Small, fun E swell keeps chugging away with mostly light morning winds
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Wed 25th Jan)
Forecast Summary (tl;dr)
- Fun E swell slowly eases Wed next week as ex TC drifts in from New Caledonia
- Residual E swell holds at fun levels through Thurs into the weekend
- Flukey long period SSE swell builds in Sat favouring NENSW, eases slowly through Sun
- More small E swell on the cards for next week stay tuned for updates
Plenty of fun waves yesterday with mostly E swell to 3ft+ across the grounds ( 4ft sets reported on the Sunshine Coast), clean early under light land breezes before NE winds kicked in leading to a line of spectacular storms to close the day across most of the region. Size is a little under today with 2-3ft surf, boosting a notch as the tide came in. Similar wind conditions with light/variable land breezes early tending mod/fresh NE through the a’noon.
This week (Jan 25-27)
The synoptic pattern over and surrounding Australia still has a strong La Niña signature with troughy low pressure areas in the Tasman Sea and an active monsoon trough across Northern Australia. High pressure on the other side of New Zealand is cradling areas of low pressure and maintaining a small, fun E swell signal. Way down south, a storm force low extending from the ice shelf to ocean waters SE of the South Island has generated some rare long period SSE-SE swell which is expected to make landfall late Fri and over the weekend.
In the short run, E swell just eases back a notch tomorrow, still offering up some fun 2 to occasional 3ft sets. Light/variable winds early offer clean conditions before NE sea breezes kick in again. It’s a rinse and repeat day with slightly smaller surf.
More of the same expected Fri. Small mid period E swell keeps chugging away in the 2ft+ range as low pressure remnants in the Northern Tasman maintain a steady state fetch. Through the late a’noon some very long period SSE-SE swell is expected to make landfall from the monster low on the other side of the South Island. It’s radial spread from a source fetch a long way away and with such long periods it’ll be hit and miss. Sets to 2-3ft are a possibility at some noted S swell magnets, although Sat is more likely for this outcome. In short it’s a flukey source so keep expectations pegged.
This weekend (Jan28-29)
Winds look OK for Sat morning. There should be an extended period of W/NW to NW land breezes on offer before the winds swing NE through the a’noon. Long period SSE-SE swell looks to peak with inconsistent 2-3ft sets at swell exposed spots with high variability of wave heights expected across the region. Filling in the gaps will be more mid period E swell to 2ft, with a slight bump in size expected though the day.
Size eases down from all sources Sun holding around the 2ft+ range at most spots- with a few leftover SSE sets possible through the morning. Expect flukey/variable winds early as another trough works it’s way up the NSW coas, tending to light/mod NE sea breezes.
Next week (Jan30 onwards)
Flukey/variable winds extend into Mon, with light NE’lies the most likely outcome, as a new high moves E of Tasmania.
Winds look to shift back to a light SE’ly pattern Tues as a small trough hovers off the North Coast of NSW.
As mentioned last week, E’ly fetches on the Eastern side of the Tasman Sea near the North Island linked to lingering low pressure look to maintain a regime of pulsey, small fun E swell.
A fetch over the weekend looks to supply a small boost Tues after a day of smaller 1-2ft surf Mon, pushing wave heights back to 2ft or so slowly easing through Wed.
The fetch rebuilds early next week linked to a long, broad tradewind fetch in the South Pacific slot between the North Island and South Pacific Islands (see below). This fetch retrogrades into the Tasman Sea suggesting a nice boost in E/SE swell likely through Thurs into Fri with size likely to reach 3ft.
Winds look uncertain with plenty of run to run model divergence so we’ll hold off making a call there for now, although with an expected continuation of weak pressure gradients they should be light enough to work around.
In short, E swell looks to keep ticking away at really fun levels through next week so if you’ve been finding a fun bank you can book in more days next week.
Check back Fri and we’ll see how it’s shaping up as well as a last look at the weekend.
I'm ready for a proper swell now!
Yeh same man, hanging for good waves.
Seem like sand is shit around most places
Some good 4’ sets on the run in tide Tweed Coast magnet this morning. Surprisingly solid, 8 wave sets and a few hold downs. Pretty much gone by the arvo though
Probably surfed the most hollow 2ft+ waves I've ever surfed this morning. Sheet glass, bath warm water.
The crowds are back in force today.
Been empty beachies for weeks.
Everyone had good etiquette though.
Pretty small on the SC and quite the crew around
Fun beachies by the looks the last couple of days. In the middle of a bit of a flair up, so it's looking on for me for the time being. Enjoy lads
Australia Day and Boxing Day are easily the 2 busiest days of the year here and I'm sure many coastal towns. I'll be up early tomorrow with a garbage bag hoping the bogans and blowins haven't trashed it too much this year.
Anyway, a week straight of cool early offshores and fun waves in January, weird.
I'll take it with open arms after the 12 months we've had
Beautiful glassy consistent morning on the beaches round our way . incoming tide brought some fun ones .... happy
Rather than battle the crowd I did a 2hr sup in Currumbin Creek ( good fitness) , when I finished at 8.00am blokes were on the Woodstock cans.
Going to be a long day for some!
Got a few fun ones but nothing great. Can't wait for Autumn.
In past years, our local creek has been scattered with breakfast-time drinkers. Its not that surprising given in my neck of the woods, people can't seem to go very long sober and the sound of recycling bins being emptied on Mondays. I guess Oz Day gives them another excuse, eh?
One year the surf was flat so I went for a morning beach run and again in the arvo. The drinkers who were there in the morning were still there late arvo. I guess they were reinforced by every other bogan who arrived after. Long day in the sun, indeed.
Yep Australia Day is just another excuse for most possess Aussies to get shit faced.
Some fun shories on the higher tide this morning on the SC. Probably one of the funnest surfs I’ve had in ages.
Had a snorkel in the lagoon as the tide came in.
10/10 water clarity (for here) and the lagoon was filled with a mix of temperate, sub-tropical and tropical species.
Went spearfishing off point look out and noticed the same, got a giant black bream and sweet lip, crystal clear. Aus day BBQ going down a treat