Gallery: East by north-east

Craig Brokensha
Swellnet Dispatch

Most eyes were on today regarding the peak in wave size, as this is what the virtual buoys were reporting across all forecast sites, even ours. But herein lies the value of the Forecaster Notes and identifying that today's apparent spike in swell was on top of a large, easing easterly groundswell from Monday, and consisting mostly of poorly aligned, localised southerly swell.

One look at the buoys and beach yesterday morning and visions of June 6th, 2016 (the Black Nor'easter) sprung to mind. Very similar but just a tad smaller.

On the weekend a strengthening coastal low saw an infeed of strengthening east-northeast gales on its eastern flank, aimed directly at the southern NSW coast. Such systems result in a rapid increase in size as the strengthening fetch develops on top an already active and growing sea state.

The first signs of life were on dark Sunday with building sets to 4-5ft out of the north-east, but come Monday, the low had slipped south, swinging winds offshore across the Northern Beaches as consistent and strong 10-12ft sets focussed in on Manly.

The only spot really handling all the energy was empty at 8am, but on grabbing some moody photos I spied three paddlers in the mist, taking a very wide line out to the Bombora. This included Jarrad Howse, Brent Symes and Kevin Tucker, followed by one late straggler..

I only hung around for two waves before the rain set in and I had to head to work, but the first ride of Kevin's was late and committed (9’6” Webster, Black Hula), while Jarrad's menacing as it peaked up but more of a shoulder ride as the surfers were still trying to find their position.

Kevin Tucker (and in following sequence) late and committed

Incoming, with Jarrad Howse picking off the end section

Below I've also attached some footage of rides seen through the morning, unknown on the first and Brent Symes on the second bigger bomb (first vid).




Comments

Pops's picture
Pops's picture
Pops commented Tuesday, 28 Jul 2020 at 2:03pm

First shot and fourth shot really do it for me.
Well done once again Craig.

He who hesitates is lost

Ape Anonymous's picture
Ape Anonymous's picture
Ape Anonymous commented Tuesday, 28 Jul 2020 at 2:31pm

That's what I get for drinking wine on a Sunday night -missed opportunities on a Monday morning.
Well done lads, looks like it was probably a short session with the rain squalls??

billie's picture
billie's picture
billie commented Tuesday, 28 Jul 2020 at 3:18pm

Well done mate. Johnny-on-the-spot.

Billie

bluediamond's picture
bluediamond's picture
bluediamond commented Tuesday, 28 Jul 2020 at 3:23pm

Loving these swell recaps and accompanying photos/vids. Some crackers in there. Cheers!!

Remigogo's picture
Remigogo's picture
Remigogo commented Tuesday, 28 Jul 2020 at 3:34pm

Me too.. wow all around.

Vic Local's picture
Vic Local's picture
Vic Local commented Tuesday, 28 Jul 2020 at 3:49pm

Looks a bit like Bells. Just warmer and not this year.

"angry online, smiley in the brine"

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig commented Tuesday, 28 Jul 2020 at 4:08pm

Yeah, not quite. Deep water, fast moving bombora and top to bottom, not a slopey, slower wall.

Deanocarve's picture
Deanocarve's picture
Deanocarve commented Wednesday, 29 Jul 2020 at 8:31am

Wait for the Bells option a decent length ride not just a big drop and a shoulder (although occasionally it is )

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot commented Tuesday, 28 Jul 2020 at 7:37pm

Hahah you a funny guy vl

suchas's picture
suchas's picture
suchas commented Tuesday, 28 Jul 2020 at 4:07pm

and not so far from there around midday- the jaws of a different beast!

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig commented Tuesday, 28 Jul 2020 at 4:08pm

Insane photo! And you can see the swell direction there..

stanfrance's picture
stanfrance's picture
stanfrance commented Tuesday, 28 Jul 2020 at 4:31pm

That almost looks architectural.

Stan France

billie's picture
billie's picture
billie commented Wednesday, 29 Jul 2020 at 10:16am

Murder, bloody murder. Worse than it looks too!

Billie

batfink's picture
batfink's picture
batfink commented Tuesday, 28 Jul 2020 at 4:11pm

Quite the mutant there suchas!

radiationrules's picture
radiationrules's picture
radiationrules commented Tuesday, 28 Jul 2020 at 5:24pm

beautiful pics - craig

Westofthelake's picture
Westofthelake's picture
Westofthelake commented Tuesday, 28 Jul 2020 at 5:31pm

Unreal pics Craig.

I recall popping in for a multi-cam between tasks, and on the right I had Newcastle at the top and Manly at the bottom. I wish I had screen-grabbed it. It was like two completely different worlds with a solid set coming through at a good 10 foot ( I saw some bloke riding one of them) whilst Newcastle was struggling at probably 4 foot. Deffo 'whoa' moment.

mikehunt207's picture
mikehunt207's picture
mikehunt207 commented Tuesday, 28 Jul 2020 at 6:42pm

Epic waves for Sydney / East coast (6-8ft WA though), only a matter of time before nic carroll puts up an article up somewhere about him charging POV. Back to back swells like that must be best winter in a long time for that side of the island?

ringmaster's picture
ringmaster's picture
ringmaster commented Tuesday, 28 Jul 2020 at 6:50pm

Just another day in W.A

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot commented Tuesday, 28 Jul 2020 at 7:41pm

Howse on a Webster it looks like.

Craig is it a shifting peak? They were a fair way on the shoulder in that sequence, that set may have just broken deeper than the last though

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig commented Tuesday, 28 Jul 2020 at 7:44pm

Yep, big, big playing field. They'd just gotten to it and were playing it safe and likely went deeper as the session went on. There's a deep peak and a wide peak but some 50m or so apart? Maybe more. Wouldn't want to get caught inside by a bomb.

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot commented Tuesday, 28 Jul 2020 at 7:48pm

Yeah me either, looks like there’s lots of water in them.

billie's picture
billie's picture
billie commented Wednesday, 29 Jul 2020 at 10:17am

Some swing wide, some allow a deep take-off. Not as perfect as the photos make it look. And sketchy too.

Billie

Mcface's picture
Mcface's picture
Mcface commented Wednesday, 29 Jul 2020 at 12:50pm

Did you give it a crack Billie? From other comments I've seen you post seems like you live for these days.

Hamo1180's picture
Hamo1180's picture
Hamo1180 commented Wednesday, 29 Jul 2020 at 7:47pm

Nice meeting you on Monday am, Craig. By the time I went home (literally around the corner) to get my 7’2 (severely undergunned) and paddled out from the northern corner, everyone had come in. I learnt the split peak and wide takeoff zone the hard way, not knowing where to sit in case I copped a 10 footer on the head.
Lesson for next time around: don’t spend so much time checking and watching!!

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig commented Wednesday, 29 Jul 2020 at 8:26pm

You too Hamo, ah bummer re everyone coming in by the time you got out there. Least you've had an introduction for next time! See you around.

GuySmiley's picture
GuySmiley's picture
GuySmiley commented Tuesday, 28 Jul 2020 at 8:08pm

Webster’s instagram account - Kevin’s board 9’6 x 21 x 35/8 77 L Black Hula

groovie's picture
groovie's picture
groovie commented Wednesday, 29 Jul 2020 at 5:35am

Looks like Sydney got the bulk of the swell, here on the Mid Nth Coast was probably 6ft+ on the sets with offshores all day. It has been a GR8 winter so far with some consistent back to back swells.

surfstarved's picture
surfstarved's picture
surfstarved commented Wednesday, 29 Jul 2020 at 9:55am

I flicked over to the Manly cam at about lunchtime on Monday too and it was insane. A macking set rolled through at Bower while I was watching and the Bombie was breaking regularly, but I couldn't see any bodies in the water except for one lone paddler out at North Steyne. He was just paddling for a big one when the cam timed out and by the time I'd refreshed, the angle had moved to the south and I didn't see him again.

Meanwhile, I paddled out at Middleton yesterday. It's hard to conceive that both activities are called surfing - there's just so much space between the two.

Don't let the bastards grind you down

truebluebasher's picture
truebluebasher's picture
truebluebasher commented Wednesday, 29 Jul 2020 at 12:13pm

Winter Wonderbombs blowin' our tiny minds.

Spuddups's picture
Spuddups's picture
Spuddups commented Wednesday, 29 Jul 2020 at 3:51pm

That’s a fairly truncated post there man. Not what we’ve come to expect from the truebluebasher psychedelic vortex. Could this be the start of a completely new zeitgeist for you, or maybe just a momentary flirtation with conciseness?

eastcoastbuoy's picture
eastcoastbuoy's picture
eastcoastbuoy commented Friday, 31 Jul 2020 at 8:33pm

and the 3 x clubbie ski guys out there at Bombora Tuesday who got cleaned up and then plucked out of the ocean by a police boat with two choppers hovering overhead.....snapped ski right in half. Big dollar rescue spend

eastcoastbuoy