Lots of options to pick n' choose from

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

Sydney, Hunter and Illawarra Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 31st January)

Best Days: Sun: punchy, improving NE swell with light winds developing through the morning ahead of a late S'ly change. Mon: light winds (mainly in the morning) and a small peaky mix of swells. Thurs onwards: building E'ly tending NE swell, possibly sizeable around Fri/Sat. Plenty of swell expected into the following week too.

Recap: A small S’ly swell provided 2ft+ sets to most south facing beaches on Thursday though it was a little inconsistent. Conditions were clean with morning offshores; afternoon onshores bumped things up. Today we’ve seen very small conditions early on, with a distant E/NE swell from a tropical low near Samoa not showing (yet.. though it was only meant to be a small, flukey event anyway). Winds are now freshening from the NE and we’re seeing building windswells across the region. 

NE windswells on the build at Manly this afternoon

This weekend (Feb 1 - 2)

We’ve got stacks of surf on tap for this weekend. But, Saturday will be wind affected.

The source of this swell - out of the NE - is a strong fetch developing adjacent to the coast as we speak, extending up into Northern NSW and a reasonable distance off the East Coast. We’ll see 3-4ft+ sets at most NE facing beaches, possibly a little bigger south from Sydney, but it doesn’t look like there’ll be much in the way of favourable pockets. 

A S’ly change will move up along the Far South Coast on Sunday morning, and it’s currently expected to reach Sydney mid-late afternoon (~5pm, give or take an hour). 

Prior to its arrival, we’ll see the northerly flow ease and become variable across most coasts. Ideally, winds would swing moderate offshore to iron out the lumps and bumps form the overnight flow, but this is unlikely, so expect a slow improvement in surface conditions through the morning instead. It looks like the best waves will probably occur around lunchtime across most Sydney, Hunter and Illawarra coasts (earlier on the South Coast, as the change is due here sooner), and the late S’ly will probably become quite gusty, confining the only rideable options to protected southern corners. 

As for size, Saturday’s estimated wave heights will probably hold through Sunday morning but then ease into the afternoon, as the approaching trough disrupts the swell source. There’ll be waves all day though, so just pick the eyes out of the wind.

Next week (Feb 3 onwards)

Sunday’s late S’ly change will largely dissipate overnight, leaving most coasts under a light variable breeze to kick off the working week.

Sunday’s NE swell will have eased quite a bit by then, but not entirely, as the N’ly fetch will remain anchored off Northern NSW on Sunday night. So, expect a small peaky mix of NE swell and minor S’ly windswell (trailing the change) with sets around 2ft+ at exposed beaches. 

A much stronger S’ly change will advance along the South Coast during the day, reaching Sydney mid-late afternoon again (sometime around 5pm, give or take). 

This will be a broader, deeper change that will have a more significant trailing fetch, and will generate a solid S’ly swell in its wake (for Tuesday), with south facing beaches likely to reach 4-5ft+ early, though it will abate during the day. Initially there’ll be a lingering S/SE breeze but this will also throttle back as the day progresses. So expect average conditions at first, improving into the afternoon. 

Beyond this, we’ve got a dynamic period of surf coming up. Though, mid-week will be between events so expect a few days of smaller surf. 

Monday’s late S’ly change will clear to the North Coast into Tuesday, then weaken before lingering as a trough off SE Qld. We’ll then see the trough slowly deepen later in the week, and move southwards, possibly forming a low off Southern NSW around Friday or Saturday (see below). Regardless, we'll see building E’ly then NE swells with potentially some very large waves depending on how the low evolves (we're not quite sure which part of the coast will see the most size either).

It’s still early days, but I’m holding firm for my expectations of a peak in the 6ft, maybe 6-8ft range at the height of the event, though there’s plenty of room for a further upgrade. We’ll initially see residual S/SE and E’ly swells on Wednesday in the 2-3ft range, with surf size starting to ramp up through Thursday. 

Dynamic troughs like this are excellent for surf prospects if they remain close enough to the coast to allow locally variable winds, whilst still generating strong surf. However, there is a fair chance that some part of this event will be accompanied with periods of onshore winds, though it’s still too far out to have any confidence in the specifics. So let’s take another pass on Monday to hone in on the best windows of opportunity.

This swell event will dominate the region into the start of the following week, but the long term outlook beyond this looks great with sustained trades across the Northern Tasman Sea expected to supply moderate E/NE swells through the rest of that week.

Have a great weekend, see you Monday!

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 31 Jan 2020 at 5:48pm

Just a quick note on the timing of Sunday's change - there's quite a bit of model divergence on this right now. So, I'll update tomorrow with the latest (as it could be earlier than I've indicated above). 

NDC's picture
NDC's picture
NDC Friday, 31 Jan 2020 at 9:17pm

Above n beyond ben - thx
The notes are so helpful and definitely Helping me squeeze. A bit more out of the available surf

Westofthelake's picture
Westofthelake's picture
Westofthelake Saturday, 1 Feb 2020 at 6:07pm

BOM forecast says around noon for the southerly tomorrow.
40 plus here today and tomorrow. Thank goodness there are no major fires around here.

Westofthelake's picture
Westofthelake's picture
Westofthelake Friday, 31 Jan 2020 at 6:38pm

Onya Ben. Love ya work. Juicy is good.

redsands's picture
redsands's picture
redsands Friday, 31 Jan 2020 at 7:06pm

Ben, is there anything still expected from the low punching out below NZ near the Ross sea? Thanks

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 31 Jan 2020 at 7:31pm

Shit! Completely forgot about this system, mainly due to the other swells being more dominant. I'm not near a computer right now but will take a look ASAP. Thanks for reminding me.

redsands's picture
redsands's picture
redsands Friday, 31 Jan 2020 at 8:03pm

No worries I was hoping this swell would happen.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 8:29am

OK, haven't had a chance to sit down properly until now - we saw winds go moderate S'ly before dawn with the trough, though after a few hours calm conditions settled in across the Illawarra and this trend is likely across Sydney/Hunter coasts too. A gusty S'ly change is still expected later today and an even stronger S'ly change expected later Monday.

As for the polar low and possible SE swell for early next week: ASCAT passes did pick up a reasonable fetch over the last few days, but the enormous travel distance means the sets will be small and extremely inconsistent (maybe 2ft). As such, local swell sources will certainly be the dominant swell in the water over the coming days. 

And the rest of the forecast (mid-late next week onwards) is still super dynamic - can't rule out an ECL at this stage, though a broad, stationary (and possibly supercharged) troughy setup looks more likely. Stacks of sizeable swell inbound though winds still look dicey for some coasts; it's too early to be certain where the best waves will occur. 

science's picture
science's picture
science Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 9:03am

Would an ECL be unusual for this time of year?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 10:08am

Certainly more common through the autumn and winter months, but one-off events can happen at any time of the year (just like snow, which is expected in parts of Tasmania tomorrow).

science's picture
science's picture
science Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 11:03am

ah yeah good point, kind of like off-season cyclones, thanks for that.

alan smithee's picture
alan smithee's picture
alan smithee Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 8:48am

When the fuck is Newcastle going to see anything that isn't 2ft fucking mush... You can bang on about windswells and flukey swells and god knows what else but the reality is it has been shit for fucking months and at the current rate I don't expect to see shit anytime soon regardless of the swell forecast cause you always seem to have it as though "next week looks promising, or long term looks good" but when it comes to that time, it's more like 2ft fucking mush. Need waves, rant over

gcuts's picture
gcuts's picture
gcuts Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 10:21am

Traveling the coast from the Goldy to Sydney I get to see the conditions across a wide stretch, and I tell ya, it's not only Newcastle with ongoing mush conditions. Whole stretch has pretty much been onshore slop for 6 months. Yes, few days here and there, odd swell, but the winds have been usually unfavorable. My records / log show this as the pattern back in late 70's (78 to be exact) which lasted 5 years until '84 when we had a great run for a few years.

pancakecollaroy's picture
pancakecollaroy's picture
pancakecollaroy Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 10:39am

Maybe it’s just how you set your standards but in the surf this morning my mates have been talking about how stoked we’ve been with the amount of ~3ft cleanish peaky beachie sessions in the last month in Sydney. Not epic but pretty good for summer.

abrion20's picture
abrion20's picture
abrion20 Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 3:57pm

Is it just me or was the surf today nowhere near the reported 5/10?

Twichy's picture
Twichy's picture
Twichy Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 6:46pm

Checked it a 6 this morning
Light off shore wind
Suited up
Hit the sand at 6:10am
Southerly in the face
Shieeet