A Realsurf staple-( sorry Priddes for the plagarism)
No surf today but off to Vicco tomorrow for the weekend so heres hoping!
Too true, mate.
Almost overwhelming the colour saturation and clarity of the light. Noticeably enough up here was that, despite the heat and humidity, it seems we went into the floods in the last gasp of summer and came out the other side fully transitioned into autumn.
Gone completely is any remnant of a washed out summer sky, replaced whole by the deep azure of the surfer’s season.
Ocean looks like it contains every shade of brown in the spectrum.
Its 1ft today here but yesterday i surfed a couple out the point then went into this section with only one out..half an hour wait for a couple of drain pipes.
What an afternoon, reckon you summed it up pretty well Blowin - that clarity of light and the west in the wind kind of adds a superreal aspect.
Surprisingly clear water at spots up here, I think with that touch of north in the swell it causes the bulk of the river runoff to eddy out to sea off the back of a rock shelf a bit to the south.
So cleanish water and fun, offshore, overhead waves today.
Nice tube gs
Slotted mate, good one
Nice barrel GS!
Man, first proper autumn day of.. autumn.
This morning a little morning sick, too much water moving and nothing amazing across the local area, but the offshore kicked in and groomed the slowly easing swell. From late morning it was a totally different story. I wanted to surf my bigger boards but Manly looked kinda slow, closey on the best ones and all in all not great.
Got a hot tip about an uncrowded left rip bowl and hit there instead. Wave machine lefts with less than 5, lapping wave after wave after wave.
Finished work around 5:30 and then headed out to scope a few options for the late. Reefs not great, and the best beachy banks busy. Thought outside the square and found a fairly unattended rip-bowl bank, this one focussing the long lines into a beautiful wedgey take-off as the swell felt a big gutter off the right, turning it into a slopey, long running left.
The best ones, 4-5 turns to the beach and even a bonus inside right a times. Pastel skies, moon sitting 1/3rd in the sky and the most beautiful autumn glow. After dusk it went full mauve as well, very similar to the evenings last autumn when we were deep in lockdown.
right on Craig!
Yesterday was really fun head high, clean and a nice groomed swell hitting a rare really nice bank.
Today the wind was crosshore and swell had some lump in it, but i still couldn't help going back to yesterdays bank, expecting it to be good almost not accepting the reality of todays conditions.
Noway im telling where I surfed today but all I can say it was like Porto 6-8ft
nut case spitting grinding barrels. Insane day of surfing.
God days like today suck, perfect day sunny and light wind, nice sized swell, perfect conditions in theory, but for some reason the waves just are not doing it, you look on low tide, think maybe latter with a bit more water and it's just as bad, you drive around checking every bank and then end up back where you started, so you think fk it, i will just paddle out ive got to get wet, and then you have the worst surf.
Probably better surf where you surfed than where i checked...6 out one grom lid snaking everyone one local getting his share but just crap waves in general...and forecast looked good.couldnt sleep last night from frothing to get wet ended up drinking four extra strong coffees and talking to tourists and locals who probably thought i was on goey.lol.
Sucks when the forecast looks good or conditions on paper look good, but for some reason the waves aren't doing it.
Yeah. Bummer. This is where East Coast beachies hit their prime. Banks after all the rain and swell are insanely fun in some places on the beaches. There's one me and my mates have named Trestles. Yep and can be surfed on a fishy short board down to 1-2ft it's that good a shape. Another today was more so a wedgey right that throws a punchy wall down the line for 2-3 nice carves or a coupla taps then into the shorey right on the sand. Water has warmed up nicely from about 17 last week to 22-23.
I'm always an expectation guy now. On the best looking days on paper set it low as they seem to not be the pick and the days before and after you have way more fun with less people. All expectations. The one that gets you though is when you see and paddle out into epic surf but for some reason you have a shocker and are never in the spot for the good ones.
Well well well I thought my local was like 1-2ft and mush got stuck watching the best surfers in the world riding the worse waves in the world (shameful WSL ) had enough
checked it at 1130 pumping glassy 3ft plus waves good ripplable uncrowded bank had a great 3hour session. Lucked in.
That tidal variation was huge yesterday
Farrrrk how good was northern nsw today ? Been working all week and this morning , finished 9am and headed to a favorite , 8 guys out , got 10 waves averaging 150 meters per ride , overhead bombs , managed to jag 4 , 2 barrels, very happy man . Beautiful swell.
Nice one Supa, it’s been a good week.
Yes Andy M , I’ve been watching on surf cams during breaks at work and today when I first paddled out there were 20 odd guys and 15 minutes later 8 , timed it well with tide dropping, I think the crowd was surfed out as it was pretty consistent, great vibe in the water.
Yeah if you watch and wait you can be pleasantly surprised.
I'm wondering if you surfed my local - was there an older guy taking off on the set waves on his knees on a wood-veneer board?
Nah not me mate , can still pop up , just not as quick these days lol go the old blokes though. I saw a old fella I’m guessing 70+ out at greenmount a few weeks ago , he had a pretty long thick board ( not a mal ) and was getting some good set waves that were wide of everyone else . I always like to watch the really old fellas as l find them inspirational and hopefully I’m still out there at their age.
Sorry Andy just read your post again and thought you were referring to me as the old guy on his knees lol
I would never be so rude!
There's a fella who surfs The Point and he's mid 70's, rides a 6'3" or close to.
Full legend and still gets his waves.