Everyone Everywhere All At Once

Dan Dobbin picture
Dan Dobbin (dandob)
Swellnet Dispatch

It's been a cracking autumn, huh!?

Bluebird clear weather, warm water, 4-6 feet of pulsing swell for days on end, tonnes of people in the water enjoying each other's company…

All aboard (Photo Shayne Nienaber)

It's Easter Monday and I'm expecting the worst. Every person and their consorts know there's going to be waves today. I've headed to the moodiest wave in my area, the one that used to be strictly the domain of the bodyboarder for many a year, hoping against hope that its fickle and shallow nature may dissuade others from paddling out. 

No such luck. As the tide fills in, so does the crowd. There's local reef chiefs, respected underground chargers, a tiny ten-year old kid having a dig, hipster dude on a wooden paipo, a guy on a huge clubby board sitting wide catching the green water swells as they break into the bay,. At one point three older gentleman with the local surf lifesaving club name emblazoned across their matching dickies swim into the lineup with plastic hand planes to try to pick off the smaller insiders. It's a circus. I know surfing in crowds is all about your attitude and yada yaa yadda but I come in frustrated. It was not fun.

Surfing is often sold to the masses under a pseudo-wellness umbrella which waxes lyrical about the physical, mental, and spiritual power of "saltwater therapy" while spending time "immersed" in the natural environment. Images of smiley happy people laughing their way through joyous sessions in bright sunlight and sparkling blue water are de rigueur from the WSL's corporate headquarters down to the local gal on the socials. 

Surfing and surf lineups, particularly crowded surfing lineups, are very rarely like that. They're competitive, and difficult, and hostile, and often very dangerous, usually because of the crowd.

The flip side to the 'surfing as joyous panacea' narrative has to be the acknowledgement that surfing in crowds often evokes feelings of frustration, angst and potential outbursts of aggression, the very inverse of the positive mental health activity that surfing is often marketed as.

The mystery of this unattended barrel is answered by the dry rock just out of frame (Photo Shield)

A few months ago I was doing the old endless scroll on Insta. Sandwiched between the 'recommended for you' and target ads that seem to comprise most of the content these days was a post from Surfing Queensland announcing a free coaching program for all Queensland women over the age of 18 called 'Surf Sisters'. Any wannabe future adult gurfers who sign up will able to receive free coaching lessons, access to 'Surf Better Now', an online surf coaching service created by Surfing Victoria, and a complimentary Rip Curl product pack.

"Cool initiative," I thought as my thumb kept wiping content meaninglessly before my eyes. 

The next few posts then displayed some of the action from what was Tropical Cyclone Gabrielle, with all of the flotsam and jetsam of the muddled masses populating the Queensland points at that time making up the majority of the content.

With such a juxtaposition of images it wasn’t too big of a leap to think: " Why are more people being encouraged to take up surfing with crowds already like this?"

I'm not coming at this from some crusty "If you don't surf, don't start" gatekeeper mentality. I'm certainly not averse to more diversity and equity of the sexes in lineups. I just think it's a conundrum.

In a traditional sport like soccer or netball, increased participation rates in the activity don't affect the ability of an individual to enjoy the activity. These sports take place within static parameters, so no matter how many people sign up to play, a soccer game, for example, will always only involve 22 players on the field for a 90 minute period. The experience remains the same regardless of increased participation rates in the sport overall.

However, we all know that within surfing this is not the case. As soon as even one other person enters the line up, surfing at its core becomes a battle for access to resources.That battle multiplies exponentially as more surfers are added to the equation. Individually we do everything we can to get ourselves on the best waves. If that means posturing, snaking, back paddling, intimidating, and upselling others on shittier waves to be where you want to be, well that's all part of surfing in crowds. It brings out the worst in us, but that's the game.

The number one gripe with most of the core surfing community seems currently to be that there are already too many surfers. I’d wager that none of us have ever rocked up to session and wished there were more people out.

Doesn't it then follow that any initiatives that actively seek to encourage more people to take up surfing actually work against the interests of existing surfers?

The marketing of surfing as something cool and desirable to do is nothing new. Was surfing outside of Hawaii not introduced and popularised to the world on the back of Duke Kahanamoku’s surfing exhibitions and impromptu surf lessons? The rise of the QuikRipaBong clothing empires built on selling the surfer image to city dwellers and middle America? The difference then from now seems to be one of accessibility. Soft tops, surf schools, sponsored programs, slicker wetsuits, and softened attitudes have all contributed to the removal of many of the barriers that had previously deterred many from entering the lineup.

I'm not naive or unworldly enough to not understand that there are jobs and funding within Surfing Oz and the various state bodies that are tied to government funded initiatives and performance indicators to grow participation in what is now an Olympic sport. I acknowledge that for companies within the surfing space more people surfers means more consumers for products. It just seems an interesting position that the bodies and companies that supposedly should represent and appeal to surfers seem to be now inadvertently working against the interests of their core constituents by continuing to sell a utopian vision of surfing to the masses to encourage its uptake.

So what to do about it? I suppose the old maxim that if you’re not part of the solution you’re part of the problem holds true. Next hyped swell I think I might just stay home, it may be better for my mental health that way. 



frog's picture
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frog Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 11:20am

This is not inadvertent or unusual in business:
"interesting position that the bodies and companies that supposedly should represent and appeal to surfers seem to be now inadvertently working against the interests of their core constituents by continuing to sell a utopian vision of surfing to the masses to encourage its uptake."

There is a predatory / prey dimension to capitalism.

At its extreme think of gambling businesses exploiting punters (with the most cynical line ever "bet with mates!" - aka help your mates lose).

But now we have more than just the corporate angle, we have the micro capitalism multiplier of social media, vloggers and influencers plus the bigger pool of potential participation due to immigration, "work" from home and flexible work arrangements, van lifers, boomer retirees, participation spread from 5 to 85 age groups of the many genders and better equipment.

But I like to blame Ziff and Elo most of all. Easy satisfying targets.

Warm water (probably all) point breaks are doomed. Crowds are self limiting as most people give up (a massive churn due to very poor reward / pain ratio) to an extent but the recent superbank crowds suggest that this limit is stratospherically high.

Crappy and random empty beachbreaks beckon. Lots of those.

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tomdo Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 12:13pm

Yep, never ceases to amaze: the human capacity to shit in our own backyard, and willingly work against our own best interest. Surfers are no exception.

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vinnyxavier Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 12:34pm

No company that I'm aware of represents or appeals to real surfers. They are not the problem. Surfing media, and websites, maybe. Still, I've been surfing the points in the last swell with just a few guys around and catching lots of good waves. You just have to know where to sit. Going there early also helps.

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Garryh Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 12:17pm

This probably isn't the place to suggest this....but remember when surfboards needed to be licensed? Perhaps its time that local councils with very popular surf breaks bring in a licensing system...perhaps something akin to a fishing license. Ok ok...if you live in the local council area perhaps rate payers get a free license per household and everyone else needs to pay. Hey super popular high quality surf breaks are a limited resource with seemingly unlimited demand which seems a perfect place to introduce a fee system. The fees could be used to police the system and maybe even to research and build more waves. I'm a bit scared to post this in case I get cancelled but that's modern times for you. Cancel away

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OllyG Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 3:16pm

I agree with you here mate. Good waves are absolutely a finite resource that can be tapped to benefit the local community. Especially in poorer places (I'm living in PNG where this is already in place for a number of spots), it can make a real difference.

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slowman Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 4:53pm

If you are going to bring in licenses you may as well go the whole hog and have traffic cops on jet skis at busy lineups;ensuring the queue moves in an orderly fashion!

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adam12 Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 12:37pm

Yeah and those fucking websites with really accurate forecasts and surfcams that make it all so easy...no wait... what?... oops.

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Blake87 Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 9:30pm


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lindo Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 12:34pm

At 67 and still surfing occasionally, 60 years on, I have, like Dan, watched this unfold. Surfing was always going to get more popular, but its near-exponential growth surprised many of us. The sea-change phenom contributed a lot, as did flexibility in work and lots of rich kids, many sponsored by business or the bank of mum and dad (check out the number of young crew driving jetskis on weekdays). Corporate profit, and their wall-to-wall propaganda in surf- and other media is a big part of it of course. Those companies have made billions off the backs of millions of 'look at me' I'm a surfer too crew (I seem to recall Monty Weber writing an article in Tracks many years ago about this). As has so-called professionalism and surfing's shiny clean image, with potential for careers as surf-stars (how many crew are on the various tiers of WCT? - thousands, with overly pushy parents grooming their kids to be the next GOAT. Surf schools have done their bit too.
What to do?
More surf ranches needing significant energy and infrastructure to spread the crowds?
Spotlights for night surfing?
Passes to limit access - could work at places like Noosa National Park, where access is via QLD government property, but not most places and unlikely to go down well with the masses. Noosa is a classic case in point, with gridlock and anger from well before dawn on the roads feeding the fabled points.
Move to a less popular destination - my solution 14 years ago - worked for a decade and there were times when I was surfing 8' running lefts by myself, wishing someone would turn up! But then the word got out, and our quiet little village rapidly, over just a couple of years, converted into a version of Byron Bay, with recent imports from the big smokes nationally and a major influx of internationals from as far afield as UK, Japan and Brazil, as the publicity machine (much of it orchestrated by locals) took its inevitable toll. House prices doubled, then doubled again, not only because of surfer interest. Can't blame 'em - I did the same thing! But now there are growing incidents of surf rage and the new 'locals' are often the cause. Given how it is now, I am not even sure if I'd take it up, and perhaps that may gradually ease crowding, albeit at an intense level.

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johnruciak Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 12:52pm

Man, surfing on the east cost looks so much different to surfing in SA....I can't see one shark in that photo.

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gromnuggets Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 2:15pm

Also one of those places where you do wish for more people in the lineup

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OHBILLY Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 10:58am

Yeah, I read that in the article and thought, there's been a fair few times here in WA where I've thought "Awesome! there's no one out, but gee-wiz it would be nice to have a witness"

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Remigogo Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 1:36pm

Same here OHBILLY.

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john wise Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 12:25pm

yep on entering surf shop in kirra a millennial ago said i was from sa, assistant said aren't you scared of the sharks, i think those fears are gone judging by number of interstate plates on west coast

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many-rivers Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 1:10pm

It is the MMMOOSSs.

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hoody Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 1:24pm

Its the need to make money off of surfing that is the crux. Everyone wants a bit of the action. The more punters the more action. Turbo fins, wax combs, after surf shower units. All designed to grab a bit of the surf dollar.
Even the surfing association in SA is a business venture now. Trying to hold big event style comps with surfing second. State titles decided in a one chance big entry fee final jammed into the guise of a Surfing Festival. Lets not mention these events can also go belly up and cause massive losses due to the focus on money.
All said and done no matter where you surf its the attitude you take into the ocean that matters. Slow down, watch the birds and fish, be patient with the learners, ignore the aggro, get some waves and have some fun..

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Boops Thursday, 4 May 2023 at 11:19am

Nice comment.

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Island Bay Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 1:55pm

You lost me at 'diversity and equity...'

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velocityjohnno Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 2:19pm

Ya know they don't chase you (normal life)
They always chase we (Surfing)
'cos everybody wants a piece
We’re so trendy

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halleys-comet Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 2:35pm

I'm with you IB, "diversity and equity" woke socialist nonsense I reckon.
And I have often wished for a few more crew to surf with this last summer in NZ - not Raglan though!, seeing kilometers of 3-5ft beachies, peaks everywhere, offshore, "fresh" white pointer stories.. good for crowd control!

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stunet Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 3:14pm

"I'm with you IB, "diversity and equity" woke socialist nonsense I reckon."


Fantastic notions, one and all, though pursuant on the individual and not the state.

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AndyM Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 10:55pm

A certain degree, or even quite a bit of diversity is fantastic.
But surely there’s a limit - I don’t see that you can build cohesion on difference.

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AndyM Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 10:02am

Excellent article.

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thermalben Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 11:54am

Wow, what a read.

AndyM's picture
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AndyM Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 1:24pm

That article mentions a Bill Burr routine in Philidelphia.
Similarly, I'd love to see someone absolutely skewer hipsters.
Tell them to fuck right off.
Speaking of which, to that gormless fella on a mid-length single fin who got sent in around lunchtime - don't come back.
Take your pony tail and fuck off back to Noosa or wherever you're from and stay there.

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Island Bay Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 2:47pm

We need more detail, Mr Andy. Who, wot, why?

And bless Barry Humphries. What a brilliant man.

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AndyM Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 3:16pm

Just the same-old, I.B.
Two fellas jump off the rocks and sit on the inside.
There were a few raised eyebrows amongst the small but tight crew in the water but nothing was said.
The guy on the single fin proceeded to take the next three set waves, paddling inside each time, which considering the lengthy waits on a dying swell was not appreciated.
Crux came when one of the local crew paddled for a decent set wave. Single fin paddled inside with a smile on his face, took off with a smile on his face and took the high-line to block the local guy.
Local paddled-chased him and sent him in with threats of dental re-arrangement.
He's capable of doing it too.
So considering that it was a slow session, it was great entertainment.

Re: Barry Humphries article, I loved the summary -

"I think Australia should be the first English-speaking nation to stop saying “read the room.”
It’s a dictum for moral hacks – a philistine import from the same country that gave the world Springer.
It’s a recipe for dud art, a mantra for people who are afraid to think for themselves, and want the rest of us to stop thinking too."

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Island Bay Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 3:33pm

Shameless and clueless. What a shit combo.

Good to hear that someone had words with him.

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Solitude Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 6:31pm

Surprised it didn’t happen 2 waves earlier?

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tubeshooter Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 6:57pm

Agree. Not something you want to pull on locals.
A couple of locations in my area really lend themselves to that sort of behaviour. It blows me away how many tools think they can get away with it.
Ignorance, arrogance or a combination of both, you'll find yourself on the wrong side of the local pack very quickly here.

AndyM's picture
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AndyM Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 7:17pm

I think we were sitting there on a perfect Autumn day just thinking "fuck, could we really be bothered".

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bbbird Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 9:59pm

Thanks for the article Stu
"The whole history of worthwhile art was made by dogged individuals who followed the promptings of their own talents, and scorned the values of their time."

"Humphries was a kamikaze contrarian. He rigged things so that no fan, however devoted, could possibly endorse everything he ever said or did. "

Barry pushed the boundaries & highlighted Australian identity & humour overseas when we were still '2nd class' citizen of Britannia
Made a movie that was panned by all the critics called " The Adventures of Barry McKenzie (1972)"

eg. During the Hippy peace era... performed an Oz drinkin surf song

eg. Bagged out Psychiatry & metal Institutions attitudes of the day

& was an Australian Cultural Attaché (ambassador)

RIP Barry

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halleys-comet Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 11:03pm

Hi Stu, yes I agree with you, apologies for my sweeping condesending sentence. Once governments get involved, that can get out of control quickly. Individual and even local communities sure. And my apologies to Dan, I like and agree with the general thrust of your article, no need for me to nitpick.

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simsurf Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 6:58am

Not really. Equality of opportunity is vastly different to equity of outcome. In surfing terms, equality means say everyone has the opportunity to be a pro surfer, they can put in the effort, do the comps and if they are good enough they are rewarded. Equity says that anyone that wants to be a pro surfer can be a pro surfer, particularly if you are a minority, even if you can't stand up on a surfboard. It's leftist retard nonsense.

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stunet Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 7:16am

It means being fair and impartial.

Alternatively, it means having shares in a company.

Neither has anything to do with your narrow viewpoint.

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simsurf Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 7:31am

So quotas based on race at us colleges is equity and in your view is 'fair and impartial'? I think you need to check your definitions.

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stunet Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 7:35am

I have.

the quality of being fair and impartial.
"equity of treatment"
fair play
the value of the shares issued by a company.
"he owns 62% of the group's equity"

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simsurf Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 7:43am

What is Equity? The term “equity” refers to fairness and justice and is distinguished from equality: Whereas equality means providing the same to all, equity means recognizing that we do not all start from the same place and must acknowledge and make adjustments to imbalances.

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stunet Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 7:53am

Mate, I think you're reading a bit more into this then is warranted.

You said define it, and I did, from the most prominent place going, the dictionary. Now you're using the narrower definition of the term, as is used in the social sciences. I guess to vent for some pent up frustration you have. Go for a surf instead.

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mpeachy Thursday, 4 May 2023 at 9:03am

Quotas at colleges based on race, with no context, seems like rigging the playing field. In context, the playing field in the US is massively skewed against black people. The US is a democracy, but one where active steps have historically been taken to suppress the black vote and generally make it more difficult for black people to get ahead in life. When the playing field has been artificially skewed against one group, then I can't see any issue with artificially skewing it back the other way to level things up to some extent. The reality is that most people fear what is different, but once multiculturalism has become the norm (like most parts of Sydney) everyone just gets on with life and realises that every race has all types of people with good and bad qualities.

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BD Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 3:06pm

A friend of mine surfing snapper yesterday did a hard arm stall and got his arm hooked in a guys legrope - that has to be peak insanity. I just had a surf at a pretty empty beach break, nothing special but no hassle either. The quiet sessions still there but not at any of the points etc

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burleigh Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 4:51pm

haha that's fucked but also kinda funny

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BD Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 6:05pm

Haha true, ridiculous

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mowgli Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 3:09pm

I did an intern stint at 'bong HQ in the mid-oughts (or thereabouts then).... and there were staaaacks of people working that apparently didn't surf....but all were grinding out the hours to get Papa Merchant that sweet sweet coin of the realm.

So when we ask, why do they do this if it's not in their core constituents' interest... who is "they"? The assumption being they are also surfer and give af about anything other than sales targets and covering up enviro-socio "inconveniences" in the supply chain.

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frog Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 3:16pm

Required viewing for influencers and those influenced by influencers.

Men in grey suits can work in our favour- those in the boardroom not so much.

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Dx3 Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 3:58pm

I wouldn't say I wish I didn't surf, but sometimes I wonder if life would be better/easier/I could focus more if I didn't surf, as I'd spend less time agonizing over shit conditions, or when it's pumping I wouldn't concern myself over how to move things around in life to get out there as much as possible, and then not be shitty if I miss a good session. Dealing with crowds would not be of any concern unless I'm in traffic.

Life could be simpler. Ah well

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goofyfoot Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 4:03pm

I feel like I wrote this ha ha. Nailed it

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Yendor Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 5:51pm

+2 Haha! I sometimes wonder what I might have done with my life if I hadn't found surfing.

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Island Bay Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 7:06am

"I could've been a contender..."

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freeride76 Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 7:56am

Believe me mate, people find plenty of other things to stress about.

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Finnbob the terror Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 6:10am

I actually prefer going on a holiday where there is no surf. I find it way more relaxing.

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Goodwolf Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 8:27pm

Me too.
And I took that as a sign to relax, and only surf if I feel like it. I'll take my board if we are going to good waves, but I no longer sniff out the best waves of a bad lot in our city.
If it's causing me more stress than joy, then why bother?
If I feel compelled to do it, rather than love it, then why bother?
I think it was only 'identity' getting in the way.
Now who am I, if not a surfer? Fuck knows, but I am free to discover new ways to enjoy my time. Finding glide and flow in other places.

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pigdog Monday, 8 May 2023 at 8:52am

It's a good holiday method finbob the terror. I agree.

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Finnbob the terror Monday, 8 May 2023 at 9:20am

Non surf holidays with the whole family
Surf holidays with the ones who surf.

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walter-r-white Thursday, 4 May 2023 at 12:24pm

I would say from recent experience, a sabbatical from the surfing lifestyle if you will, life is better when you don't really care about the surf. I was a typical surf-obsessed junkie for years. I was probably making up for being a half-arsed surfer in my youth at an age where I now had the time, flexibilty and money to make the most of the coastal lifestyle. Always arranging my weeks, weekends etc to maximise time in the water.

I started to get bored in 2021 (with COVID-crowds) and in 2022 with La Nina, +SAM and -IOD the waves down south couldn't have been more shit. I decided in July last year that nah I'd see ya (the ocean) next autumn. Took 8 months off. The result is I'm no longer hooked. The surf addiction may keep you active and get you outdoors but I think it is psycologically unhealthy to be living with that desperation that all keen surfers can't even hide.

I'm back in the water these days, much less often though, with no real care or hunger. I enjoy the time spent in the water but something feels a little vain and man-childish about "frothing" over the surf. I don't want to fall into that mindset of "missing out". Thinking about sticking to my easier to schedule outdoor pursuits (which also don't come with a scaristy issue).

Jury is still out on the whole surfing thing but watching the sun rise whilst paddling around the ocean isn't a bad way to start the day.

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freeride76 Thursday, 4 May 2023 at 1:36pm

To be absolutely honest, I don't think surfers froth any harder about their pursuit than any other hobby which people love to do.
I know golfers way more "hard-core"about getting on the course than most surfers.
They are religious about their 9 holes during the week and 18 on the weekend and woe betide anything or anyone that gets in the way.

If you've found something you love to do in life and have the opportunity to do it, that's a blessing in my books.
You are one of the lucky ones.

Lots of people go through life never experiencing a passion- it's just a dull parade of days.

Certainly not psychologically unhealthy.

Especially if you can balance it out with the rest of your life which most lifelong surfers end up being able to do.

(not having a go, just responding to your thought provoking comment)

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Tooold2bakook Thursday, 4 May 2023 at 6:59pm

Thought provoking indeed. I sometime think that the whole appeal of surfing is to orient your life around something other than the rat race. I think that's one of the reasons surfing sells - it appeals to those disaffected by the rat race.

But this comment made me think that it's possible to over correct and replace the rat race with a surf race. Maybe I'm doing that to some extent.

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stunet Friday, 5 May 2023 at 7:38am

Maybe it's that the prospect of good surf is unknown and random, could happen anytime and therefore surfers are on a permanent war footing of scouting and expectation. Whereas golf (and soccer and mtb and...and...) can be planned in advance so the rest of your life can be compartmentalised too.

Around the turn of the century I was running a print business and employed a graphic designer about the same age as me. Committed raver and DJ, cut plenty of his own tunes, and ran on days long dopamine highs - albeit artificially inflated. Meanwhile, I was working my way to the top of the pecking order at the local point, swooped on the big V whenever it broke, and same goes Solander, though much more tentatively.

If it pumped in the morning, I'd come to work sunny and talking twenty to the dozen. If the surf picked up through the day, I'd race through work and bail midday to intercept it.

One day while working together, my graphic designer employee piped up all earnestly and made a statement that in effect matched yours above: "You're lucky to have found something that you love to do."

One of those unexpected moments that cause you to reflect on your life, and make for some perspective rearrangement.

You gonna grumble about the tide when that sentiment is running fresh through your mind?

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freeride76 Friday, 5 May 2023 at 8:11am

Totally agree except I think the permanent war footing is a little over-stated.

Most places with reasonably consistent surf it's pretty easy these day to put a few x's down and shoot for one or two through the week without too much disruption to daily life.

In other words, it's easy to live life as a surfer, get enough waves to be stoked and go about your normal life making a living, raising a family etc etc without massive disruption.

I see it all the time, I'm surrounded by it. Guys and gals with businesses, families, spouses etc etc who maintain active surfing lives and are the better for it.

Sure, surfing needs to drift down the priority list at times through life- but most people seem to manage that easily enough.

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tiger Friday, 5 May 2023 at 11:22am

Yep. I surf 1-2 times a week and find it's enough to sate my surf hunger and keep surf fitness at a good level, whilst maintaining other responsibilities. Luckily live in a zone where crowds aren't an issue, so don't suffer from that form of surf angst.
Still get the occasional FOMO though. Despite having multiple great surfs over the last few weeks, I was wigging out the other day, just triggered by the atmospheric conditions. Just the offshore breeze, temperature, smell in the air, colour of the light was setting off all these synapses in my brain, the correlation of peak conditions.

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Island Bay Friday, 5 May 2023 at 2:36pm

It's very satisfying to find a good, suitable balance.

Where I used to live, you had to be patient, dialled in, looking at the weather for minute wind shifts. And there'd be two-week flat spells, as in couldn't even stand up on a 10ft longboard flat. But there were very satisfying solo days at heavy reefs, or sunny, glassy days with two mates. It kept you going, but it did mean being constantly on alert.

I now live in a very very consistent area, and it has meant that I completely relax and am happy to miss good days. Ah well, there'll be others, is the thought.

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AndyM Friday, 5 May 2023 at 4:28pm

I spent a good few years working around the world on boats, and surfing pretty much ceased to exist.
Funny how the more time I spent on the water, the further I got away from waves.
The best I could do was whatever was on offer, whether it was snow skiing (a really good substitute), swimming and free diving, martial arts training or just going for a run. Some places had all of the above but some had very little - I spent a winter in norther Germany and the only thing physical outdoor activity was going for a run through the snow each night, which started about 4pm.
I learnt to push surfing to the side but christ it was a treat when I got on a board, even if it was in a wave starved backwater like Italy, Seychelles or an inward-facing island in the Caribbean.
These days I still have a variety of interests but surfing is in the top two and the other one complements surfing anyway.
But I don't let it rule my life.
Yeah there's that empty sad feeling when it's pumping and you don't have the time to surf or the crowd is just too hectic, but there's always tomorrow.

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walter-r-white Friday, 5 May 2023 at 3:03pm

Ha - maybe I just know too many surfers and not enough golfers.

Not denying a passion is a good thing, the more pointless and purely for joy the better. I just seem to see too many blokes being half-arsed dads and half-arsed partners/husbands because of wave FOMO.

Island Bay's picture
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Island Bay Friday, 5 May 2023 at 3:08pm

Could it be that they are half-arsed dads/husbands first, and surfing is one of their vehicles? There are a lot of useless people out there.

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hamishbro Saturday, 13 May 2023 at 7:42am

100% !

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Plasticspastic Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 4:23pm

danob awesome thought piece, Living and surfing on the Gold coast for the last 25 years I have seen it go from busy to something out of your worst nightmares, with the superbank (and indeed it is super) crowds more akin to maggots feeding on a rotting gangerous fleshwound...
this classic juxtaposition happens in other sports/activities too however, I will never forget the images of people being dragged, or climbing over, other dead or slower mountaineer's at the Hillary step on the way to climb Everest.. too many people, everything has been invaded.

Solitude's picture
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Solitude Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 4:28pm

I’ve got mates who surf really well and live very close to world class east coast point breaks that just don’t surf them anymore. They are young, fit and skilled enough but just can’t do it to themselves.

I’m the same hence the moniker.

It’s a shame that those of us who like the quiet and solitude are pretty much confined to beachies and less thought of (read less quality) outposts. Our choice though.

I think the biggest influence on current crowds is social media. Not just the ads, IG clips etc, the real time group messaging and posting of conditions to the masses.

Who likes surfing with more than a couple of their friends anyway?

tyzee63's picture
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tyzee63 Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 7:48pm

I'm the same, this is the best strategy for managing and keeping one's surf experience still enjoyable enough.

memlasurf's picture
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memlasurf Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 4:48pm

Not really a problem in colder water and beach breaks which are fickle but uncrowded if you keep an eye on them- meaning you have to put the time in. Warm water + point breaks = super dooper crowds and was always going to end in tears because it is so easy and fun.

EdP's picture
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EdP Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 5:33pm

Companies represent surfers? They represent their shareholders (surfers or not). Just like any other company

tubeshooter's picture
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tubeshooter Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 5:46pm

Somehow, I think we've all had even the tiniest influence on increased crowds,
Hard to just blame one group.

I think the whole thing really started taking off after professional surfers wanted the sports image to be sanitised and cleansed of it's less than healthy looking lifestyle. Pros and co wanted more prizemoney and to be seen as legitimate athletes in a legitimate sport.. The rest of the surfing population didn't care about that.
So the ASP/WSL , surf companies and surf media all fostered and promoted the image of clean fit, socially acceptable athletes.

The next thing was mobile phones and then came the internet. Webcams , forecasts, clips of anywhere and everywhere to wet the appetite and then , unfortunately, social media came along..

So, it would seem to me that the root of all this evil is the love of money. And surfers are just as guilty as the corporations in my view.

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walter-r-white Friday, 5 May 2023 at 3:07pm

As a kid in the 90's surfers did seem to have some kind of bad rep. Like it was a past time of degerates or something. Definitely not Olympic athletes.

I think the internet probabl killed surfing - i.e. surf spot directories etc. Then social media deficated on its corpse.

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Surfalot67 Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 5:57pm

As a Snapper local, and after an epic Easter down the coast with classic waves and no crew, I just couldn't do this last swell. With the WSL set up taking place and every fuckwit with a sticker in the water, it was a total shit fight, even for a seasoned Cooly surfer. On top of this an insane amount of Brazilian and Japanese hangers, all with new sharp eyes and mayhems but no fucking clue about surfing - it's just too much. Not sure what it will take, but it's not sustainable at this level of crowd. I know I know it's always been crowded on the GC, but this is nuts

tubeshooter's picture
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tubeshooter Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 6:06pm

That first party wave photo is a cracker.
Don't know whether to laugh or cry.

rooftop's picture
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rooftop Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 7:34pm

Classic tragedy of the commons. Increased demand outstripping the limited, communal supply. It's in everyone's personal interests to surf, but if we all pursue those interests, we all lose.
The only solution we've ever found is to impose rules. Which works fine for, say, allocation of mineral resources, but rather tends to suck the fun out of something defined by its sense of freedom.

Surfing is unusual among sports in that it has that dependency. In most other sports you can always build another court, another field. As demand grows, so grows supply, and the experience generally improves.

Surfers have tended to be aware of this conundrum, and mitigated the exploitation of their resources by protecting secret spots, enforcing a pecking order and so on. But NO tragedy of the commons rules apply to surf companies and those who exploit surfing's image for their own gain. They will not see diminishing returns until surfing goes out of fashion, which, due to its inherent aesthetics and general awesomeness, is hard to imagine happening any time soon. Crowded lineups are good for business, and the grumblings of surfers like us are a minor externality.

In an even crueller irony, the better surfers - the middle of the curve - are the most likely put off by conditions like those in the image at the top, while beginners are likely to swarm in obliviously.

As a society we have gotten better at recognising when people or demographics, such as women, are being exploited in advertising, and have started to work against it. So do we, as surfers and guardians of the ocean (doesn't that sound grand) need to stop being flattered by seeing ourselves on billboards and start to object when we and our sport are being exploited? I can't really see that flying.

"I speak for the trees," said the Lorax, "for the trees have no tongues." Who speaks for the waves?

Or maybe we should all be working on giving surfing an image problem, telling everyone it's dangerous, boring and hard. Either way, that first photo is enough to put me off.

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stunet Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 7:40pm

Great comment, mate.

Surfalot67's picture
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Surfalot67 Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 8:11pm

Nailed it, thanks. My angry rant made obsolete instantly

Stok's picture
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Stok Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 8:12pm

'Who speaks for the waves?'

I love going to my quiet local and watching unridden waves. So much better than seeing the black dots of surfers scattered all over a surf break.

We have so many incredibly beautiful coastlines and set ups here in Aus, they're pretty much ruined by the crowds of surfers that are on them.

I reckon you're on to something there.

mike oxhard's picture
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mike oxhard Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 9:45pm

well said mate, sometimes not even money is the motivator, a growing number of people will gladly piss in their own pocket for a 5 minutes of internet fame

bonza's picture
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bonza Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 10:15pm

Exactly. Just stop it. Fck your constant emo validation needs and pissweak insecurities. Get some help.

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bonza Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 10:16pm


mike oxhard's picture
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mike oxhard Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 5:08pm

I mean it's a free country after all, just disappointing when that one special snowflake decides that their ego stroking and self validation is more important than protecting something much bigger than themselves.

Island Bay's picture
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Island Bay Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 5:23am

Good post, rooftop.

The question is how to stop the 'Surf Companies' from screwing everybody over, apart from not buying their crap. That's obviously not enough, as very few of us normal surfers (apologies for speaking for more than myself) wear 'surf' clothes.

flow's picture
flow's picture
flow Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 8:15pm

Snow skiing has a similar problem albeit not as bad. Last season Perisher was the most crowded I'd seen it (even on weekdays). It was also about $210 a lift ticket. It will be interesting to see how crowded it is this year. Tickets have gone up to around $240 a day. Maybe this will be a tipping point but I thought that last year.

Dx3's picture
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Dx3 Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 8:54pm

I agree $240 a day sounds cooked for a lift ticket, $200 last year did too. Then you realise it’s $90-$100 for 55 minutes at Urbnsurf, so $7-8 per wave.

And for about 7-8 months of the year most of it is booked out most days.. So people keep paying it.

Island Bay's picture
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Island Bay Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 5:25am

Possibly the only thing that's cheaper in NZ. $240 - far canal!

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dandandan Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 10:07pm

"Are the companies and organisations that represent surfing now working against surfers' interests?"

Yes. It's a very simple answer at it's core, though obviously there's lots of interesting things to talk about around the edges of it.

Companies exist to make money, regardless of what else they wax lyrical about along the way. Most of the big surf companies are publicly traded and exist to make shareholders wealthier than when they bought in. There is nothing special about surf capitalism that exempts it from everything else that is shit about capitalism. There are various scales of it and it is possible to have surf commerce without surf capitalism, but none of the problems we face are that different to anything else.

This is at the lower end of the scales, but it is the most infuriatingly hilarious thing when retired surf shop millionaires, surfing school owners, and surf resort personalities whinge about how much more crowded it is these days given their role in it all.

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PCS PeterPan Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 10:36pm

Commit , paddle as hard as required , and start yelling at em ! Works a treat and does two things .
One - you probably will get the wave unhindered
Two - lets everyone out there know your not out there for an existential surfing experience prior to your massage/yoga session .
Dunno about everyone else on this thread but when I grew up surfing , loudly claiming you had priority was essential. There were many other standard behaviours that kept order out there.

Surfing the insta famous breaks is done , gone -over . Unless you can bear the frustration of dealing with people who for whatever reason keep getting inside you or, the kooks,hipsters,learners,serial drop-in ers etc etc .
Surfing was probably always going to become crazy crowded . I have tried windsurfing,kite-boarding,wake-boarding even water-ski racing. None of them come close to surfing good in good waves .
The reasons for how it got to this are many . Just don't let it get to you .
Paddle hard and yell . Then paddle back out with a big grin on ya face ...........

steverubysdad's picture
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steverubysdad Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 10:50pm

I’m one of the three older gents in the clubby speedos - we had a great time, got some nice waves off the end section, had a great view of the chargers getting barrelled, didn’t see a problem. Seemed to be plenty of waves for everyone from where I was. A perception issue?

Lanky Dean's picture
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Lanky Dean Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 11:03pm

We just topped 8 billion people on earth last November 2022.

Pretty strange time to complain about crowding seems inevitable

Most competent lifers still get waves, fascinating read none the less, personally I don't do Insta or socials, so I only see surfing or articles of I actively look.

Find me some time to go surfing is where I'm at in life.

jedi old mate's picture
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jedi old mate Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 11:09pm

Interesting write up.
It is what you make of it and things are never going to return to what they once were. I think it’s been abundantly clear that from the beginning the surfing industry as well as surfing’s governing bodies havent represented the interests of everyday surfers and in a capitalist society why should we expect them to? As surfers we like to think our past time is unique and pure but at the end of the day everything comes back to the $$.
What would a surfing industry that serves everyday surfers even look like and how would that be executed without over-regulation and government overreach?
It’s easy to be cynical about the decay of surf culture but it doesn’t mean that the ‘industry’ has to tarnish your surfing experience as it is a detached entity. If you can duck when others weave and have the luxury of mid week surfs it’s not hard to have peak moments away from the cacophony and stench of surf consumerism.
Just had a buffet of beach break barrels with minimal interference from other surfers the past few days on NNSW. The cup is definitely half full if you ask me!

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juegasiempre Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 12:27am

I had the luxury of mid week surfs in NNSW and I was always blown away by how many people were in the water.

jedi old mate's picture
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jedi old mate Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 11:12pm

‘No such thing as a professional surfer, they just work in advertising.
Can’t remember who said it but great quote i remember reading somewhere.

Standingleft's picture
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Standingleft Tuesday, 2 May 2023 at 11:13pm

everyone wants to be us

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juegasiempre Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 12:26am

Meh. It's everywhere in the world in 2023, at least my experience in Australia, Indo, South and Central America over the last couple of years. Forecasting sites make it worse, no doubt, as when there's a swell, there's people. The irony being because they're not putting in the time on the 2-3ft days, when there's a swell they just get in the way.

I don't surf the best waves around me anymore because they have the most people. I settle for regular crowded b grade points and beachies when small. What can you do?

Also I hate the mentality that 'just one wave makes it worth it'. It just doesn't at all make it worth it.

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benjis babe Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 6:53am

covid really fucked surfing, it use to work really well..the early crew were the workers, I would wait till 8.30/ 9, let them have their fill. then there would literally be no one til lunch, and then the late crew after work.....now everyone works from home..and now there are always learners out there who are middle aged, or retired cashed up with no fucking idea and chicks out of control....

Surfalot67's picture
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Surfalot67 Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 7:46am

Agreed BB. The initial lock down was awesome, just the actual locals in the water, was like the 80's with blue bird days and great waves. Then they opened up the travel to exercise allowance, gave all the kooks $750 to spend on a Chinese pop-out from SW and its was game over. Hasn't recovered since

velocityjohnno's picture
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velocityjohnno Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 11:00am

Totally. RIP gentleman's hour. This is why it's so important that work from office becomes a thing again - not just to save the commercial RE industry.

Dx3's picture
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Dx3 Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 11:31am

That's a big no from me VJ... let us never return to 5 days in the office (selfishly speaking)! Although I do laugh to myself when I pull into winki carpark at 10am when ditching work and see all the cars, then mutter, 'doesn't anyone work these days...'

velocityjohnno's picture
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velocityjohnno Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 11:39am

I'm playing the misanthrope, it is what it is. I saw a Goldman report recently that suggested AI will remove about 300 million highly paid white collar jobs in the US and EU in coming years - get ready for it! Surf is going to be insaner.

Also not mentioned in topic is how it's affected board design, there's been a Foam Arms Race (TM) as we all get more foam to outpaddle each other. This has corrected for the 1990s anorexia, and then some.

Dx3's picture
Dx3's picture
Dx3 Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 11:56am

Nice trademark, fully agree and would be lying to myself if I said I haven't joined the arms race. Having a lot more fun with more foam too so can't see myself changing back anytime soon

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simsurf Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 7:07am

Lived on the gold coast for twenty years. I ride my log even it's four foot and under, and do photos/video when it's big and crowded like last week. Some of the drop ins I saw were fucking horrendous. And of course sites like this one an surfline have to shoulder some of the blame for the crowds.

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benjis babe Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 7:49am

why do u blame swellnet etc..love to hear your reasoning

Solitude's picture
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Solitude Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 6:48pm

Swellnet are not to blame but certainly a contributor. No one could guess as to how small or large but they have 127 cams streaming the surf around this fine country.

They provide people with an excellent forecast telling you exactly what the swell and wind will be doing on any given day.

Don’t get me wrong they provide a great service to those subscribing but as if sites like this and surfline aren’t influencers of crowds in some part.

shraz's picture
shraz's picture
shraz Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 7:19pm

so you surf when it's four ft and under, what do you do with the photos/video of four ft and over?

drodders's picture
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drodders Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 7:10am

I love winter and a long walk - ahh peak to myself

peabo's picture
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peabo Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 9:57am

If you don't mind cold water and average waves, there's plenty of uncrowded surf sessions to be had.

velocityjohnno's picture
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velocityjohnno Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 11:02am

But it's cold and ew, and it doesn't barrel, and you freeze in your van and it's just nasty, why even bother when you can surf near Tropical Fruit World.

martin strom's picture
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martin strom Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 10:07am

We need wave pools in Brisbane the Gold Coast ballina and Coffs harbour I would buy some shares it would be a solid investment

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 11:43am

What returns would you be expecting?

KARIO's picture
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KARIO Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 11:36am

"In a traditional sport like soccer or netball, increased participation rates in the activity don't affect the ability of an individual to enjoy the activity. These sports take place within static parameters, so no matter how many people sign up to play, a soccer game, for example, will always only involve 22 players on the field for a 90 minute period. The experience remains the same regardless of increased participation rates in the sport overall."

Yes and No. Friend moved to Europe, teenage kids playing basketball, teams size changed from 7/8 people to 15, A-team plays, B-team seats on the bench, C-team train only, watch the game.
In short too many kids wanting to play, only the best AND most motivated get to play the game.
BTW one of the kids was really good and made the A team, only to give up the next year as environment far too competitive = NOT FUN.
Suppose the 8 billions people comment has some relevance.

Still feeling lucky to have options between crowded perfect points and average beaches most days.

garyg1412's picture
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garyg1412 Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 1:07pm

The opposite to this storyline could be "No One Somewhere Sometimes"
It's possible. You just need freezing cold water, closet meteorologist skills (thanks Swellnet), the ability to drive long distances in a day and the skills of a mountain goat!!!

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 5:05pm

Was about to write the same thing. If everyone is everywhere, all at once, there is always somewhere, with NCO offering the yang to the yin.

stunet's picture
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stunet Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 5:46pm


garyg1412's picture
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garyg1412 Thursday, 4 May 2023 at 1:48pm

Yep there's a cold water Cloudbreak where five is a crowd somewhere out there!!!

theblacksheep's picture
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theblacksheep Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 7:02pm

I never thought I’d give up shortboarding but I did for another wave craft
Akin to the clubbie Speedo guys approach.
The most liberating thing ever. Removed all scarcity and brought pure stoke back. Like seeing the matrix. It’s actually comical to me seeing the sheep but I understand it’s simply a scarcity created issue.
I tried surfing snapper for old times sake during this swell and the instant anger, ego and entitlement flooded back. I hated myself. Is there shortboarders anonymous for when you fall of the wagon? I needed a meeting.
There are solutions out there if you can let your ego handle it. Age helps.
Ask yourself Tiny Dancer if that little wiggle in the pocket will be your legacy

RockyIsland's picture
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RockyIsland Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 7:14pm

I aways get my best uncrowded waves when SN says its 2/10.
Mind you I don't surf A grade waves much anymore and avoid crowds like the plague.
Surfed a well known national park beach break last Sunday just me and my son out and scored epic waves all afternoon not another surfer in sight.
I have a range of craft that suits the B and C grade and novelty waves I frequent and turns them into a fun park.
Get a lot of solo sessions under 2 foot and over 6 foot.
Modern/Retro board design together with knowledge of tide heights , swell direction and wind behaviour and waves within waves is giving me some of the most enjoyable sessions of my 50 years surfing.
I approach my surfing laterally these days.
90% of surfers think and act the same way and are easily led by surf reports/forecasts and where its hip to surf.
Some breaks down here don't get surfed nearly as much as they did in the 70s and 80s.
Think outside the box and you will have some fun and solitude.

freeride76's picture
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freeride76 Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 7:35pm

Hear, hear RI.

Island Bay's picture
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Island Bay Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 7:45pm

Very similar to my approach. Works very well here, and where I used to live and surf.

velocityjohnno's picture
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velocityjohnno Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 9:13pm

Absolutely. Thanks for this post.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 4 May 2023 at 5:58am

100% The amount of uncrowded to empty surfs I've had in the last month has been crazy. There are also others where it's been insanely busy but then you've just got to be smarter, fitter and more savvy.

runriver's picture
runriver's picture
runriver Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 7:52pm

It's just a result of CAPITALism. It has no limit and destroys everything it touches. We can only wait for Climate Change to change it and put a cap on it because our socio-political and economical systems are completely contaminated with greed.

Spicoli's picture
Spicoli's picture
Spicoli Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 8:32pm

Now let's talk about how a 60,000 year old culture feels about getting dropped in on.

velocityjohnno's picture
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velocityjohnno Saturday, 6 May 2023 at 11:22pm

Excellent link! Note a couple of themes in construction, and there's even diagrams of harvesting the bark, and heating it to form shape.

bbbird's picture
bbbird's picture
bbbird Wednesday, 3 May 2023 at 10:29pm

Young guy with a brand new board turned up on the weekend in the carpark. He was going to go out at this 4ft overcrowded spot.
I said "dont play in the traffic" come out to this empty 4-6ft peak with me... so he does...
he paddled for the first wave of every set, fell off, paddled through the break, blocked my line onto some really good waves, took off on the shoulder as Im taking off, etc.

Some people have no f'n idea...

I still got a few good ones though

tubeshooter's picture
tubeshooter's picture
tubeshooter Thursday, 4 May 2023 at 5:33am

Step right up ladies and gentlemen.
Sure, there's some big prizes to be won at Snapper, but chances are you're going to get skunked by the carny folk.

peabo's picture
peabo's picture
peabo Thursday, 4 May 2023 at 9:49am

This video is hilarious. The waves look great, but it barely looks worth the effort. Wouldn't you just constantly be preparing yourself to be dropped in on? Feel like it would be a more frustrating than fun experience.

greyhound's picture
greyhound's picture
greyhound Thursday, 4 May 2023 at 8:15am

I recon these snakes must say to themselves. Well they dropped in on the other person so I can now do it to him/ her. And so it goes.
I’m Surprised no one tackles.

Ash's picture
Ash's picture
Ash Thursday, 4 May 2023 at 11:23am

The human traffic jam at Snapper is beyond critical, beyond my comprehension. Any therapeutic benefits from going surfing would be cancelled with frustration and anger left in its place. Glad I stayed here, mediocre waves but plenty of space.

Nik Zanella's picture
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Nik Zanella Friday, 5 May 2023 at 5:10am

Great piece.. I’m happy I managed to surf uncrowned spots a lot during my life.

frog's picture
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frog Friday, 5 May 2023 at 7:39am

Despite the crowds, Gold Coast surfers are spoiled for choice. Miles and miles of beachbreaks, multiple point breaks with enough consistency and randomness to allow average punters to get lots of good surf if they hunt about and pick their days.

But more than ever before the crowd at the points surges to extreme levels like clockwork once the eyeballs, cameras, forecasts and texts get the word out that it is high quality and you must surf otherwise you will be the loser who "missed out". FOMO, FOMO, FOMO is your enemy.

The pain on the perfect days is being so close to paradise yet so far away.

Check out the Perth or SA cameras day to day to see how some less fortunate live.

hamishbro's picture
hamishbro's picture
hamishbro Saturday, 13 May 2023 at 11:09am

You mean miles and miles of double bar close outs, most of the time, unless you get the perfect sized east swell. I prefer the more permanent kelp / reef structure of the beach breaks in the southern states (with obvious man made exceptions which relate only to the break walls - but those are often overcrowded).

Courtney Dalton's picture
Courtney Dalton's picture
Courtney Dalton Friday, 5 May 2023 at 2:25pm

Yes Dan, very well articulated.
A few of us have started sailing again..
It may not offer the blissful highs that surfing can, however it doesn't drag you into the frustrations that surfing also does. When you turn up to race everyone is stoked to have another boat to race against. Great to be flying over the water with spray flying.. onshore-offshore is no difference..
Great time with your mates..
I suppose, like the old days surfing in a way.
There are other ways to enjoy the magic of wind, waves and water.
Now just waiting for the seabreeze to (hopefully) kick in.. the line ups empty... I'm out there!!!

melvik's picture
melvik's picture
melvik Friday, 5 May 2023 at 2:47pm

I'm rubbish at crowd surfing. I'll go small and a bit crap to avoid crowds. Last surf was solo. Mind you it was low tide and small but not takers. I got a few - hit a rock and broke a fin but it was good enough to say I had a great sess.

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Johknee Friday, 5 May 2023 at 5:33pm
Wandi's picture
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Wandi Friday, 5 May 2023 at 6:06pm

We must be really proud of handing over the state of surfing the way it is to our children

Dx3's picture
Dx3's picture
Dx3 Friday, 5 May 2023 at 7:38pm

Fuck me, that’s as bad as I’ve seen Snapper. What the hell was that all about?! If that was common place where I surfed I just wouldn’t do it anymore.

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Saturday, 6 May 2023 at 6:33am

Who was that goofy footer at the start?! Wtf is wrong with him, deserves a broken nose

lostdoggy's picture
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lostdoggy Sunday, 7 May 2023 at 11:41am
rj1611's picture
rj1611's picture
rj1611 Saturday, 6 May 2023 at 8:27am

Oh hahahaha...jesus F$%#! I had anxiety just watching , let alone being out there.

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Saturday, 6 May 2023 at 11:26pm

poor blighter at 0:58 has not one, but two separate drop ins lmao

Wandi's picture
Wandi's picture
Wandi Friday, 5 May 2023 at 6:00pm

As humans we are really good at destroying things.
Surfing is just another example
The key to surfing these days is to have other interests that we enjoy doing with our time. To stop being one dimensional/boring in our pursuits
People say hit the road and go chase uncrowded waves but for the most part that’s just another marketing lie
The surf travel game has also become a congested f..up. Good for local tourism dollar but that’s about it
Travel half way around the world to surf any name place to surf with 100 new friends
I surf for fun and if it doesn’t look like fun I’d rather go do something else
A lot of people have also got to get out of the gotta get wet mentality and learn to drive away when it’s a bedlam. Go do something else
That’s why imo wave pools are pretty much the only solution
That’s my rant

truebluebasher's picture
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truebluebasher Saturday, 6 May 2023 at 2:03am

2019 -2021 : 196,000 extra Surfers (2nd fastest growing Oz sport to Basketball)
As Dan alludes to...Yes! Overwhelming majority of Blowins are women...growing fast to 30% of crew.
Surfing's ugly Step Sister Skater Gurlz helped Olympic Ideal of 102,000 extra cruizers!
Outdoor Sports 15 > 21% > Beach 34 > 42%
However! Pools went Backward so too did Kidz Sport & Clubs...
(Rich Chix Covid Seachange) Wealthiest $200,000yr surf most to low income $40,000 surf least.
Surfing is fast becoming #1 VIP sport for the Rich & Famous! (Ski Aspen fly Lear Jet to Byron airbnb!)

Chix Rule...Oz women are putting off Childbirth & thereby less healthy to do so each year.
Govts worldwide throw everything & anything to keep Women fertile.
Free Girls Only Surfing Lessons with accommodating Softies fits perfectly!

Yes! Women & Disabled get up to 6 free Surf lessons & if deprived, get a free surfboard!
Here's a few examples of how they roll this out + any Hidden Detail add ons!

Govt fund Surfing Australia that align Billabong-Roxy > Ripcurl

Jan 2020 : Oz Govt $500,000 Women & Waves (Shore Thing) presented by Roxy
AIS Layne trained 14 Surf/Yoga Mentors at HPC.
Each Mentor coached up to 50 Women to chill at 14 beaches
Each woman was gifted a Roxy Tote Bag - (Possibly Yoga Mat / Poncho)
Of interest is Steph rocked up at Layne's Goldie Visit!
(Note that was broken up Jan -Pre (Covid Wave) Post Nov 2020)

Nov 2021-June 2032 'Get her Onboard' presented by Roxy + SDS
AIS Chelsea Hedges from HPC
NSW Govt funded 600 Chix Free Surf [L] by 10 Surf Schools or joining 10 Boardrider Clubs
Using Vid proof of hitting 20-30 targets per session...(No crowded Sister's Surf Rage > No Pay!)

Here's the dirt on Dan's Harem...
Feb -Dec 2023 (Booked Out) 'Surf Sisters' presented by Ripcurl / Urbnsurf
Qld Govt bankrolls 1,600 Surf Chix to BYO weapon for 12 Free wkly Surf Lessons
As with NSW deal but all Qld Chix gotta sign up to one of 9 SEQ / 45 Qld Boardrider Clubs
Sunny 4 clubs + Goldie 5 Clubs (Again > That's a lot of Chix crammed into the SEQ Mix)
Ripcurl Tote Bag has Cap & Poncho maybe / other...but...big but...Here's the catch! (Fine Print)
tbb thinks either half the Lessons or at least the add on lessons are 'Free' via Online Coach?
Now this is vitally important...Sisters gotta listen to what tbb is saying...(Carefully!)
Lets say 4/12 wks = Month Online Free > but More than 1 month (5wks+) online costs $150
Yes! Be warned that Ripcurl / Urbnsurf are not upfront...see next...
Ripcurl /Urbnsurf { Surf Better Now } Can we bring that up tbb...coz that sounds suss!
Scroll down to T&C [ 13.1] "If we grant you a Free Trial Subscription (Tick!) & you don't Cancel...."
Crew know how the rest goes...Your Arse is ours until Next Billing Cycle & if you time yer pre 72hr Exit.
Now see how important yer (Surf Better Now) Billing Cycle is > 4 weeks (Free) or 5 weeks $150.(Now!)
Qld Govt / Qld Surfing / Surf Mobsters are fleecing 1,600 Qldurr Sisters right thru to Xmas 2023...
Once Surf Sisters blowin into the Clubs...reckon the Locals Only Kook Clubbies will be shown the door!

Oct 2022-May 2023 (Current Dates + more sessions ahead)
'Surf Her Way' (Not Free) presented by Ripcurl / Urbnsurf Launch Vid
Although 'not free' Victoria are bundling similar Surf Brand / Urbnsurf Women's Surf Coaching
These links include a 2030 Vic Chix mission Paper of Sorts...includes Chix Surf Day / Join current Clubs
20 sessions over 4 beaches Ripcurl Prize Pack / Voucher
[L] 5 Week Groups + Intermediate /Advanced one on one!

'This Girl Can' + $100,000 Indigenous Surfing Program 50% Women / YMCA Girls Surf Camp


Dan mentioned NDIS Surf Sessions
Sunny Coast Salty Souls offers 6 wk Surf Lessons + Free Start up Pack / Surfboard

WOW offer Mental sufferers Free 6 week Surf Therapy Session lessons / 6 Free Wave Pool Sessions
Extends to Free Women's Health / LGBTIQIA+ / Migrant-Reffos / Indigenous / Sessions

tbb has Disabilities + Card + Passed the Mental Ward Drug Test...
Paid 3 Physios fortnightly & only managed the One Wave in 4 years.
tbb thinks he could make that Urbnsurf Lineup to liven up their Pool Party!

Bodybashin' in a Wave Pool would fast free up tbb's dead hands & reawaken some spirit.
However! Can never happen!
Urbnsurf bans Natural Surfing Therapy > hugging or playing with our Waves is against the Law!
Urbnsurf Caveat : "We only allow Fully Vaxed Handplanes at The Point!"

Wave Park operators are fuckin' mental...Only bashers can liven up yer Toxic Slab Pool Party...like durr!

tbb needs to free his hands while surfing not become more disabled strapped to a Handplane Caveat!
Roary's special playdate would die of boredom...feeling so lifeless with a handplane up me arse!
Advice from a Mental Basher...piss yer pool toys off so someone, anyone can surf yer concrete crab pot!

Urbnsurf: 'We mandate for tbb to be strapped down for an hour of Roary's beastly slab rehab!'

lickwid's picture
lickwid's picture
lickwid Saturday, 6 May 2023 at 9:49am

Button your shirt back up mate, your wife beater is showing.

truebluebasher's picture
truebluebasher's picture
truebluebasher Saturday, 6 May 2023 at 3:30pm

What has promoting Women's Surfing & Mental Health got to do with Wife Beating.
Never laid a hand on Kidz / Woman / Man...

tbb was merely stating how natural surfing is forbidden in Wave Pools & Lineups...
tbb is the one being Banned / told to Fuck off / abused & hit 100x over for simply surfing naturally!
Been knocked out for over a year by Grom who keel hauled tbb across snapper.
Doc was shocked by that leashed, barbed assault! He asked wot could do such injury.

How does this continued soul destroying physical abuse upon tbb come across as wife beating...
Not even been married for 20 years & brought up the kids as a single Parent.
Must tbb say...it was not he that was abusing / Beating / Cheating...nor condone such...ever!

tbb was simply asking for a simple Human Right to Pay for / or freely surf a wave as others here.
Fighting for that basic right is a losing battle...that simple right is stripped away more each day!
Banned & kicked outta every known Goldie break several times over...now these Wave Pool bans!
What has society got against naturally free surfing a wave, why is that so alarming to boardriders!
Crew talk about Surf Rage...but for us Basherz that starts with bans, abuse & attacks as norm!

As stated...tbb is well disabled & has no strength to even clench a fist or open hands fully.
Pains too much to fiddle with buttons...not joking...that takes a good while & for good reason!
As said...Fiddling thru Huey's Drawers brings tremendous relief & restores health...Is that a crime?

Sorry to Women / Wives / Crew / Surfers if tbb has misrepresented The rise of Women's Surfing!

lickwid is welcome to any or all of tbb's many 1,000's of confiscated waves...

tbb's charitable WOTD ~~~~^~~~~/~~~~/`~~~~/\~~~~/|~~~~/(`~~~~/(C....../(C`[lickwid)

truebluebasher's picture
truebluebasher's picture
truebluebasher Saturday, 6 May 2023 at 4:40pm

Hurts pretty bad...that comment does!
As someone on a disability support pension & very thankful to all here...
Quite a good amount $1,000's over many years is given back to Domestic Violence Families.
Australian Childhood Foundation / KidzWish / Next Steps / PCYC / Hospital Foundation / Lifeline.
These organizations often thank tbb for dedicated support & donations & occasionally ask why!
Simply say that our Family suffered Domestic Violence...

The Wife Beating bully remark sickens tbb & undermines supportive charitable work.
No DV organisation would harbour a branded wife beater...
DV Foundations would never believe for a minute that tbb was such...so where does that leave us.
Does tbb pass the phone to the Troll...perhaps explain why tbb has to withdraw support!
Maybe someone else will step in & step up the Campaign against DV...can't imagine who!

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Saturday, 6 May 2023 at 5:53pm

Don’t lose sleep over a stupid comment tbb, all on here know you’re a good egg. Don’t stress

icandig's picture
icandig's picture
icandig Saturday, 6 May 2023 at 6:29pm


Island Bay's picture
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Island Bay Saturday, 6 May 2023 at 6:42pm

And thirded :-)

zenagain's picture
zenagain's picture
zenagain Saturday, 6 May 2023 at 6:57pm

fourthed and fifthed.

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Saturday, 6 May 2023 at 7:44pm

Mate you just do you tbb. No one thinks anything like that.

Remigogo's picture
Remigogo's picture
Remigogo Saturday, 6 May 2023 at 8:20pm

Keep up the good fight tbb, 'for' the women, as you do.

Standingleft's picture
Standingleft's picture
Standingleft Sunday, 7 May 2023 at 8:44am

True Blue Basher never bashed anyone, he just likes the chesty bonds fit.

lickwid's picture
lickwid's picture
lickwid Sunday, 7 May 2023 at 9:02am

Sorry mate, completely misread your comment. I've spent to long in the shit areas of the internet with people who stir up nonsense. I did not understand the context to your comment. The nature and content of the article had me thinking you had gone and collected a bunch of links and information, about funding positive programs using surfing, to insinuate that all these extra people in the surf was because of minority groups. That you were trying to imply it was a gentleman's sport, and these other people didn't belong.

Basically I fucked up and misinterpreted your post in the complete opposite direction you intended it to come across. I think it was the '30% of blowins are women and rising' part of the post that made me think you had negative intentions. I haven't come across any of your other comments, and was unaware of the context of where you were coming from.

There are a few people across swellnet, and places like beachgrit, etc. who are just vehemently anti-women/ anti-minorities/ racist/ etc. As soon as I incorrectly labelled the post in my own head, that comment I made was just autopilot for me. Sorry mate.

zenagain's picture
zenagain's picture
zenagain Sunday, 7 May 2023 at 9:04am

Good man lickwid. Shows character.

basesix's picture
basesix's picture
basesix Sunday, 7 May 2023 at 9:23am

Good result.

icandig's picture
icandig's picture
icandig Sunday, 7 May 2023 at 9:47am

Your original comment was based on noble intentions. Good on ya Lickwid.

Standingleft's picture
Standingleft's picture
Standingleft Sunday, 7 May 2023 at 10:11am

"sorry mate" - applause
sincere apology should be enough but if you really want to make it up, go back and read every tbb post
lol - good luck with that haha

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Sunday, 7 May 2023 at 2:03pm

Nice Lickwid. Respect

truebluebasher's picture
truebluebasher's picture
truebluebasher Monday, 8 May 2023 at 11:20am

We basherz are a hardcore defensive endangered species!
Boardriders: "All swear 1,000x over they've never seen a basher on 'their' wave!"...All say aye!

100% Ocean are we, so we often speak in a brutally honest rough'n'tumble Surf language.
truebluebasher is exactly that...defender of the blue planet's natural order...Surfjustsurf

Easy not to see a basher, then easier to not hear us...we up the tone to Anarchist Punk language!
Anarchist ramblings are renowned to breach the peace...lickwid was rightly defending the peace.
tbb usually let's it ride but never when it breaches the core!...lickwid has apologized, all is cool!

Swellnet crew are devout advocates of women's surfing & Mental Health.
Any such comment contravenes crew mantra of respecting our surf sisters...ask any or the boss!

swellnet allows us mental bashers to share Huey's stoke as wild as it may sound & often does!
tbb salutes #1swellnet frontline mental health unit...they speak our language!
Most thankful to swellnet crew for kind regards & all here are onboard with restoring peace.

Party wave of the day~~~~^~~~~/`~~~~/\~~~~/(~~~~/(C`..[tbb-lickwid-crew-sisters)

Goodwolf's picture
Goodwolf's picture
Goodwolf Tuesday, 9 May 2023 at 12:14pm

Well done on owning it. A good example for all of us.

frog's picture
frog's picture
frog Saturday, 6 May 2023 at 3:05pm

Surfing - a mental health cure?

Yes, for a few so inclined with access to uncrowded good waves.

And, helpful for those with patience, fitness, weather knowledge, free time, ability to wake early, skill and willingness to chase, fail and deal with frustration to keep healthy. But if that is you, your mental health is probably OK in the first place.

However, if getting off the couch to deal with depression or anxiety, is difficult, crowded Snapper or surf chasing fickle conditions in many locations might not motivate you enough or help much with peace of mind.

Over promise and under deliver seems to be in play pushing surfing as a cure.

frog's picture
frog's picture
frog Saturday, 6 May 2023 at 7:28pm

TBB by my above comment i meant government, WSL, surf school operators and influencers pushing surfing as a general mental health cure all (and marketing angle) - not in reference to or in any way intending to diminish your surfing needs.

In your situation, with a long surfing history and difficult health issues, a simple, satisfying body bash on a peeling point or beach would have big benefits for your health and happiness.

The points are a battle but are the miles of empty Gold Coast shorebreaks not suitable for you?

I have often bodysurfed them when at the beach with my kids - mostly short rides but warm and fun. The sucky ones can be exciting even when just 2 ft

truebluebasher's picture
truebluebasher's picture
truebluebasher Monday, 8 May 2023 at 2:14pm

frog...that's exactly why Dan + tbb + crew put it up on the White Board...to have a crack!

Let's be honest...whole crew could benefit in knowing the NDIS Surf School program / Cost.
It is front page news...perfectly Ok to check out why that is...In fact we'll do that right now!
tbb is best obliged to do this > All done...good work...(Check NDIS Surf Lesson prices below)

Albo is cutting back $60b 10 year NDIS while runnin' Psycho Surf Safaris?

NDIS "Price limit" Chart for Care / Nursing /Therapeutic Outings
tbb is on disability support & it's appropriate to access & share these costs.
Please...no one accuse anyone of something sinister...just checking out NDIS Boardriders Club!

(The Basics) - Care $80/hr Nurse $120/hr > Clinical $220/hr
Group Physio $60/hr > Job Training $100hr > High intensive Group Rec $100/hr

"Other Pros" VIP / Posh Group Rate (re: Therapy Group can be billed at individual rates)

*Other Pro's Surf School claims $50 travel rebate + $200/hr a head for Group Baptisms

Albo joins the Dole Bludger queue for his free $250 Surf lesson at Locals Only Recovery Hang!
Nice work if ya can get it!

Ok! All good..all are on the same page with the NDIS Boardriding Club.

NDIS Pricing Arrangements and Price Limits 2022-23 (PDF) effective 5 May 2023
Page [92] Therapy Supports (7 or Older) *Other Professional
PDF Direct Access (Not Likely...still gotta pretend it links!)

tbb also highlighted the rise of VIP Chix Surfin' / Skateboardin'
Grom Skateboarder Sky Brown plugs VOLVOS

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Saturday, 6 May 2023 at 9:45pm

It appears Nate Florence having a similar experience / frustrations in Tahiti. Different wave, different conditions but similar phenomenon.

Interesting listen from 17:50 onwards:


kooklife's picture
kooklife's picture
kooklife Sunday, 21 May 2023 at 7:27am

Sounds exactly like the Gold Coast at 6 ft.......skis and step offs everywhere. Surfers with money or status driven by their selfish desire to score (and get social media footage) ruining it for the average punter out there on their day off having a crack......

surf.rat's picture
surf.rat's picture
surf.rat Sunday, 7 May 2023 at 6:41am

Yep, Surfing has lost it's way.

The biggest issue with crowds is the attitude. I've had great surfs with respectful crowds and terrible surfs with just one or two people thanks to their head-up-their ass attitudes. Yes, there is a numbers game when it's really crowded, which can make it hard to find a wave but it's those not so crowded days where you're surrounded by greedy fuckwits ruining your surf that are the worst.
Learn to share and play nicely you annoying fucks out there who think the world owes them every wave.
I truly get such a buzz when I give away a wave to someone else. Just a simple act of sharing but it has a powerful result at both ends. The look on their face is priceless when I say "Go, go" as they realize someone was willing to share.
Best to lead by example and show kindness to our fellow surfers, but I also feel letting greedy people get away with their ridicules actions is paramount to condoning them.
Surfing motto should be something simple like this = I will give you a wave any day but I will also school you if you dare cross the line.
If we all schooled the greedy fucks out there together, most would eventually get the message.
So when I have to tell some fool he/she was doing something very stupid/greedy/dangerous, please back me up or you all will also pay the price for their stupidity one day.

surf.rat's picture
surf.rat's picture
surf.rat Sunday, 7 May 2023 at 6:50am

I would love to get some Wetshirts printed with surfing rules so that all the noobs out there could be educated while they paddle around.
Some rules would be
- By paddling up the inside of me, you forfeit your right to catch a wave and give me explicit permission to drop in on you.
- By paddling straight back to the top of the peak after just catching a set wave, you forfeit your right to catch a wave and give me explicit permission to drop in on you.
-If you fail to be aware of, and look-out for your fellow surfer you must immediately hang your head in shame and hand your board back in. [Surfing is dangerous and people die in the surf, so we all have a duty to perform a rescue where/when possible.]
-etc, etc

Ray Shirlaw's picture
Ray Shirlaw's picture
Ray Shirlaw Sunday, 7 May 2023 at 11:45am

Excuse my unawareness but is "Back-paddling" another way of
saying "Snaking" or something else? ***disclaimer ; in the U.S. it seems Snaking actually means Dropping in. Im confused

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Sunday, 7 May 2023 at 11:48am

I would think back paddling is when you paddle say 30m deeper than the pack to take the ones that hit a different spot, then back paddle as a set approach to take one off the pack.

mikehunt207's picture
mikehunt207's picture
mikehunt207 Sunday, 7 May 2023 at 11:58am

Back paddling is when someone just paddles out or comes back after a wave and paddles right past you to a deeper position, Hawaiian term (maybe seppo?) , would be considered snaking also
Classic name and shame goofy footed drop in guy on above gold coast "enforcing"clip, well found @ lostdoggy, the profile shot pretty much says enough, social media ...why do people do it to themselves, I guess he is a celebrity now so pretty much achieved what is the socials goal being insta famous !

surf.rat's picture
surf.rat's picture
surf.rat Monday, 8 May 2023 at 7:32am

This is the "reality" video from the superwank. Not the shinny, everything is grand ones.

The goofy at the start who drops in multiple times is such a kook. I can't believe the audacity to be such a kook and think it's OK to burn everyone. Apparently he is a "Local" so that makes it OK.

Remigogo's picture
Remigogo's picture
Remigogo Monday, 8 May 2023 at 7:58pm

What a shitshow. I'd also hate to send me kids to the nearest skate park.

Local hospital must be kept busy.

truebluebasher's picture
truebluebasher's picture
truebluebasher Monday, 8 May 2023 at 7:51pm

Surfing Psychotherapy is a Freakout..
tbb has only just started to research the origin & end game!
Just gonna present the end game...this will blow yer mind!

International Surf Therapy Organization...(Think like a Mental International Rescue!)

tbb thought if they can sell Surfboard Massage as Therapy.
Well, why not sell Surf Travel Insurance for Surf Therapy Safaris...

So we arrive at Premium Private Health Insurance Surf Recovery Safaris...well durr!
{ Surf therapy Travel }
Expert Facilitators will freak you out...If you tip them enough!

$4,550 Algarve Portugal 1week 5 Surfboard riding lessons + 2 Yoga Sessions (I feel better Now!)
100% Ultimate VIP Surfing Recovery pamper packs!

basesix's picture
basesix's picture
basesix Tuesday, 9 May 2023 at 1:42pm

don't cry for us frog, this is what southerners see when shire footage is posted:

Mattgallagher90's picture
Mattgallagher90's picture
Mattgallagher90 Wednesday, 10 May 2023 at 3:44pm

Cool article mate. A conundrum I scratch my head about all the time. Just have to get off the beaten track. Still uncrowded waves out there!

Old Gregg's picture
Old Gregg's picture
Old Gregg Saturday, 20 May 2023 at 4:43pm

Yep. I remember asking swellnet if the rumours were true. Were they really going to be adding all these new cameras along the coast? The answer was No but a few years later and look where we are!! The folk of Geelong can check the surf from their lounge chair on any number of beaches and the bank for the day gets hammered.

Wandi's picture
Wandi's picture
Wandi Monday, 22 May 2023 at 12:36pm

On a side note
I pretty much refuse to watch anything super bank related.
I couldn't think of anything worse of sitting out in that lineup.
The super nightmare.
Dream waves with no chance of riding them unhindered

truebluebasher's picture
truebluebasher's picture
truebluebasher Monday, 24 Jul 2023 at 3:02pm

War erupts in Bulli over Sandon Point Beach (vs) Maroubra Blow-ins!
News articles on colourful beach signage [Locals Only] [F_ _ K off Blowins] [F_ _K off Kooks]


stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Monday, 24 Jul 2023 at 3:22pm

There's no war.

Imagine a bunch of kids writing a sign on their cubby house that says 'Go Away!'

Now imagine a bunch of uptight Karen's get offended thinking it's an indictment upon the whole community. They take it to the local media, the story then springboards to international media, and the kids cack themself at the insanity of it all.

World's gone mad...

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Monday, 24 Jul 2023 at 3:26pm

Like the Mornington's covid pranksters' signage, peace be upon them...

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Monday, 24 Jul 2023 at 8:23pm

Stu gets an interview here:


maybe it's the same article? But I can access this one.

truebluebasher's picture
truebluebasher's picture
truebluebasher Monday, 26 Feb 2024 at 2:54am

swellnet hodads thank Dan for sharing insightful wisdom.
Might just of opened up a new train of thought for Hodads to take control to sort out our own mess.

First gotta admit that Hodads run Tribal Surf Councils & Gromz just gotta suck it up & tow the line.
Wait their turn in the pecking order...But...there is much Hodads can do, to thin out impact zones.
Requires no quotas or restrictions but instead opens up more rides for even larger crowds.
Did tbb mention this will not cost one extra dollar or more coastline or new Wavepools.
It does require appropriate broadest mindset of all surfing possibility...say WTF is that tbb...(No idea!)

So wotz this Voodoo Magic that hodad tbb speaks of..."We Hodads call it Mindset!" ( See above! )
Sure! None of us know what it means but we know it's a good thing...maybe...but none ever tried it.
Let's pretend our Local Tribal Surf Council Sticker reads [ Mindset over Matter ]...Huh!
Kinda like Table Of Knowledge...sounds like the real deal & they'll sort all Lineup bingles!

We all see crowds of all ability flock to the impact zone...
Keep plasterin the same Stickers that clog yer line up to spew up & eat itself alive.
Going nowhere fast with each ride less rewarding than last...all know it & Surf Stoke is fading fast!
But that's 100% Hodad Surf Pro's Fault...How / Why!

All know why but never question the Mindset of dullard retarded Surf Progression.
A+B+C = More Kooks nailed in Impact Zone. (Kaboom!) Need not be that way!

Hodad tbb is willing to apply his insightful Mindset.
All sick of these excuses...
Local Pro : "Sorry bout mowin' ya down!"
Big Mouth Grom : "Chiko Chix can't surf Pipe!"
Chiko Chix : "So this is not the Party Wave...Oops! Oops! Again! & Again!"
Hodad : "Didn't hear ya..."Thru me Helmet!".

But wotz this one...only Hodads do this one & they never shut up about it...Shut up Pops!
Hodad Comp fan : "That's not a [10] Never even finished the ride...should deduct points!" OMG!
Bingo...After 60 years { Hodad Mindset Lights Up the Swtchboard } OMG...that's the Answer...Wot?

Quote # 1 Surf Journo Stunet..."Will the Pros Take Off Out the Back at Sunset!" OMG...Hodad Drool!
( Pure masterpiece of Surf Journalism) All know why...Coz Hodad sticks it to the Sticker Men! F.U.
Hodad Rebel stands his ground..." This is not Proper Surfin'...Stu is 100% right!
So wot Now! Hodads go back to sleep! Blah Blah Blah!

Hang about...Wot about environment + Sense of Belonging + Rewarding Progress + Economy of Scale.
Hodads know everything about { Economy of Scale }...so as for now, we apply that Mindset for starters!

Hodad surfers be like tree huggerz (vs) The Merch Men want the quick buckshot on tap. Bang! Bang!
So lets give all maniacs wot they want...are you crazy! Nope! Surf under waves thru the Sky...woteva

Let each surfer live out their dream fantasy & all yer line up problems disappear on their own! WTF!

If Surf Media / Judges keep rewarding Claims for a deep Pit / Next Big Air as [10] = Sudden Impact!
Ask! Where is all of tomorrow's everybody gonna hang for their fix...
The only place they know is...(Right There...X marks the Spot!) All seen it 1,000 million times over!
Only ever right there where every surfer ever judges the exact same [10]
Let's all hit the very same impact zone to secure our shit hot #[10] Silly Season Session!
Coz if we don't...no pressure! The whole surf safari is fucked & we're branded as Kooks...(Like Forever!)
Simply Perfect it's gonna be...That's everyone's Plan! Film the Perfect [10] ... #@*%! Can't breathe!

Now apply some Hodad Tribal Council Mindset to burn all Judges Score Scales...Coz they're all shit & all say so!
Judge stands his ground to reward Chiko Chix steepest ever Slab drop & recover...Scary as all fuck! [10]
Judge rewards smallest micro feather Grom for tackling furthest ever out to sea Sunset Peak...Plucky [10]
Judge rewards Oldest Heaviest Surfer extra points for Swithfootin' a kick flip ankle snapper-Wow Pops! [10]
Judge rewards Jock Pro for longest ever nose ride reform inside pick up...Nailed it...Old School Drool [10]
All totally justified if we Hodads shift our mindset away from severely impacted impact zone..All win Medals!
Not one air or deep pit...but all break new ground in surfing Progression in their own right...All can now come alive!

Tomorrows Stickers roll off the press...Like Disneyland...everyone gets a sticker & World checks it out!
New Surf Bucks are flowing further to all in all directions at once...Shackles are broken...We're Born Free!
The impact zone takes a breath...one by one each little critter returns to reclaim their Bikini Bottom!

Chix now sit deeper, now blowing more take offs! (Shoulder Hoppin' kooks claim their Dream wave!)
Helmeted Deaf Hodads & Dart tossing Dads can now swoop teetering kooks & leave the crew be.
Big fat lazy Dads are inshore wigglin' their Hodad hips for an end game claim for a bag of trix.
Jocks are driftin' far off shoulders to boss impossible reforms to sweat next week's extra micro point...Winner!
The cocky gromz...are where! Half way out to sea dreaming up WOTD.
Dolphins have less loops to hoop now bossin' faster inside Slam Fest...pests begone! Super Stoked!

All because the Local Tribal Surf Council changed their Mindset to reward Pure Surf Stoke!
Only we Hodads have the power to whip up this magic...How about it...then make it so.

Dry Docked Hodad tbb waves his consultancy fees...Happy to share the Stoke from the cheap seats!
Surf Stoke Line Up clearance is free of charge as it should be...
Just use yer brains to reward all Surfers for being their best...Line up remains an oasis for all critters.

Here's the best part...Surf Council is rewarded Enviro grants for detoxing their local lineup. Our Heroes!
The local now looks a million bucks & we got Crabs'n'Turtles all sorts of biting things & say wot!

Free to surf for those surfing freely...sorts itself out with a gentle loving wave of a Hodad Wand.
Only asking fellow Hodads to step up & live their Old School Mantra...so yer lineup can breathe!
Only you can make magic happen, by bringing out the best in fellow surfers you cleanse yer lineups!

Waves for everyone from here to eternity but the impact zone is shared by most worldly lifeforms.
Impact zone is the heart...let it remain pure & free as our cherished sacrosanct oasis for creatures to be.