Large, long period swell inbound for the weekend

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

Western Australia Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 25th October)

Best Days: Sat: smaller early, getting bigger into the afternoon as a very long period swell builds across the region. A'noon peak will coincide with the sea breeze but there'll be waves at sheltered spots and metro coasts. Sun: very large long period swell, great across the metro beaches with early offshores, and quite sizeable (again!) in Margs with light winds before lunch. Wed PM onwards: plenty of swell, though bumpy in Margs. Thurs and Sat looking to see windows of OK winds across metro beaches. 

Recap: Thursday’s very large swell (12-15ft exposed breaks around Margs) went largely to waste at exposed beaches thanks to an onshore airstream. Though, protected spots were much cleaner and provided really good surf through the day. Similar conditions were reported across metro beaches, with much smaller surf (3-4ft in Perth and 4-5ft in Mandurah). Size eased a little across metro beaches into this morning, with clean conditions under a light offshore breeze. Wave heights eased more significantly across the Margaret River region (about 8ft+ exposed spots) and winds eased back through remained SW. 

This weekend (Oct 26 - 27)

The publish time of these Forecaster Notes will be erratic this week, as Craig’s on annual leave. To receive an email when they go live, please edit your user settings here: www.swellnet.com/user

The leading edge of an incredible long period swell is due to reach the WA coast early Saturday morning. Peak swell periods could be as high as 23-24+ seconds, but the bulk of the swell will be located quite some time behind - likely to peak on Sunday.

Nevertheless, we’ll see an upwards trend during the day, more prominently into the afternoon, and by Sunday we should be seeing solid 10-12ft+ sets across exposed spots around Margaret River. Perth beaches should peak around 3-4ft+ and it’ll be larger near 4-5ft+ across the Mandurah coast. Though, set waves will be extremely inconsistent owing to the large travel times. 

Very large swell periods will also exaggerate wave heights at offshore bombies (down south) where we’ll see some really big surf early Sunday morning.

Conditions look generally very good both mornings with light cross-offshore winds out of the SE on Saturday. A weak ridge off the metro coast this evening will maintain moderate southerlies and this may ruffle surface conditions into the start of the weekend but we’ll see an improvement as Saturday morning wears on. Though, afternoon sea breezes will blow out exposed spots, so Sunday morning will offer the best waves with light offshore winds and a peak in swell (afternoon sea breezes are again likely). 

The coastal ridge will have less of an effect across the lower SW so the Margs region should see clean conditions both mornings ahead of the sea breeze.

Next week (Oct 28 onwards)

A moderate front is expected to clip the coast on Monday, freshening SW winds across most coasts. There's a chance for a period of lighter, more variable winds early morning but this will probably be confined to metro coasts. 

Sunday’s large long period swell will be steadily easing but exposed locations down south should still be pushing 8-10ft early, easing to 6-8ft into the afternoon. Metro beaches should maintain 3ft+ waves in Perth early Monday and 3-4ft+ in Mandurah ahead of the easing trend. 

Easing size will continue into Tuesday with lighter E’ly winds and sea breezes around Margs, and moderate S/SE breeze across metro coasts ahead of the sea breeze in all areas.

However, the rest of the outlook looks really interesting with a slow moving, amplifying node of the long wave trough expected to generate back-to-back fronts between Heard Island and the mainland for quite a few days, delivering another extended round of strong groundswell for the state. 

These swell each won’t be quite as big as any of our previous events, but current indications are that we’ll see building size through Wednesday (probably the afternoon) and Thursday, peaking Friday, before easing slowly Saturday. The first swell (due late Wednesday) will probably provide a strong initial kick in size (8-10ft Margs) before temporarily easing into Thursday morning, but then rebuilding into the afternoon and Friday as secondary swells start to filter into the coast. 

It also looks like the associated fronts will track pretty close to the coast too, so conditions won’t be great and you’ll need to look for some shelter. But with sets holding 8-10ft across the Margs region, there’ll be no shortage of options.

The good news is that this frontal progression will have a much less effect (wind wise) on locations north from Bunbury, so although we’ll probably see one day of onshores here - and sea breezes most afternoons - there’s a healthy opportunity for a couple of days of fun waves across metro beaches later next week.

Have a great weekend!

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 26 Oct 2019 at 11:24am

Still waiting patiently for the leading edge to show across the buoys. Refreshing the Cape Nat page every so often is tedious.

Nice waves on offer for now though.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 26 Oct 2019 at 6:57pm

3:30pm at the Naturaliste buoy didn’t look very inspiring by the usual graphs, with swell periods jumped to 13 seconds (note swell direction gone straight W’ly)..

But the periods had jumped to 22 seconds by the peak period chart at the top.

Couple of sets showing too.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 26 Oct 2019 at 8:13pm

Building rapidly!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 7:42am

Still another 20-30 mins until the sun comes up, and buoy data suggests it's gonna be really, really big. Peak swell periods still at 20 seconds, 'swell' height of 3.6m. Even the 'Mean Period' blah blah is almost 17 seconds, haven't seen it that high before. And winds are 15-18kt offshore! Could be a little too strong for offshore reefs or other spots with a decent body of water upstream.


 

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 8:16am

Well, it's not small.




thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 8:25am

Christ, it's big.




thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 8:34am

Anyone wanna split the peak? It's a little fast....

And here's a set wave sequence from the bombie.




thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 8:36am

Oh this is nuts.


​​​​​​​

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 8:50am

No one out at Margs?

Jamyardy's picture
Jamyardy's picture
Jamyardy Wednesday, 30 Oct 2019 at 1:31am

GF, I checked Margs before and after hitting Bombie, 20 odd guys out.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 9:08am

jeezus thats thumping...late season indo run anyone

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 9:19am

We've got a few Travellers over there right now. Butts clenching, I imagine.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 9:29am

Ulu has some size atm with more to come.

edit : outside corner is massive at the moment

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 9:39am

where you watching that Udo?

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 9:42am

Msw and bali belly cams...

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 9:43am

Thanks

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 9:46am

Its pretty solid eh! Clean as too
No body surfing that i can see

Remigogo's picture
Remigogo's picture
Remigogo Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 9:28am

Some lucky soul surfer just got a major pit.

Looks epic.

Remigogo's picture
Remigogo's picture
Remigogo Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 9:29am

Yallingup surf cam.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 11:15am

Could be some tow ins happening we have a ski in the Ulu lineup now goofy
Nearly high tide now ...low water will be interesting..
edit ; 2or 3 paddle surfers having a go at the end of the wave

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 11:25am

Epic waves today. Check the bloke drawing a line at the bombie (and the guy riding at Yalls too).







thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 11:26am

Carnage in one set at Yallingup!


Freddy Sunshine's picture
Freddy Sunshine's picture
Freddy Sunshine Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 5:57pm

Any chance you could show the synoptic for the system that produced this swell? Never seen the max period off the charts!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 5:08pm


AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 5:33pm

Anyone want to put a size on Margs?

15-18+?

Looks bloody huge.

Freddy Sunshine's picture
Freddy Sunshine's picture
Freddy Sunshine Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 5:59pm

Cheers!

Freddy Sunshine's picture
Freddy Sunshine's picture
Freddy Sunshine Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 6:06pm

There isn't anything standing out as to why the period was so high other than the isobars being really close on the NNE edge...

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 6:09pm

Strength of core winds. 

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 6:16pm

Still pumping! One bloke out. All of the frames below happened in the space of one minute.








Remigogo's picture
Remigogo's picture
Remigogo Sunday, 27 Oct 2019 at 6:24pm

Epic day.

Heaving sets