Kirra video footage

Stu Nettle picture
Stu Nettle (stunet)
Swellnet Dispatch

Been a week plump full of waves up on the Gold Coast, and no place was better than Kirra. By all reports, and also going on this video evidence, the bank is better than it has been since early last year. At present Kirra Reef is exposed and the rocks of Little Groyne are also seeing the sun for the first time in a decade. So is it a permanent return or just a passing visit from an old friend? That remains to be seen.

Parko on a long one.

...though Mick got a longer one.

Kirra filmed from the hill yesterday.

Burleigh has had a few. Drone footage from Tuesday.

And a few more from Burleigh on Wednesday.

Comments

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 9:30am

What a magic few days on the Qld points
Eugene Fanning........a blatant drop in......wheres your manners world champ.

yocal's picture
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yocal Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 11:12am

If you see, the guy Fanning drops in on has just burned another fella. Gets what he deserves I reckon.

staitey's picture
staitey's picture
staitey Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 10:25am

Scenario from earlier in the week........

.........bloke getting slotted @ Kirra, going mach 10, making it for sure
........shoulder hopper burns him gets a 3 second ride flicks off in front of me and I said

'' you know that guy was going to make it'', he replies '' I don't give a f#@k I've been dropped in on all arvo''................to that I replied, ''not only is it dangerous but it probably wasn't that guy''..........to this, ''who care you know what its like, its a barbeque out here''

..........the sad thing was that he's probably the majority out there. Yeah some epic waves going down, but take the gloss off some magic days with that kind of attitude.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 10:30am

That's disgraceful!

staitey's picture
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staitey Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 10:27am

PS - Isn't it illegal to have Jetskis within 200m of swimmers / surfers / shore????? Every wanna be pro were out there burning the 2 stroke and the hopes of guys actually paddling against the sweep

Something needs to be done about them IMO

mick-free's picture
mick-free's picture
mick-free Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 12:14pm

I know Andrew Kidman has been upset at this for a long time. All I know is if they close the beaches you are allowed the ski....with the normal watercraft rules obviously.

fitzroy-21's picture
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fitzroy-21 Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 10:32am

That attitude isn't just restricted to the GC staitey. Unfortunately it's festering everywhere. Etiquette is becoming non-existent. Fucking sad when someone is getting potentially the best barrel of their life to have someone burn them for what..............

staitey's picture
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staitey Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 11:16am
fitzroy-21 wrote:

That attitude isn't just restricted to the GC staitey. Unfortunately it's festering everywhere. Etiquette is becoming non-existent. Fucking sad when someone is getting potentially the best barrel of their life to have someone burn them for what..............

Seen it everywhere, as recent as remote Sumatra but nowhere as bad as here, cooly in particular. I just can't understand it........why can people get away with such blatant rudeness and disregard for safety as a surfer but not in any other facet of life? ...........can you imagine this kind of thing happening inline at the servo or woolies?

...........its just the whole 'everyone else is doing it attitude' that urks me. I will always have a non violent word and I wonder if there was more respect for your fellow surfer and more people pulling others up would we see a gradual change in culture?

fitzroy-21's picture
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fitzroy-21 Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 11:22am

Hey staitey, over on the forums re Sumatra.

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 11:02am

Great waves..... But it aint real kirra...... No sand sucking double up fin snapping dredges... Great waves nonetheless....

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 11:05am

That's equivalent to egg and protein bait being hung in front of Uplfit SD.

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 11:55am

lol...Hey craig... Do you or anyone here know anything about whether the big groyne has been/ is being/ will be re extended... Wasn't there rumour about that?

stunet's picture
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stunet Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 11:59am

It already has been SD. The council lobbed another 30 metres on, or 'returned' the 30 metres, earlier this year. It's now the same length it was prior to '97.

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 12:40pm

This year??.....ok...... And this is the best "kirra" we've seen in a long long time..... Will be very interesting towards March.... If we get another ecl ( which can happen in spring during SEQ thunderstorm season) AND some swell action Dec/Jan, erosion may take place... the bank may be pushed closer to the point..... Hmmmmm. Nice to see some positive news in a world full of shit.....

burgsurfer's picture
burgsurfer's picture
burgsurfer Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 1:07pm

I am from NSW South Coast and 9 out of 10 surfs are by myself.... I spent the last 2 weeks of January this year on the GC. Got really good 4 to 6 ft surf from Snapper to Greenmount but the crowd was just hectic! The only way I could get waves was sitting in the pack behind the rocks Snapper and waiting my turn, seems to be a bit of common respect behind the rocks. But down the line people just drop in, paddle on your inside, don't wait turns... absolute circus....
Hoping I get some waves similar to that to myself on the weekend!

shoredump's picture
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shoredump Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 1:13pm

I'll take a bite on that debate Sheepy, and agree with you that she is not quite there yet. Needs to be below sea level thick yet ruler edged bowling grinders till you can say she is back 100%. She was a genuine wonder of the surfing world for some time there, but mannn, things are looking promising aren't they!? She is very close. Fuck yeah.

dirtybarry58's picture
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dirtybarry58 Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 10:05pm

I'm from Melb. and I used to go to Kirra every winter for 6 weeks for about 8 years in the late eighties/early nineties. Totally different break IMO. Used to be true point breaks (G'mount too), now they both seem to be more sand bottomed reefs, therefore tide isn't such a factor and they're not as hollow or peel as perfectly. On a good day, I could just sit and watch (if I wasn't in the water) the surf roll in, mesmerized.
With all that, it can't possibly return to 'normal' as it doesn't break anywhere near as close to the rocks as it used to because of the one continuous sand bar.
Looking at the vid, I just couldn't get over the amount of dropping in going on. It looked to me as tho that was the norm.
Fuking disgrace.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 1:37pm

They are looking promising, shoredump..... I remember wagging school in I think 1977... Surf was way outa my league... Little grommet with a surfmat lol..... Caught some waves at the greeny shorey..... Then went and sat on the rocks next to big groyne with a bunch of other grommets watching all the hot names of the day..... I think that was the day I really REALLY wanted to be surfer..... Used to hang out for the"Crystal cylinders" ad on tv..... Got a secondhand burford not long after that..... Oh hang on..... No it was a sky.......... I think the burford was my second board... Jesus... getting old man.....

shoredump's picture
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shoredump Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 2:01pm

Agreed again. You are getting old! Hehehe

Sheepdog's picture
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Sheepdog Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 2:10pm

Yep...And thank god for that lol

mothart's picture
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mothart Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 9:21pm

Shoredump, I'm with you on the 1:13 call... When the lip is ruler edge it's getting close(r)... When big grone turns into a gurgling mess of double sucking madness...

evosurfer's picture
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evosurfer Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 10:50pm

I dont give two hoots what every so called expert out there says Thursday action was the
best Kirra ive surfed or seen and I have been chasing cyclone swells for Kirra for 25years.
Yes it dose not break close to the rocks and feels a little weird breaking wide or so far in front of the groin but it was holding some big solid waves with wide open monster pits.IMHO it holds much larger waves and goes longer pass North Kirra life saving club only downfall was the longer walk back. Bigger and better then ever I think.

seaman-staines's picture
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seaman-staines Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 11:44pm

I didn't surf Thursday but was dragged down there on the weekend and it was the first time it felt like a ridable wave again. I was surprised because normally you hit the groyne and hope you can pick one off that doesn't explode into a staircase of brown sand as the cross face chop delays you getting to your feet. It had clean faces on the real possibility of covering some ground.

I believe the photographic evidence this time around opposed to previous Kirras back calls when I know how shit the waves were on days you'd see someone locked into what looked like a dream wave.

mothart's picture
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mothart Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 11:45pm

Ok
Wasn't there
Looked fucken good
Shouldn't have commented

mothart's picture
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mothart Friday, 29 Aug 2014 at 11:55pm

YS you got that footage digital yet?

yorkessurfer's picture
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yorkessurfer Saturday, 30 Aug 2014 at 5:55pm

Nah I've been slack moth. I'm going to town next week and will see if I can bump it up on my 'to do' list.
Sick looking Kirra!

barley's picture
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barley Saturday, 30 Aug 2014 at 12:10am

If Kirra can come back then the world is a more magical, mind blowing place!!!

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Saturday, 30 Aug 2014 at 7:50am

Sounds like it was a nightmare out Kirra ....stabmag story.

kaiser's picture
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kaiser Saturday, 30 Aug 2014 at 1:26pm

To perpetuate it because it has happened to you is the greatest measure of the human condition.

This sort of stuff happened when Kirra fired way back. Because it is going so fast and the leading edge of the lip is so far in front, you are at the mercy of the guy on the shoulder. If he chooses to go, he will completely fuck your barrel that you paddled an hour to catch and be gone so quick, it's like the perfect crime.

Funny, I surfed most days of the swell (although not at Kirra). The first couple were good size but not super clean. The crowd was thick but generally well-mannered. When the grinding barrels showed up, the dynamic changed completely.

Add a good sweep and some queue jumpers on skis and you can always predict what will happen.

One thing... to those who can afford to be gracious... If I just had a trip to French Polynesia to surf massive perfection paid for by people who bought products from the companies who paid for my trip, I would like to think I would be considerate and borderline thankful, not determined to shit over my target demographic by getting on the next available flight and fire up the skis and burn whoever I thought appropriate.

If I owned said company, and it had a PR department, I would make sure they had a chat to the 'employee' about brand equity and association

staitey's picture
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staitey Saturday, 30 Aug 2014 at 8:10pm

why doesn't everyone who surfs Snapper through Kirra start ripping into these guys kaiser has mentioned? If the general surfer (us) stopped viewing these guys as demi gods, realised we're all out there for the same reason and started tuning the pros + their gaggle of wannabes then maybe just maybe attitudes may shift over a fair period of time

Pol Pot's picture
Pol Pot's picture
Pol Pot Saturday, 30 Aug 2014 at 8:39pm

Pro surfers world champions are not above the law or are they
We have all seen the footage we have the evidence they do break the law every big swell
They should be dealt with in a court of law
Why are they not !

Blowin's picture
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Blowin Saturday, 30 Aug 2014 at 9:36pm

Shitfight. They can keep it.

zenagain's picture
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zenagain Saturday, 30 Aug 2014 at 9:36pm

Probably staitey because if you took one to task, you'd be seriously outnumbered by their hangers-on. The ones who want to bask in the glory of knowing a 'pro'.

Do you think a pro would do his own fighting?

Blowin's picture
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Blowin Saturday, 30 Aug 2014 at 9:45pm

Attack of the moths.

evosurfer's picture
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evosurfer Saturday, 30 Aug 2014 at 10:13pm

Those same pros you guys are referring too are locals there as well so 2 t 2 equals they
just like most locals at certain places do pretty much as they wish. I have surfed with
them in my area recently and they were very respectful and more than waited for there
turn. Conclusion they are only pricks in their own area just like most locals.

zenagain's picture
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zenagain Saturday, 30 Aug 2014 at 11:06pm

Don't worry, I'm well aware the locals can be pricks too. Probably more so than the pro's.

I've had great surfs at Kirra, Snapper, Burleigh in the past with no drop-ins and a cool vibe. Haven't surfed those places since the 90's though. I watched the Snapper webcam on SN the other day. What a shambles, I can't recall seeing one wave that someone wasn't dropped in on or chandeliered. It was a fucking zoo.

Bugger that.

uplift's picture
uplift's picture
uplift Sunday, 31 Aug 2014 at 2:19pm

'Probably staitey because if you took one to task, you'd be seriously outnumbered by their hangers-on. The ones who want to bask in the glory of knowing a 'pro'.

Do you think a pro would do his own fighting?'

Please tell me I didn't just read that.

'Hi love, did you have a nice surf.... what are you blubbering, I mean, crying about? Dry your eyes love, stop sniffling, blow your nose, and tell me what happened.'

'Fuckin' hell honey, bloody fannsy and his mates kept droppin in and wouldn't let me even catch a wave!'

'But fannsy and his mates are just little pip squeaks love. how could that happen?'

'No they fuckin' are fuckin' not honey, and stop calling them pipsqueaks, they are elite athletes, the greatest athletes that the world, the cosmos, the galaxy, the universe has ever fuckin' well seen. So there!'

'Ok love, just relax, don't start blubbering, I mean crying again, whatever you say. I'll fix it.'

'Who are you ringing honey.. sniffle sniffle?'

'I'm ringing Lifty dear, he'll fix it.'

'Faaarrrking 'ell. Don't tell fuckin' Lifty... how did ya get his number... he's not even big anyway!'

'Its alright love, Lifty is going to use a simple dunk and squwark technique... you go outside and play with your snowboard dear.'

'Faaaaaarrrkkk, what's all that faaaarrkin' squwarking honey?'

'Lifty dunked fannsy and everyone ran off squwarking. Now you can go and catch a wave dear.'

'Is Lifty still there honey?'

'No love, its ok, he's got another job. The pipsqueaks put a fence up at some surfees wave, and the pipsqeaks won't even let them look at it. Its alright now though love, Lifty just pulled the fence down, wrapped the pipsqueaks up in it and threw it all in the bin.'

'Faaarrrkkk what did the pip squeaks do then honey?'

'Nothing honey, they all started squwarkin' and went and got a really mean tattoo.'

'There you go love, now you can go and play surfing.'

'Shall I get a really mean tattoo honey?'

'I'd actually prefer you to get some shoulders to put them on first love.'

'Whats all that stuff you're putting in my terryucky and fermented sprout zensless smoothy honey?'

'Lifty said he changed his mind love, and that you should take massive doses of testosterone, HGH, peptides, in fact every body building substance ever known to mankind love.'

'Why honey?'

'So you can try to MAN THE FUCK UP and stop being petrified of squwarkin' pipsqueaks... love. Sorry dear, stop blubbering... again, I mean, crying. Now whats up?'

'Faaaaaaarrrkkkiiiiiinnn 'ell honey ya bought me a new tshirt wiv labels on the faaarrrkkkin thing. Everyone knows us surfees don't wear faaarkin labels anymore. Fuckin 'ell how am I sposed to play farkin' surfin' now honey??!!! This is fucked!'

Pipsqueak Disclaimer

This statement is to inform people that, I, Lifty, have never associated with or been associated with pipsqeaks and their squwarkers, in any form or manner, nor will I.

I also have never spoken to or associated with those who are terrified of pipsqeaks and their squwarkers, and would never recommend that any one do so.

Thankyou.

zenagain's picture
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zenagain Sunday, 31 Aug 2014 at 5:51pm

You really do have a lot of time on your hands don't you?

Did you have a surf today Kickass?

I just got back from a four hour sesh at a local reef. Didn't get dropped in on once. But when I do, I'll know who to call. Don't forget the ginger in my smoothy next time either and don't take any sips on the way back ya big lug.

gromfull's picture
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gromfull Sunday, 31 Aug 2014 at 3:04pm

You have cornered yourself now uplift, back up those words, next time there is decent swell at Kirra or snapper, get yourself out there and sort em out,
Now that's something I would watch

uplift's picture
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uplift Sunday, 31 Aug 2014 at 3:13pm

'Now that's something I would watch.'

I bet you'd be hiding up the top somewhere watching chump.

gromfull's picture
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gromfull Sunday, 31 Aug 2014 at 3:39pm

You've said it now get out there show us how it's supposed to be done, and no I'll be right there laughing me head off

uplift's picture
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uplift Sunday, 31 Aug 2014 at 3:54pm

I've surfed with all those guys, at plenty of spots, and never had a problem. What you have to unlearn chump, is that you have no sway or influence, or say at all. Zero.

gromfull's picture
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gromfull Sunday, 31 Aug 2014 at 4:19pm

I say anything but ask you to show us how it is supposedly done because your the man apparently, and yes I have no say, do I want a say, no, who am I or anyone else to question your great authority.
You are the one paying out on people for not being man enough
So again o greatest of all human beings please show us how it's done

Rabbits68's picture
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Rabbits68 Sunday, 31 Aug 2014 at 4:40pm

And with all this aggro/disrespect/drop-ins etc going on nowdays in most line-ups, is it any wonder that the hot complex topic of "Exclusive" surf breaks keeps getting discussed.

What is the point of having an epic surf break absolutely pumping if people just burn people?? Wheres the enjoyment?? Wayne Lynch told a great story about how he dealt with such a problem. The story may have been embeleshed, or maybe not, but it is possibly the only answer to deal with people who don't respond well to poilte conversation.......

uplift's picture
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uplift Sunday, 31 Aug 2014 at 7:19pm

Look, this is a true story... an exciting story that shows how we can all get along.

There were a spate of shark attacks over my way. The Abbertons and side kicks from yorkes were staying with Jeff. All sorts of blabberish and squwarking was in the sky up around streaky. I had been having plenty of surf. I'd seen the odd car (very odd I might add) on the cliff at blacks, the weird driver looking at perfect surf, quivering and endlessly calculating the reward risk ratios before speeding off in terror to the wrong turn off etc. Nothing out of the ordinary. Its grey, overcast, still, 6 foot glass, odd phantom, no one out, so I called Jeff that I was going out for a surf, if the Abbertons wanted to surf, its perfect, no one around. While I was surfing, a couple of hours later, a ski flies out from the ramp with a pack of 'kids' on it. They politely ask if I mind them towing into the phantom sets, 'no worries, just keep the ski away from me, I'm waiting for the Abbertons to see them surf.' I enjoy watching good surfers in good waves. The 'kid' on the back gets dropped off along side me and the ski heads out to the phantom zone. That 'kid' turns out to be a guy in his thirtees, introduces himself as something along the lines of 'killer' from chi's. (I won't use his real name, he's a nice guy, and its too embarrassing).

A set comes, killer starts screaming his head of and screeching in terror, and bolts to the middle of anxious. One of the 'kids' gets towed into a good one, next thing I find out that 'kid' is one of the Abbertons. They look bigger in the pictures, but I remind myself they are always photographed standing next to slattsey, thunder and fannsy and stuff. Although its a shock.

Its grey, drizzling, and as I'm paddling back out after a wave, a huge bull seal pops up, acting really agitated. It heads toward 'killer' still freaking half way out in anxious bay somewhere. I feel sorry for 'killer' so warn him not to panic if he sees a big shape, its probably a seal. It pops up next to 'killer' who starts screeching even more and wants to know how to get in, and is screaming frantically to the Abbertons out at the phantom to come in and save him. The seal starts doing weird shit, so I tell 'killer' from yorkes I'm heading in, follow me. He won't come over near the sets, is frozen in terror. I paddle over to outside the pimple, the Abbertons come down, I tell them about the seal, and that their 'mate', 'killer' is freaking. 'Fuck him, he's not our mate?' They are heading in, ask if I want a lift. 'No, save 'killer', he's going into a coma.' I go in, and later everyone comes up to the carpark. They look bigger in the pictures. The sun comes out, rainbows form, the surf pumps, the 'locals' roll up, and everyone has a great late surf. The very odd car pulls up again, some geek gets out, does a heap of calculations in the dust in the carpark, and speeds off squwarking in the opposite direction, to the wrong turn off... nothing out of the ordinary.

My kids ask me if I had a nice day, I tell them I met some guy named 'killer' from chi's. They ask me if he was the weird guy speeding around in the wrong direction.

Everyone lives happily ever after.

Craig's picture
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Craig Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 1:54pm

Great little story, random but great.

islandman's picture
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islandman Sunday, 31 Aug 2014 at 7:58pm

um wtf????

stunet's picture
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stunet Sunday, 31 Aug 2014 at 8:02pm

Well I enjoyed it.

I'm as confused as you are, but I enjoyed it.

gromfull's picture
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gromfull Sunday, 31 Aug 2014 at 8:05pm

You'd get a job at Disney, writing for little golden books, you've fucking lost it, see a doctor before it's too late

syril500's picture
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syril500 Sunday, 31 Aug 2014 at 8:08pm

That barrel of Joel's was only 18 seconds. Talk about talking it up.

evosurfer's picture
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evosurfer Sunday, 31 Aug 2014 at 11:06pm

Nothing has been remotely talked up compared to the pathetic rubbish they had
for the fearful capefear. Now that was a beat up. No just a very poor JOKE.

islandman's picture
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islandman Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 1:48pm

for sure evosurfer it was a bit of a letdown especially after teahupoo , the best part was watching them getting in and out of the water!

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evosurfer Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 3:41pm

Uplift im more then a little confused. What is the moral of your tale.

uplift's picture
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uplift Monday, 1 Sep 2014 at 10:12pm

'Uplift im more then a little confused. What is the moral of your tale.'

Big is beautiful.

stray-gator_2's picture
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stray-gator_2 Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 10:11am

Asshat, there's nothing I can say that you haven't said yourself.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Narcissistic_personality_disorder

uplift's picture
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uplift Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 8:17pm

'Uplift im more then a little confused. What is the moral of your tale.'

'Big is beautiful.'

Which:

1. As can be seen, is the subject of much intensive study and investigation by many, which I whole heartedly approve of, as for the avid investigators, the study is uplifting.

2. And as beautifully demonstrated again, and again, and again, and again... did I say again, invokes much ineffectual squwarking, ludicrous sqwarkups... ie

'Asshat, there's nothing I can say that you haven't said yourself.'

Which in keeping on topic, displays the effortless beauty of humble, raw boned bigness. And displays the moral of the saga. Humble, raw boned bigness is in itself enough. 'Big is beautiful.' In the presence of the bigness, sometimes lovingly referred to as the 'big lug', the inneffectual squwarking soon transforms into a desperate, shrill, yet peacefull bleat.

After 40 years of extraordinary bigness, applied to surfing , the result is an unblemished, an unmarked, an untouched... pristinity. Lifty. That extraordinary, yet humble bigness, effortlessly creates an aura of bleating peace wherever it goes. In its mere presence, the squwarking lions quickly, unconsciously become bleating lambs. The extraordinarily big, humble raw boned 'lug' effortlessly connects, Lifty's, 'lugs' the squwarkers to their peace. The fences drop away.

http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/pristine

But, again, please, please, please... please don't make yet another thread all about Lifty. All I ever wanted was a life of reflected reclusinationless. Surely kirra is more exciting than big ol me.

Blowin's picture
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Blowin Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 8:52pm

It's not, please expand on your thoughts...

sir ambrose beachfucker's picture
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sir ambrose bea... Tuesday, 2 Sep 2014 at 8:54pm

pristine- related to pristine brand-new mint fresh span-new virgin virginal visayan souvenir

uplift's picture
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uplift Wednesday, 3 Sep 2014 at 12:12am

Poor ambling. Another beautiful squwark up. Seeing as I'm being dragged kicking and screaming out of golden reclusinationless, perhaps I should go back far earlier in time. Grade one to be exact.

Because it was then that it struck me like a bolt of golden lightning, whilst listening to the likes of ambled, the squwarkers, my then class mates, with their little confused faces screwed up and frowning, calculating that 2 + 1= 14, or that cat is spelled b... e... d. I wondered what happens to these idiots when they grow up. As I looked out the window, the horror struck me that they drive cars, 'operate' things, 'invent' things, mate and have offspring, become politicians... and as I looked at my teacher, the full horror set in. All of that simply boiled down to a collective, cosmic squwark. Imagine it, a gifted, a somewhat enchanted, a big golden child, a literal Roger Bannister of life, surrounded by packs of 'expert', squwarking, 5 minute cork heads (not you blinder).

Anyway I became more interested in the ironicography of my predicament, and instinctively asked God what to do. The answer came through loud and clear...

'Forgive the poor losers... and train them.'

To which I cried out,

'Fucking 'train' them'!???!!! Are you fucking serious, have a fuckin' go at 'em!!!!???!!! For fuck's sake!'

'Yes train them... especially the pip squeaks.'.. and camslessness and toddler, even gorilla boy.

Again I cried out,

'Fucking 'train' them!???!!! Are you fucking serious, have a fuckin' go at 'em!!!!???!!! For fuck's sake!' How?'

Again the answer came clear, and loud (much to the teacher's, whom the monumentessnous of the occasion was lost on, confusion).

'Dont worry, there will lots of squwarking up, and yes the inevitable squwarking down, and endless, ludicrous risk, reward bumbling, petrified calculations, along the lines of what you are now witnessing, but your sheer, raw boned, humble, good looking talent, size and muscularity will effortlessly take care of everything.'

So, as you can see I was destined to surf. And train them. And forgive. And be a peacemaker. As I headed in one direction, west, to blacks, thousands and thousands and thousands and thousands and thousands and thousands of petrified bug eyed units, frantically sped off in the opposite direction. Even to the fucking mid... and the eastern seaboard.

So simply put, if fannsy and parko burn you, dunk 'em. Tell 'em Lifty sent ya. Expand. And ignore the squwarking. All will be fine.

And everyone will live happily ever after, 'trained'.

uplift's picture
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uplift Wednesday, 3 Sep 2014 at 12:09am

'Train them are you fucking serious!!!!????!!!'

uplift's picture
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uplift Wednesday, 3 Sep 2014 at 12:10am

'Train them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!' Thanks a fucking lot.'

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sbsb's picture
sbsb Wednesday, 3 Sep 2014 at 1:59am

Looking good! It was easier for the average surfer to get a wave in the 1980s when I grew up surfing it, but the standard of surfing and the numbers are now a lot higher. However the so-called golden age wasn't as golden as some would tell it, if the more prominent crew either didn't recognise you or thought you couldn't do anything about it (*cough* Bruce Lee) you were going to get burned on the good days. We also know through all the debates on Swellnet and elsewhere that before the groynes the waves were about as consistent as they are now: not at all. And even in the glory days there were many years where it was under 30 days of decent surfing. The camera often lies as others have said, as does the memory of the past. Happy to see some lucky ones getting theirs, wish it was me getting dropped in on!

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Wednesday, 3 Sep 2014 at 7:06am

Kirra through the eyes of Ishka Folkwell on utube 13 mins , more pro's in pits and burning,and lots of local lads pulling in.