More southerly energy inbound
Sydney Hunter Illawarra Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Mon July 14th)
Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)
- Another S'ly swell for Tues (clean with offshore winds), easing during the day and further into Wed (clean with offshore winds)
- Small background conditions Thurs
- S'ly winds developing Fri, building short range swell later and poss a flukey long range S'ly swell too
- Generally light winds for the weekend with small flukey long range S'ly swells
Recap
Strong southerly swells pushed through over the weekend, offering 4-6ft surf at south facing beaches, Sunday seeing max surf size overall with a few bigger sets across the Hunter region and other reliable south swell magnets. Conditions were nice and clean with offshore winds. Wave heights have eased back this morning from 3-4ft at south facing beaches (slightly bigger Hunter), with continuing clean conditions.
This week (July 15 - 18)
A strong front pushed into off the NSW coast the Tasman Sea overnight (see below), and it’s generating a strong flush of south swell that’ll fill in this evening and provide a nice boost in surf size across Southern NSW.
Unfortunately, wave heights will likely peak under the cover of darkness and will slowly fade through the day, but early morning should still provide 3-4ft sets at south facing beaches, with smaller waves elsewhere (but the odd bigger bomb across the Hunter). Slightly smaller surf is expected into the afternoon.
Conditions are looking really good too. A weak inland trough is expected to push off the coast tomorrow, freshening W/NW winds before tending W’ly later and easing. A small low will eventually form off the coast late int he day, but it will be located outside of our swell window, and will quickly become absorbed in the broadscale westerly flow, tracking quickly towards New Zealand. So we won't see any swell from it.
Easing size is expected through Wednesday with generally clean conditions under a light offshore breeze. South facing beaches should manage 2-3ft sets (with the usual size caveats elsewhere), but get in early for the most size.
Smaller background surf is expected on Thursday with generally light variable winds. Nothing major is likely surf wise but south swell magnets should have just-rideable options if you’re keen to get wet.
Friday looks tricky but there are some interesting things to keep on the radar.
A weak front will push up the coast, bringing a southerly change to the region through the day - probably before lunch south of Sydney, and after lunch to the north (we’ll firm up specifics on Wednesday).
The front will bring about a small short range southerly swell increase (small early, 2-3ft later), but more interesting is a potential flukey long period southerly swell, generated by a broad, vigorous storm progression through the Southern Indian Ocean over the weekend, midway between Heard Island and Western Australia.
This system is right on the periphery of our acute south swell window, and also a heck of a long distance away, and with poor winds a possibility it’s not worth getting too excited about.
However, it could very well supply some very infrequent 2-3ft sets to a handful of reliable south swell magnets from time to time. In the event Friday’s local wind forecast improves, this could end up being a useful primary swell source.
This weekend (July 19 - 20)
A fickle surf outlook requires greater scrutiny across flukey swell sources. And there’s a few of them on tap for this weekend.
Overall, there is no major surf expected this weekend, with our primary swell windows likely to be devoid of activity in the lead up. Conditions look to be generally clean with light variable winds Saturday and early light winds Sunday ahead of a freshening NE breeze into the afternoon.
However, as mentioned above (for Friday), we may see some fluke long period southerly swell lines across the coast at times originating from the Southern Indian Ocean - more likely Saturday, less likely Sunday. It’s the kind of swell event that’s not really worth working around, but if you have a reliable south swell magnet up your sleeve, will certainly be worth keeping a close eye on.
There’s one more swell that may (just) glance the Far South Coast, and perhaps the South Coast at a pinch.
A deep low is modeled to develop E/SE of New Zealand’s South Island on Wednesday, generating energy for the weekend. It’s an impressive system, though will unfortunately remain inside the NZ swell shadow - barely favouring Tasmania’s East Coast for small waves, and with decreasing size prospects as you head north into NSW.
Let’s take a closer look on Wednesday.
Next week (July 21 onwards)
A strong frontal progression approaching from the west and a stationary high in the Tasman Sea look to generate building short range NE swells early next week, probably accompanied with onshore winds.
The backside of this pattern will likely produce the best waves, as winds swing NW (probably around Tuesday), and we can likely expect trailing southerly swells to fill in behind this for the latter part of the week as the entire weather progression moves east towards New Zealand.
However, the models are in disagreement about the overall pattern so keep your expectations low for now.
See you Wednesday!
Comments
Swell peaked overnight and wasn't even 2ft on northern beaches.. despite daily surf check claiming 3ft. Checked a couple of south swell magnets and didn't even bother going out.
Bondi still looks 3ft (a few mins ago), with a few bigger sets earlier.
I don't want to argue with you, Ben, but that is hardly breaking and the daily surf report is meant to be for northern beaches. Tbh, I am a bit frustrated as I went down to the beach without my running gear based on the daily (and the forecast (3-4 ft) but i know that is not infallible) and I couldn't surf it. I checked two known south swell magnets and not just a drive-by; I watched them for a while. I would call it 2ft on the sets but that could be called a stretch. It was waist high. I note, the report has gone even higher on the second report; 3ft+!!
I don't believe Craig, or whomever else, went to the beach and checked it. If they did, I would like to know what beach.
This is not the first time I've noticed this and I know others have too. I don't want to complain but I think it would be helpful if the report could note when it is not a live check; ie, based on the report and/or cams. I'm sure it is only the rare occasion and it will be denied.
Otherwise, I love your site and the content. Love Craig's detailed forecast assessments. Cheers
was defs a healthy 3 foot where i surfed, lad. the NB is a long stretch of coast..
Yep, I didn't drive too far north but very unusual for it to vary so much.
Happy to agree to disagree, but I'm watching the Bondi cam now and there are head high plus sets pushing through right now.
Flukey swells sometimes have a habit of favouring some so-called reliable stretches/beaches and not others. The Northern Beaches in particular is notoriously fickle under south swells, so perhaps that's what happened this morning.
No worries. Has Craig stopped doing the surf checks? I know he had a baby so is understandable.
I don't believe he physically checked the surf then wrote that report. I know he surfs where I surf and trust his call. Unless he has moved?
If there is a new checker, can you let us know where they are checking? I don't think that's unreasonable. If they are not physically checking, I think it is fair we know that too and I won't put so much stock in it.
Craig still does some of the surf reports (he did this morning) but he moved away from Manly quite a while ago.
It's probably time for an explanatory article about how the surf reports have evolved over the years, and how they are being produced now (and what we're looking to implement in the future). I don't want to clog up this particular comment section with that discussion though, as these FC Notes will expire at lunchtime tomorrow, and it's like there'll be a long tail of discussion on this topic (there's nothing worse than an out-of-date forecast being propped up over and over by an off-topic discussion).
Thanks Ben, I look forward to it!
I'm gunna have a stab and say Craig checked Av, although still surprised it can be performing that much better than north curly.
That article's been coming soon for a few years now, don't hold your breath.
We also used to get pics which made it clear someone had gone to the beach and checked it. Is there any reason they've stopped?
When the pictures stopped and there became similarities in descriptions from other locations, I assumed the reports were now being done over the cams (potentially by a single person covering multiple regions around the coast). Much more economical way to do it that ensures you can be in bed during the surfless or poor weather mornings!
I surfed yesterday, down south, and I agree the swell was underwhelming relative to the buoy data. Admittedly I went to a semi sheltered spot and should have gone to a full exposure beach.
Great weekend though!
Sets are slow here, but there are head high sets. Very fun if you are prepared to sit and shiver
How about stating the reported beach. Peeps could make a fair judgement call on other spots based off that.......just saying..... :-)
Yeah...nah.
Naming spots is a slippery slope.
I don't think it's too much to ask that you should have a base knowledge of your area and use that in conjunction with daily reports.
If not - educate yourself and get in tune with your local reporter and how they describe the conditions.
I've moved homes twice in the last 5 years and spent the first 6 months at each place learning the different swell degree and period variations and how they affect each break.
Do your homework and get the rewards.
Mate, work it out yourself... never name a spot, where ever it is... just saying.
Thanks for that gents. No issues with reading the report, bouys and cams and how they translate in my area, just throwing in two bobs worth per Dan87's comments, for context. I have wondered myself sometimes where the report is reported from, its a fair question i reckon. Having done a report for a while, I always showed up to see it with my own peepers before reporting online.
Would be interested in reading Ben's article on the evolution of reports over the years.
Easy 3 ft pushing maybe 4 ft sets at south swell magnet CC mid morning…
Man, what sort of user name is that lol
Just check MHL or the Port Authority for swell details, then tide and wind for crying out load. Even have cams! Yeah yesterday was a bit weird based on the 'live' bouy data but was a dying long period swell so definitely a bit slow.