Keep your weekend expectations low; mid-next week onwards has great promise

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 31st January)

Best Days: Sat/Sun: early windows of light winds in SE Qld with small peaky beachies. Nothing amazing. Mon: light winds in Northern NSW (best early on the MNC) and a small mix of swells. Tues: S'ly change extending across the coast, late kick in S/SE swell. Best on Wed with fresh SE winds, ideal for most outer points. Thurs onwards: extended period of decent E'ly thru' E/NE swell with generally OK winds. 

Recap: A small S’ly swell provided 2ft+ sets to south facing beaches south of Byron on Thursday though it was a little inconsistent. Elsewhere, wave heights were very small, and conditions were clean for the most of the day under a light variable breeze. Today has seen the S’ly swell ease back, and a small distant E’ly swell come in at the bottom end of forecast expectations with very occasional 2ft sets at exposed beaches. Early light winds are now around to the NE. 

Small S'ly swell in Coffs Thursday

Small E'ly swell at Burleigh today

This weekend (Feb 1 - 2)

The weekend looks a little ordinary, but there will be waves here and there, mainly in SE Qld. 

The current E’ly swell isn’t anything to write home about, and won’t make much of a dent in our surf prospects. However, a redeveloping trade flow south of New Caledonia is generating some fresh E’ly energy and this will build slowly through Saturday towards a peak on Sunday. 

No major size is expected, and we’ll see the upper end of the forecast range across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW, with smaller surf as you head south from Ballina. Expect inconsistent 2ft sets on Saturday to build to 2-3ft on Sunday north from Ballina, with smaller surf reaching 1-2ft elsewhere. 

The main problem this weekend will be freshening N’ly winds. They’ll impact the Mid North Coast for almost the entire time (save a few windows early each day where it’ll be lighter) but SE Qld and Far Northern NSW (down to Byron or Ballina) will see less wind strength, and the mornings - in particular Saturday - should see light winds, possibly NW. 

So, keep your expectations low and aim for the early session, either at exposed beaches in the north or sheltered northern corners in the south.

Next week (Feb 3 onwards)

N’ly winds will persist across some coasts into Monday, though a weakening trough approaching from the south will bring about a period of light variable winds ahead of it, affecting the Mid North Coast during the morning, and Far Northern NSW by lunchtime. 

There is however a chance that the N’ly flow may become re-established into the afternoon as a stronger S’ly change pushes up behind it, reaching the Mid North Coast overnight. 

As such, Monday looks a little average with a small mix of easing swells and tricky winds. Early morning looks to offer the best options, probably in Northern NSW.

The outlook beyond this remains very dynamic. 

Tuesday’s S’ly change is expected to be in the vicinity of Yamba around dawn and will push up to the border by mid-late morning (with light variable winds ahead of it). A strong S/SE fetch trailing behind will generate a sizeable short range swell though local winds will render exposed breaks very bumpy, and you’ll have to tuck in behind a sheltered point for the cleanest conditions. 

The timing of this change and the associated swell is a little knife-edge for SE Qld’s outer point. At this stage there’s certainly a chance for a late pulse from early/mid-afternoon onwards, though any delays in the model output could push this back to just being a Wednesday event. 

Anyway, the change will stall as a trough across SE Qld into Wednesday, driving fresh SE winds across most coasts and building surf size to 3ft+ across the outer points (smaller at sheltered points) with bumpy 3-5ft waves across Northern NSW. There should be enough east in the swell direction here to favour the Northern NSW points with small surf.

We’ve then got quite a few swell sources for the rest of the week. Rebuilding trades through the Coral Sea will contribute ~3ft of E/NE swell across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW for the rest of the week, becoming bigger near 4ft+ by the following weekend as the fetch muscles up.

The trough off SE Qld will slowly move south and intensify, likely forming a closed low off Southern NSW by the end of the week, and generating a secondary E/NE thru’ NE swell for Northern NSW (for our region, biggest along the Lower Mid North Coast). 

It’s still early days, but I’m holding firm for my expectations of a peak in the 6ft, maybe 6-8ft range at the height of the event somewhere along the East Coast - though this now looks more likely to be south from Seal Rocks - which means decreasing wave heights with increasing northerly latitude. 

Regardless, we’re looking at an extended run of punchy surf for all coasts, and local winds look like they’ll cooperate too - with no sign of any incessant northerly pattern until the following weekend (and early indications are that won’t be too strong either). So, most of next week’s E’ly thru’ NE swells should be quite workable.

The long term outlook beyond this looks great with sustained trades across the Northern Tasman Sea expected to supply moderate or bigger E’ly swells through the rest of that week.

Have a great weekend, see you Monday!

Comments

Mata's picture
Mata's picture
Mata Friday, 31 Jan 2020 at 8:12pm

Seasons seem to be extended or delayed. Typical spring conditions in early summer. Typical early summer conditions at the end of summer

gingeryeti's picture
gingeryeti's picture
gingeryeti Friday, 31 Jan 2020 at 9:10pm

I am yeti

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 1 Feb 2020 at 7:53am

Coupla small waves out of the east. I ain't holding my breath today though.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 1 Feb 2020 at 8:32am

I'm actually having way more fun in this proper babyfood than that nasty 2-3ft onshore close-out shit we got for most of the last 2 weeks of Jan.

least there are a couple of peel-offs.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 1 Feb 2020 at 11:46am

Forced myself to paddle out at an empty beachie and had more fun than I thought I would. Generally peaky 2ft sets though it seemed to slightly build later in the session (bigger than 2ft, not quite 3ft). Water has cooled a little too, just perfect around 23-24 degrees. And no blueys either.

Distracted's picture
Distracted's picture
Distracted Saturday, 1 Feb 2020 at 1:40pm

No chance to get out on an open beach this morning on the MNC, nor’easter was pumping from the get go and bringing the red weed in. Northern corner was clean for a little while but tiny.

mickseq's picture
mickseq's picture
mickseq Saturday, 1 Feb 2020 at 2:02pm

I have high hopes for the morning

deepinthegreenroom's picture
deepinthegreenroom's picture
deepinthegreenroom Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 4:07am

And so you should Mickseq

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 5:43am

Tuesday 4 February
Winds
North to northwesterly 15 to 20 knots shifting south to southeasterly 20 to 30 knots during the morning.

what the hell? A southerly change.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 8:18am

Looks like a fun morning of small peaky beachies across the Surfers Paradise stretch.


simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 8:33am

well the bar has been lowered so far down now that its on the ground.

tiger's picture
tiger's picture
tiger Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 8:49am

My thoughts exactly. What constitutes good waves now, is vastly different to what I remember. It's like we are living in the eternal spring, where expectations are severely lowered. And this is coming from a glass half full kind of guy.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 10:25am

So true.

Last summer almost broke me- that endless parade of onshore 2-3ft close-outs. But I did surf a lot, mostly out of habit, as an experiment. To be honest though, I did not find it enjoyable. Lot of the time I came in thinking: "what the fuck did I waste my time doing that for".
Benefit was, when surf came, I was surf fit and had a sharp blade.

This summer I was more prepared mentally. I took the lowest possible expectation: summer will likely be a constant northerly flow with onshore close-outs on the beachies.
By and large, that has transpired.
I've surfed everyday. Mostly with my son. Mostly in rippy, close-outs. Mostly on a soft board. Mostly kneeboarding. Mostly in the whitewater, for three wave surfs.
10 minutes.
If it's better than expected, surf longer. If waves look fun, take a shorty out.

No frustration. Keeping the blade sharp and not wasting hours paddling around in close-outs.

I've surfed and had fun in some of the worst surf I've seen since the English Channel.

gcuts's picture
gcuts's picture
gcuts Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 10:32am

Mentally prepared, or just mental? Fuck me, let's not try and polish a turd. It's been shit and my fat gut and lack of surf fitness hasn't been this bad since the late 70's, well, other than the year I broke my back, and the year I cracked my neck. So, yeah, other than injury caused fuck-dom the seasonal change is producing shit surf conditions.

I'm going to buy a hydrofoil so I can at least avoid the bumpy conditions. And no, not a SUP version.

Mata's picture
Mata's picture
Mata Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 2:29pm

Well, I did the opposite this summer. I didn't surf the average waves that were in front of me, because there was always swell just around the corner. That never really eventuated.

Have surfed twice in 2 months

Recalibrating expectations now!

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Monday, 3 Feb 2020 at 7:39am

Sounds like a good regime Freeride. I do recall your many rants last summer. Sounds as though managing your expectations has done you well.

I had quite a bit of fun last summer but have found my self not getting in the crud as much as normal this year. Its actually been nice as I’ve rediscovered a few other things and set a few fitness goals outside of surfing. It’s been nice body surfing and pushing my kids into waves more.

Although I’d chop lefty off for a clean four footer, knowing the surf will be constantly shite for extended periods can be liberating. Not having to be in a state of constant anticipation of the next swell and all the variables that come with it. This state is the antithesis of being present in everyday life.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 2:34pm

I'm expecting this onshore/NE pattern to go right through Autumn like it did last year: if something like a normal Autumn pattern happens I'll be stoked, if the onshore crud continues I'll stick with the regiment.

linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 4:09pm

Surely not, please

NoUseforaName's picture
NoUseforaName's picture
NoUseforaName Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 4:47pm

I think the Sunny Coast has fared the best the last 2-3 weeks. Reckon I’ve surfed reasonable to good beachies 3-4 times a week 3 weeks straight. This morning was great fun. We have to win occasionally up here cos we get shafted so often.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 7:00pm

woke up this morning after the northerly blew all night and it was smeg, as expected.

had a great snorkel in the Bruns river yesterday though, came around a corner of a rock wall and came face to face with the biggest mangrove jack I've ever seen.
he was in no ways disturbed by my presence, so I hung out there for a while.

20knots plus of northerly again today, with predictable results.
both major back beaches with shit banks.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 7:13pm

The river I stay near when I’m over East has huge Jack in it. I never knew until I saw a young bloke spear one inside the breakwalls. I thought it was illegal to spear in enclosed waters.

Some great diving in those rivers and creeks.

linez's picture
linez's picture
linez Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 7:30pm

Couple of days of southerlies, then east or thereabouts for as far as the eye can see..

mickseq's picture
mickseq's picture
mickseq Sunday, 2 Feb 2020 at 8:54pm

Got some nice ones on the northern stretch, glad I went down

dannyp's picture
dannyp's picture
dannyp Monday, 3 Feb 2020 at 7:26am

Looks like another big high in the Tasman is gonna ruin an otherwise decent swell event...

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 3 Feb 2020 at 7:57am

Just when there was hope.. jeez looks like those winds are going to ruin things again! Only a couple of small windows 100km north of any trough that forms.

Vic Local's picture
Vic Local's picture
Vic Local Monday, 3 Feb 2020 at 4:03pm

Is that a cyclone developing near New Caledonia late this week?