Behind The Shot: Matt Dunsmore
Matt Dunsmore had to get his hustle on, and it started long before he got wet.
A rising swell combined with a short winter day and the burden of work meant his window of opportunity was fast shutting down.
Late arvo he clocked off, sat in the obligatory traffic, but then found a parking space, wrestled into his wetty, and scrambled down the rocks in double quick time. A well-timed jump saw him join the ten or so surfers already in the water. There was an hour of light left.
Matt's first wave was, in his own words, "a tight tube - wasn't that good".
The second one, however!
"I actually paddled into it thinking there was a bigger and better one behind it. But the set before I thought the same thing and didn’t get a wave, so I figured I'd better go this one then."
"I had a bit of a bumpy takeoff and then it just hit the ledge perfect on the first section. That first section was real good. I had to do a pump and was on my toes for a bit, couldn’t see much and my heals landed back on my board, thought to myself, 'Hey, I might actually come out of this now."
"I tend to not remember waves in much detail, but a lot went on in this one!"
It turned into a twenty two shot sequence from bottom turn to exit, with fifteen of them shown here. And the fun wasn't done.
"I paddled back out and the cliff was whistling and screaming," continues Matt, "the pack paddled out a little too far, and I was on a 6'6" which was pretty small so just hung inside and jagged that next one on the way back out."
"Pretty stoked I didn’t fall as the two waves behind it would of cleaned me up."
See the last show below for the second wave in his one-two combo.
....and sixty seconds later...