Behind The Shot: Matt Dunsmore

Craig Brokensha
Swellnet Dispatch

Matt Dunsmore had to get his hustle on, and it started long before he got wet.

A rising swell combined with a short winter day and the burden of work meant his window of opportunity was fast shutting down.

Late arvo he clocked off, sat in the obligatory traffic, but then found a parking space, wrestled into his wetty, and scrambled down the rocks in double quick time. A well-timed jump saw him join the ten or so surfers already in the water. There was an hour of light left.

Matt's first wave was, in his own words, "a tight tube - wasn't that good".

The second one, however!

"I actually paddled into it thinking there was a bigger and better one behind it. But the set before I thought the same thing and didn’t get a wave, so I figured I'd better go this one then."

"I had a bit of a bumpy takeoff and then it just hit the ledge perfect on the first section. That first section was real good. I had to do a pump and was on my toes for a bit, couldn’t see much and my heals landed back on my board, thought to myself, 'Hey, I might actually come out of this now."

"I tend to not remember waves in much detail, but a lot went on in this one!"

It turned into a twenty two shot sequence from bottom turn to exit, with fifteen of them shown here. And the fun wasn't done.

"I paddled back out and the cliff was whistling and screaming," continues Matt, "the pack paddled out a little too far, and I was on a 6'6" which was pretty small so just hung inside and jagged that next one on the way back out." 

"Pretty stoked I didn’t fall as the two waves behind it would of cleaned me up."

See the last show below for the second wave in his one-two combo.

....and sixty seconds later...

 

Comments

Rabbits68's picture
Rabbits68's picture
Rabbits68 commented Wednesday, 15 Jul 2020 at 11:38am

Epic surfing and great photography!

Crystal Clear

wildenstein8's picture
wildenstein8's picture
wildenstein8 commented Wednesday, 15 Jul 2020 at 11:49am

Typical session for that wave, everything happens quick and if you don't react you don't get shit. Sometimes you even do react and still get shit.

zenagain's picture
zenagain's picture
zenagain commented Wednesday, 15 Jul 2020 at 12:11pm

Nuts!

1173

Mcface's picture
Mcface's picture
Mcface commented Wednesday, 15 Jul 2020 at 12:48pm

Wow, doesn't get better than that! What a great sequence, nice one Craig.

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay commented Wednesday, 15 Jul 2020 at 1:10pm

10/10

Bnkref's picture
Bnkref's picture
Bnkref commented Wednesday, 15 Jul 2020 at 2:49pm

Nice to get the story behind it.

Only on a 6'6?! Great effort.

What happens if you get caught inside there? Risk of getting pushed up against the rocks or do you get pushed towards a channel?

Dan87's picture
Dan87's picture
Dan87 commented Wednesday, 15 Jul 2020 at 2:50pm

There's a video doing the rounds on Whatsapp. Dunno how to upload it. Epic wave!

PeteH's picture
PeteH's picture
PeteH commented Wednesday, 15 Jul 2020 at 3:55pm

Great surfing with great pics to show it. He would have been feeling pretty good driving home from that session!

batfink's picture
batfink's picture
batfink commented Thursday, 16 Jul 2020 at 8:11am

In the maw of a beast.

Great to hear the crew were cheering, no better feeling. Has only happened to me once, and it was nothing like that.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet commented Thursday, 16 Jul 2020 at 8:21am

Does the ocean love you back?

One day after a hearty pit and accolades, Matt gets mowed down, snaps a board, and half a breath off a two-wave hold down.

Check second video.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Matt Dunsmore (@mattdunsmore_) on

batfink's picture
batfink's picture
batfink commented Thursday, 16 Jul 2020 at 8:35am

How were things in your area Stu? Must have been huge but winds much stronger and less friendly I’d imagine.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet commented Thursday, 16 Jul 2020 at 9:32am

Yesterday afternoon was a very special session. The wind was good, size was about as big as it can hold. Few name crew in the water, but anyone who wanted one came away smiling.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig commented Thursday, 16 Jul 2020 at 8:37am

Heavy Stu!

busdrivingkook's picture
busdrivingkook's picture
busdrivingkook commented Thursday, 16 Jul 2020 at 9:01pm

Anyone that gets one like out there would be stoked.... 80 percent of peeps feels the hard flat reef, or the next couple of sets behind it. I always count my lucky stars when I make one out there lol