A Realsurf staple-( sorry Priddes for the plagarism)
No surf today but off to Vicco tomorrow for the weekend so heres hoping!
Gary G commands his own orbit. I’m not ashamed to admit that I’ve felt it’s gravitational pull.
I’m not sure how many G’s i was pulling before I blacked out , but I woke up becalmed and serene, with a spring in my step like a great weight had been lifted.
Then there was also the small matter of the fresh hundred dollar bill in my pocket .....a bit of sugar on top of the cab fare home.
Now I know what all the fuss is about.
I'm sure Gary G doesn't have to pay!
Charlie Sheen : “ I don’t pay hookers for sex - I pay them to leave. “
Off the front page
Ain't no greater force to expose yourself to than the one and only Gary G.
Except perhaps an on-duty member of the police force, depending on whether they're into that thing or not...
Gary had a great surf this morning. Arriving by cover of darkness, as is Gary's style, he found the surf larger than expected, and crowd waaaaaaay lower than expected.
Managed a blissful 90 mins in 4ft+ wedges that were getting steeper and cleaner by the minute as the tide drew out and the wind started to blow offshore. By the end of the surf it was pumping, with the crowd within Gary's radius peaking at a comfortable Menage a Trois.
Gary hasn't had so much fun in summer since they broadcast a Schwarzenegger movie marathon in the TV off season.
Gary Schwarzenegger when questioned on the improbable bulge in his wetsuit- “No, it is not a tumour !”
Went for the dawn patrol this morning at the beach where I grew up (& was my local for 20 years before rising rents forced me inland). Only small - waist-high, with a very rare shoulder-high "bomb" - but glassy, beautiful shape, and not another person in sight. Sometimes the world doesn't seem so bad.
Classic arvo. Every vantage point on the coast showing deep lines brushed by a clean westerly. Surfed local, but not 'the local'. Feels like we've put that horrible summer to bed.
Woke up in an apartment on the point at your old local this morning and went for a predawn walk to check the joint out. Small but groomed . Definitely more swell up the Eloura end. Rolling beachies good for a mal or fish. Better for drinking coffee and watching insanely hot women in tights power walking on the esplanade.
Didn’t have a board with me. And it was fucking freezing.
Ditto. Hit a bank between North & South Curly. Got a few at dawn to keep me going.
Should I go to desert point tomorrow? swell looks good as does the wind, kuta is boring!
Put your hair in a top knot , go to Potato Head and stare out at sea looking bored and distracted till a young Mid Western Seppo back packer comes up and remarks how much the ocean controls the moods of surfers. Tell her that you’re a slave to the rhythms of Mother Nature. She’ll tell you how she’s drawn to it’s ever changing complexity in a way that the prairie plains never did. Stare into her eyes and dribble emotive garbage into each other’s ears till the bar shuts and the ceased flow of cocktails signals its time to go home and roll the STD dice.
Unless you like getting pitted.
Then Yes, go to Deserts . Park up and surf everyday there’s waves till you’ve got your shit so dialed that those amazing days that eventuate will be burnt into your brain for the rest of your life.
Sun'3pm-Rally for Perth Wavepool in Park.(re: tbb link)
tbb traced his footprints in the sand today (Only E/W set on this beach <300m>)
So the surf was shit then! OhYeah! Shittest all year...I wouldn't go near the place.
GC "LL" Teepee Village (cadet set) [sold out] Junior Groms size still in stock!
Glass window teepees + free upgrades to topplin' Teepees with squalls version.
Bodybashers Fort comes with Royal Standard powwow Teepee (A bit worn out!)
Delivers Mid to either side of High...Rain dance empties Teepee village [P].
Join tbb for peace-pipe in powwow Teepee...Heap'um good brew to share around.
hahahaha Blowin, what if the chick turns out to be an 'F -B -I agent!'?
The froth is prominent.
Have a couple of "physio appointments" booked at 9am this morning...
Last year I surfed at the main break at cocos keeling island (a reasonable left). Check it out on google earth. Break is mostly uncrowded... Occasional locals very friendly....aside from one notorious local (older) grumpy bastard (just because he can I suppose). Heading there again shortly and of course will be taking a couple of boards. Look it's not really a surf destination...it's hard to get to, remote, only has a couple of breaks and is very very windy (offshore during the season)...but it gets similar swell to Indo and can be counted on to be breaking every day...so if you're headed there for kite surfing...be sure to bring your surfboard.
Me, I surfed locally today in little waves on my 9'6". Have had it and loved it for a long time, I should surf it more.
But this spun me out tonight:
Chart predicts a crazy big jump in swell from 9-13ft at 3am 2/10/19 to an improbable 75-120ft at 6am! The location is the western most of the Azores and Hurricane Lorenzo is not far off. The newsfeed at Windy is predicting 72ft for the Azores.
Faark the Irish boys be watching charts and be frothing.
Portugal is my favorite place for when I don't want to travel so far away from Europe.
Hey mate the it’s 2020 and the swellnet app is still shit just letting you know
Hey mate its 2020 and responsive web design is a thing. Why do you even need an app?
People think it’s a walk in the park being me.
“ Aw , Blowin” They’ll say “ You’ve got it so easy . Us locals have to spend years of our lives learning the conditions around here to score the best waves. You just rock into town on the day of the year , wait for the local legend to pick the wave of the day , fade him from the shoulder and make sure you and your great memories are gone from the car park before the boys finish surfing. Wish I could score waves like that !”
If only I had it so easy !
For a start - it’s way harder than you’d think to try and hold a straight face whilst trying to convincingly fib to some red faced inbred that you neither saw nor heard them as you faded them on the wave of their life.
And then there’s everything else involved when you try to score quality waves in an unfamiliar town as a blowin. Particularly a Blowin such as myself who hasn’t got the inclination to do the hard yards of searching and thinking for themselves to figure out the local set ups.
I find that seagulling is the best technique. Hang around the car parks and you can overhear some quality tips. Same goes for lurking around pubs during board rider’s piss ups , acting lost in the surf shop or even rooting the sister of a prominent local if things get desperate. And sometimes they get real desperate. Like the time I was in San Fransisco and the local hot rat only had a brother.....don’t think I’ll ever get that taste out of my mouth !
It pays though . And today it paid well.
A while back I’d moved into this town and the information pickings were slim. I was forced to infiltrate a men’s shed to try and gleam some local knowledge. Just as I was pretending to sand back a rocking horse behind one of the elder statesmen who still had a mean short board carve , he let slip to his mate that he’d scored a rare little high tide wedge on a small East swell with offshore winds at a place that I hadn’t even dreamed of considering surfable. It just took a bit of rain to form the bank off the side of a back beach break wall and Bob’s your uncle ....
And so that’s what I surfed today. Super hollow , heaving chest high wedge peaks. Predominantly a left. Brown water probably rife with bull sharks but fun enough on my own. A quick hour of power shooting some little curls.
It looked uncannily like the “ Beast “ mode at that Wave pool in dreary Melbourne. Only not , you know , pay to play.
Good times .
I never did finish that rocking horse *.
* Actually did just surf that peak. The rest of the story may vary in its factuality.
Amazing how predictable a fickle wave can be.
Amazing what a little rain can do.
And amazing how loose lipped some people are!
Txted old mate last night and organised for an early at an open stretch. "Sure mate but I've got a cough so I'll have to practice some 'social distancing'"
"No worries , I will meet you there."
Feeling kinda lucky because this place is not hidden but totally dependant on sand bank formation. The first time we ever surfed here about 5 years ago we were met by hundreds of dolphins. Today the winds were initailly light SW then went light west. It had a bit of morning sickness vibe but the odd 3 footer came through, and for 2 hours plus there were no more than 2 other surfers as far as I could see in both directions.We had a feast of good waves to ourselves.
But the absolute high light was the dolphins. Dolphins, dolphins everywhere! I'm not sure if its mating season but there lots of flapping and jumping and surfing waves. . For nearly the entire time. Fucking unreal
My mate let out a huge wooohoo as he reckons he saw a huge dolphin swim right under him, upside down and waving. I jokingly reminded old mate of the multiverse theory and how multiple lives are said to exist simultaneously and that was actually him, as a dolphin! The very next wave as I was screaming down the line I soon saw a dolphin on my wave heading towards me, so I had to straighten out and bottom turn around him to finish with a close out reo. Twas So good.
Which led to us asking an obvious question, If you are a dolphin what can you do daily?
All we could come up with was:
Swim, fish, root, and surf. (I think there might be a song in that)
What a life!
Good one WOL this time of the year with the salmon starting their run I think great white hugging season :-)
3 months to the day
Bummer, hopefully not long now. The ocean is going to feel electric!
Years ago surfing at Moreton Is., early morning a pod just hung around my mate and I sharing waves. I'll never forget sitting out the back when a big fella was cruising head out of the water bouncing a jelly-blubber off it's nose (snout?) like a trained seal. I swear it was showing off just for me, not even 5 metres away.
Second was padding out across lake Conjola to Green Island and a huge pod just cruising in and around us, so close, you could look them in the eye and almost touch them. This is just as the sun was going down, golden light, lago. Good waves too that sesh. Very special.
Wonderful creatures dolphins.
After recently misplacing my surfing mojo I found it while cycling, board under arm, early one morning at the southern end of a sub-tropical isle. A vision splendid led to a session even more splendider - new word! - but that's not the point of this story.
Having my mojo returned intact means every car trip, no matter how small or in whatever direction, must involve a quick flyby of the north end carpark. So it was while fetching milk and tonight's dinner from the IGA that I stopped in, saw it empty, which was no surprise as it was 2-3 ft with a 15knt NEer on it.
Still, nice day, so I sat on the hood and watched the surf, then heard a car pull in and old mate Nick yell out, "It's alright, hey?"
Being a polite prick I grunted in the affirmative despite thinking the negative.
It mustn't have been convincing cos he came over, lightly springing on his heels, and launched into a theory of why these conditions are good and how they can be worked for benefit. We've got a bit of south swell coming this week, my surf fitness is sub-par so I was ready to be convinced.
And I was. Five minutes later we were both out there.
The nor'easter had been strong, but it was backing off so the chop was no longer random chaos, it was a bit more ordered, cutting at an obtuse angle to the dominant south lines. The strategy was to, not only line up the south sets, but look for the point where the south lines intersected with the lesser nor'east vectors.
No point staring square at the horizon; cock-eyed scanning to the north-east was the order of the day to see if the NE chop would arrive when a south swell hit, and if so paddle fast, paddle at an angle, to fall into one sucky section which opened into a closeout section as the next line of nor'east chop shut the wave down.
Two turns, on waves twenty metres long at best, but I must've bagged thirty of them.
"After recently misplacing my surfing mojo I found it..." loved this!
it's good to rack 'em up like that Stu.
my son's been frothing and isn't quite old enough to be let loose unattended, likes riding spots his peers find a bit sketchy so I've been racking up 2 go outs a day most days this summer.
it's a nice feeling to be surf fit, to start one session as a run on from the last one.
Reminds me of the Rodney Rude joke about the baby boy born with no eyelids. The Doctor, a frustrated plastic surgeon, sees the Mother in distress and thinking on his feet comes up with a solution - “ No a problem . We’ll speed up the schedule for the circumcision and use the left over foreskin for his eyelids .”
“ You can’t do that “ the mother screams aghast “ He’ll be cock- eyed !”
Which board did you ride , Stu ?
Good one Blowin, Rodney Rude blast from the past "You know what I hate?"
Basalt assym under my feet. Took it to LHI cos it's the worse for wear and I thought it might get belted when stowed in the tiny Dash 8 hold, then it went and repayed me by revealing a new side to its personality.
Don't sell old boards, people.
I'm so ashamed. I've blown off the surf two days in a row despite being an ok wave around.
It's just so hard, both today and yesterday grey and breezy, the occasional snow flurry, temps haven't gotten over 4℃ and the windchill is below zero.
I wish I could get my mojo back but truth be told, haven't really been looking too hard for it.
Stu - 5'11 Paterson ?
That's the one.
What about dinner and the milk Stu, were you in the shit?
All good, GF. Little late but the shopping list was checked off and dinner served in the evening twilight.
Black bean burritos if you're wondering...
Wow, how good is my comprehension going, didn't even notice the milk/dinner. Just visualising those quick, rampy entries.
One track mind Craig?
Surfed the river wave in Montreal -22 degrees celcius....Coldest ive ever surfed
Got anymore details ?
Sounds intriguing in an unpleasant and very shit but bucket list kind of way.
Montreal river surfing that is.
Got up at the crack of dawn expecting at least head high and hopefully overhead , dam it’s lucky to be waist high at best , maybe swell will hit this arvo ?
How to you put a pic up (scuse my technological ineptness) and I'll try and find a good one of my local pumping? https://get-vidmate.com https://instasave.onl
https://imgur.com/ upload then copy paste the img link
Bit of colour compensation in the world today. After five days of gray, this morning felt like a release from solitary confinement in the hole to walk the yard at midday. The yellows and greens were saturated, whites overblown, and the blue of the sky was almost too much to bear.
The surf didn't quite match the colour palette...not at first anyway. High tide and a fresh offshore on a short range swell meant that despite the clean surface the energy was still wobbling this way and that.
Heard good reports of a beach to the south but I bided my time, worked a while, waited for the tide to drop, then hit it around late morning. If anything I waited too long; what was full was now tending towards close outs. But there were shoulders if you hunted them, and the sky was clear and crisp.