First Point Noosa

Stu Nettle picture
Stu Nettle (stunet)
Swellnet Dispatch

As keen readers can attest, Swellnet has had nothing but kind words for our longboard riding brethren and sistren. And we're very fond of drone videography too. So put the pair together and you have something totally wonderful.

Keahi de Aboitiz recently filmed First Point Noosa breaking out of season wtih a crowd of hot loggers giving it the the once over. Great filming, great surfing.

Comments

dellabeach's picture
dellabeach's picture
dellabeach Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 7:53pm

"...nothing but kind words..."
I guess you haven't "shared" the lineup with "our longboard riding brethren and sistren" on a regular basis.
They tend to be selfish, greedy surfers who, much like SUPs and Jet-skis, diminish the enjoyment level of anybody else in their vicinity.
Won't even get started on the lack of legropes in this crowded lineup.......
Beautiful waves, regardless.

surferpl's picture
surferpl's picture
surferpl Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 5:38am

I didn't see much selfishness in the above video. In fact one of the longboarders cruisin' and dancing along did his best to maneuver *around* other surfers instead of taking them out. Sidebar... I don't like drones though. They *seem* harmless enough right now, but when you consider the bigger picture in terms of how they *can* invade your privacy...

zenagain's picture
zenagain's picture
zenagain Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 2:57pm

Beat me to it Della on the leggies.

Not needed in a crowded lineup I suppose because not one of them has ever fallen off a board.

kieron's picture
kieron's picture
kieron Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 3:05pm

Headed there this weekend, forecast has potential to be good.
Horses for courses... Here's a video for you dellabeach - ;)

dellabeach's picture
dellabeach's picture
dellabeach Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 3:29pm

Heading up there myself kieron, want to catch up for a surf ? What do you ride ? Like your musical taste.

indo-dreaming's picture
indo-dreaming's picture
indo-dreaming Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 3:31pm

Surprised Sheepdog isnt all over this thread :P

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 4:18pm

Who? ;)

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 9:17am

Mehhhh...... ;) First point?......... Mehhh......
All I can say, and you probably wont believe me, indo......Back in the 90s I once caught a grower from Nationals, made it thru johnnos, and there was heaps of sand in the bay.. I huntington hopped thru johnnos, and made to first point...... Stepped off onto the beach, had a shower, dried myself, hopped in the car and drove back to coolum........ :)

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 9:19am

Drone footage or it didn't happen...

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 9:33am

(In maxwell smarts voice) " Would you believe I caught a wave at noosa, got 1 tube, 4 turns , and no one dropped in on me?"

zenagain's picture
zenagain's picture
zenagain Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 9:37am

I'd be more inclined to believe the former.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 9:41am

Again in Max's voice - "would you believe I did 17 laps of the carpark, could find a spot, so I drove back to coolum in disgust, just in time for the southeaster to kick in?" ;)

jaunkemps's picture
jaunkemps's picture
jaunkemps Monday, 8 Sep 2014 at 9:40am

I did the same on the bigger one but from the pot through to sails. ordered a late' had lunch and won the meat tray at the Reef on line, now thats another story ; ()

Darryl Menzies's picture
Darryl Menzies's picture
Darryl Menzies Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 4:16pm

Memories of what I used to experience. Not so crowded in my day but just as much fun! Thanks for sharing.....

memlasurf's picture
memlasurf's picture
memlasurf Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 4:40pm

Lovely tiddly waves but the logs leave me cold. It really is Mal heaven these days.

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 5:17pm

Great footage,perfect waves and guys that can surf mals the way they should be ridden instead of all the retards that use them as giant short boards.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 5:38pm

When it's tiny I'll ride a longboard and I appreciate watching it done well.... From afar.
But to surf those waves with that crowd , I'd rather scarf a fresh dog turd off a crumbling asbestos sheet ( with my hands tied behind my back ). They can have it.

Nice drone photography . That angle always gets the juices flowing.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 5:39pm

Smoothest drone footage I've seen, paced perfectly and no jerkiness.

kieron's picture
kieron's picture
kieron Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 5:43pm

Dellabeach, I'll be the kook on a blue 8ft semi-hull... But it'll be tied on, I'd be swimming after it for days the amount I fall. Glad you have a sense of humour mate, hope you get some good ones up there!

memlasurf's picture
memlasurf's picture
memlasurf Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 5:55pm

I liked the one of the Tassie points better on real boards nary a Mal in sight, though I must admit I prefer the water shots. Blowin I go snorkelling when it is tiny in summer just can't come at the Mal although Simba is right that they are riding them in the 50-60's style which seems to be the best way to surf them (and doing it well). Riding them would just make me feel even more ancient than I already am. We revolted against them back in the 70's which is where I left them and the single fin. Just can't regress that much (I stop at twinnies).

islandman's picture
islandman's picture
islandman Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 5:55pm

thats unreal i was out that weekend and it was the most frustrating surf i have had in along time, very tough to get waves but these guys seem to have the secret?? not sure if its the same guy but surfshotsnoosa does great photos and drone work .

dellabeach's picture
dellabeach's picture
dellabeach Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 6:22pm

It's no secret islandman. Get a heavy board over 8' and sit at least 40-50 feet further out than where you would reasonably need to be in order to turn around and catch a wave. At the sight of an approaching swell, paddle as though you were being chased by Jaws itself and stand on your board 2-4 feet before reaching the other surfers waiting in the lineup (make sure wave hasn't started to break yet). Repeat. Guaranteed to get a wave out of every set for the length of your session. You're welcome.

zenagain's picture
zenagain's picture
zenagain Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 6:54pm

and the admiration of your peers.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 7:02pm

punishing, but if logs are in the line-up it's probably a mal wave.........

Pass, First Point Noosa, Wategoes, if you can't beat 'em join 'em.

dellabeach's picture
dellabeach's picture
dellabeach Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 7:50pm

My personal rule is that a longboard is the right craft when a wave rolls along without any whitewater. The first wave ( :01 -:04) fits the criteria. If you can get tubed, it's not solely a "mal wave", regardless of what the squirrels may like to believe.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 7:16pm

It's illegal to beat em. Unless you can work some kind of self defence angle. Shame really.

gillos's picture
gillos's picture
gillos Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 7:25pm

I was just sitting here watching this when my 7yo daughter walked up and said at 1:06 "Dad, that rude guy has a penis board". My response was ..... *crickets chirping* O_o

I might add, the control of the drone was very good....

evosurfer's picture
evosurfer's picture
evosurfer Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 7:54pm

That wanker on the purple long board not only takes all the waves but
when some other guy gets a wave he just drops in. Bring back the good
old days of bring back the biff.

vascectomy-blottmouth's picture
vascectomy-blottmouth's picture
vascectomy-blot... Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 11:19am

Haha! Yeah I've never seen that before, where one bloke gets all the waves in a video clip.

What a bastard!

roondog's picture
roondog's picture
roondog Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 8:48pm

i reckon you can all stay over that side of the country and dont bother coming to WA, sharks will eat you.

seahunt's picture
seahunt's picture
seahunt Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 8:26am

"Empty, perfect First Point Noosa! "
your kidding, right
What a joke

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 8:34am

Where does it say that Seahunt?

kashmir's picture
kashmir's picture
kashmir Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 8:46am

Great waves and good surfing for mals.In our area the mals ride the same waves as the kids and they pay the price if they do the wrong thing.If they decided to start surfing without legropes here they would not be allowed in the water. You can't bash them but you can hold their heads under water which works just as well.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 10:33am

One thing about this squirrel log revival.......they have taken over all the kiddies corners waves where kids used to be able to learn to surf.

Now, you can't get near a babyfood peeler with the kids without a bunch of bearded loggers filming water, drone, lifestyle whilst making a tasteful three minute clip for an environmentally friendly eco surfwear label.

vascectomy-blottmouth's picture
vascectomy-blottmouth's picture
vascectomy-blot... Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 11:17am

Hey! Everyone listen to Steve 'Lovejoy' Shearer here...

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 11:23am

Gold

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 11:05am

POB (Persons on Board) plus Drone = Dropped Objects.
JHA required with a controlled risk assessment.

toneranger's picture
toneranger's picture
toneranger Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 1:05pm

how many pages would a Materials Hazard Sheet go for a surfboard.It would read like War and Peace

Nelson Mamed Rodrigues's picture
Nelson Mamed Rodrigues's picture
Nelson Mamed Ro... Wednesday, 3 Sep 2014 at 1:55am

Aloha show altas direitas perfeitas @@@desde Brasil soul surfer Longboards curti este video valeu@@@

islandman's picture
islandman's picture
islandman Wednesday, 3 Sep 2014 at 7:57am

gotta love or hate the new age mal rider/ultra hip dudes that get around noosa i think thats what u call them ? the old guys are allways gonna ride mals and thats cool i probably will when im that age but the young guys i think u call them hipsters? i just dont get it and they make me feel way to normal , there kind of a mix between ned kelly and 2pak , first point can get very hollow on low tide definietly can cram your short board in some hollow ones if u can squeeze between the logs

Comwazzy's picture
Comwazzy's picture
Comwazzy Wednesday, 3 Sep 2014 at 11:48am

Many of the regular Noosa crew are surfers who love the ocean and most will have and surf a selection of many boards and "objects de aqua" that could include; logs, mals, hybryds, shorties, SUP, foamies, boogey and finless. This is a reflection of the urge to merge with the ocean, have fun (some of us even enjoy a good body-bash when conditions are right). Certainly, when the swell is happening it get a bit hectic on the points but surfing is also sport and it's competitive at times and those with the right equipment for the conditions will always get more waves. The younger guys (and girls) who some call "hipsters", I have found to be generally really into the ocean and surfing and they remain open-minded rather than one dimensional in their approach to surfing. The notion that "a short board is the only board to ride anywhere and any-time" must be considered limited and tedious. It also shows a lack of understanding of the history of this great tradition we have all inherited.

islandman's picture
islandman's picture
islandman Wednesday, 3 Sep 2014 at 1:26pm

Comwazzy your definietly right and I was just mucking around but that is what makes places like noosa cool ! And I guess noosa is a fairly easy wave to ride so it attracts all sorts of people and surf craft

memlasurf's picture
memlasurf's picture
memlasurf Wednesday, 3 Sep 2014 at 2:36pm

noosa is a fairly easy wave to ride so it attracts all sorts of people and surf craft

Ahhh yeah thats it and the warm water and climate. Makes it all very easy so as you say anybody can do it on anything and they do. For me it just dumbs down the whole experience. Might as well take a SUP with a lounge chair on it out there, or better yet how about a Jason Recliner so that once you are up and running just click back and snooze away. The only time I surfed there was back in the early 90's before the Mal regression and that little wave got really hollow on the low tide. Everybody was on a short boards so it was fun as there were no tossers taking off 3 miles off shore and hogging waves.

Comwazzy's picture
Comwazzy's picture
Comwazzy Wednesday, 3 Sep 2014 at 5:33pm

Ha! Love the rhetoric. The Noosa points may be "easy" waves to get into but the beauty of Keahi's video demonstrates there is an art to riding it with as much skill as some of the dudes on this particular day. I've been surfing all sorts of things for 40 years and I still appreciate the skill and fluency of these surfers. Some people paddle out who probably should not really be in the line up due to underdeveloped skills or poor choice of craft for the conditions. There is no short-board Vs longboard competition other than the construct of the surf industry aimed at selling product. The challenge is for the individual to bring their particular level of skill, fitness, enthusiasm, tolerance and intention to the conditions on that particular day. Forget the hype-the majority of people in the water were never "on the pro tour" and never will be. Try this approach; paddle out, look around, hoot when someone gets a good wave, smile and enjoy the ocean. If you find it too stressful then probably best to stay out of the water and work on some psychological strategies to overcome the stress. All sports require positive attitude to produce enhanced performance...

hammerhead's picture
hammerhead's picture
hammerhead Thursday, 4 Sep 2014 at 11:59am

I don't get it! Why do you shortboarders feel so threatened by longboarders? I have always thought that we were all in the water for fun and comraderie no matter the size of the board. I thought the guy on the purple board was a most considerate surfer and I did not see him cut anyone off. You people need to get over it and just get in line and take your wave. This is petty bs. If you don't like surfing small waves go get some big ones and stop whining! Everyone has a right to be in the water!

Comwazzy's picture
Comwazzy's picture
Comwazzy Friday, 5 Sep 2014 at 10:28am

Thanks hammerhead. I think a lot of it is about the ego (it's still not a dirty word). Please indulge me in my explanation; there is the sport/art of surfing which is about the ocean and experiencing the buzz/flow of riding waves (this can be on any kind of craft or even body-surfing). Then there is another layer, let's call it the social/psychological . This is the complex bit where individuals construct part of their identity around "being a surfer" which we know means very different things to different people. Add the hype of the surf industry who have really driven this through a vested interest in selling all kinds of product and promoting the ideal of the " elite pro-surfer" which the majority of us are not interested in achieving and what you emerge with is a cohort predominately of males who have constructed at least part of their identity around superficial assumptions of masculinity centered on image, aggression, competition and territoriality. Now add to this the life stories and psychological make-up of individual surfers, the general struggles of day to day existence and of course the big one-more and more people of varying skill levels in the water and there it is: tension, conflict, frustration, aggression. In my opinion, those who only ride short boards no matter what the conditions are the most affected by this narrow social construction of identity. Perhaps there is a PHD thesis in here somewhere? Then again think I'd rather go surfing...

fitzroy-21's picture
fitzroy-21's picture
fitzroy-21 Friday, 5 Sep 2014 at 10:48am

I think you guys have it a little confused. It's not so much a "shortboard/longboard" issue as such. For obvious reasons, longboards can sit much further out than the take off zone of where the short boarders will sit. They will happily paddle past back out to that area.

The issue is that every set (which could be 10-20 minute wait) the long boarders may take it in turns amoungst each other of who gets the waves, leaving the shortboarders closer in left with the scraps. Thus the angst.

Put yourself in the same situation where, for example, SUP's are out further than yourselves and started doing the same thing. I'm pretty sure your reaction would be similar.

So the issue at hand is really "sharing". It has nothing to do with skill level or equipment rivalry. It's to do with wave hogging.

Now you may well say that you share, but from 30+ years of first hand experience up and down the coast on similar point breaks everywhere, wave hogging happens regularly and whilst most are OK, there are a few that just can't help themselves, don't know any better, or just don't give a fuck and do it anyway. And that is where the "fun" goes out of it because a select few have "fun" spoiling for all the others.

indo-dreaming's picture
indo-dreaming's picture
indo-dreaming Friday, 5 Sep 2014 at 2:12pm

+1

dellabeach's picture
dellabeach's picture
dellabeach Tuesday, 9 Sep 2014 at 2:14pm

+1
Some posters are losing the point of the argument. I have a lot of surfcraft, from a surfmat to a 9'6" x 3 1/2" "aircraft carrier"and everything in between. If these guys want to play "who can get to their feet first", I can indulge them, but where does it end? Do I really need to get a Wavejet board? How about checking out who's waiting in the lineup after you caught your last wave and not catching your next wave until all others have had a fair go? Works at the Coles deli counter, what's the difference in the water?

islandman's picture
islandman's picture
islandman Friday, 5 Sep 2014 at 1:06pm

comwazzy i have to say that was a pretty dam good summary of alot of surfers and i agree totally with you , that is why i do not surf hotspots like burleigh snapper etc which is a shame because they are such good waves but the ego and bullshit that goes with it is just not worth it and actually makes the experience really not fun for me anyway, you are totally right most guys feel they need to look a certain way and act a certain way just to enjoy the thrill of riding down the face of a wave! u actually dont have to be tough and u dont need tattoos or a certain image to go surfing (not that theres anything wrong with tattoos i am generalising here) but also fitzroy-21 that is the only issue i ever have with mals is that one guy who allways paddles out the back rarely talks to anyone and takes all the set waves! i love watching all surfcraft one of the best surfers at noosa is a guy on a pink softboard no ego involved with him haha

wally's picture
wally's picture
wally Friday, 5 Sep 2014 at 1:30pm

Surfers behave just like humans generally do when dealing with a resource scarcity.
Like too many scavengers at a dump all angling to get the good stuff.

Short board riders don't like longboarders because of their paddling advantage. They sometimes dress that up in various types of self-justifying bulldust. Of course, there is also the inherent human tribalism which is always running at some level.
On the other hand, many longboarders are riding those boards just to get the paddling advantage.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Friday, 5 Sep 2014 at 1:50pm

As Fitzy said , it's all about mal riders greed. Personally I've never cared what anyone rode , nor did anyone I ever surfed with - with the exception of a fella known as Punch Drunk who rode the ugliest home made atrocities that a grom ever laid eyes on.

Everyone rode the same style of craft because those we thought had superior insight told us they were cutting edge. If you'd chosen something else no one would have cared apart from an initial giggle. We never rode longboards because they were limited and boring. Still are.

openhouse's picture
openhouse's picture
openhouse Saturday, 6 Sep 2014 at 6:47pm

Great sound, great waves and thanks for sharing it with us!

trippergreenfeet's picture
trippergreenfeet's picture
trippergreenfeet Saturday, 6 Sep 2014 at 6:57pm

I like riding my 8' mal in all conditions, it's no log but built for performance, but, and this is the big but... I know how shit it is to be the guy on a short board getting stooged by that greedy mal rider taking every good set wave, so when I surf the mal, I ensure I'm aware of who is catching what and make sure I don't become that greedy, unsharing, uncaring scrooge.
Not hard to do either, just takes being mindful of ones surroundings.

Guess I was lucky to surf Noosa in the early 90's before the crowds really took hold.

memlasurf's picture
memlasurf's picture
memlasurf Monday, 8 Sep 2014 at 5:14pm

Guess I was lucky to surf Noosa in the early 90's before the crowds really took hold.

Ahh... I surfed it during a cyclone that wiped out Fiji and there were over 120 people in the water around 1991. That place has always been crowded as I said in an earlier post it is just sooo easy to surf anybody can do it, it just isn't that challenging - plenty of fun though. I have a mate who has a similar Mal to you and he sits with everybody else and doesn't hog waves which is fine by me. I also love seeing him try to duck dive it and get washed in or try to take very hollow waves and nose dive it. He readily admits there are limits to these things.