Localism

A short vignette about localism from the holidays:

A few days after Christmas, twenty guys out, three of whom are locals and the rest I'd never laid eyes on. It was small and inconsistent but when they came through surprisingly good shape - just real hard to split one from the pack.

Paddling back out I saw a guy who surfs the wave more than anyone I know commit a blatant drop in and continue along the wave. When he was paddling back out the victim approached him and said a few words. I was curious to hear the exchange 'cos the offender is a mellow guy and I'd never seen him do it before. How would he respond?

His retort, delivered in a concilliatory tone, was, "Yeah I know I was in the wrong, but I surf here all the time and I can't get a single wave."

Which I figured was brilliant. It was localism, but it wasn't heavy, just a matter-of-fact explanation that no sensible surfer could begrudge.

fair call,
I was surfing bells weekend before last , nice clean 4ft , fairly slow swell. Sitting wide of rincon just stayin away from the peak hoping to snavle a couple wide ones. Waited 40 minutes before my opportunity came, got blatently burned by some gent in his 50's. Ok fair enough im a blowin, its xmas im not going to let it ruin my surf, waited out the back for another 40 minutes, take off, and burned again by some other gent in his 50's.
Well after a near three hour surf and three waves caught three waves burnt I was left pondering the strategy I employed at a beach nowhere near my own turf.
Pack of cunts I thought, here i was trying to be well behaved and just got burnt every time.
Ill tell you what it made me think.
When Im back home in few weeks and surfing my local, should I be a complete cunt to travelling surfers who do show respect to locals. Because i am a cunt to ones who dont.
deep down i wanted to say yes fuckem all. But then remembered my time in a certain location in Vicco where I was welcomed by locals and called into waves and this spot dosnt break very often at all. So any travelling oz surfer who happens to come across my local be rest assured , if you show respect it will be acknowledged accordingly.

Inzider, chances are they didn't live there either, but probably thought you were easy pickings as you were sitting wide. if it's any consolation last time I surfed winki about 7 years ago I had 3 wave and got burned by 6 people. 1 on the first, 2 on the second and 3 on the third , I went in as it was getting a bit dangerous. :-)

Sitting wide on rincon kinda meant i was sitting deep for the bowl, sort of no mans land,
No excuse for the burns, they were just blatent carnts.
I surfed winki on sunday morning, was about 60 people squabling over pretty average 3-4ft fat shit winki, being a bit of west in the swell there was some wide ones which i picked off a couple, just reinforced how lucky we are in NZ for crowds.

Hey where did the story about greenbush in the off season go?
When I looked on here this morning it was getting a bit testy in the comments

..."His retort, delivered in a concilliatory tone, was, "Yeah I know I was in the wrong, but I surf here all the time and I can't get a single wave."
Which I figured was brilliant. It was localism, but it wasn't heavy, just a matter-of-fact explanation that no sensible surfer could begrudge."...

Agreed Stu but we assume that surfers these days are sensible.
Had a fun little peak at our local on New Year's Day with just five of us out...all locals and funnily enough all of us were Dads with young kids and wives on the beach. We were having a blast, sharing waves, talking shit and relishing the uncrowded moment. Then out paddles imbecile blow in Dad with two groms, one 12ish year old who surfed pretty good and a younger more beginner other son. Dad and young son sit right smack bang in the middle of us on the peak and the older son starts darting around like a ferret snaking and hassling grown local men. We all just looked at each other in pure disbelief. After about 5 mins we'd had enough and the next set I burned the grom as we had all decided to do. Paddling back out the old man looks at me and begins to start and my mate who's a born and bred local just cuts him off and says..."You're talking to the wrong person mate...go talk to your boy about respect and how to earn it and you should be setting a better example by not bringing them into the middle of a peak when you're on holiday. Learn some manners."
Again it was localism without aggression but these things never even used to be needed to be said.

Inzider , bells is a national surfing reserve . That means you ARE a local .
Tell those drop in carnts to piss off.

I've got to agree with Crg.....I'm constantly gobsmacked by the people who flock here from the city on holidays who just show zero respect, consideration or basic courtesy to the people who live in the areas they are visiting.

The attitude of entitlement - this is my holiday, my time to unwind, my time to get my wave count up- shows total contempt.

Then they wonder why they get bad vibes or worse.

I usually just bury myself in a hole for this month and come out when they are gone. Don't need the aggravation.
This year I've been going down to the flags and having a bodybash like every other schmuck and loving it.

In my honest assessment after travelling the world and seeing locals in many parts I put the "problem" of localism 80-90% to visiting surfers who have no idea how to show basic respect and 10-20% at a few hothead fcukheads who are easily avoided.

Seen many different versions of what @crg described over the years and now I just do what @freeride does for this month, swim or ride my bike. Agree that most localism issue stem from visitors showing no respect. Its an never ending story.

We bodysurfers always welcome new recruits to the stoked whompers club. No locals, only stoker's.

The main break at the town I live has been overrun. Never seen it so crowded. But I've been finding uncrowded to empty fun lineups elsewhere, sometimes very nearby. So I don't think you need to give up surfing for the Christmas to Oz Day period.
I'm a blowin myself FWIW.

I heard a good one the other day regarding my town.

You're not a true local until you've been married and divorced here.

Gender neutral too!

I took a an Irish mate out surfing a mellow reef near Torquay - he’d just reached the intermediate level. I just told him to be patient, once the set waves go by, I’ll call him into the right wave. This old codger, 45 plus, body like Clive Palmer was going for the wave - but he was too far on the inside. My mate gets up, does a bottom turn but missed the section - meanwhile old mate was stuck on this inside.

A few minutes pass, and ego shattered, old mate takes aim at the polite Irish man. He goes on and one, and my Irish mate was in shock, apologising profoundly - when he had done nothing wrong. 5 minutes later old mate Clive starts again, “to go to the beachie, f this and f that”.

I chime in. “Righto mate, you’ve had your fun, shut up, and stop ruining everyone’s surf”, set comes, off I go.

Old mate continues to whinge like a POM after loosing the ashes.

My patience was worn thin at this stage, and I aggressively interject for the first time and last time, “I’d hate to be your wife, you whinge and whinge, you must be a real Cbomb of a husband. Surely you aren’t married?”.

A few minutes pass and old mate paddles in with his tail between his legs and lips quivering.

Down at Torquay to win the battle of brawn versus brain, hit them we’re it hurts.

Unfortunate to have to do those things... Don’t ruin my zen, sunrise, feeling of freedom from or anyone else’s for that matter. Always make sure your response is proportional to the initial attack, so the ledger is square at the end of the day.

I tried Triggs a few times, no one hassled me but it was so packed it was a waste of time, I have seen bit of the localism, so I tend to be around Brighton, Scarbs in summer and Leighton in winter, no drama there, sometimes I go to south Triggs, had a few dicks drop in but I ignore them, maybe because eI am on the old and grey side they don't bother.

I think this one belongs here.
Great vid, incredible waves and highlights the challenges of letting the cat out of the bag and how to deal with it.
Seems the Moroccan locals have a good perspective.

I may have engaged in a bit of minor surf rage today. Burnt a few lid riders today who continually padded up the inside. Had a chat in the car park……got called a cunt. So gently educated the young man that he could easily be physically overpowered ( bit of a scrapper still at 50).
What I find odd is how many people let this sort of thing slide. The more one or two guys did it the more it encouraged a few others to do the same thing.
The guy who speaks up usually does himself a disservice at the same time (that was me). Known as the angry guy.
Bit of an issue, I’ve had not being able to contain my thoughts once enraged. You’ve sort of done something that once upon a time was not so abnormal. And it does play on your mind after ( now for me).
It’s a tough one because people won’t say anything, until they get out of the water and never to the perpetrator. Yet the guy who does usually regrets not just letting it go. That’s me. Albany is a big town, but it’s also small.

soggydog wrote:

I may have engaged in a bit of minor surf rage today. Burnt a few lid riders today who continually padded up the inside. Had a chat in the car park……got called a cunt. So gently educated the young man that he could easily be physically overpowered ( bit of a scrapper still at 50).
What I find odd is how many people let this sort of thing slide. The more one or two guys did it the more it encouraged a few others to do the same thing.
The guy who speaks up usually does himself a disservice at the same time (that was me). Known as the angry guy.
Bit of an issue, I’ve had not being able to contain my thoughts once enraged. You’ve sort of done something that once upon a time was not so abnormal. And it does play on your mind after ( now for me).
It’s a tough one because people won’t say anything, until they get out of the water and never to the perpetrator. Yet the guy who does usually regrets not just letting it go. That’s me. Albany is a big town, but it’s also small.

I know how you feel Soggydog , it’s a total disregard for respect in the lineup and they wouldn’t do it on land in other situations so why do they feel so entitled at a surf break ? I’ve met you in Rote last year and you came across to me as a gentle giant . I’ve been known to paddle around people that are sitting way out of position and don’t know the lineup but I will still let them have the next wave that comes through . Growing up at Kirra in the late 70s early 80s , there was a pecking order and as you got older you earned your place . Very different today. If someone paddles up my inside and it’s my turn, I just look straight at them and tell them I’m going , 9 times out of 10 they pull back and the 1 that doesn’t gets burnt. These plebs usually hassle when it’s 3ft and on the solid days are sitting down the line trying to take off on the shoulder. Had a guy the other day jump off the boat dropped in on me after I had been waiting nearly 30 minutes, he actually looked at me first and saw me do 2 pumps then he fell off nearly landing on me as he blatantly dropped in . When I gave him a spray he said “ sorry mate I didn’t see you “ even though he had looked straight at me . My anger level went straight to rage and he copped a big mouthful of abuse . Then I end up feeling like the bad guy for losing it .

soggydog wrote:

I may have engaged in a bit of minor surf rage today. Burnt a few lid riders today who continually padded up the inside. Had a chat in the car park……got called a cunt. So gently educated the young man that he could easily be physically overpowered ( bit of a scrapper still at 50).
What I find odd is how many people let this sort of thing slide. The more one or two guys did it the more it encouraged a few others to do the same thing.
The guy who speaks up usually does himself a disservice at the same time (that was me). Known as the angry guy.
Bit of an issue, I’ve had not being able to contain my thoughts once enraged. You’ve sort of done something that once upon a time was not so abnormal. And it does play on your mind after ( now for me).
It’s a tough one because people won’t say anything, until they get out of the water and never to the perpetrator. Yet the guy who does usually regrets not just letting it go. That’s me. Albany is a big town, but it’s also small.

Soggydog. Hi mate. Annoying, those who don’t know or ignore the etiquette.

Is this new artificial reef going to spawn more of what you’ve just experienced?
I hope not. AW

I know what you mean Supa, you get it off your chest. But ist it worth it for your own head noise.
Yesterday it was at the new reef. It was sick fun. But it gets crowded and the take off spot is pretty tight. A few of the older lid riders just take the piss which has now lead to the younger guys following suit.
What also sucks is I’ve sat on the board riders committee and been part of the advocacy groups for a number of years to have a club body to help legitimise the project. That shouldn’t give a sense of entitlement. But when you’re getting back paddled by a twenty something year old who you’ve never seen before, well my head can go dark on me.

And I suppose that’s what I’m reconciling with. Is it worth the head noise?

Hope you’re well and scoring mate. Will be over late Sept. early Oct. with the grom. Not sure where yet.

I think it’s going to have its moments AW. The afternoon session was the complete opposite. Chats, calling waves, for others and ourselves.
Hope you’re well and scoring too AW

soggydog wrote:

I think it’s going to have its moments AW. The afternoon session was the complete opposite. Chats, calling waves, for others and ourselves.
Hope you’re well and scoring too AW

Soggydog. Hi pal.

I share Freeride76 sentiments, give a wave to get a wave, I’m chatty in the surf, talk to everyone, friendly vibe with the hope it’s reciprocal, but we know deep down it’s just a clandestine/deceptive way of trying to get another wave or be gifted one . Go well fella, our paths will cross one day.

Edit. You know, somedays , I just wonder why other surfers just can’t be happy for the up and riding individual, it’s a hoot watching another surfer kick arse, great paddling past and saying fuck yeah that was a good wave mate, I know for sure it’s spreads a good vibe. AW

Hoots chats calling someone in “you go”, “ it’s your turn” calling that guy in down the line because you can’t quite scratch in. Recognising who’s had a few and who needs one. All very important parts of surfing that I grew up with.

Been on a few surf charters to the Maldives. The guide we had, Brian James who also runs Cokes surf camp, would start the trip brief with “ Give a wave away a day.” . I’ve repeated it a few times myself. Very good Mantra. Especially on a surf trip.

Loading up to go and have another look.
Hopefully the lid kids will be at work.

soggydog wrote:

Hoots chats calling someone in “you go”, “ it’s your turn” calling that guy in down the line because you can’t quite scratch in. Recognising who’s had a few and who needs one. All very important parts of surfing that I grew up with.

Been on a few surf charters to the Maldives. The guide we had, Brian James who also runs Cokes surf camp, would start the trip brief with “ Give a wave away a day.” . I’ve repeated it a few times myself. Very good Mantra. Especially on a surf trip.

Loading up to go and have another look.
Hopefully the lid kids will be at work.

Soggydog. ‘Keep a lid on it mate’. AW

AlfredWallace wrote:

soggydog wrote:

I think it’s going to have its moments AW. The afternoon session was the complete opposite. Chats, calling waves, for others and ourselves.
Hope you’re well and scoring too AW

Soggydog. Hi pal.

I share Freeride76 sentiments, give a wave to get a wave, I’m chatty in the surf, talk to everyone, friendly vibe with the hope it’s reciprocal, but we know deep down it’s just a clandestine/deceptive way of trying to get another wave or be gifted one . Go well fella, our paths will cross one day.

Edit. You know, somedays , I just wonder why other surfers just can’t be happy for the up and riding individual, it’s a hoot watching another surfer kick arse, great paddling past and saying fuck yeah that was a good wave mate, I know for sure it’s spreads a good vibe. AW

Agreed. The only time I am unhappy about it is when I've seen that person on a dozen waves already while 50 others have had none, and despite their huge glut of waves they've still got an attitude about themselves. Point waves are full of them.

soggydog wrote:

Hoots chats calling someone in “you go”, “ it’s your turn” calling that guy in down the line because you can’t quite scratch in. Recognising who’s had a few and who needs one. All very important parts of surfing that I grew up with.

Been on a few surf charters to the Maldives. The guide we had, Brian James who also runs Cokes surf camp, would start the trip brief with “ Give a wave away a day.” . I’ve repeated it a few times myself. Very good Mantra. Especially on a surf trip.

Loading up to go and have another look.
Hopefully the lid kids will be at work.

Great post, especially that first paragraph.

^ yep spot on soggydog

Always helps to smile and say hello quietly when u land in the line up too…
- never get ppl who plonk close by and just look down or pretend there is something over yonder to avoid eye contact, silence is fine - just a lil nod can go a long way - no harm in being pleasant or friendly.

^100%.

soggydog wrote:

I may have engaged in a bit of minor surf rage today. Burnt a few lid riders today who continually padded up the inside. Had a chat in the car park……got called a cunt. So gently educated the young man that he could easily be physically overpowered ( bit of a scrapper still at 50).
What I find odd is how many people let this sort of thing slide. The more one or two guys did it the more it encouraged a few others to do the same thing.
The guy who speaks up usually does himself a disservice at the same time (that was me). Known as the angry guy.
Bit of an issue, I’ve had not being able to contain my thoughts once enraged. You’ve sort of done something that once upon a time was not so abnormal. And it does play on your mind after ( now for me).
It’s a tough one because people won’t say anything, until they get out of the water and never to the perpetrator. Yet the guy who does usually regrets not just letting it go. That’s me. Albany is a big town, but it’s also small.

Where I live is, historically at least, one of the most violent and localised pointbreaks in Australia, possibly the world. To some degree it still rides on that reputation even though it's a rare day that violence spills over.

Instead of falling back on old ways, there are one or two older crew that have great methods for dealing with surfers who continually paddle up the inside. One fella will gently compliment the offender, "Hey you're surfing really well, mate," before offering a rejoinder to his own statement, "but these guys have been sitting here waiting a while."

The key is no passive aggression and no sarcasm, so there's nothing to buck back against, and the offender is left with their own, now visible, misdemeanours.

Once out in the open, few people are willing to keep pushing the boundaries.

I like it.

Then there's the implied threat that sows the seeds of doubt.

stunet wrote:

soggydog wrote:

I may have engaged in a bit of minor surf rage today. Burnt a few lid riders today who continually padded up the inside. Had a chat in the car park……got called a cunt. So gently educated the young man that he could easily be physically overpowered ( bit of a scrapper still at 50).
What I find odd is how many people let this sort of thing slide. The more one or two guys did it the more it encouraged a few others to do the same thing.
The guy who speaks up usually does himself a disservice at the same time (that was me). Known as the angry guy.
Bit of an issue, I’ve had not being able to contain my thoughts once enraged. You’ve sort of done something that once upon a time was not so abnormal. And it does play on your mind after ( now for me).
It’s a tough one because people won’t say anything, until they get out of the water and never to the perpetrator. Yet the guy who does usually regrets not just letting it go. That’s me. Albany is a big town, but it’s also small.

Where I live is, historically at least, one of the most violent and localised pointbreaks in Australia, possibly the world. To some degree it still rides on that reputation even though it's a rare day that violence spills over.

Instead of falling back on old ways, there are one or two older crew that have great methods for dealing with surfers who continually paddle up the inside. One fella will gently compliment the offender, "Hey you're surfing really well, mate," before offering a rejoinder to his own statement, "but these guys have been sitting here waiting a while."

The key is no passive aggression and no sarcasm, so there's nothing to buck back against, and the offender is left with their own, now visible, misdemeanours.

Once out in the open, few people are willing to keep pushing the boundaries.

Noice....

I know this bloke! Big mouth too.

dandandan wrote:

AlfredWallace wrote:

soggydog wrote:

I think it’s going to have its moments AW. The afternoon session was the complete opposite. Chats, calling waves, for others and ourselves.
Hope you’re well and scoring too AW

Soggydog. Hi pal.

I share Freeride76 sentiments, give a wave to get a wave, I’m chatty in the surf, talk to everyone, friendly vibe with the hope it’s reciprocal, but we know deep down it’s just a clandestine/deceptive way of trying to get another wave or be gifted one . Go well fella, our paths will cross one day.

Edit. You know, somedays , I just wonder why other surfers just can’t be happy for the up and riding individual, it’s a hoot watching another surfer kick arse, great paddling past and saying fuck yeah that was a good wave mate, I know for sure it’s spreads a good vibe. AW

Agreed. The only time I am unhappy about it is when I've seen that person on a dozen waves already while 50 others have had none, and despite their huge glut of waves they've still got an attitude about themselves. Point waves are full of them.

stunet wrote:

soggydog wrote:

I may have engaged in a bit of minor surf rage today. Burnt a few lid riders today who continually padded up the inside. Had a chat in the car park……got called a cunt. So gently educated the young man that he could easily be physically overpowered ( bit of a scrapper still at 50).
What I find odd is how many people let this sort of thing slide. The more one or two guys did it the more it encouraged a few others to do the same thing.
The guy who speaks up usually does himself a disservice at the same time (that was me). Known as the angry guy.
Bit of an issue, I’ve had not being able to contain my thoughts once enraged. You’ve sort of done something that once upon a time was not so abnormal. And it does play on your mind after ( now for me).
It’s a tough one because people won’t say anything, until they get out of the water and never to the perpetrator. Yet the guy who does usually regrets not just letting it go. That’s me. Albany is a big town, but it’s also small.

Where I live is, historically at least, one of the most violent and localised pointbreaks in Australia, possibly the world. To some degree it still rides on that reputation even though it's a rare day that violence spills over.

Instead of falling back on old ways, there are one or two older crew that have great methods for dealing with surfers who continually paddle up the inside. One fella will gently compliment the offender, "Hey you're surfing really well, mate," before offering a rejoinder to his own statement, "but these guys have been sitting here waiting a while."

The key is no passive aggression and no sarcasm, so there's nothing to buck back against, and the offender is left with their own, now visible, misdemeanours.

Once out in the open, few people are willing to keep pushing the boundaries.

Any plans for a webcam at the Point?