Shaun Martin // Burleigh Heads - video

Stu Nettle picture
Stu Nettle (stunet)
Swellnet Dispatch

Barrel riding: It's the one area where those with their back to the wave are still considered at a disadvantage. Especially in small to mid-size waves where it's nigh on impossible to pump for speed and once that rail is set it's good night and good luck.

So imagine the frustration of being a goofy footer raised at a hollow right hand point. Shaun Martin is just that, a goofy foot Burleigh local, however he's managed to work his way around the impediment, even adding a fair dash of style to his backside technique. Exhibit A being the first wave in this vid.

Watch it again and again...

Video by Craig Halstead.

Comments

yocal's picture
yocal's picture
yocal Wednesday, 29 Jun 2016 at 3:47pm

that is some excellent tube riding

Doug Rail's picture
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Doug Rail Wednesday, 29 Jun 2016 at 5:26pm

Nice! Not many surfers have that lay forward leading hand rail grab tuberiding skill in their repertoire. A pleasure to watch when done right. Occy, Egan, Franky O, Archy, Winton immediately come to mind.

stunet's picture
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stunet Wednesday, 29 Jun 2016 at 5:29pm

Can't leave NPJ off that list. Another Gold Coast goof that's a modern master.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Wednesday, 29 Jun 2016 at 6:14pm

Add Doris and Gammy to that list , goofy Burleigh tuberiders.

lostdoggy's picture
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lostdoggy Wednesday, 29 Jun 2016 at 6:28pm

A Wayne lynch invention?
Anyone do it before him?

pigdogger's picture
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pigdogger Wednesday, 29 Jun 2016 at 6:57pm

Hi lostdoggy, see my reply in the post below yours

lostdoggy's picture
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lostdoggy Wednesday, 29 Jun 2016 at 7:50pm

Thanks, Geoff.
Just to confirm, were you grabbing the rail with your right or left hand?

pigdogger's picture
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pigdogger Wednesday, 29 Jun 2016 at 8:13pm

left hand, lostdoggy. Sometimes I would twist as far as trailing mt right arm to wipe some speed off, or lean back. sometimes that resulted in a sore shoulder when things didn't go right.

lostdoggy's picture
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lostdoggy Wednesday, 29 Jun 2016 at 8:27pm

I think i confused myself before. The Wayne lynch manoeuvre I was thinking of was the right hand rail grab. Different to you and Shaun but both cool nonetheless.

pigdogger's picture
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pigdogger Wednesday, 29 Jun 2016 at 6:49pm

Lostdoggy, I don't know if I did it before Wayne Lynch, but given I'm a few months off 60, I thought perhaps its time I throw this out into the ether (at the risk of beating my own drum): here is my story regarding the pig dog stance

The Pig dog Stance
 
Wayne Patrick Murphy, surf coach and former editor of Irish surfing magazine, Tonnta (Jan 20, 2011): Hi Geoff, nice to hear from you. Yes, how can I ever forget my stint in Cooly/Kirra in the late 70s and early 80s ... many fond memories indeed. Even of you backhand barrel riding, as deep as MP, way before any goofies were! Maybe that's why you have back problems today, ha! 

 Doing the pig dog stance was actually inspired by my seeing a Hawaiian surfer, whose name I can’t remember, doing something similar at Maalaea on Maui sometime in 1972, I think. It was in surf movie at the Alhambra Theatre at Stones Corner in Brisbane – although I cannot remember the name of the movie.
 I do remember the first time I tried it at Tallebudgera on the Gold Coast, though (circa 1973). I was 16 and surfing a clean south groundswell – it was really south when I went out early that morning, and grinding a lot like Burleigh. There were quite few swims, but the stance, I thought, allowed me to get a better grip on my board – this really was a false sense of security, because there was no way I was holding onto my board as the wave got to the inevitable closeout on the long, straight bank. Although, if I stayed riding to the death, my board often popped up next to me – a valuable lesson to learn.
 I had another go that afternoon at Burleigh when the wind got around to the south east – a few swims there, too, with the added bonus of a few dings from the rocks.
Over the next four years, I don’t recall too many opportunities or occasions where I was particularly successful getting the stance to work.
 But when I moved to the Gold Coast at the end of 1977, Kirra was just starting to come alive after years of it being a hole after the Big Groyne was built in 1972 – or at least that’s how I remember it. I didn’t really surf there that much before I moved there, as I spent many weekends on the Sunshine Coast once I quit the Tallebudgera clubbies in late 1974, because they wanted me to go to the pub all weekend once I turned 18.
On the Goldie, I generally surfed at Palm Beach and Currumbin Alley.
In that summer of 77/78 I went and saw Steve ‘Zorro’ Goddard at Aragon Surfboards and ordered a Ben Apia style stinger with a 15 inch fin box – requesting that it be shaped by Michael Peterson. Well, as it turns out, his brother Tommy shaped it, and it went unreal. Pig-dogging (my version, anyway) was properly born on that board (thanks Tommy!). A few years were spent surfing El Fucko’s trying to ride the barrel on my backhand. El Fucko’s was what some of us called the often closeout section between Big Groyne and the point proper – surfing here meant I wasn’t wasting good waves, and pissing off the natural footers, who could get so deep.
 I remember some crazy surfs with the fin pushed way forwards in the fin box. Skittering down the face of the wave in the pig-dog stance, waiting for the rail and fin to grab, then it was up the face, then angling down. MP once paddled up to me after I was annihilated on an 8ft-plus Big Groyne keg. “I bet that made you think?” he asked – I took it as a compliment. I will never forget the sight and sound experience of seeing MP out there – he’d be whistling, deep inside the barrel, he was gone, surely. Then he’d invariably emerge from a seemingly impossible position riding his crazy multi winged beast. Moments later he’d be back in the line up after paddling 100 metres wide of the raging south to north rip, he had the Eye of the Tiger, and he paddled fast – now that was a valuable lesson to learn about surfing Kirra.
 I always thought it was odd that not many other surfers did it – although Bruce Lee was another surfer who paddled really wide. That way you could come in to the eddy just south of the Big Groyne and, when the sets came, you paddled into the line up – you had to get into the wave right on the (or slightly behind) the peak if you were going to get inside those humungous caverns. This worked particularly well using the pig dog stance.
 As soon as I got to my feet, I would twist so I was more front-on to the surfboard. This transferred my weight to the inside rail and to the centre of the board. This revelation (about moving my weight forward to the centre of the board) actually came from watching Shaun Thomson surfing on his forehand at Off the Wall or Backdoor, Hawaii in Free Ride (circa 1975). He surfed further forward on his board and he moved around in the barrel – hence, his weight was further forward than I had seen someone surf a barrel up until that time; that was another lesson learnt.
 I came from Brisbane (1977) and subsequently become a driving force at Kirra Surfriders (which was regenerated from the ashes of the drug times in the mid 70s by ring-ins from all over the place), where I was the president for one year (circa 1981/2 or 2/3) after serving terms as contest director, treasurer and secretary,  in between Graham Scammel’s four, I think, terms.

 Here is a bit of a conversation from a Tracks magazine feature on Kirra Point. It was 1985, I think, and I had just snuck past Tommy Peterson in a count-back to grab the fourth and last place in the Gold Coast senior men’s team for the Queensland titles.
As far as I know, this conversation took place either on that day or sometime about then, although I’m not really sure.
 Tracks: When did the goofies start powering at Kirra?
 Wayne ‘Rabbit’ Bartholomew: I personally think guys like Graham Black, Dick Harvey and Furry [Brian Austen] were always good surfers at Kirra. I mean always. When the lay-back, lay-forward, backhand grab-a-rail tube stance came in, that’s when ... well, that was the new era. But those guys like Furry used to surf Kirra as good as a goofy can surf Kirra. There’s only so much a goofy can do out there, mate.
 Tommy Peterson: I reckon Al Byrne’s about the only goofy that can really surf it good, except for Dave McDonald.
 Bruce Lee: Geoff Helisma does pretty well out there.
 Tommy: (in complete disdain) Geoff Helisma couldn’t surf Kirra if his life depended on it.
 Bruce: He’s got a very unique tube-riding style.
 Tommy: He doesn’t stand up.
(further argument between Bruce and Tommy before Rabbit restores order)
 Rabbit: Actually, Wickers (Wayne McKewen) gives it a bit of a run out there. Chappy [James Jennings] and Wickers, they both do pretty good out there.
 Tommy:  Yeah, right. But Chappy gets in trouble with a bit of white water and it tears him to bits. (Hysterical laughter from Bugs and Deaney (Wayne Deane), who can’t believe Tommy’s saying these things while the tape is on)....

  I have to say, for me, it was an honour to be mentioned amongst those names. All of them were far superior surfers to what I ever was.

 DHD’s Darren Handley, as quoted on the (old) Kirra Surfriders Club website history: “I've had some memorable surfs at Kirra in the years I've been surfing. I've shared barrels with all of the Kirra members. Some of the guys I remember in the early days are, M.P. of course. I used to sit at the end of the groin cos' it was too big to go out and I remember watching him sit behind the rock at Big Groin Kirra and get the most epic barrels. Tony Ray also used to get the most unbelievable barrels and Jeff Hallisma (sic) on his backhand.”

wellymon's picture
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wellymon Friday, 1 Jul 2016 at 6:18pm

Sounds like you're the entrepreneur of this manoeuvre then.

Thanks for sharing the story Jeff. ;)

pigdogger's picture
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pigdogger Monday, 4 Jul 2016 at 6:44am

Appreciate you taking the time to read, Wellymon. Might be, apart from the surfer at Maalaea I saw in the movie who was doing something very similar (never been able to figure out who it was, despite several Google sessions). Interesting to see a comment below regarding the drop knee; seems he has a similar view to Tommy. Shaun's method reminded me of those old days. And I think NP junior's style also exhibits some similarities.

wally's picture
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wally Monday, 4 Jul 2016 at 7:47am

Perhaps the earliest form of the pig dog stance filmed was John Peck and his grab rail, face forward, backhand tube stance at Pipeline back in 1963. The first regular foot to ride inside the tube at Pipe, Matt Warshaw says.
Stance shown at 30 seconds into this little one minute clip.

pigdogger's picture
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pigdogger Monday, 4 Jul 2016 at 8:01am

Nice one Wally, if he'd dropped his back knee and pushed his right foot back, there you'd have it! No doubt there have been others who have done similar things without the benefit of it being filmed to show the world.

lostdoggy's picture
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lostdoggy Wednesday, 29 Jun 2016 at 7:06pm

Nice one, Geoff.
That forward pigdog really did look good out at Kirra.
I remember watching the kirra pro section of cylclone fever and I reckon half the goofies had the fwd pigdog stance. I can't think of a pro (natural or goofy) that does it in comps now though.

pigdogger's picture
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pigdogger Wednesday, 29 Jun 2016 at 8:18pm

Shaun's style was what prompted me to reply.The way he surfs reminded me of how it felt back in the day, apart from an occasional right arm drag on the wave face, however, as I've never been filmed, it's all in the memory.

alsurf's picture
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alsurf Wednesday, 29 Jun 2016 at 7:47pm

thats bloody nice .
would pay shaun for lessons unsure if if thats possible to pass on though.

goofyfoot's picture
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goofyfoot Wednesday, 29 Jun 2016 at 8:18pm

Certainly a unique style.

Some people are just naturally good backhand tube riders.

And that last wave, holy fuck!

Adrian Bartlett's picture
Adrian Bartlett's picture
Adrian Bartlett Thursday, 30 Jun 2016 at 2:22pm

Should just give up surfing, get a lid and DK the shit out of that!