Surfing's Latest Period Drama
The setting: The carpark of a Mid North Coast breakwall. Last Thursday.
After finishing a session in great three to four feet waves I stand behind my car changing into my clothes. It's still early and there aren't many people around.
A van pulls into the carpark and two fashionably unkempt young fellas get out. They nod and ask me about the surf before walking over the dune to check it themselves. Two minutes later they're back in the carpark getting changed out of their clothes.
The first fella doffs his duds and pulls on a pair of cut-off denim jeans. He teams them with a circa-1970's sleeveless vest and I raise an eyebrow. Accordingly, the second fella also dons a pair of cut-off denim jeans but matches it with a long-sleeve beavertail wetsuit. It's a fair dinkum 1960's scuba-diving number with thick neoprene and chunky chest zip. Both eyebrows raised, I'm plainly staring now.
Boards get removed from the van and on first sight they perfectly match the period surf apparel – a short double-ender with a high aspect ratio fin and a full-figured longboard. Upon closer inspection however, their charity bin surfwear pales against their designer model sticks - one board is a Joel Tudor model Kookbox the other a Takayama. $2000 worth of hardware is sitting on the grass.
Now I understand the argument of young surfers, reared on thrusters, discovering old boards for the first time; how they feel different and can expand the surfing experience. But why spend big bucks on aquatic PT Cruisers while eschewing humble sartorial comforts? Are dank jeans, manky crotch rot and a biting wetsuit rash really necessary to complete the experience?
Is this authenticity or an affectation?
And if it is a lunge at authenticity, then why do the two boards lying on the grass – both throwbacks to the 60's - have legropes attached? If these two fellas were acting in a period drama then those legropes are standing out like a digital watch on the wrist of an 18th century British Earl.
Call me an old curmudgeon, complaining about kids these days. But, fuck, at least I don't need a rocking chair and cane to complete the role. Anyway, there is one thing I am thankful for, and that's that the two fellas aren't riding alaias. I'm not yet ready for loin cloths in the line up.
Comments
...."Anyway, there is one thing I am thankful for, and that's that the two fellas aren't riding alaias. I'm not yet ready for loin cloths in the line up."
You owe me a mouthful of instant coffee for that one.
so stu... do you have a problem with younger generations riding older boards/older stle boards or just that they are putting new technologies on the boards??
I have been riding sinle fins for the last 3 years and most of them are from the 70's. They ride like nothing else out there. And there isn't another 500 of them sitting on the ripcurl shelf..
let them enjoy themselves. My fav is a stringerless tracker with a waveset fin...
The only problem I have Kurt is when surfing turns into a fancy dress party. On it's own riding old boards is unreal - my fave is a 10'6" Gordon Woods from 1964 - but you don't need a beavertail to understand how it rides.
Yes, but it helps you get laid with hipster chicks.
(not that I would know, of course).
Good point....I'm knitting a pair of loin cloths now.
We prefer wallaby skin harvested from roadkill in these parts.
if they were really serious they'd be wearing old footy jumpers, not neoprene. thats the way it used to be done down south in the 60's.
Also they'd be riding perfect 4 ft barrels everyday, as thats also how it used to be in the 60's. But that's another article
You're absolutely right TLC - here's the other article: http://www.swellnet.com.au/news/2183-scientists-say-waves-getting-bigger...
Well done Stu. Loved it.
I run into these assholes on a daily basis in my little corner of hell.
They talk in 3-5 word sentences in the carparks, usually tilting their heads to one side, letting their Euro-wank air fall conspicuously over a single eye, and constantly giving you that “I can’t believe you just said that†look. They usually say “Oh. My. Gawad,†and they say it all the time, followed by a quick laugh that makes you think, “Is he really stupid or is he fucking with me?â€
Urge to kill... rising...
As funny as they might look in their beaver suits, aren't they supporting shapers and surfers just trying to make a living? It's hard for local surf companies to make a buck competing with the big boys unless they can come up with something new... or old, as it were. Better they shell out their hard-earned on $1k sticks made by local surfer/shapers over ebaying $400 chinese popouts made by slaves who've never been in in the ocean.
And of course they're using leggies - no-one wants to cop a board in the face, even if it is a rolled hull entry scoop nose...
@earthsmoltencore,
S-A-R-C-A-S-M.
What that spells? I have no idea. But I heard it's a relevant term. Buh-bye.
The best bit about riding old boards is to understand why things progressed.
The best bit about old boards for the younger 'hip' crowd is that it's not uncool to be thick, wide and float on a 'Retro' design. I guarantee you if you took a standard thruster outline and scaled it up to the volumes of these 'Retro' designs the board would go faster, turn better and be easier to ride.
It's just not as cool as riding a Volane 5'11 Single fin or Twin.
And I'd agree the Beavertail wetsuit, hair do and Wayfarers do not enhance the experience......
Seriously,who cares?
Should they have been wearing Billabong hoodies and chino's?
Unkempt?Maybe outfitted in wetties emblazoned with Q/s logo's (black of course)instead of having a bit of fun.
Oh ,and the equipment.Maybe a couple of mass-produced pieces of crap designed and manufactured offshore that will fall apart in two months and are only functional for around 3% of surfers.
I don't get it. Were they enjoying themselves too much or something?
I agree with you garry-weed sounds like Mr Nettle has an attitude problem.
I just gotta add to this one, In the I states I believe its called the California scene. Just watch the dvd fresh fruit for rotting vegtables and you'l see first hand what the fuss is about. Its all about surfing all types of different craft and getting back to surfing just for fun.Ive been riding long boards for about three years and competing a club level for about two and really liking the scene compared to the crazed over ampped short board scene. What I was really suprized about was just how friendly and welcoming all of the crew are young and old. I'm starting to notice a few cracks appearing though! ie some crew from the big smoke rolling up fully decked out and not totally understanding what the whole thing is about other than dressing cool to pull chicks. The only avdise I have for these weekend warriors is that this is a mellow scene be cool! Last week I was surfing left point at phillip Island when this really agro over done retro warrior with a bever tail tried to drop in on me on an aliia!! and his equally overdone retro mate tried to drop in on a log down the line whilst giving me a filthy look through his hip fringe! Whats the world coming too!
g-weed and goaty...do you skim read or do you really not get it??
let me break it down: old boards are cool, but you dont need to wear a beavertail to enjoy a malibu, the same as you dont need a loin cloth to ride an alaia. wearing period cloths signifies you as someone who starts with a w and the rest of you is on the front of the boat.
Skim read maybe...But are assumptions really being made on what someone chooses to wear in the water?So..people who don't wear beavertails therefore aren't w anchors?
I've always found that the most dangerous anchors are the ones who worry about what other people are doing,wearing or surfing on.
'G-weed , I think you're over-thinking this. Stu's just indulging in a good old fashioned bit of piss-taking.
And it's hard not to when you see the herd mentality of the average retro hispter.
And Takayamas and Kook-Boxs are both overseas designed (if not made) boards so your other point is moot.
So nice to see the word moot being used here.
who really gives a shit?
Beaver tails fo lyfe / fuk da haterzz
Stop wining about what another surfer wears. Its not a fashion comp.....
As for surfing older boards or retro remakes, go for it.
As I'm sitting in my car looking at the two sweet little single fins I have next to me. One 79 Mic McGrigor (shaped by jack knight) and the other a back yard job I swapped for a sic pack of extra dry about 6 years
back. Which I think is about 74-75. I can't tell you how much they have taught me about board design and performance. They are alot harder to ride than my 6'2 standard JS but there I'd also a great joy in the challenge they provide trying to surf them well.
Exactly Huon, 'It's not a fashion comp'. Which makes it all the more ridiculous that surfers would choose fashion - a beavertail wetsuit, really! - over function.
I've often thought a beaver tail would have many advantages i.e. keeping the important places warm, not letting your vest ride up your back etc etc
Does this mean i can finally go surfing at D'bah in just my 2mm long legged wetsuit pants or cammo spear fishing wetsuit???
There are those that try. Those that try hard. And those that try hardest.
I read the beavertail and alaia circus poodles loud and clear.
Style over substance.
Like Joel Parkinson double claiming a six point ride.
Joel Parkinson, style over substance!?
Sounds like you're on the substances yourself buddy.
Give me Darryl Parkinson any day!
Or even Kevin Parkinson.
Well fuck me, what about Doug Parkinson? Or maybe take Michael Parkinson while you're there?
What's the matter with Parko's (Joel Parko's) surfing???
@Atticus,
Why yes... I am. It takes a bit of insular narcotics to numb one's mind 'gainst the slings and arrows of egregious failure.
"Style over substance.
Like Joel Parkinson double claiming a six point ride."
Think on it a bit, and call me in the morning.
Yeah OK, I get it. Parko has been getting a bit excited lately. But at least do your bit for nationalism and pick on a Brazilian, will you?
let your surfing do the talking, not what you wear. douchey hipsters
you only had to bear the indignity of wearing a nappy(ie dive suit of any sort front zip and collar)in the 70's and the bagging your mates would give you, never mind the multiple rashes and fact you couldn't move your arms above horizontal when paddling to never want to wear one again..by all means wear retro gear/ride boards but the best fashion statement you can make is to carve like MR or cutback like MP...if those young fellas had only donned pairs of stubbies in opposing red and yellow !!!(boardshorts for young and uninitiated, not beers..i am waiting for some marketing/surf company to bring em' back)
Oh Stu your forgot to mention the body ink descriptions!!
Only problem with the old Stubbies scoops Prawn is your tackle tends to slip out the leg and say hello at inopportune times.
so... have we finally decided thats its fine to ride the retro boards if your not taking it to the limit like wearing beaver tails or pulling out the fluoro wetties... oath i surfed a 6' trigger bros single fin on the weekend and i was able to catch more waves than the other blokes on thinner boards but yet 6'6. Let the young crowd (like me) enjoy the older shapes without saying 'what the fuck are ya doing with that?' Let us enjoy the different feel of the boards
Sorry for pointing out the blatantly obvious.....but you are all making a great case to ride bodyboards....as long as you don't wear a beavertail wetsuit!
As a bloke, there was a short period, probably around May 1970, where it was cool to wear cut off jeans.
Outside of that very brief period, there are no circumstances where cut off jeans and males should intersect, except in removing said item from buxom wenches.
And the big problem with beaver tails, apart from the fact that they are so hot and stiff, is that Stu was talking about a mid north coast break last week. Isn't it a bit warm for that???
While I really don't care about fashion, and generally don't concern myself too much with people who wear steamers in early summer, I do draw the line at cut off jeans.
A man has to have some standards, sheesh.
morning loyal subjects, have been on a 7' blue sprit ultra sharp pin tail, lots of fun really smooth but draw the line at period costumery and associated hairstyles. can anyone shed light on the origins of this board i think that it may be early 70's?
Morning Sire,
There's not much info around on Blue Spirit boards, 'cept they existed in the early 70's (72 to about 74) and they were shaped by Wayne Parkes. Parkes now shapes in NZ so that board you're drawing smooth lines on is more than likely a Kiwi flyer.
At your service,
Medium-sized Stu
thank you big mr nettle, your quick respone was unexpected and most assuredly welcome this board came to me via an old friend who shuffled off this mortal coil and his wife gave it to me its in imacculate condition no dings but one thing that puzzles me is , and i really should know i am bigwayne, it has a fin box did they have them in that period? i was only youngbigwayne then, thank you , this is feerless leeder with hat in hand
yes they did have fin boxes back then, i have a couple of boards from that period with fin boxes and some even have the original fins. I even have a 1960's surfboard with a removebale fin (screws in each end).
To quote Wayne Lynch "They were pieces of shit then, and they are pieces of shit now". I began surfing on the beaches of San Diego (1970) wearing cut off jeans, a beaver tail diving suit top and the most horrendous 7'6" single fin (no leash) imaginable. I prefer today's finely tuned surfboards, light and stretchy board shorts, and state of the art wetsuits.
I'll go out on a limb here and say I was a big fan of the neoprene boardies a-la Tom Curren and the man known as Kong, who formally rejected the name Kong, who upon reflection, in time thought it wasn't too bad a name and is now known again as Kong.
What was I thinking?
Love to take the 70's single relic out for a spin from time to time, just to mix things up.
I agree with B&K above, mates do not let mates wear cut-off jean shorts. (or roller-blades)
Unreal, I was half a generation ahead of the curve. No one wanted these kind of boards in the early '90's, they were all mine! The first 5 metres of that 10kg 1962 Cordingleys, at speed and momentum, totally hooked. Paddling a 1972 Brothers Nielsen into 6 foot Down South, what a feeling. The Kirra of old on a 6'10 single fin, mind blowing. I still ride and love them to this day. With modern wetsuits, modern clothing, modern station wagon, mind you. Stu, you should do an article on another fringe group, the 40 to 50 something guys who grew up as the thruster took over and to this day refuse to try any other form of surf craft! They are out there. The amount of sessions they miss according to their strict religion which demands a certain type of wave is staggering.
who is this wayne lynch never heard of him, surely there cannot be another bigwayne out there? could there be? you cant handle one of oneself let alone two! anyhoo, mr jack, oneself has a little collection of these lovelys, 6'0 bennett circa1980 to 8'4" gordon woods "shortboard" circa1960`s ride them all the time they go hand in hand with ones preferred method of transport, 9'1" hp log they do help ones need to perfect ones already much loved (and copied) style. one does agree with the last sentence though
Anyone out there ever pulled that beavertail up round your crotch and fastened it?
Talk about comfy tackle.
Couple a guys out at Haleiwa over the weekend riding alias. one in a beavertail, sideslipping down beautiful waves, biting it and sending their sacred wooden blades through the throngs of kids inside.
Do they make leash plugs for alias?
mr fish, the answer to your question is hell no! no self respecting royal would ware that , stubbies yes beavertail no! cut the arms off old footy jumpers yes beavertail no! the royal tackle is not to be restrained how can one sow the royal seeds when ones tackle beavertailed? i ask you? this is a question by your feerless leeder and reserve wax caddy
Beavertails are fkn hilarious!
Im gonna trawl the opshops to find one this weekend.
heyyy, granted I know that I will never spend thhat much again on a new stick, let alone a tia chi popout but I totally did just forked out $821.00 USD for my 6'0" Tom Eberly 'Good Karma' Joel Tudor Surfboards, the authenic flex fin is worth a hundo spot right there babylon ease off you better back of b'coz some are rage or summer rage
im 29, at what point or age will I be too old to ride my thruster ?
will it still be cool to ride it when i'm 72 ?
Period Drama ends with a twist.
2019 swellnetonian unearths 1970' pre breakwall surfers from the future.
Retro Surfboard afficandos do yourself a favour and check out this Goldie Timewarp.
Surely soon iconic Photo was supplied to GC Library by Ms Betty Derrick
https://digitalbank.goldcoast.qld.gov.au/vital/access/manager/Repository...
tbb can date the photo to roughly 1970-71 (as it's pre 1972-3 Currumbin Breakwall)
https://digitalbank.goldcoast.qld.gov.au/vital/access/manager/Repository...
What's odd is that there is so much out of place? (First look' Photo screams 1978-9)
The prog boards have modern Rounded Square tail shapes & size of 1979 boards.
Now add the new Vest (10 years before GC time)+ It's coloured as if 1979 design.
Throw in the Crowded lineup 10 years before it's time...
Sure Ok! The longer fin is a trademark of the day but only just at that.
tbb puts it down to Prog late '60's / Early '70's Currumbin Shapers Hub of the Era.
So funny that it screams wealthy '70's solo dudes riding the wave of tomorrow.
Breakwall & Alley lineup was coming on the next year & they were more than ready!
Total prog flip to retro '70's story that ends the same no matter what...Gotta laugh!
Love to hear the Old School tales of surfing this seabound GC right hander...Classic!
Thanks again Betty!
So weird to think Devils wind was perfect for Currumbin reverse right.
Check next photo with northerly howling out back, but all looks fine.
tbb Bonus Photo of Shark Alley (1965) Big Thanks to Mr Stephen Fleay
https://www.facebook.com/280745045301771/photos/a.616921775017428/616921...
Seen these guys lately Stu?
Only very occasionally. Few of them around these parts.