Yet another active period for the Southern Ocean

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

Victorian Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 15th September)

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Generally average surf Sat, though possible late options on the Surf Coast
  • Fun day of waves on the Surf Coast on Sunday
  • Waves all next week in Torquay; light winds Mon then W'lies until the weekend
  • Mon the only worthwhile day east of Melbourne (exposed); winds will spoil conditions otherwise
  • Chance for a few small days in Western Port; Sun, then Wed/Thurs

Recap

Tiny residual held out around the 1ft mark in Torquay on Thursday, bumping up to 1-2ft this morning with the arrival of a distant W/SW swell, with clean conditions under mainly W/NW winds. East of Melbourne eased to a slow 2-3ft Thursday but has built back up to 3-4ft today with the new swell. Thursday was clean with favourable winds but today has renewed bumpy conditions. 

Fun Peninsula shories on Thursday

This weekend (Sep 16 - 17)

We've had another further uptick in size potential for the weekend, though I am trying to keep my expectations in check due to the dominant westerly swell direction.

That being said, core wind speeds around an embedded low contained with a mobile frontal conveyer belt below the continent are looking very good, upwards of 50kts. Add in the fact that its working on an active sea state (generated by the front prior), and I'm prepared to let some of my directional concerns slip past the goalkeeper.  

But, we're getting ahead of ourselves.

Saturday will start small - much like today - with a building trend through the day as the first of the westerly swell series rolls through Bass Strait. Fresh NW tending W'ly winds will create poor conditions at most spots except for the Surf Coast, we should see some 2-3ft sets by mid-late afternoon but expect small, very slow surf earlier. 

Sunday will see abating winds from the W/NW as a front clears to the east. This will again not be overly beneficiail for anywhere east of Melboure except Western Port (where wave heights are likely to be borderline, and therefore heavily reliant on a tidal push), so your best options will be west of Melbourne where we should see surf size holding 3-4ft at the more reliable swell magnets (smaller elsewhere).

For the record, our surf model is calling for bigger waves on Sunday, but I'd just rather be a little more cautious about this event; confidence is not especially high. Westerly swells not only shave off more size across the Surf Coast than usual, the consistency of the swell also decreases too, so we need to temper expectations.

But, there should be some fun waves about.

Next week (Sep 18 onwards)

A weak high pressure ridge will create variable winds on Monday as wave heights temporarily ease to 3ft on the Surf Coast and 4-6ft east of Melbourne (the westerly direction creating a bigger size spread from east to west, than we usually see). 

However, the conveyer belt of Southern Ocean fronts will resume persistent westerlies from Tuesday thru' next weekend, and we'll see a steady supply of moderate plus surf - again, with a strong westerly component - accompanying.

At this stage, most days should see size around the 3ft mark west of Melbourne and 4-6ft east of Melbourne, though there is scope for a little more size Wed/Thurs. Either way it's shaping up for another great run of waves for the Torquay region, with small surf options inside Western Port at the peak of each pulse too. 

I'll have more details on that in Monday's update.

Have a great weekend!

Comments

Tubbabird's picture
Tubbabird's picture
Tubbabird Friday, 15 Sep 2023 at 4:30pm

Just call it 6-8 with the odd bigger one on Sunday Benny! You know you want to

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 15 Sep 2023 at 4:31pm

Funny thing is the ocean wind speeds are capable of that kind of swell. It's just the underlying synoptic setup that I don't like.

pigdog's picture
pigdog's picture
pigdog Friday, 15 Sep 2023 at 4:51pm

looking at the low on the mslp yesterday anywhere from 600-100 kilometers more south would have been ok.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 15 Sep 2023 at 4:59pm

Yep.. but also the storm track should be tilted up towards the continent.

pigdog's picture
pigdog's picture
pigdog Friday, 15 Sep 2023 at 10:10pm

yea got ya. heads towards the SE. cheers BM

Thanos S's picture
Thanos S's picture
Thanos S Friday, 15 Sep 2023 at 5:35pm

Crikey, I’m waxing up the gun for Sunday , definitely purposely low key expectations being laid down for a reason. Gonna pump.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 16 Sep 2023 at 7:01am

Very small this morning as expected.

Gotta say, undercalling/forecasting smaller (than might be expected) surf is just as hard - if not harder - than forecasting big swell events.

Of course, no-one ever likes to get it wrong under any circumstances, - but it seems that the stakes are higher when you're downplaying a swell, as the perceived outcome is worse - a surf session is potentially missed, compared to rocking up to find it's smaller than expected.

greyhound's picture
greyhound's picture
greyhound Saturday, 16 Sep 2023 at 8:15am

Nah the other way round Benny.
Oh man they said it was gonna be 4/5 ft and it’s only 2/3. Worse from this punters point of view. Meaning Anything above the forecast call is a bonus. Nobody’s thinking of the under call if they’re getting better waves. Have a Good wkend mate.

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Sunday, 17 Sep 2023 at 8:14am

Yep for sure.
Much rather rock up and be surprised with more swell in the water than be disappointed with less than forecasted

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 17 Sep 2023 at 7:34am

Jeez, it's certainly over performing this morning. Seen a few 5-6ft sets on the cams.. impressive stuff!

greyhound's picture
greyhound's picture
greyhound Sunday, 17 Sep 2023 at 8:55am

The greyhound could smell this a week ago.

southernraw's picture
southernraw's picture
southernraw Sunday, 17 Sep 2023 at 9:35am

Just had a squiz at the cams. Looks bigger now. But that crowd at Winki does not look enjoyable at all.

PLStocks's picture
PLStocks's picture
PLStocks Sunday, 17 Sep 2023 at 4:47pm

Great waves this morning but watched a couple of bombs come thru bells this arvo. Reckon tubba called it straight up Friday.

Mr.Tee on a long board's picture
Mr.Tee on a long board's picture
Mr.Tee on a lon... Monday, 18 Sep 2023 at 8:31am

There were Big Crowds in the water and some good surf at W.P. yesterday.The car parks were full. Wed. should be good again at W.P. but the towel sitters have come out of winter hibernation.

branda's picture
branda's picture
branda Monday, 18 Sep 2023 at 9:55am

Yep like this morning. Expected 3-4ft.
Got 4-6ft+
LG

Dx3's picture
Dx3's picture
Dx3 Monday, 18 Sep 2023 at 10:39am

Spot on. Pleasantly surprised both yesterday and this morning. Despite a bit of wonkiness early, it was really consistent and solid this morning