thanks for your absence!

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batfink Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 3:18pm

I just bought the house next door, Blowin. Will be out in the line-up with you shortly. ;-)

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batfink Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 3:21pm

G’day Gibbo, even those crowds are much less than before the 5 km rule came in.

Not joking.

Good advice though, works a treat at any beach actually. Been surfing here for 30 years but I still surf that way. You can’t take it too seriously out there, it’s a crap shoot.

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harrycoopr Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 9:44am

Northern NSW is pretty well officially f$#@ed... Poor Lennox.

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Clive Rodell Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 9:47am

There are two sides to Localism. (at Least). If one is courteous and doesn't waste waves, often the locals will give you a few. Trying to 'take them uninvited' can end in tears.
The new breed of Covidiot surfer has brought a new era of stupidity and carnage. The new breed gets told Man on the Inside has right of way... try doing that several times in a row and you'll get dropped in by every local or sent in. One Internet Surf Coach recently got himself filmed at Avalon and said you have to sit way inside everyone to make sure you get lots of waves. That's insighting a Riot! A friend of mine recently got a piece of skull broken off by some idiot throwing his board, whilst paddling out and not looking behind. He has all sorts of ongoing problems from that incident.
Fitting into the Line-Up is a key element. Everyone should always be conscious of the 'Pecking Order' and the conditions. The break needs to be studied before paddling out and this is one thing the new 'Entitled' breed take no notice of.
Anything that stops the greedy and the carnage, is good in my book. If that's 'Localism' .... bring it on.

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batfink Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 3:29pm

“That's insighting a Riot”. Inciting, Clive!

My work here is done.

The biggest factor re the crowds at the bra is how many new surfers there are and how dangerous they are to be around. I make it a rule to never paddle behind anyone, so many will now dump their boards in the face of 2’ of whitewater! Without looking around! In days gone by they would be sent to the beach. Often 3 to 4 on a wave, and the dodging you have to do if you actually get one.

I’ll get my chance again, soon enough.

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Clive Rodell Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 6:50pm

I think that means we're on the same page (not the same wave). :)

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Jockhobbs Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 10:05am

The more a fading surfer avoids going softly into the light the more they can appear to present as a anachronism. Be it in Sydney, Lennox or Timbuctoo (or are they poor land locked slobs, naïve in the ways of our salty waterman).

I'm too young to reminisce and I'm not demented enough (yet) to bore anyone under the age of thirty with tales of yesteryear.

History is always rewritten fondly by the aging, it greases the rusty wheels on the way to St Peter and provides a false sense of comradery for those with little in common, bar location.

Take note, when the crowds return. Shut your pie hole and act like a grown up. The water is a public space to enjoy.

Note, I can see the surf from my place. Wow.

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Blowin Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 10:14am

Which general region do you live in?

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Jockhobbs Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 10:16am

Does it matter?

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Blowin Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 10:38am

Not really. I’m just generally interested in the demographics of Swellnet crew. Knowing the approximate region of commenters adds perspective to their opinions. When you say you can see the surf from your place I’m wondering if it’s over rooftops and powerlines at Bondi or through the Karri forest of the Great Southern.

For what it’s worth I think that labelling crew as anachronistic cause they don’t roll over and show their belly to the neophyte hoards is defeatist and sad.

BTW- “ False sense of comraderie for those with Little in common bar location “ is a poor attempt at invalidating the concept of community. You’ll have to try better than that if you want to be taken seriously. A couple of years ago a huge fire threatened properties around here and the volunteer firefighters saved a lot of lives and property. Their only motivation when risking their lives to do so was protecting the people who shared a common location. Just cause everyone doesn’t share the same passions and interests doesn’t mean the communal bonds holding them together aren’t very real and legitimate.

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Island Bay Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 5:46pm

Yes!

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Clive Rodell Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 6:57pm

Well said! Also well spoken for the unsung heroes. Obviously a chip on Jock's shoulder about people more mature than him. So not worth directly replying. Assuming he's actually called Jock Hobbs of course. If he is, I'll give credit for standing up and speaking and revealing who he is, with controversial unidirectional thinking.

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batfink Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 3:33pm

“Be it in Sydney, Lennox or Timbuctoo.”

That would be Timbuktu, Jock. An important sub-Saharan trade route stop in Mali.

I’m having a field day.

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zenagain Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 4:28pm

You sure do "no" your stuff BF (see above).

;)

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kaiser Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 7:50pm

And yet ‘hoard’ makes more than one appearance, and nobody bites. For shame…

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freeride76 Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 10:39am

is there even such a thing as a "false sense of camaraderie"

You either have it or you don't.

How it came to be is irrelevant.

Not sure about anachronisms either.
You'd have to ask hipsters aping 60's/70's surf culture about that one.
Not that that bothers me.

Blowin's picture
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Blowin Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 10:44am

I think that many in the city are so removed from even their immediate neighbours that they believe community is nothing more than a real estate marketing term.

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Spuddups Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 6:14pm

A sad state of affairs.

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Jockhobbs Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 10:51am

Woah, get back off the high horse. We are talking about surfing here and localism in the surf.

Sorry if I wasn’t clear.

In any event powerlines from Bondi, a view of the Pass, Dolphin Point....it still seems a little irrelevant unless the article was about complaining that something “special” has been lost on the north coast. And maybe that was more the point from a local, as declared.

So in reality it’s just more complaining about increases in population and the inevitable changes due to economic growth. It’s a losing battle that should not be be policed based on duration in a locality. That’s madness.

I’m in the regions.

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freeride76 Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 10:50am

appreciating, more than protecting. (edit: you changed your sentence so this makes less sense now)

Also appreciate your different, more sceptical/cynical perspective.

The "water is a public space to enjoy" is true enough, on the face of it, but also profoundly false in practice, not just here but all over the world.
Travel anywhere through the Pacific- which is the largest ocean on Earth and then come back with that statement.
You'll find local communities have practical ownership/stewardship/management of those inshore waters/reefs and if you don't respect that you're going to have a very difficult time.

Thats a slightly different issue but not really, as it applies to surf culture in those places.

Anyhow, good to hear different perspectives.

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Iain Stanley Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 10:58am

As you point out, localism is as much about knowing people in the lineup and feeling like you belong in the lineup. That comes from time in the lineup and time living in a spot and time getting to know the local people, the local shopowners, the local sports clubs, and the local pubs.

A lot of the frustration that’s generated in the surf comes from hordes you don’t know and don’t care to know coming in taking waves and taking places in the natural rotation in the water among people you know and spend time with. They might be nice people but they don’t bring anything to, nor contribute anything to the local community.

Whenever you’re in the water, good waves are limited within the time period you’re out there. Everyone’s happy to share with mates, and mates’ kids. Giving to people you know and love is a thing of beauty, as you touched on. When others come in and become the ‘takers’, localism sets in.

The pandemic, in quieter spots at least, has taken us back to how we want it to be. Good or not? Dunno….

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Jockhobbs Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 11:41am

Here’s the thing. The waves aren’t yours to give or take. This is at the heart of the issue IN THE WATER. It’s a place to be shared irrespective of your location on land. No?

It’s like telling people they can’t walk your favourite bush trail because it’s only 3 minutes drive from your home and you’ve been walking it for years.

To assume you have ownership because you live somewhere etc...

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Solitude Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 12:14pm

Paddling out to a spot you are not a regular at and carrying on like you are a total equal (or worse more entitled) would be the equivalent of me rolling up to a bush track and throwing my McDonalds wrappers on the ground.

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Jockhobbs Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 12:32pm

“Carrying on like you are a total equal”

Interesting

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Solitude Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 1:17pm

Meaning - same entitlement to the best and amount of waves as the crew who’ve put in the hours.

It’s not just surfing, skill, hours either. It’s looking after the place, picking up the rubbish, helping your friend’s kid back out into the lineup, understanding other’s situations. This comes from having a connection to a place.

Of course I think everyone is entitled to be treated equally in the general sense of life (and on the surface in the water too) but there are many more nuances when it comes down this topic: surfing and localism.

Surfing is unique due to the finite resource involved. However, patience, respect, humility and gratitude go a long way towards fitting into most lineups.

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batfink Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 3:42pm

This ‘crew who have put in the hours’ argument is a bit of a laugh. If you’ve put in the hours then you’re already getting more than your fair share of waves, unless it’s Maroubra where luck will play a significant part also.

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Solitude Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 7:49pm

You obviously read the post so you will understand there is more context than your short grab.
‘Hours’ (read also: conservation, community service, camaraderie, skin, experience, respect) .......not too dissimilar to many other facets of life I would’ve thought?

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happyppl Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 11:40am

that's a generalisation of locals, they are not all saints, my experience is look out for the one's showing character flaws of an ex (haha not!) ice addict, swearing aggro bhvur.
and his mates love it as long as they behave around their kids.
every where i go i pick up rubbish off beach...locals observed ...nah.
complain about poops in carpark but no public toilet, u are local, fix it.
calm down evrybdy just generalising,

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Blowin Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 1:39pm

.

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Jockhobbs Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 6:34pm

Best thing you’ve said

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Jockhobbs Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 11:01am

Hmmm bit churlish nitpicking grammar in a surf forum. However, thank you for your pedantic observation.

Your article is a little elitist. Mentioning how lucky you are not be living in said suburbs. Not very egalitarian but, that’s what the articles about. Not sharing with those less fortunate

Just try to keep your cool post lockdown.

Good luck to you.

I hope this made sense.

freeride76's picture
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freeride76 Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 11:08am

wasn't meant to be elitist.

If you surf it's a blessing/advantage to be close to the coast.

Cost of living/housing pressure on the coast is increasingly making that difficult unless you are wealthy.

In that respect I count myself very lucky.

But if I do get forced inland I doubt my attitude in the surf will change.
Give respect and hopefully ride a few fun waves.
Or, take up goat farming full time and spend spare time pulling goats out of barbed wire fencing.

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Jockhobbs Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 11:15am

No worries.

Just my opinion. Sorry if I offended. Was just looking at it through a different prism.

freeride76's picture
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freeride76 Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 11:25am

not offended so no need to apologise.
everyone has a different take on it.

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dandandan Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 11:29am

There's so many dots to connect here but I hope one of them surfers connect sooner rather than later is that the "surfing industry" doesn't serve us, and hasn't served us for decades. It serves capital. A big reason why crowds are going through the roof is not because people who can barely swim or know what a rip is have suddenly felt a burning desire to paddle out into an ocean they don't understand and ride waves. It's because the surf industry, and the various other industries that pro surfers sell surfing and the planet out to in order to make a buck, have encouraged them to do so. It serves capital and the wealthy, filling landfill with fast fashion and lineups with people that were very happy not being there until they were convinced it was cool.

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batfink Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 3:45pm

Very good tripleD. Absolutely right. That plus the advertising industry serving capital. Capitalism eating itself.

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Johan Wohlleben Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 9:46pm

Too true

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tango Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 9:45pm

Bang on, DDD. A bit like saying pro surfing is important and/or necessary.

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Robo Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 12:29pm

For sure surf is more crowded on MNC, no school, uni from home, shops closed, more working from home, still plenty of waves and places to go to avoid crowds even in the middle of town. If you can surf everyday it's all good, would hate to be a weekend only surfer though.
I can't complain my daughter has got the bug in the last year.

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Fireblade Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 12:31pm

'Locals' run surf schools to make a buck living on the coast, encouraging participation by all and sundry, then complain that the surf is crowded? It's a self-fulfilling prophesy...

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frog Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 1:11pm

Tales of winners and losers in the fallout of lockdowns with some trends for the worse not to be reversed.

Dirk Ziff should read this thread and he might understand why the messianic mission statement of the WSL to bring surfing to the masses as a cure for all ills, grates so much with his core audience.

The tales show how finely balanced the surfing pleasure equation is between pleasure and pain with crowds creating the tipping point.

Thankfully beachbreaks and very early sessions give a reliable escape hatch in many locations. But the contrast with the dreamy videos we see and reality can be stark.

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AndyM Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 1:11pm

“ It’s a place to be shared irrespective of your location on land. No?”

Yes and no.

And the surfing/bush track comparison is a poor one.

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Distracted Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 1:49pm

Degree of localism away from urban centres can be influenced by the type of your local break. If it is a point break then there is a concentrated take off and winds can further concentrate the crowds. If your local is a beach break it tends to spread the crowd and also regulates the beginners with the paddle out.

Re the surf schools, despite an abundance of schools I actually thought a couple years ago there were less groms in the water than when I grew up, possibly due to devices and gaming.
Post Covid though with school lockdowns and parents at home and taking their kids out , grom numbers are definitely back up.

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Spuddups Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 6:17pm

I agree. Hardly any groms these days. It's the mid 20's - early 30's learner that's the cause of the increase in crowds. At least where I live at any rate.

suckin-sand's picture
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suckin-sand Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 2:04pm

Maybe localism and racism was always based as much on fear of viruses as scarce resources. Look what happened to indigenous people in Hawaii and Australia in the 19th century.

Teeto's picture
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Teeto Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 2:22pm

disappointing

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velocityjohnno Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 3:08pm

I dunno on this one. Crowds are up, the new young people are lovely to talk to when you get around to it and you can meet some remarkable people, for example someone who has overcome cancer. It can be stoking to see them go further and achieve a late takeoff etc etc. It can be mind numbing when some just paddle inside the waiting pack time after time after time after time after time... Hopefully in time they will understand the rules of the lineup, if not you can have a lot of fun paddling the greedy ones so deep they are at the next break, and so introduce them to new people. In the meantime, surf faster, on rail more, and inspire through word and deed. There's definitely been a lost generation of groms, most taking it up are young adults into midlife. I guess Fox Racing and E-sports accounted for many groms.

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truebluebasher Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 3:29pm

Good read & worthy topic freeride76
*Hard to ever say first...there is local ancient history to this topic...
Yowies defended Beach > Bird -Carpet Snake People + Saltwater > Colonization + Seachange.
Can revisit timeless Beach incursions in one Iconic Dicathais Orbita Twin Spiral
1989 > Now resting in Brunswick Valley Heritage Park...tbb will include the story of giant Beach Police.
https://starlore.com.au/2014/08/19/aboriginal-spiral-lore-ngarakbal-gith...

Oz had 500 different Nations of peoples, each with their own ways & Languages.
As ever & always most lived along the Coastline centering on Bays & River Mouths
East Coast Saltwater tribes had their own Surf Gods / Fish Trap designer Surf breaks / Unique Surf Craft.
They all sang along the Milky Way Emu Dreaming Trails that are the basis of Today's Roads.

Any tribesman caught surfing another line-up would face the death penalty.
Strictly only nominated tribal ( Runners ) were permitted to paddle thru neighbouring lineups.
During Seasonal Ceremonies ocean side beach parades & paddle migrations were permitted.
Central East Coast Burleigh / Ballina Surf Carnivals drew 1,000's as today's Surf / Craft Festivals

1800's Convict Escapees tried their Luck south along the beaches
1st military Outpost was located at Border on the Beach to prevent Qld escapees into NSW.
1910's Train Loads of Bne > Southern Point Surfers banned NSW nude Surfers
19I9 Qld Quarantine Camp Points again banned NSW Surfers (Birth of D'bah Surf break)
1920's Board riders banned from Southern Points.
1920's Beachgoers gave way to Daily Planes- Joy Flights & still do.
1940's War Years - Yanks banned everyone from surfing occupied Southern Points
1950's Beachgoers gave way to Sand Miners > Bulldozers.
1960/70's Boardriders were banned from Southern Point Breaks
1960/70's Vagrant Act > NSW (Camping) surfies were raided & booted out by Qld Police
2010's Bodysurfers bans (2mths/yr) Hazardous Surf 'Warning' / Pathogens / Sharks / Lightning
Similar bans now grow in time & spread interstate lasting 3-8 days at a time.
2010's Cyclone Warning + Shark Alarms now clear Boardriders
2010 Private Surf Comps / Beach bars / Ads / Movie leases ban Locals weeks-months at a time.
Light Rail / Foreshore Leasing > Fit Classes > Coffee >Markets remove and hive off Beach Car Parks
SLSA Drone Zones now Clear an Patrolled Ocean/Beach Path & Landing Pad.
2020/21 Lockdown Cross Border bans > States 10km > Council bans - eg: The Spit / Surfers / Cooly.

tbb is only scratchin' the surface...Crew know that Dredging / Migrations & Dogs can also clear lineups.
If it all sounds a bit too dire > [Disclaimer] tbb is well into a self imposed 3rd year Lockdown.

tommy123's picture
tommy123's picture
tommy123 Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 3:40pm

Well then lol my local is south of Sydney . Moved to western Sydney be closer for work . But since lockdown start of June I can’t even get my toe wet . It sucks balls . Were I grew up and was born will always be my local . I will never surf Sydney beaches from all the crowds no thanks .

Roker's picture
Roker's picture
Roker Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 3:42pm

Slightly off topic.

Have two mates I surf with on the reg. Both fit, good surfers. Both solid family men, empathetic, community minded, ready and willing to help out. Both do jobs where these qualities are important.

In the water one is very conscious of making sure everyone is getting a fair crack. Will only ever sit inside if it’s well and truly his go. Could get heaps more waves if he wanted to. Only time he gets angry is if someone paddles out, acts like a nob and messes up the equilibrium.

The other turns into a sneaky, slimy, entitled rattlesnake psycho prick in the water. Totally selfish. Always on the inside, gotta have every wave. No concern for anyone else. When someone finally gets so frustrated they drop in on him, I’ve seen him, on multiple occasions, nearly maim people flicking his board, then express righteous outrage at the injustice of being dropped in on. Can create a terrible vibe in the water.

I’ve perhaps discerned subtle personality differences that account for this contrast. But I find it strange that two people who are so similar on land, who both behave in a way that promotes social cohesion, can behave so differently in the water.

I’m okay with localism, mostly. As the article suggests, I think it’s normal human behaviour.

I avoid the heavily localised spots. If there’s a local vibe in the water I’ll just sit inside, do my best to stay outta the way, and try for scraps. Always another day.

.

batfink's picture
batfink's picture
batfink Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 3:57pm

While every surfer will have a local, or two, I just think paddling out with the mentality that you are a local is a somewhat dismal and entitled state of mind.

It tends to lead to aggravation, usually your own. The locals at my ‘other’ local are invariably good and welcoming people, and the visitors tend to be respectful too, and there are a few spots inside national parks where surfers go but I don’t think anyone who lives around them can claim that ‘this is my local’.

These are my thoughts, feel free to embrace or reject them.

batfink's picture
batfink's picture
batfink Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 4:00pm

Congrats on the gig Steve, by the way.

Always interested to read what you put out. Hope it helps you pay the bills to stay local.

PAG's picture
PAG's picture
PAG Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 5:07pm

All comments good ( Sprout got it right) as an essential worker who can only has limited time late afternoons and weekends the crowds and etiquette has been horrendous everywhere and my new found FMO isn't helping. I will note the pre covid regulars surfers arn't the problem. cant wait for the pubs, weekend sport, shops, gyms to reopen so the crowds might thin. (if your a covid surfer please show some respect and share - dont paddle for every wave, Ta)

SR1's picture
SR1's picture
SR1 Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 5:16pm

The combo of covid travel restrictions and the relentless barrage of social media edits and photos from the insta generation have combined to create the perfect storm for crowds in the north west. 100 guys at tombies, 40 guys fighting over the postage stamp sized take off spot at centres...just another day in the N/W. The ocean belongs to everyone and this is an iconic surf destination but the place is being choked by humans to a level that is not sustainable from either a surfing or environmental perspective. Time for the east coast based surf media and those involved in it to give places like this a chance to breathe. Don't know how the regulars at Lennox or Angourie would feel if 60 car loads of west aussies turned up and took the place over for every swell over 2 ft.?? The good times are over

ringmaster's picture
ringmaster's picture
ringmaster Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 6:50pm

Pretty sure nearly all the people at 2 mile / Bluff this Winter are W.A crew from down south. Apparently half of Dunsborough is there right now.

Glad I did my trips there years ago.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 7:11pm

The best years were the early naughties ( 2000’s ) when the whole surfing world lost its shit over the mentawais. Big thanks to the surf media who for a few years acted as though the Ments were the only waves in the world and the crowd followed accordingly.

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ringmaster's picture
ringmaster Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 8:42pm

Spent a few weeks there on a trip in 2002 and it was brilliant!I It seemed like everyone was in Indo that year.

I share your sentiments.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 7:35pm

Totally, all the WA guys who usually go off to Indo and from Margs escaping the winter are up there. Not many East Coasters at all.

crg's picture
crg's picture
crg Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 5:33pm

Does a complete novice or even competent person ever walk into a boxing gym and tell the champ when he’ll be sparring in the ring and when he is to use the heavy bag and speed ball?
Nah...didn’t think so...

WarriSymbol's picture
WarriSymbol's picture
WarriSymbol Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 5:38pm

I've read some crap on this site over the years. This article might just take the cake.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 6:17pm

be interested to hear your take on it WS.
if you could be bothered to flesh out your objection.

WarriSymbol's picture
WarriSymbol's picture
WarriSymbol Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 7:20pm

Kapu or localism = privilege and entitlement
There is nothing 'elegant' about that.
Why would you need local encouragement to be on your best behaviour? Being a decent human in the water is a given.
How far from the beach someone grew their fisrt pube has little meaning if they are being a fuckwit. Why anyone would feel inherently entitled to calling the shots in a line up is beyond me.
If a surfer is doing the right thing in the water, they're sweet. It really should be that simple.
Sending people to the beach for throwing their board out when they can't duck dive doesn't achieve much as opposed to encouragement and educating of what and how beginners can improve.

When my old man was born the world's population was 2 billion. So, thousands of years to get to 2 billion. Less than one hundred to add another 5 1/2 billion. It is only going to get more crowded, everywhere.
Locals everywhere, quit whinging. Sure, the surf is more crowded during COVID lockdowns but you are still in a privileged position just by being out there. As a Melbourne based surfer you all have NO IDEA how hard mentally it is with surf being reasonably close by and being forbidden to go there. Knowing that as an ageing surfer with a dodgy shoulder the years of surfing ahead of me are far fewer than the magnificent ones that have passed.
I certainly had no idea how important surfing is to my mental well being until this. I have supported lockdowns for the benefit of community safety but I have found this latest one to be far more brutal than any of the others.

Be cool peoples.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 7:26pm

That doesn't really respond to much that was written in the article, but totally fair enough: I get your point.
hope you can get out there soon.

Fireblade's picture
Fireblade's picture
Fireblade Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 10:00pm

I'm stuck in the middle of Melbourne too.
The good news is that I finally found some water within 5kms of my house.
The bad news is I need to press flush to surf the bowl.

Finnbob the terror's picture
Finnbob the terror's picture
Finnbob the terror Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 6:54am

Hey Ws,
Have you thought about breaking the rules and just going for a surf? Banks are good from Gunna to spooks at the moment, conditions are perfect for the MP the next few days. Every holiday house around where I live has extra cars parked in the driveway with extended family staying there, roads are busy with people commuting to the city and back every day, my family's store is out of control busy with people we have never seen. I'm just saying if you were to go from your house straight to the surf have a surf and drive straight home I don't think you would be doing any harm. Especially if it helps with your mental health. I surfed near Portsea yesterday, 6 blokes out, 2 of us were within our 5km. 10 people in the dunes from god knows where waiting for us to come in, they all paddled out when we went in. At least 20 + people on 2 banks at Portsea all from outside the 5km. My self and my family have stuck to the rules, but we are lucky to live close to the coast.

Fireblade's picture
Fireblade's picture
Fireblade Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 9:59am

FB, I have been told that the Police have been checking surfers IDs at WesternPort (Shoreham & the Pines), and issuing fines to those more than 5kms from home.
I've stuck to the rules too, so for me, another winter of quality waves has come and gone unridden. With regard to mental wellbeing, I am experiencing that there is a positive correlation between declining physical condition and mental wellbeing. Ordinarily, I swim most days, turning laps at Nunawading pool. I swim for my health, and for my role as a patrolling member of Frankston Lifesaving Club. I can't do this under lockdown. It's more than 5kms to Mentone to swim in the bay. No matter how hard I try, there is no land based exercise that I can conjure that replicates swimming. As my physical condition deteriorates, the detritus seeps into my state of mind.
I'm old enough and ugly enough to survive this, but many are not. Recently my doctor spoke to me of the number of youth suicides she has had to attend. This to me is the real tragedy of the lockdown. This has to end if our young are to any hope of flourishing.

Garryh's picture
Garryh's picture
Garryh Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 6:17pm

Fireblade.....try Paddle resistance bands and a fit ball. Look they're not as good as the real thing...but better than nothing

Fireblade's picture
Fireblade's picture
Fireblade Tuesday, 31 Aug 2021 at 4:01pm

Thanks Gaz, I have a TotalGym, the kind Chuck Norris uses, and that's good for paddle strength. I do 500 reps a day on that, doing 100 reps each circuit through my home gym. The trouble is I'm just about gassed after 200 continuous reps, and that's different to continuously swimming 50 laps of a 50m pool in 50 minutes. That's the part I'm having trouble replicating. My latest effort is to attach two separate side-by-side triceps extension pulley systems to my ceiling, where I can add just enough weight so that I can complete the swimming stroke standing up, and endure 50 minutes of repetition. This is a new system I have just finished installing today. The initial trial results were outstanding so I think I'm on a winner with this one. Let me know if you want more details on this system. FB

velocityjohnno's picture
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velocityjohnno Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 12:14pm

Hey WS hang in there. There will be a time when it's open again, most probably as vax rates get to targets. You have done the right thing through this and I'll shout you a set any time I can. I can too feel this lockdown, and spreading cases in my local area is difficult in the mental dept. We still can't get to WA to be with our aging mums. Thank Christ my eldest got over in the 4 day window flights were open ("Dad, can I do it next week?" "No, get on ze plane now!") - he can now finish Uni face to face with no covid. After going through the big 2nd wave in Vic, he reports life is incredible, no worries, no restrictions, no masks, hop on a train anywhere, no need for restrictions. It's kind of hard to me to hear this, but I'm happy for him. He reckons WA has no idea whatsoever of what things would be like if it took off in Perth. Ignorance truly is bliss.

For the Melbourne crew who have followed the rules, thank you. It is now about buying time until the vax rates will permit an opening that largely stays open. Still don't know if I'll ever get back to WA.

Jockhobbs's picture
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Jockhobbs Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 6:42pm

I think it’s a great article as a nexus to ignite a good honest debate about the merits of localism in the modern world. Better than jet skis on the Goldy or other shallow muck.

andy-mac's picture
andy-mac's picture
andy-mac Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 6:01pm

Good article, feel blessed i can ride my pushy to my local and surf with a good crew... Does get busy at times but generally good vibe.
Try to treat unfamiliar faces well as I love to travel and I am the blow in then...

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 7:45pm

The COVID crowds on the beaches and especially Manly when there's half a decent wave is insane. I usually escape away on weekends but obviously can't at the moment and even going out there with the right attitude, low expectations etc, the amount of clue-less adult learners on mid-lengths etc and with no idea on etiquette does get to me at times. It's also people who shouldn't be out and need to learn the basics down South Steyne and earn their stripes.

I'm one that can work the lineup fairly well even when its busy but over the last week with it being the only options, at times it's unsurfable and a human soup. The quicker things start to move on again and people can travel the better.

I've got a few friends out of town and they're scoring pumping empty waves with the current restrictions, Savour it as once it opens again there'll be a huge influx again.

Can't wait for international borders to open again as well, as we're seeing those quieter corners being filled up with a lot more people than usual, like NW WA mentioned above, and we need that pressure to be released.

zenagain's picture
zenagain's picture
zenagain Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 7:53pm

I had a look at the Manly cams today and all day, looked like a zoo out there. Surf looked alright but goodness me it was packed.

I'm feeling for you guys down there, everyone wants a wave and you can't blame them for that, but getting one to yourself looks like a chore.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 7:57pm

Yep, futile really. Hence increased bushwalking time..

dandandan's picture
dandandan's picture
dandandan Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 8:39pm

Someone needs to stick a sign up in the sand that says "YOU ARE NOT DEVON HOWARD AND YOU NEVER WILL BE". Mid lengths are incredible boards, but far out it was a lot easier when people riding them were embarrassed to be on "fun boards" rather than thinking they're a style-lord on their new CI Mid.

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 12:18pm

Great title for a song. Anyone in a punk band?

dastasha's picture
dastasha's picture
dastasha Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 4:41pm

I'll put that down with "Copping the Jab" by Delta Variant.
Supporting the headline act Scomo and the Premiers

inzider's picture
inzider's picture
inzider Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 8:26pm

after only having less than 5 surfs this year with 3 of those in a pool, when i can finally get home and surf my local reefs, be fucked if im going to be kind and generous to some ball bag I dont know , too many cockheads surf these days, I love localism, regulated lineups and dont mind twisting off at fucksticks with no respect. Everybody is welcome if you are a GC and wait your turn.

ringmaster's picture
ringmaster's picture
ringmaster Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 10:23pm

So you've surfed TWICE in the ocean for the whole of 2021 but when you next get out there you're gunna 'regulate'?

Good luck with that.....

Vic Local's picture
Vic Local's picture
Vic Local Saturday, 28 Aug 2021 at 10:43pm

You better believe it ringmaster. Your 40 odd years on the reefs count for nothing. There’s a new sheriff in town called Inzider

inzider's picture
inzider's picture
inzider Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 12:23pm

vic local, you have no idea where im from so stick your torquay legend attitude up ya clacker, the surf coast is the most shit place to surf in victoria for wanker fuckwit in the water attitudes. Spent a year in torquay a decade ago and couldnt wait to leave the over run shithole. Boots is a good cunt and several others but by and large what a cunt of a joint.

inzider's picture
inzider's picture
inzider Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 12:19pm

didnt say im going to regulate , will suffer no fools though, and you dont know my local breaks in NZ and what they are like culture wise. Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay less fuckwits compared to say Winki though,

ringmaster's picture
ringmaster's picture
ringmaster Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 12:48pm

Waaaay less fuckwits than Winki?

That could be any one of a million beaches.

Horas's picture
Horas's picture
Horas Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 12:22am

The forest was shrinking but they kept voting for the axe.The axe was clever and convinced the trees that because its handle was made of wood,it was one of them.

Optimist's picture
Optimist's picture
Optimist Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 6:51am

Ive lived at many famous breaks over many years and always found that the crowd would find its own level and momentum especially when things became more serious and worthy of being there for a long session. There are always personalities at every break which are just who they are and you just let em go on what they want. There are always good waves to be had if your mind isn't bound to a quota. The greedy wave pig visitors always get sorted pretty quick with some almost artistic burns. I enjoy the banter in the water at the busy places, the old locals stories and always get a few odd good ones as well but just as often I will put on my backpack with a sandwich and water and walk several k's to be alone on a good but B grade wave and enjoy that just as much. Many many times to my surprise those B grade wave spots became a lonely and memorable A grade session of a lifetime.

Weatherman's picture
Weatherman's picture
Weatherman Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 11:06am

I tend to agree with your thoughts on this issue Optimist re crowds, banter and other options. Crowds do seem to find there own level quite often, and the good surfers usually manage to get the good waves, although not as many as they might like. Bells and Winki are examples of this I think, although there are times the crowds are just ridiculous and they aren't worth surfing. Luckily there are numerous B grade waves on the SC and great sessions can be had. I was curious what the situation in Sydney was like, and Craig has basically answered that question. I still consider myself incredibly lucky to still be able to surf during these times and feel for all the poor buggers who can't have a surf.

Sam Mozaffari's picture
Sam Mozaffari's picture
Sam Mozaffari Friday, 3 Sep 2021 at 6:45pm

Can surf alone or in a tiny crowd on the NB basically everyday if you're willing to drive up the beaches a little and sacrifice some quality on a different peak

Shaun Hanson's picture
Shaun Hanson's picture
Shaun Hanson Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 8:36am

Dont really care who thinks they own what at the minute ...But wanna remind those drifters we are in lockdown for a reason covid 19 is bad shit ....im on the MNC where its usually trackies and flanno but im seeing a lot of lorna jane and calvin kline under new faces ....we all gota think before we travel at the minute ...and i feel for melbourne over 200 days locked down ...

san Guine's picture
san Guine's picture
san Guine Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 10:28am

Slightly tangentially:

A very positive experience of localism (from my perspective) was operating at Supers in J-Bay when I was there in 2017(pumping waves for 3 weeks) and 2018 (not so good).
A pack of between 10-12 locals basically "block off" the top of the point (Boneyards) and no travelling surfer gets a look in. Unfair I hear you cry...but no. The locals regulate a line up full of frothing international surfers from all over the globe. If you sit near to (but not in) the local pack, and don't be a dick and wait your turn, you will get the"nod" from the locals. Got the nod to go on quite a few occasions...300 metre speed runs down to Impossibles are your reward.
One Zaffer (from Plett, I think) was making a total arse of himself and burning all the travelling surfers, but made it a bridge to far by hassling the J-Bay locals...he was soon sorted out by "Fat Frank", much to the amusement of all us visitors- and he never bothered any of us again.
I really miss travelling

tango's picture
tango's picture
tango Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 9:13pm

I was in JBay in 96 and I thought the local blokes were fine - tough, but fair. They had to deal with every kind of muppetry from every corner of the globe, many of whom should have been down at Point getting their takeoffs sorted rather than surfing Supers, and they could have been a lot worse. Those who behaved like f*ckwits were sorted out quick smart and heavily, but if you minded your manners and went alright, they'd hoot you into set waves. I'm not a fan of the violence I saw meted out, but there's no doubting it resulted in an orderly lineup. Boneyard was known to be out of bounds, so you had to settle for Supertubes. A bitter pill, to be sure.

Interestingly, the least friendly and most entitled person in the water was a well-known Australian with a house on the point.

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 1:19pm

san Guine - "A pack of between 10-12 locals basically "block off" the top of the point (Boneyards) and no travelling surfer gets a look in. Unfair I hear you cry...but no"

what counted as a travelling surfer?
Not from J'Bay? As in didn't live in the town?
Or Sth Africa?
Or?

Btw i don't mind this approach.

dastasha's picture
dastasha's picture
dastasha Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 3:24pm

"A pack of between 10-12 locals basically "block off" the top of the point

thats what I remember happening at Snapper when I was a kid. Paddling up to a wall of big men

san Guine's picture
san Guine's picture
san Guine Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 7:41pm

Agree GF, it worked well. However , I know of older locals who didn't like the new (ie. less than 20 years in J-Bay) blow ins... I guess it's a matter of perspective

Jamyardy's picture
Jamyardy's picture
Jamyardy Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 1:51pm

Its been about a decade since I surfed J Bay, certainly wasn't any blocking going on, however on the big day it was very hard to snag one, lots of frothing crew. Only one guy tried Boneyards, and only got a few, that was Baker. The only "localised" spot in the area the locals told me about was further down the coast.
Back to WA, heard all the crowd stories of up north over the last year or so. Apparently they had to close the gate at Quobba .. maxed out with 350 crew. The SW has been a mixed bag, some days busier than usual and some not too bad.

Vic Local's picture
Vic Local's picture
Vic Local Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 1:55pm

san Guine,
that's pretty much how things operate at my local. right hand point break with a similar set up to J Bay.
There's a bunch of regulars who set the line at the main take off spot and never paddle past each other. If a wide one comes in and the guy furthest inside isn't in the right spot, others can have a crack at it. Anyone paddling past the guy at the head of the line gets burnt. Simple and effective.
I torched some clown the other day who paddled past everyone and thought the next set wave was his. One of the boys reckoned it was one of the best drop ins all year. He said that I "timed my long drawn out bottom turn to perfection and the bloke is an absolute dick who behaves like a pork chop in Victoria and Indo".
Ahh good times.

** I dish out about one of these a year because most crew have worked out how things operate. Some people just need to be put in their place. If you let crew take liberties it just becomes an absolute free for all shit fight and that's no good for anyone.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 2:28pm

Wait,,,aren’t you the same whiny xxx who was bleating about getting run out of Port Campbell by the locals? I’d pay $50 to be there when someone puts one on Vic Local’s chin in front of his mates after Vic Local “ torched” them.

“Similar set up to J Bay”……lololol

tubeshooter's picture
tubeshooter's picture
tubeshooter Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 2:37pm

Sometimes fading a greedy prick into the pit is more than warranted . In fact, as a local it's almost an obligation when some out of town clown starts to cock his leg and piss all over the joint.
I still can't believe the amount of arrogant turkeys that either jump off the rocks and head straight for pole position before they even get their hair wet, or paddle out in a rip that leads directly to the inside take off spot and then expect everyone to be cool with it.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 2:49pm

Totally agree. I’d still love to hear of Vic Local getting served in front of his homies.

Vic Local's picture
Vic Local's picture
Vic Local Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 3:56pm

So you agree totally with tube shooter, but if I faded some greedy prick into the pit, you want to see me getting served. And you'd even pay someone $50 to punch me in the face.
You've got problems champ.

views from the cockpit's picture
views from the cockpit's picture
views from the ... Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 4:05pm

love is in the air...

Vic Local's picture
Vic Local's picture
Vic Local Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 4:20pm

This is the second time blowin has put a bounty on me on this forum. From memory, last time it was $100, so it looks like our relationship is improving.

tubeshooter's picture
tubeshooter's picture
tubeshooter Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 10:02pm

There might be a couple of others in the forum willing to chip in for the other $50 VL.
I'm not one of them by the way ,.... I'm broke. ;)

views from the cockpit's picture
views from the cockpit's picture
views from the ... Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 4:05pm

love is in the air...

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 4:59pm

"blowin has put a bounty on me"

Thanks for the chuckle Vic.

ringmaster's picture
ringmaster's picture
ringmaster Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 5:24pm

To be fair, having known VicLocal for a long time, I gotta say he is very civilised in the surf.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 5:30pm

Why is he such a clown on here? Is he a shouty lippy turd in the flesh?

ringmaster's picture
ringmaster's picture
ringmaster Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 5:35pm

Dunno?

Possibly an internet thing.

Vic Local's picture
Vic Local's picture
Vic Local Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 5:49pm

Oh be nice blowin.
I have a question for you.
Is the lower price you are offering for the beating based on a lower level of violence required, or whether you think someone would do the same job for half the price? I hope it's the former.

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 4:02pm

It's the result of years of mass immigration depressing wages.

(Couldn't resist)

Vic Local's picture
Vic Local's picture
Vic Local Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 4:58pm

And how will Aussie hit men ever be able to afford a house when the bosses are paying such lousy rates? It's just a bloody government Ponzi scheme I tells youse.

D-Rex's picture
D-Rex's picture
D-Rex Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 7:23pm

Disturbing to witness this online falling-out between 2 great mates - suggest a 'time out' for you 2 to reflect on how you can restore your affection for one another.

Panman's picture
Panman's picture
Panman Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 8:11pm

Fuck I love this forum

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 8:42pm

Haha, it's quite entertaining at times eh. At other times face-palm frustrating. Ebbs and flows.

barbielunchboxer's picture
barbielunchboxer's picture
barbielunchboxer Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 8:40pm

definitely believe in a healthy amount of localism. always loved surfing with the bodyboarders at all of the newcastle reefs when i was living up that way, they held it down and were tough fellas. but everything was orderly, no chaos and everyone got their turn if they were patient and respectfu. sometimes one or two alpha males prevents 30 alpha males trying to be top dog. not a lidda myself but i generally prefer to surf with them when its a bit bigger/heavier.
however, not too sure that its been quieter down in vicco since lockdown, ive been finding that its busier as heaps of people (like myself) are now 'working from home'. additionally it seems everyone from melbourne is shacked up in their expensive beach houses until this thing blows over

tango's picture
tango's picture
tango Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 9:39pm

Good food for thought, FR.

Everyone I know who is a decent surfer appreciates the order that comes with a fair local crew, particularly when the waves are good and froth levels are high. Whether the local crew are fair or not is often a matter of interpretation, but the most universal rules seem to be taking it in turns and taking your place in the hierarchy roughly according to your ability - ie if you're blowing take offs, you shouldn't be looking for set waves up the top/on the peak. In my experience, even recently in crowded cranking waves interstate, if you're competent and polite and show that you understand the system, the local crew are fine and you get set waves. Just get in line and don't waste it.

The thing I lament most about the accelerated changes wrought by covid is the concept of getting your stripes which someone mentioned earlier. Back in the day, especially if you were learning as a grom, you had to make your way up the greasy pole of the local pecking order. You started out in the shorey, got your act together and gradually made your way out the back. You were out there with your mates on the onshore days and the good days, and you were schooled in etiquette by the older surfers. If you were lucky enough to be in the water at a crowded name break, you sure as hell didn't have your old man pushing you into set waves. Some places had reputations for aggro, so you avoided that place until you could hold your own in the water. It's a shame that concept seems to have been deemed optional in the collective consciousness of the new entrants.

These days, we have the Vulnerable Adult Learner brigade all taking up surfing as it's permitted under lockdown. They have no idea and think the coast is for everyone so they may as well have a crack. And good luck to them, but I wish they had half an idea how dangerous and annoying they are. I think if we all gave them a bit of friendly advice commensurate with their ability they might get the message. Of course, that's not easy when they just paddled into your line or landed on top of you. Many new surfers seem to be from metro areas as well, or have a job where they're in charge, and perhaps this has a big impact on their expectations, which doesn't help.

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sypkan Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 12:20am

"... but the most universal rules seem to be taking it in turns and taking your place in the hierarchy roughly according to your ability - ie if you're blowing take offs, you shouldn't be looking for set waves up the top/on the peak

yes!

someone please explain this to the indo eurokooks and various below average adult flounderers everywhere...

"...The thing I lament most about the accelerated changes wrought by covid is the concept of getting your stripes which someone mentioned earlier. Back in the day, especially if you were learning as a grom, you had to make your way up the greasy pole of the local pecking order..."

and yes again...

when and where I learnt, you wouldn't dare paddle out in the crowded good surf if you didn't at least have some level of competency... now it seems people have no shame floundering around in good surf struggling with the basics...

I blame surf schools a lot for this mentality, they have no shame either often taking their kooks out on the best beach available, even if it's only 2 foot it's bad form... and teaches kooks little about the wider world of surfing and respect

get ya shit together on the beachy before you paddle out on the point. ...it's just plain as day common sense isn't it?

"...If you were lucky enough to be in the water at a crowded name break, you sure as hell didn't have your old man pushing you into set waves...."

speaking of bad form... what are these tiger mum benchongs thinking? ...seriously... how anyone can think that that's cool, and everyone is cool with it is beyond me... especially considering the little shits are usually good enough to get more than their share anyway... some fucken weirdass entitlement demigod child shit going on there...

"...They have no idea and think the coast is for everyone so they may as well have a crack. And good luck to them, but I wish they had half an idea how dangerous and annoying they are..."

this is an interesting one, because one of the first things most people tend to learn is that warm fuzzy shit of... 'no one owns the waves man' ...and... 'you need to take turns' etc. etc. ... but really, this is way more complicated than when someone initially explains it to you... and geez it can all still seem like a zoo, even when you are getting a bit competent... surfing ain't socialism... it's a limited resource, and it's dog eat dog hard and fast capitalism when the waves are at a premium... capitalism with rules, so people don't get too burnt, and can all play again tomorrow, ...if you're a kook, the set waves are not your entitlement, and even paddling out on the crowded point is not your place... get ya shit together on the close out beaches first, like most of the grumpy old dudes on the point had to years ago... back when it wasn't even as crowded... it's called respect... you don't get to run out onto the MCG if you can barely kick a footy, it just common bloody sense actually...

Island Bay's picture
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Island Bay Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 4:52am

Very well put. Thank you, Tango.

Can I just add, that even if you didn't grow up at a crowded, regulated spot, all this still seemed natural. I learnt to stand up on 1ft wind waves in Denmark in '84, and there was just a loose group of about 6 of us. Nobody else surfed. Very soon we did the Euro thing of piling into a VW Kombi and going to France, Spain, Portugal and beyond.

It was very obvious what the rules were, and while we were frothing to see and surf real peeling waves, you'd bloody well pull your head in when necessary.

There's been a seismic shift in general attitudes recently, not just in the surfing world. Entitlement rules, and it seems to blind many people to the point that they fail to watch and learn.

Sheep go to heaven's picture
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Sheep go to heaven Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 10:31pm

Vic , Winki is a good wave , but it aint no JBay , not even close

Vic Local's picture
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Vic Local Sunday, 29 Aug 2021 at 10:51pm

I’ve surfed both waves and J Bay is obviously a better break. But there are similarities in terms of crowds and etiquette. Both have an obvious primary takeoff spot with another option further up the point. Both have a paddle out spot that puts you inside the pack. Both have a pack of regular locals dominating the sets and lots of travelling surfers.
And if you behave like an entitled clown at either wave the result is the same.

Sheep go to heaven's picture
Sheep go to heaven's picture
Sheep go to heaven Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 7:47am

Yea Vic , crowd wise some similarities for sure . Good to see a bit of regulating going on .

" this is not 'Nam , this is Winki , there are rules ! :)

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ringmaster Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 8:50am

When did you surf J Bay, VL?

You never mentioned that before. Didn't even know you'd been to S.A.

*On a side note, when I spent a few weeks at J Bay in 95' I remember saying to my mates I was with that it was easier to get set waves out there than Winkipop. That was when I surfed Winki as much as anywhere around here but it was true. There was some cunt called Spowart who wore a Gath hat that had an eye painted on the back with 'J Bay local' and his little blond semi pro mate who was also a knob. Other than that it was happy days. Friendly crew and no hassles whatsoever.

*The one eyed slider wasn't around that year.

and Jeffreys shits on Winki. Totally different paddle out too.

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Island Bay Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 9:20am

We may have met, ringmaster. Spent a bit of time in SA 94-97, but only surfed J-Bay 5 or 6 times.

Surfed all the other right points between Cape Town and East London, though, and I generally found the locals to be great to surf with. Friendly and courteous, but you definitely knew not to fuck with them. Easy to navigate lineups, because they were well controlled and the rules were clear.

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Vic Local Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 9:59am

'95 too. From mid August to Mid September. I travelled overland from Kenya by bus, hitching, and even a dhow from Mombasa to Zanzibar.
I remember Spowart too. One day he was screaming at a travelling surfer from the beach telling him he was getting a beating when he came in. One of the other locals said "the only time that bloke would ever stick up for a black man was if a foreign surfer was involved".
The rest of the crew were great, in particular the lady who owned the Billabong shop. I've forgotten her name, but she was so nice. I stayed at her place for the last few days, and she cooked amazing dinners for a few of the travelling crew, and even arranged a lift to the airport for me.
SA had won the RWC so the whole country was still pumped. Most conversations started with "Did you see the World Cup final?" (and that was a couple of months after the game).

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san Guine Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 10:13am

VL and IB,
I was there in '93 and again in '97, there was a dodgy sports bar, just near Supers...saw some heavy beatings handed out there, especially by the Chokka fishermen.
Overall though, the Zaffers are super friendly and very hospitable.

Island Bay's picture
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Island Bay Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 10:27am

Good to hear travel stories. Geez, I miss it!

VL, that sounds like an epic trip. Cheron Kraak, wasn't that her name?

san guine, yep I found them very hospitable too. Got invited to stay with total strangers i several places (Seal Point; Vic Bay; Mossel Bay), just from chatting in the surf.

Meat and rugby - they love that!

Vic Local's picture
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Vic Local Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 10:57am

I don't think it was Cheron judging from the photos on the net. The lady I was referring to was a big lady, (not tall and I'm saying that as nicely as possible)
I was walking back to my accommodation (old house with a couple of caravans on it) after a cold surf, and this lady yelled out from the surf shop to come back for a coffee after I got changed.
We just hit it off and she would regularly invite travelling surfers in for coffees and meals at her place. I'd been doing some hard travelling through Eastern Europe and Africa, so the offer of a coffee was pretty inviting. It became a bit of routine with 3 or 4 of us having a mid morning brew out the front of the surf shop after dawn surfs. Good times.

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ringmaster Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 12:31pm

Her name was Heather. Nice lady and super friendly. Wouldn't mind a couple of beers for how many times she said to us in her beautiful clipped Saffa accent:

"You must come to P.E with my friends and I"

We got to Port Elizabeth........but only after we were done at Jeffreys and our reliable, watterlogged little Opel Cadet chugged and belched it's way up the coast.

*We watched the rugby World Cup final (S.A V All Blacks and S.A won!) with the local crew in that pub not far from Supers. Place went nuts. Next day the surf was a bit unorganised but still good at 6 - 8 with a cupla bigger ones. Saffas all mega hungover and the morning session peaked at about 12 or 13 people out.

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Vic Local Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 12:55pm

Heather, that's the one.
I was on one of those year long round-the-world tickets that expired on Sept 14 (getting back to Oz for my brother's birthday).
Had planned to take the train from PE to Joburg but the surf was absolutely cracking so I rang up the airline and booked a ticket on an 18 seat twin engine job.
Surfed my brains out on the final day, and Heather got me a lift to the airport in her big merc. As we were driving through a rough neighbourhood the young driver pulled out a fucking hand canon from under his seat and held it up while driving. "We won't get car jacked now" the driver said.
Armed security, big merc, twin engine jet. I left SA like a rock star!!!

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seaslug Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 3:54pm

Classic memories VL, good one

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brutus Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 10:17am

saw 4 guys going out at Winki last week on rubber boards , only beginners....followed by 3 women beginners......
as far as J-bay goes vs Winki up to 6' J-bay much better ....over 6 ' Winki rules, as J-bay closes out and gets fat!
I know which one I preferred!

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inzider Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 7:07pm

"And if you behave like an entitled clown at either wave the result is the same"
Ive surfed your spot probably 50 times and whenever its good most of the time your "locals" are burning each other with multiple "locals'' on one wave. I guess etiquette at this spot is subjective because ive had surfs there where ive sat wide waiting for a long time for the odd wide one that misses the "local" pack to be snaked by a "local" who had just had one from the last set, Up the inside snakey cunts are rife. Ive never paddled off the button and expected a wave like "locals"do. Ive waited my turn on multiple occasions not to ever get a turn because "locals" dont want to share their sand pit. I understand Im a blow in but how you romanticize about ettiqutte is dream cone material. I bet you are one of the old guard "locals" who rides a 7.0 just so you can snake more waves,

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Finnbob the terror Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 6:30am

One thing I have noticed that seems to be creeping into the lineup. Mainly nonlocals who are lacking skill, wave judgment, and fitness but also some long-time local surfers who may be a little lacking in skill and fitness. Is when they paddle up the inside for the next set wave, everyone gives them the benefit of the doubt, they either fuck the take-off or miss the wave, then think they have the first option on the next wave of the set because they missed the last one. Finally, someone gets jack of it and drops in on them and they crack the shits for getting dropped in on. I think the best line of attack is to mention to this person that if they paddle up the inside one more time and fuck it up, the next time I'm just going to go and drop in on you. They soon pull their head in and stop.

JackStance's picture
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JackStance Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 9:34am

Another SW article on localism, and not a single mention of Aboriginal people. Again.

You are pissing in the wind writing about localism, while living in Australia, an omitting to mention the hypocrisy and racist underpinnings of localism on [-O-] stolen land.

It's 2021, it is not a free ride.

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Robo Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 2:26pm

.

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joesydney Wednesday, 1 Sep 2021 at 1:04am

First thing I mentioned…. Go to the first comments

zenagain's picture
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zenagain Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 10:35am

Great travel stories chaps. I'm surpremely jealous. J-Bay has always been a bucket list wave for me and I'd love to visit SA in general.

Actually, Winki has been a bucket list wave too.

views from the cockpit's picture
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views from the ... Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 10:57am

WTH JackStance???
Wrong thread pal!

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phnud Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 11:33am

Just before the 10k radius shrank to 5, and locked me out of the surf, I was out at my local. Crowded, as always, I took off on a left and some guy dropped in. Nothing new, right? I called him off. Nothing. He held his line. I fell back to my 70s call-off and yelled, Fcuk off. He cutback and shoulder barged me off my board. After finishing up, he paddled up to me, all bulging veins and walnut face muscles, threatening to, you know, punch my head in and blah blah blah. Brave local man kills 60-year-old midget, would read the headline.

Effective localism relies on a gang mentality which is based on cowardice. His intimidation worked because I know that there are a bunch more super aggro dolts ready to pile in, no questions asked. So, even if I was an MMA cage fighter, the numbers'd still be against me.

Of course this is rhetorical - I'm not an idiot - but why isn't longevity a relevant metric? I've been surfing longer than that prick has been alive. I respect the line-up. Mostly because it's the right thing to do, but other times out of fear. Actually, the point to which I respect the fcuking line-up is detrimental to my wave count! Seriously, the number of people who pull back when the waves get bigger has increased exponentially.

I find little joy anymore in this thing I've wrestled with for nearly 50 years. I'm not sure that localism is the biggest problem; I think it might dead etiquette, or deadiquette, as I'll now call it.

John Snow's picture
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John Snow Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 11:47am

In my little beachside abode , the main beach has been packed, the last few weeks the worst i remember it. Short Stroll through some bush and dunes to another spot and not a sole out. Scored it to myself for 3 hrs pumping over the weekend. Kept looking back to the track thinking hope no other (insert word of your choice) comes out....thinking what would i do if they paddle out and start taking the inside....probably nothing but I had bad thoughts.
A lot more people seem to be either taking up surfing and spending time at the beach in general, which is funny, its always been there, why take a "pandemic" to see what's out there.
Just stay on the shit side!

Sheep go to heaven's picture
Sheep go to heaven's picture
Sheep go to heaven Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 12:07pm

Yea , J Bay , early 90s , At 3 foot it was packed but at 6-8 a lot harder to get out . Surfed it big with Curren , Brock Little , Hardman all the Rip Curl crew were in town staying at Derek Hynds castle up near the point
To this day still the best surfing i've seen was Curren swinging late and dropping into a solid 8 foot bomb out there . I was scratching to get over this thing and he's swung late, stands up under the pitching lip and makes it with ease !

booman's picture
booman's picture
booman Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 12:45pm

Meanwhile in NZ, they cannot go surfing. Super low population, same coast line length as the US. They are not happy!

inzider's picture
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inzider Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 3:23pm

plenty of people surfing my part of the nz coast from what ive heard

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Spuddups Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 5:35pm

One more day of complete lockdown for everywhere except Auckland; they've got another two weeks at least. We got pretty complacent over here, basically life as normal since May last year. It was a bit of a shock to the system getting locked down again. They reckon we'll have most people vaccinated by December. Chances are we'll have another lockdown between now and then. Hopefully after that things will start to settle down a bit. It's a shit sandwich that's for sure. On a positive note I've got a heap of things done round the house, and have also made a nice new twinny to ride when I go surfing again.

OHV500's picture
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OHV500 Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 1:35pm

I think this lockdown situation (Vic) has brought out the best in people and the worst in people. Surfing since 1970, I can remember fierce localism from older type enforcers to the younger crew (who just copied the old pricks). IMO the lockdown has let the localism card be played with a false sense of righteousness. Some of the old pricks and their disciples are still around.
No one has any more rights than anyone else to the water. Really it has just let the dickheads be dickheads, and it seems our sport is full of them.

John Snow's picture
John Snow's picture
John Snow Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 2:24pm

I actually agree, it comes down to more a level of respect when surfing any break, whether it be local or not. The idea of localism on at least the middle part of the east coast of Australia is ridiculous. If i was surfing anywhere and some idiots decide they can continually take the inside and hassle, ill treat them with a swift mouthful of abuse and if need be, a punch to the throat.
Is that localism, aggression or just teaching others how to have some respect?

OHV500's picture
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OHV500 Tuesday, 31 Aug 2021 at 10:20am

Ummm ... think it could be part of the problem.

John Snow's picture
John Snow's picture
John Snow Tuesday, 31 Aug 2021 at 10:58am

Yes, the lack of respect any where in the ocean, and outside of it, is part of the problem......

Leebo20's picture
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Leebo20 Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 2:27pm

The one that gets me is some Aussie's you bump into in some spots in Indo who think there locals or own the place.

Sad human beings

wally's picture
wally's picture
wally Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 3:30pm

Back in the 70s, you only had to have surfboards and QLD plates and drive into the Yamba pub carpark and you would regularly have some local threatening you. Country soul.

overthefalls's picture
overthefalls's picture
overthefalls Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 3:51pm

Hey Wally, since the state-wide lockdown, that region has been like the 70s all over again, especially over the river at that breakwall wedge where the locals even tell the Yamba crew to go back to where they came from!

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velocityjohnno Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 4:29pm

Over 20 years ago I was taught to glass, sand and gloss polish by a man who had spent time in Hawaii. He also tried to convey the spirit of Aloha and the influence of the Duke, which I understood to be a sharing, and kindness, and looking out for others in the surf. Here I read the Hawaiian royalty had their own breaks, with threat of death to commoners on surfing them. Not sure how that fits into Aloha, but it seems we're not the first to have problems of people blowing in to breaks and localism.

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gavin007 Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 7:25pm

I was wondering how it would be when I paddled out for the first time down Torquay way the Saturday after the last long Melbourne lock down ended. The first guy I spoke to was a local and as friendly as. Lesson: you be nice and respectful to all, all will be nice and respectful to you.

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NDC's picture
NDC Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 10:15pm

There is no localism on beach breaks on my stretch - northern beaches. Sheer weight of numbers has made the concept irrelevant. It’s mainly everyone for themselves and the covid crowds have been awful but on the odd occasion You get a groove on in a gap somewhere

Not sorry to see localism fade away as it always saddened me and I don’t believe it created any virtuous order - it was just better the coz syd was a city of 2m rather than 5m people - I suspect the same is true in most places - localism seemed to me to serve a small entitled few only and physical intimidation was too often it’s ugly handmaiden (not caring for place, picking up rubbish, environmental stewardship from what I have seen)

My personal solution is to make the most of it when I can. Try not to take it or myself too seriously and get my neice to teach me to skate small ramps in local skate parks - it’s a new and exciting complement. I get to know my neice better and throw her a few well deserved dollars + I’m kinda proud of myself as an old bloke picking up something new... plus, hope for sone respite in surf crowds whe vaccines hit 70/80%

I hear sone skaters saying the parks are ridiculously busy - but I don’t know any better so it’s water off a ducks back to me

GuySmiley's picture
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GuySmiley Monday, 30 Aug 2021 at 10:48pm

Reading the article and through everyone's comments I thought fark this is all very depressing and then came blowin's and Viclocal's lil spar and the world was good again. Great work guys and all that talk made me want to surf Winki again, but it sounds very crowded these days, bummer.

jasper99's picture
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jasper99 Tuesday, 31 Aug 2021 at 2:27pm

Jesus Christ this thread is full on reading (didn't read bugger all but I get the gist).

COVID has been good for surfing a) if you are a board or wetsuit manufacturer for example b) love surfing with loads of new mates and c) you are blissfully unaware of such things like localism and partaking in surfing etiquette.

COVID has been real bad for surfing if a) you need a new board or wetsuit b) hate surfing with new faces at every beach especially your once quiet local and c)you like to see the same faces at your local and if it is a new face they stick to the rules/etiquette.

The later paragraph problems along with surfcams at beaches that don't warrant them or are not welcomed by locals are only fueling the fire with these issues. With Instawank, Faceshit and the new "V(f)logg" sensations surfing has lost most of it's meaning and most surfers these days are more worried about a dumb "Like" then actually going surfing for the pure enjoyment of it and Covid has brought more and more of these types out into all line ups, juiced up on adrenaline from their last selfie, or checking in or simply telling 6 of their mates where they're surfing and that they should join them.....

Seems these days nothing is sacred when pursuing waves and what blows me out is how many of the older generation also love to get a "Like".

servant's picture
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servant Wednesday, 1 Sep 2021 at 11:10pm

SMH....how is our Lord Jesus Christ involved?

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servant Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 9:50pm

Hi Jasper99,
thank you for your sincere apology today. God Bless you.

See your comment #757029, which I got only via my email. It's weird as it doesn't appear in this thread! Here it is anyway, I quote:
"Sorry mate....thought it may be better using that term rather than some of the other language expressed here. No offence intended."

It looks like there's a glitch in the system somewhere because your comment doesn't show up in this thread any where that I can find.
I'll duly report it to the Swellnet powers that be, because I wonder how many other replies actually do not ever make it into the thread?

Indeed some of the language on here sometimes is disgusting. It is not the local surf carpark but an open public platform. Every single comment that is posted is technically subject to the broader publishing laws of Australia, and of course the Swellnet Code of Conduct ,which is clearly available on this site.
I try my best, but fall short too often. I believe I can't get into too much trouble if I always keep my choice of words to all people, spoken or written, polite, respectful and kind, i.e. suitable for kindergarten children, and Grandparents.
I try to live by this:
"Whoever guards his mouth and tongue keeps his soul from troubles".
Proverbs 21:23 NKJV
God Bless you

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Friday, 3 Sep 2021 at 6:18am

Servant - it was a glitch - Jasper99's comment was accidentally deleted. You initially posted twice, then edited the second post so it was blank. Jasper replied to one of your posts, and whilst tidying things up (removing the blank post), I deleted the wrong post of yours - the one with the reply! So, t'was my errror, sorry Jasper.

servant's picture
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servant Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 10:21pm

P.S. jasper99, Hope your score some nice waves soon

jasper99's picture
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jasper99 Friday, 3 Sep 2021 at 8:40am

Too easy. Thanks.Fingers crossed we all get waves without incident.....

Solitude's picture
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Solitude Tuesday, 31 Aug 2021 at 4:18pm

One thing I notice (and have for years) is the change in surf check ritual. There are very few crew who can look at the waves without their phone. This instant broadcast and 'group chat culture' must contribute to crowds more than anything IMHO.

freeride76's picture
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freeride76 Tuesday, 31 Aug 2021 at 4:23pm

the only time I use my phone is to tell my mate: you really missed it, should have been here yesterday/an hour ago.

seaslug's picture
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seaslug Tuesday, 31 Aug 2021 at 5:15pm

Good one FR76

simba's picture
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simba Tuesday, 31 Aug 2021 at 4:33pm

yeah see that all the time dicks turn up pull out the phone and tell the world......look around the car park and there are a few doing the same trick ....while adjusting the man bun.......

ringmaster's picture
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ringmaster Tuesday, 31 Aug 2021 at 5:05pm

Shits me no end that mentality. I won't even ring my friends.......they should know if it's good.

I've paid out on the odd dickhead or 2 pulling that maneuver when I've been in a certain 'mood'. Each time the reaction was the same. A slack jawed, open mouth stare with the phone still stuck to the ear.

Fuckwits.

Solitude's picture
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Solitude Tuesday, 31 Aug 2021 at 6:03pm

Keep fighting the good fight ringy.

Same breed of surfer that walks down the beach track (usually in the sort of clobber you’d wear on a night out, each with matching takeaway coffee cups) as I’m coming in after the early and ask ‘is it any good?’

Vic Local's picture
Vic Local's picture
Vic Local Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 4:25pm

I do enjoy taking photos of pumping surf and sending it to mates** telling them it's going orrrrfffff

** who live in Canada and England, Sydney is too close for my liking.

clif's picture
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clif Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 6:28pm

I'll take the waves and lineups I've had in Canada and UK over your coast any day, mate ;-)

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Southside Rodeo Tuesday, 31 Aug 2021 at 9:05pm

Ok, so I love to lurk and smirk but, I'm rarely, if ever, moved to write. But, something about this topic just wiggled its way under my fingernails and has me agreeing wholeheartedly with Ringmaster...yeah nah. Crowds on the surfcoast have been building for years but, the last 18months has been a wall to wall shit show. Any break, any time of day. But, honestly I think Steve has been hanging out with Chas and Derek a little too much and lure of pulling the pin and tossing the hand grenade into the lineup (so to speak)was too much to pass up. Judging by the comments section here, I'd say well played Mr Shearer, well played.

ringmaster's picture
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ringmaster Tuesday, 31 Aug 2021 at 9:16pm

Good first post mate!

Having read a lot of FR's stuff over the last few years, I reckon he's on to the collective 'real' surfers POV as anyone.

Look forward to his next instalment.

suchas's picture
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suchas Wednesday, 1 Sep 2021 at 9:32am

Anyone want to start a GoFundMe page? The Cooly boys can't cope and are feeling unloved without a 1000 surfers out the bay-
https://www.mygc.com.au/watch-coolangatta-locals-launch-their-own-advert...

zenagain's picture
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zenagain Wednesday, 1 Sep 2021 at 11:07am

What's a senchul?

AndyM's picture
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AndyM Wednesday, 1 Sep 2021 at 11:10am

I thought saying chin chin was a senchul.

suchas's picture
suchas's picture
suchas Wednesday, 1 Sep 2021 at 11:38am

38 sec mark- drop-ins a senchul

ringmaster's picture
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ringmaster Wednesday, 1 Sep 2021 at 1:10pm

Translation:

Come to Coolangatta, give us as much money as you can then FUCK OFF.

and don't even think about paddling out if the waves are on......cause we'll gang up on you and burn you and telly ya to piss off back to where you came from.

mpeachy's picture
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mpeachy Wednesday, 1 Sep 2021 at 10:30am

Being a local in Sydney just means you have a few million to spend on property. Makes more sense in smaller towns though, if you commit to that lifestyle then it makes sense that you want to protect the benefits of it.

angatta cool's picture
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angatta cool Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 10:32am

What a ridiculous generalisation.
Who do you think rents all these investment property's?
Millionaires?

mpeachy's picture
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mpeachy Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 10:44am

Definitely not the same demographic that lived near the beach and surfed 20-30 years ago. Had a look at a house on the northern beaches the other day that was about 5 kays from the beach in a transitioning housing commission area on a small block with no natural light, guiding $1.9m.

angatta cool's picture
angatta cool's picture
angatta cool Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 10:54am

A lot of us grew up here and are still here renting while investing elsewhere.
Works good if you like living in a big city.
Good dollars ripping off the rich blow ins

mpeachy's picture
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mpeachy Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 10:56am

That works if your parents lived in the area. Not so helpful if you grew up elsewhere and discovered surfing despite not growing up on the beach.

freeride76's picture
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freeride76 Wednesday, 1 Sep 2021 at 11:02am

One observation I will make.

The most brutal darwinian burnings I've seen in the last 18 months have been adult learners on kids.

Babes on logs, kooks on midlengths see a kid on a wave and there's no mercy.

I tell my 11 year old son, give a whistle or hoot and let 'em know you are there, if they pull off, great keep going.
If they don't pull off then suck it up and let it go.

they very rarely pull off.

dandandan's picture
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dandandan Wednesday, 1 Sep 2021 at 11:50am

I'd agree with this too. Most of them don't seem to know how to pull off, their rides usually ending with them heading far off into the shoulder and sliding off the back - often pooshooting their board out from underneath them as they fall into the water. Dangerous, but at least they're predictable. It'll be a wonderful day when surf brands stop courting this cashed-up demographic and let them carry on blissfully living their lives without taking up surfing. All of us - surfers, non surfers, the environment - will all be happier for it.

crg's picture
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crg Wednesday, 1 Sep 2021 at 1:34pm

Me: sitting on outside peak chatting to old boy locals between sets

Beginner on soft top (Beg): paddles out on the inside and takes first set

Repeat * 2

Me: after 15 mins of casual chat, paddles for next set
Beg: paddles as well
Me: “Yes mate”
Beg: keeps paddling
Me: polite “Oi”
Beg: keeps paddling
Me: nasty “Oi!!”
Beg: looks at me with bewilderment but pulls off

Me: gets fun wave to beach
Beg: gets next wave in set burning 60 year local
Me: “mate you just dropped in on that guy”
Beg: (with a smile) “lovely day for a soft top” and paddles off to head of peak

Just a normal scenario these days.

jasper99's picture
jasper99's picture
jasper99 Wednesday, 1 Sep 2021 at 3:04pm

Had a very similar experience this morning

Guy catches a wave. I wait my turn in the spot. He paddles back out 4-5 metres up my inside and paddles for very next set wave.I drop in.He gets all shirty with me. I explain what he did and why I faded him. According to him I'm at fault and should learn the rules. I told him I respectfully disagree (insert profanities here) and asked what heat he was in?

Been surfing that spot for well over 30 years and am aware of the rules and also of etiquette. I know this guy and he said he lost all respect for me to which my reply is if he respected me in the first place why snake me?

Ahhhh surfing.Such joy

zenagain's picture
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zenagain Wednesday, 1 Sep 2021 at 3:11pm

touché.

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Wednesday, 1 Sep 2021 at 11:10am

yep chicks are the worst

overthefalls's picture
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overthefalls Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 11:05am

Surfing and Gender Equality

Blowin's picture
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Blowin Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 4:59pm

I’d rather watch that fella surf than 90 percent of the tour

simba's picture
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simba Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 6:18pm

funny as and the bloke rips...

inzider's picture
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inzider Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 9:13am

angatta cool's picture
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angatta cool Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 10:36am

This comment system is neanderthal

velocityjohnno's picture
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velocityjohnno Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 2:25pm

You most probably have around 2% Neanderthal DNA

overthefalls's picture
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overthefalls Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 10:57am

Hey Inzider,
That video you posted is hilarious. I checked out some of the other ones made by Raglan Surf Report and got plenty of laughs: great satire of localism and other aspects of modern surf culture.

inzider's picture
inzider's picture
inzider Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 5:12pm

Yeah he has some good material allright.
His social commentary about surf culture is on point(no pun intended). I'm glad I don't live in Raglan but up the points to outside indicators and beyond is pretty sweet for a mellow crew

zenagain's picture
zenagain's picture
zenagain Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 11:03am

Is that Piha?

Got some great waves there and the locals were cool. Everywhere we went we got good waves and the locals were sweet as bro.

Enzed- great place.

inzider's picture
inzider's picture
inzider Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 5:23pm

You probably showed respect and were rewarded appropriately.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 11:08am

Yeah Raglan surf report vids are great!

Jockhobbs's picture
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Jockhobbs Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 2:16pm

There’s a key piece missing here.

People who own property and hence pay exorbitant council rates should probably get first dibs. After all it’s their money that maintains the surrounding infrastructure..

Transients and renters stand in behind these locals in the “pecking order”

Just a thought.

Jockhobbs's picture
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Jockhobbs Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 3:06pm

So it’s an article than was bound to boil down to the definition of a local.

A) born local and multi generational
B) lives within of couple of kilometres from the break
C) owns their home in the area usually close to parents
D) rarely surfs other breaks

So is this a true definition?

Well of course not. There’s too many traits and permutations.

The worst is the “blow in local” doesn’t fulfil any/much of the above criteria but, acts like a super local and comes down harder on other blow ins to ingratiate themselves. A bit like immigrants who hammer new arrivals to a country in a desperate attempt to penetrate the clique.

Fireblade's picture
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Fireblade Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 3:51pm

Should all 'non-locals' then be required to stand in the car park and make a statement, an 'acknowledgement of locals' before entering the water?

Jockhobbs's picture
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Jockhobbs Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 4:04pm

Yes, on bended knee.

Then wash their 12 year old ute for a week.

Because let’s face it. We are now getting to the heart of this article. Sanctimonious locals wanting their arses kissed in and out of the water. Real and Blow in locals.

Anymore suggestions on what these people deserve in payment? Dog walking? Free middies of New? Don’t look at them? Stay the fuck away?

Fireblade's picture
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Fireblade Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 4:17pm

You present as an intelligent individual Jack, I have appreciated reading your commentary. This post has got me thinking, but I'm a little too busy to flesh out a paper, so I jotted down some points on my whiteboard as I was cooking my dinner. These are a few themes worth exploring re the topic of localism:

Regulation as a social construct: theories of regulation (public interest/private interest/capture) versus the free-market approach

Living close to a break offers a surfer/participant a competitive advantage through familiarity (proximity + repetition)

Anthropology: Tribalism as a social construct

BTW, I am not, and never have been, 'a local'...

Jockhobbs's picture
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Jockhobbs Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 6:39pm

White board in the kitchen jotting down Swellnet reply notes.

This is the best idea in 250 plus notes.

But, for sure it’s a study of primitive man and his ability to socially self regulate during the current apocalypse.

Fireblade's picture
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Fireblade Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 7:34pm

Okay, so starting with regulation.

Surfing applies the 'free-market' approach to regulation, in other words, an environment where the market determines the level and extent of regulation required for order to be maintained, an approach that is rarely successful in any human endeavour. So with surfing, it's a self-regulating free-for-all, where 'locals' would prefer to determine the relative currency of any participants, and impose a preferential hierarchical structure that favours them. Of course, those not in the inner circle don't like this arrangement, hence society's preference for regulation, where decisions are purportedly made more objectively, based on the rule of law. Without regulation, surfers snake each other, drop-in, and act as marker buoys for 'locals'...

That said, surfing does adhere to regulation when it suits itself. The capture theory of regulation applies to surfing when it serves an explicit purpose, specifically, in the contest environment. Here the regulation of the surfing arena, under the pretence of being in the public interest, is captured by those being regulated. It is interesting to note that at the highest professional level, the 'locals' step aside to allow 'their' break to be monopolised by 'blow-ins' (perhaps this is merely an acknowledgement of a preferential hierarchical structure that recognises the fact that the 'locals' have not achieved the level of surfing proficiency required to succeed in this forum; better to concede the break than to be embarrassed in public). Of course, the relevant local, state and federal bodies acquiesce to this self-serving form of regulation because of the implied economic benefits. In this case, this is an example of the government adhering to the private interest theory of regulation.

To quote Johnny Utah in 'Point Break 1':
"OK. I get it. This is where you tell me that 'locals rule,' and that yuppie insects like me shouldn't be surfing the break, right?"
"No, that would just be a waste of time."
"We're just gonna f*#k you up!"

Ah, intimidation and violence... Surfing is regulated even when it's unregulated.

servant's picture
servant's picture
servant Friday, 3 Sep 2021 at 12:29am

Thank you, nice reference Fireblade to the original Point Break movie.
As soon as this article was posted I thought immediately of this excellent scene, dusted off my original DVD and watched this great movie (in my opinion) again just to see it in this article's context. Ok, Johny U did drop in, on 'the long workable right', but he was a beginner just learning the ropes, 'on a piece of sh-t pig board', as we all did once upon a time.
A punch in the face, in the line up and your legrope cut, followed by a pack of 4 drug crazed hostiles beating you (1) up on land, very very extreme, but in my experience, sadly not that far from reality in the early-mid 70's on the Victorian West (surf) Coast.
Interesting to note that in the opening surf montage it was Dino Andino (Kolohe's dad) doing all the ripping. It's hard to make out his face because all the shots were deliberately filmed back lit.
Hope you score some nice waves soon. God Bless

tubeshooter's picture
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tubeshooter Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 5:25pm

Well now you mention it the missus could do with a break from washing the ute.
I can't see how you could go wrong with offering free beer either , but middies might make you look a bit like a tight arse. Go with the schooners. Although at the moment with covid restrictions ,handing out a few sixpacks in the carpark before a session could pay social dividends too.

Jockhobbs's picture
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Jockhobbs Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 8:19pm

I’d pay a schooner of New of a tasty Lennox barrel

overthefalls's picture
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overthefalls Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 4:39pm

wingnut2443's picture
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wingnut2443 Saturday, 4 Sep 2021 at 7:51am

Never seen that channel on YouTube ... just had a watch of a few, and yes, very well done.

Agreed, Ben, he's built a profile (is that a better term than personal brand?) that'll bode well surfing away from HIS 'local'.

overthefalls's picture
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overthefalls Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 4:44pm

It’s worth checking out more of these videos: hilarious pisstakes on surfers’ attitudes

inzider's picture
inzider's picture
inzider Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 5:28pm

He's a funny dude for sure but I bet when the ledge is firing or Indies is on the pump he would burn any touro or blowin without a second thought if they weren't playing the game

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 6:19pm

And that, therefore, is his master stroke. Creating such a fantastic personal brand (uurrgggh.. I feel dirty for saying that), he'll never have a problem getting waves no matter where he travels. Lucky bastard.

inzider's picture
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inzider Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 6:38pm

Travel? What's that

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 6:44pm

Back when I was a wee lad, etc

tango's picture
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tango Thursday, 2 Sep 2021 at 10:20pm

I reckon there's a difference between a regular and a local. Lots of breaks have regulars, but often a lot of them aren't locals.

I grew up in a small place where all the locals knew each other. In this part of the world we have a lot of regulars in the water who come from a radius of about 30km to surf the name breaks all through the year. And a lot of travellers/ day trippers - it's common to be in the water with a few you know and 15-20 you would bet the house you've never laid eyes on.

The more time you spend, the more you get to know who the regulars are - many people surf the same time of day cos that's their window, and if you spread your times around you'll get a good idea who is a regular.

You'll see the locals in the shops, down the street, picking up the kids from sport. But you won't see all the regulars around town much. And that doesn't mean they don't appreciate the way the local breaks work.

In my experience only a few locals would like to keep things for themselves, and very few regulars think that way. Most have travelled a bit. The common ground is that 95% of them all appreciate order in the lineup, a bit of etiquette so they get their fair share, and a bit of bullshit out the back.

freeride76's picture
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freeride76 Friday, 3 Sep 2021 at 6:26am

thats been my experience all around the world Tango.

Solitude's picture
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Solitude Friday, 3 Sep 2021 at 9:04am

I had to re read the article to gain some clarity following such a popular and polarising response to this thread.

It seems that the term ‘local’ is viewed fairly negatively by many who don’t live where they like to surf.

In comparison to yesteryear, modern surfers impose a fairly ‘soft’ decree and in my experience seems to be more prevalent with higher than normal crowds or inappropriate behaviour. The worst any poorly behaving interloper is likely to receive in modern Australia is a bit of stink eye, a few words and likely a reduced wave count (unless you’re a 7 time world champ visiting Australia’s best point break during lockdown - which is a despicable and abhorrent example of localism, maybe for another time).

The other variable that hasn’t been mentioned is ‘wave access’. At spots where access is unchallenging even for the most novice of paddlers, there is unfortunately going to be a significant mismatch in ability in the water. This becomes a real issue when the waves reach a certain size or quality - not only because the blow in or novice has not earned their stripes but that of safety.

I live and surf in a region when the waves reach a certain level the crowds drop due to the challenge of getting out. One of the benefits of living in a B grade region for waves.

Back to my initial point, localism comes in many different flavours. I think of people like Heath Joske (fight for bight) and Hayley Talbot / Dan Ross (Clarence River). Every beach has these positive role models.

Most people I know at some point had to make a significant life sacrifice and take a punt be (or remain) near the ocean. From here they’ve also worked hard to integrate into their local community. People are proud of their local and its understandable that at times behaviours spill over into something that is designed to maintain some form of order and respect.

Final note I wholeheartedly acknowledge there is that small percentage of total fuckwit. I see no place for serious aggression / and or violence.

Jockhobbs's picture
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Jockhobbs Friday, 3 Sep 2021 at 10:23am

Interesting points and probably paints a good picture when combined with Tangos synopsis.

Maybe localism is a perception rather than a reality nowadays. Seems to be amorphous in 2021. And herein is the problem for “locals”.

Vince Neil's picture
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Vince Neil Friday, 3 Sep 2021 at 2:16pm

I agree with pretty much everything you say solitude, but not living next to your 'local' is also a significant sacrifice people make in the hope things might align down the track

bonza's picture
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bonza Friday, 3 Sep 2021 at 2:21pm

100%

Solitude's picture
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Solitude Friday, 3 Sep 2021 at 5:13pm

@ Vince / Bonza

For sure it goes both ways, I acknowledge that. I was just trying to make the point that people who may be know as ‘locals’ aren’t all rich, entitled or just plain lucky.

Prior to this work from home boom, many people limited the type or progression of their vocation (read: reduced potential earning) just be near quieter waves.

Most people move to waves due to the values and lifestyle they’d like to lead and often at the expense of existing social/support networks and financial security. They leave family behind due to the allure of living a surfing coastal existence.

An extreme version of this would be upping everything to become an indo surf guide or something.

So yes there is always compromise or sacrifice. I wholeheartedly feel those living on the coast are very fortunate.

I hope if that’s what you’re aiming for that at some point you get the chance to do so yourselves. Either way, enjoy the ride.

Spuddups's picture
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Spuddups Friday, 3 Sep 2021 at 6:55pm

I agree.

bonza's picture
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bonza Saturday, 4 Sep 2021 at 7:33am

Don’t disagree with anything you have said Solitude. Just thought Vince also added important context.

Vic Local's picture
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Vic Local Friday, 3 Sep 2021 at 5:18pm

I'd just like to gage the public mode. Is a sneaky surf beyond the 5km limit better or worse than Nadia Bartel getting on the nose beers with mates and sharing the same snorting note?

goofyfoot's picture
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goofyfoot Friday, 3 Sep 2021 at 5:45pm

Fuck me can you imagine being stuck in a room with her and her mates with nostrils full of podcast powder. I’d rather surf 20 feet shippies

ringmaster's picture
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ringmaster Friday, 3 Sep 2021 at 6:01pm

As long as they paid for it.

Vic Local's picture
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Vic Local Friday, 3 Sep 2021 at 6:24pm

Fair point ringmaster. The price of coke in Australia is a disgrace. No wonder the kids are all on the crack pipe.

FrazP's picture
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FrazP Saturday, 4 Sep 2021 at 6:29pm

Maybe re-think that GF. I mean we all know what the gear does to the girls. One bloke stuck in a room with a few pretty attractive, loaded, just separated single ladies? Sure you could make the best of it!!!

icandig's picture
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icandig Friday, 3 Sep 2021 at 7:25pm

As an astute business woman and influencer, it's probably worth the fine she gets slapped with (or the wrist slapping more like) to raise her social capital amongst the vapid narcissists who deem her worthy of a 'like.'

icandig's picture
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icandig Sunday, 5 Sep 2021 at 9:04am

As predicted...from the trusted and always true Herald Sun this morning.....Is this better or worse than having a surf VL? I have no real opinion on that - it'd be on a case by case basis. I do harbour contempt for C list celebrity instawankers whose main purpose in life seems to be to build and protect their own personal brand though.

" As the businesswoman holed up at her Windsor home on Saturday celebrity publicist Max
Markson said her star was unlikely to wane as a result of the publicity – and she would bounce back
stronger.
Last night a host of big names had liked Bartel’s apology on Instagram, including Bec Judd, Kylie
Brown, Josh Gibson, Keira Maguire and Brook Hogen. And rather than losing support online, Bartel has
gained 6000 Instagram followers since Thursday. "

goofyfoot's picture
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goofyfoot Sunday, 5 Sep 2021 at 10:20am

Enough to make you spew isn’t it

icandig's picture
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icandig Sunday, 5 Sep 2021 at 10:23am

The brave new world is passing me by...and I'm happy to sit on the porch and throw rocks at it.

Horas's picture
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Horas Sunday, 5 Sep 2021 at 12:42am

" The increasing dependence on the State is anything but a healthy symptom ; it means that the whole nation is in a fair way to becoming a herd of sheep,constantly relying on a shepherd to drive them into good pastures. The shepherds staff soon becomes a rod of iron and the shepherds turn into wolves "

- Carl Jung

Welcome to Australia

Sheep go to heaven's picture
Sheep go to heaven's picture
Sheep go to heaven Sunday, 5 Sep 2021 at 7:12am

Ahh yes, very nice observation there Horas ,
Reminds me of another philosopher Jung MC and his seminal work " Bust a Move"
" You want it , you got it
you want it , baby you got it ( bust a move ) "

AndyM's picture
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AndyM Sunday, 5 Sep 2021 at 9:43am

Then there was Neil Yung’s timeless aphorism - “Look out mama, there’s a white boat coming up the river”.

Sheep go to heaven's picture
Sheep go to heaven's picture
Sheep go to heaven Sunday, 5 Sep 2021 at 10:38am

..... And who could forget that eminent scholar John Paul Yung and his essay on coming out of lockdown :

-- ' love is in the air " :)

gdh's picture
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gdh Tuesday, 14 Sep 2021 at 9:57am

I read somewhere that the more you’re stressed the less empathy you have for others, this could not be any truer for crowded line-ups. Snaking, drop-ins and outright abuse only gets worse as the waves are shared by greater numbers and your good vibes give way to selfishness and the urge to give kooks a verballing. The old punk band Surf Punks were writing tongue-in-cheek lyrics about this stuff 40yrs ago. Classics like ‘My Wave’ and ‘My Beach’ are funny but also kind of embarrassing when you realise as a surfer you’ve behaved like that more than once.

rhys.jones's picture
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rhys.jones Tuesday, 14 Sep 2021 at 11:13am

In my opinion its about keeping people safe, travelling to go surfing and possibly endangering other Australians is really selfish!I live in a small town with great waves(approx 130 residents).When we were in lockdown we may have had 4000 crew coming into town and maybe 2000 surfers on the day of swell,my neighbour counted 100 cars in twenty minutes on the road in.I went down and had a shout at these crew and posted footage of the crazy amount of people(just ended up copping a stack of hate and even got called a blow in?)Im not pissed about people coming (I have city people coming to stay every single week)For me its not about localism its about selfish entitled cockheads doing the wrong thing.This is why if you go to small surf towns and people are are not as friendly as they once were this is the reason(surfers and non surfers)