A Realsurf staple-( sorry Priddes for the plagarism)
No surf today but off to Vicco tomorrow for the weekend so heres hoping!
Got a beautiful after work surf yesterday evening, just me and my daughter. Glassy beach break peak. Steely grey. Steak sandwich’s …..
Groundhog day. Overhead, offshore no-one around. Surfed the same spot as yesterday. Word hasn't spread yet!
First light was the perfect tide for the south swell bank. Had it to myself for the better part of an hour before another surfer paddled out.
Still trying to get my paddle fitness back after nearly five months out of the water. Rode the mid-length a few times over the weekend thinking that would help, but after too many frustrations I took it home, de-finned it, and threw it in the back in the rack, never to come out unless it's 2ft and under.
Just don't get the desire to surf them. After the drop the most natural thing in the world is to heave it off the bottom and aim for the lip, but a middy and longboard aren't looking for those lines and I'm not yet at the age where I can get a good trim can get me excited.
MidNorCoast Point break renowned for being pretty but gutless,rode the pipedream/Bourton Missile.Five long ones in half an hour.
Never underestimate the desirability of a good trim.
" I'm not yet at the age where I can get a good trim can get me excited."
Nor me Stu, so you have a fair way to go. I would rather catch half the waves and struggle on some of them for the sake of nailing a couple of good ones!
worst of both worlds Stu?
I ride my middy as a palate cleanser, if I'm going between two very different styles of board, or as a hangover cure, or an easy paddler on a big/current day, or to deal with school holiday crowds etc etc.
Sometimes just nice trimming a little winter v-bank on a small day if the power is a bit low for a shortboard.
Generally don't stay on one for long though.
I ride my middy because I've stacked on a few kegs. Anything overhead and I'm back on a HPT.
3 days in a row of good winds and 5 foot swell...didnt surf tosmorning though as it was too full and crowded..another few days and all the tourists will piss off!
No tourists down here gs. We are still in lockdown, with only 100km of surfable coast to play with in our LGA. It's just not right...but somebody has to do it, can't let those waves go totally unridden..
Stu- Have you got a fish with a bit of volume to replace your mini mal?
Despite having a fish that I absolutely adore, I’ve found a shorty which has just about replaced it in the small wave niche. I shaped this back in April, lost touch with it over a winter of good waves and have recently rediscovered it as the perfect spring time wave slayer.
It’s 5’11 * 20* 2 7/16. Not sure how many litres? It feels to be around 32 or so? Paddles like a dream, gets into waves beautifully, speed to burn as soon as you get to your feet. Turns on a dime with plenty of drive. Gets overpowered once the waves get a bit of push though….not really an issue around here at this time of year.
Feeling pretty chuffed about my quiver at the moment. Geez it’s a nice feeling to have a few boards to can rely on.
Waves today were pretty fun. The ocean is like a blue dream. Only small but plenty of them. Couple of pockets to slash and lips to belt. That’s enough under a cloudless sky and a happy sun.
Hope regional crew are getting there fill cause the superspreader stampede comes Monday.
Yeh I intend to leave it to them if it gets busy. Lots of people haven't had much chance lately.
Absolutely trying to get as much time in the water as I can before next weeks exodus. Should be interesting to see what happens when the flood gates open.
I'm getting as much water time in as I can as I pretty much missed autumn and winter.
Yeah, the mid-length has been promptly relegated - thank fuck I didn't spend too much money on it. Yesterday and today I rode a 5'10" stubby quad with Dumpster Diver-style tail, except asymmetrical. Lot of foam for paddling, planes nicely, can do a reo when necessary.
Reckon I'll be back onto my standard shorty in a few days.
Whats Middy dims ?
6'10" x 21' 3/4'' x 2' 3/4. Set up as quad.
Love my middy.
But I prefer it for 2-4ft and use a short twinny to grovel smaller than that.
I recently purchased a MC hybrid reverse v , having a ball in knee to shoulder high crap that dbar dishes up. Great board for the gutless shit we get up here 70% of the time .
Just got Machado’s firewire Sunday 7ft to compliment my Machado Sunday 5.10. Super fun board. Had 2 surfs on it now. Helium Technology is just perfect.
Good stuff roadkill. I had a rob machado almond butter but didnt like it. It couldnt handle the juice in WA even at a novelty spot that doesnt get bigger than 3-4 ft on 8 meter swells.
the nose would always bounce around no matter where you put your foot..
Sold it with a board bag (new) and controller fins for $400.
When i ordered it it was a 4-5 month wait..
Anyway heard good things about his other shapes but no good ones for his almond butters which he doesnt make any more.
yeah, I hate that Helium Tech.
so light and bouncy.
feels horrible to me.
I love Helium Tech. I have a Seaside also and find it the best short board I've ever had. I can do more on it than any other board I've had. I'm pretty sure my skill level is low compared to many in here, and as an average kook I am sure I miss the finer points on what works.
Never heard of his almond butter. That shit don't work...it's goonski.
Had a doctors appointment at 9 am so didnt surf tosmorning. Checked it, it looked smaller than the last 3 days then went to the doctor to check out my new mole that has a red ring around it...only appeared in the last two or three weeks..he said 30% chance its a melanoma so i have to get it cut out today, made another appointment at 3pm and went home. Decided to go for a surf as i wouldnt be surfing for a week with stitches in my foot...it was surprisingly really really fun and by myself on sonnies left..a few hectic drops on some sets but surfable on the medium ones..the odd freak set was too sucky and dry for my current skill level but i had a ball for 45 minutes on my RTT then went to the doctor..we have really good doctors here considering its such a small town...anyway got it cut out will find out in 10 days if its benign or not..good day.
Went for a paddle at Burleigh…surf was crap, but still better than staying in bed. The best way to start the day even with more paddling than surfing. Came in and had a Nook coffee. Lots of interesting folk out walking to watch. Life is good.
Haven't even looked today but yesterday was OK at my local. Great conditions but shifting peaks into a mix of close outs and super fast peelers made for a mixed session. Probably used the wrong board as a little bit more length would have made the difference on a couple. Probably chill for the weekend. Monday looks better.
Looked like the WOTD ..... but with a right on the other side. Crowd level? Same.
Surfed a wave yesterday regarded by all and sundry as C-grade. However, it must have been having a "moment". 20 + waves, couple of covers and even got bounced off the inside suck rock (just to show me who's boss).
Goes to show that every dog (and wave) has its' day, stoked...
SG - Great - glad to here and well deserved . It is amazing what a good surf can do for the recipient .
Stoked the City lockdown crews haven't arrived yet. Barely a handful of locals today here and the waves were super fun before the light onshore took the edge off it. I'm making the most out of it all until the city folk bomb the joint. I don't surf crowds anymore so I'm expecting that I will go into a self imposed stay at home order when they hit. Get em into ya.
thinking the same thing TS.
got some little tidal backwaters to explore
Surfed my local today. 3-4ft a bit funky and a bugger of a paddle out. A few others on a slabby A frame right further down but no-one on the lefts running down to it. Too much fun!
What part on nsw are you on BB?
Couldnt sleep last night in desire to finally surf some offshore waves today as the forecasts looked good on several sites even have today off work but a few coffees and im rat shit..surf turned out to be really good, solid 4ft at the point but im too buggered to surf today. My fave bodyboard wave has occasional waves but theres three people out which is two too many for the ratio of waves connecting through.They even paddled out from the other side of the rip against the grain so they arent from here but i dont call myself a local here so im not hassling them.One of the better surfers here like Sam B or one of the Perkins brothers might go out later if i have a snooze and film them later on if its still offshore.
Might have enough energy to surf but i doubt it.
I am in Ulladulla. Not much wind at all this morning but the swell wasn't what you would call groomed. From what others were saying not a lot of real quality anywhere so I probably got as good as was available for the morning session.
lovely stretch of coast there.
Not as lovely as it used to be. The fires smashed a lot of forest locally and recovery has been slow. Where are you?
Kalbarri but thinking about a move back to Bawley point if i get work.
Maybe in a few years move there. i like it here. cheap to live and you only have to work a few shifts a week and still get plenty of time to surf, consistent swells rarely gets below 1-2foot at swell magnets.
and handles many winds if you're willing to drive a few hours and set tyre pressure.
Coming good down here. Touch bigger than this morning and it seems to be pushing most people towards the reefs, yet the beaches are sorta handling. Probably not for much longer with the tide dropping, but for a while there it was fun hunting down the shoulders.
Sheet glass conditions and warm water helped.
would have loved to have surfed where todays WOTD was shot
groundswell do you know Glenn Brown, owns a cray boat and has two hot surfers for sons? I used to hang out with him in Dee Why forever ago. Classic character.
the Brown brothers rip thats all i know, courtney is the friendliest bloke you could ever meet..champion. havent met their father.
Must take after his father!
Yeah haha, whats your first name? if i see Courtney ill tell him you said g'day to Glenn.
Tell Courtney to ask his Dad about the bloke he bought the Unsweetened Hawaiian Juice t-shirt from.
haha ok no probs. By the way i cant find it now im going to sleep in a sec but check out tthis Kerby the other brother's vid coming out soon.
Facing Monsters. Glenn has been posting about it on fb.
ok no worries.
Frustrating , very lumpy here for the last couple of days..
Some bloody huge bluebottles turned up today just to cap it off.
Slept for about 12 hours checked the surf and the points solid 3-5 foot maybe even 6 foot occasionally but south winds so the points choppy but surfed sonnies left with my brother by ourselves, solid 3 foot in there protected from the wind and closing out across the bay on freak sets. Had about 6 waves in an hour on my rasta torus twin.
My brother took my lid out and was pulling into some sets which were nearly dry, the medium 2 foot waves were supersucky and i got a pit laying on my guts on my RTT on one medium wave.