Watch: Tesoro Enterrado

Stu Nettle
Swellnet Dispatch

Words by Torren Martyn:

The little mission down south to warm water came around as a bit of a surprise to me too. I’d originally planned to just spend a week or two with my girlfriend Aiyana in California and pictured surfing knee to waist high Malibu at best. One idea led to another as most good times do and before we really knew it Aiyana and I were rolling south of where we were currently camped out driving in awe through these beautiful snow capped mountains in the Eastern Sierras on a fairly straight mission south to a serious contrast of scenes. We were pretty excited!

A good mate Perry Gershkow was able to juggle a few commitments around his neck of the woods of SF and before we really had too much time to think we kind of just woke up the next day deep in central America. It was a classic little scenario.

I was travelling with two boards, a 7’2 and a 6’10. It’s so rare that I break a board, maybe one or two a year? Anyhow I managed to break them both in the first couple of days. I guess I was rattled and disheartened when the first broke and then when the second went, I was kind of just baffled like "ha ha really!?" Luckily the local guys there have probably stitched together more boards than anyone anywhere else in the world so it was a pretty efficient little turn around and I was so grateful for that. Thankfully my mate Luke lent me his little 5’7 and a 4’11 for a wiggle in between.

The waves we had down there were absolutely incredible, sort of mind boggling at times. It’s humbling the energy in the ocean and the way the sand and currents dictated where and what waves we surfed. They were there one day and gone the next. I think that was the beauty of it too, we didn’t really have any expectations or too much of a plan, things just fell in to place and I wouldn’t change a thing.

For me it was one of those spontaneous experiences made up of the combination of good people, the land, weather and a little luck on our side that are a friendly little reminder of just how lucky we all are to have this to share. Happy days!"

Surfer: Torren Martyn
Filmmaker: Perry Gershkow
Surfboards: Simon Jones - Morning of the Earth
Produced by: needessentials
Music: 

  • Gibson Kente - Saduva
  • Thrupence - How to be invisible
  • Midlife - How long does it take
  • Sandy's - I and I

Comments

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba commented Tuesday, 23 Jul 2019 at 5:49am

haha twin fins dont work in the barrel.......sure i read that somewhere.

simba

The MIDdleman.'s picture
The MIDdleman.'s picture
The MIDdleman. commented Tuesday, 23 Jul 2019 at 8:35am

Watched the first 2 minutes on the phone... decided to save it for the beer and TV tonight.

Signature.

derra83's picture
derra83's picture
derra83 commented Tuesday, 23 Jul 2019 at 8:40am

That last section is incredible! A bowling, pitching pointbreak.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo commented Tuesday, 23 Jul 2019 at 9:29am

Ripping Tubehound
More waves on the 5'7 and 4'11 please...would give Asher a run for his money.

kaki bibaita

Ape Anonymous's picture
Ape Anonymous's picture
Ape Anonymous commented Tuesday, 23 Jul 2019 at 10:15am

Excellent. Put this guy on a Claw.

Ash's picture
Ash's picture
Ash commented Tuesday, 23 Jul 2019 at 11:46am

Nice vid Need. When most are going shorter and shorter for various reasons Torren's going it on a 6'10 and a 7'2. I found myself drifting off with the music and his fluid lines, his tube riding didn't suffer on those boards either. Reminded me that one of my favorite boards is a 6'10 by MC

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno commented Tuesday, 23 Jul 2019 at 2:06pm

Yep they are the undiscovered secret. Very graceful takeoffs and bottom turns, you see a bit of it in the late 60's footage from vee bottoms to the midlength pintails. He rides them well in tubes.

Westofthelake's picture
Westofthelake's picture
Westofthelake commented Tuesday, 23 Jul 2019 at 12:08pm

Time-warped barrel fest. Loved the casual approach and surfing style.

fuhrious's picture
fuhrious's picture
fuhrious commented Tuesday, 23 Jul 2019 at 12:31pm

Hey Simba I also remember that quote about twin fins not working in hollow waves but can’t remember who wrote that. Maybe Stu knows? Any idea Stu?

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet commented Tuesday, 23 Jul 2019 at 12:58pm

I didn't see Simba's comment.

No, what I mean is, I'm ignoring Simba's comment.

Just like I'm ignoring yours.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet commented Tuesday, 23 Jul 2019 at 1:34pm

 

 

 

 

...back again.

The reason I'm ignoring your comment - and Simba's - is that acknowledging it would give implicit approval to you as a pioneer of the long rail twin fin, which, as you could imagine, doesn't sit well with me.

Like, the Fuhrer, a pioneer?

Naaaah....

So I'm ignoring it.

Again.

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay commented Tuesday, 23 Jul 2019 at 2:27pm

Wow, he's gotten good.

And the waves in that final segment; unfcukenreal.

gordie's picture
gordie's picture
gordie commented Tuesday, 23 Jul 2019 at 5:05pm

That and Micheal February’s clip is hands down the best surfing I’ve seen this year. I could watch those styles all day long. There is definitely something very enjoyable about minimalist surfing.
Give me that over the sticker brigade every time.
Great stuff.

Gordie

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno commented Tuesday, 23 Jul 2019 at 7:28pm

There was also a Torren flick at Noosa on a short twinnie where he's weaving through the crowd that had some fast, fluid and imaginative surfing. vertical reo drift I liked lots, he's a great surfer

mr mick's picture
mr mick's picture
mr mick commented Tuesday, 23 Jul 2019 at 8:25pm

Was in Sri Lanka 2 years ago, had the pleasure of watching him surf A-Bay, Peanuts etc, great style, nice guy as well, down to earth. Funny though, i gave him the heads up about the night bus back to Colombo. I took the earlier one, him the later. I got zero sleep as we were subjected to 8 hours of shit Bollywood movie/music, unrelenting!! He informed me at airport....great sleep...great bus trip. All i could do was laugh. Great waves in that clip!

Mr mick

zenagain's picture
zenagain's picture
zenagain commented Tuesday, 23 Jul 2019 at 9:18pm

Hard to fault that clip- great surfing, lovely waves, local scenes and groovy tunes.

A+

Watashi wa metabo oyagi desu.

peterb's picture
peterb's picture
peterb commented Tuesday, 23 Jul 2019 at 9:46pm

Don't know about you blokes, but I'm seeing Wayne Lynch, Nat, MP, Rasta and D Hynd in that effortless style of grace and pace.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet commented Wednesday, 24 Jul 2019 at 8:11am

I was thinking the same myself, at least the Nat and MP parts, but wasn't game to say it publicly lest I be burnt at the stake for heresy.

peterb's picture
peterb's picture
peterb commented Wednesday, 24 Jul 2019 at 10:13am

That little hand-jive ....

Polly2's picture
Polly2's picture
Polly2 commented Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 9:57am

Definitively spot on. Soul surfing, rail to rail and looking effortless while totally committed and at ease with whatever the outcome... it’s an artist expressing their connection with the ocean and an awesome piece of film that will always be relevant.. cheers boiz and Thankyou

Ajp

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo commented Tuesday, 23 Jul 2019 at 10:00pm

Yep for sure ..Lots of MP
Reckon Torren could replicate the famous cutback..

kaki bibaita

ruckus's picture
ruckus's picture
ruckus commented Tuesday, 23 Jul 2019 at 10:59pm

All this bloke does is go on wicked trips and get wicked pits. Onya Torren Onya Need

boxright's picture
boxright's picture
boxright commented Wednesday, 24 Jul 2019 at 10:44am

There's a section of Nat filmed at Lennox in one of Steve Core's films and you could swap it for Torren. Wonder what size his feet are???

ojackojacko's picture
ojackojacko's picture
ojackojacko commented Wednesday, 24 Jul 2019 at 12:38pm

he's so good. this one at j bay
https://vimeo.com/340125714

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo commented Wednesday, 24 Jul 2019 at 2:50pm

Jeezus that fin at 10 sec

kaki bibaita

ojackojacko's picture
ojackojacko's picture
ojackojacko commented Thursday, 25 Jul 2019 at 9:41am

it is f*cking huge

kidkaos's picture
kidkaos's picture
kidkaos commented Thursday, 25 Jul 2019 at 8:31am

Minor correction required.
3rd track in credits should read - 'How Long Does It Take' by Mildlife.
Rightfully paired with Torren's surfing; Stylish, Graceful, Poised.
The world needs more of this shit!
Hats off to to all involved.

kidkaos

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet commented Thursday, 25 Jul 2019 at 8:41am

Yep, looks like a mix up between tracks 3 and 4. Fixed now.

Cheers...

GODS QUAD's picture
GODS QUAD's picture
GODS QUAD commented Thursday, 25 Jul 2019 at 10:40am

Smooth as butter. I watched that final section with my mouth hanging open the entire time. Dreamy waves and beautiful wave dancing. So farkkkking good!

Ape Anonymous's picture
Ape Anonymous's picture
Ape Anonymous commented Thursday, 25 Jul 2019 at 2:01pm

Not too sure if it's "dreamy", pretty darn heavy water don't you think? the sound track and smooth lines of the rad surfer make a dangerous wave look deceivingly easy. I mean, look at some of the take-offs! Fully fins-free on-the-edge type stuff.

The 5'7" segment was inspiring. Seemed to max out the top speed of the board and fins, and push the limit of the curves that each fin and rail can do: check out the down-carve when he comes out of the barrel, he almost lifted the whole fin -and consequently the rail- out of the water by yanking on it with his back hand. Had to immediately shift his weight back over the fin to stop the board rotating from the front and sliding out.at top speed in a critical place!

Heavy hitting, Torren, good work!

spuddyjack's picture
spuddyjack's picture
spuddyjack commented Friday, 26 Jul 2019 at 3:30pm

Just absolutely fa#rkn beautiful stuff . . . unequivocal Torren's possessed by MP.
Keep them coming Stu!!!

Stay salty

greg-n.williams's picture
greg-n.williams's picture
greg-n.williams commented Sunday, 28 Jul 2019 at 7:07pm

WOW! amazing surfing in beautiful tubes! Love the board& style of surfing! The channels hold in & the twinny allows Torren's relaxed style to complement the barrel fest on the 7'4"beautifully.

Trollntroffpig's picture
Trollntroffpig's picture
Trollntroffpig commented Sunday, 28 Jul 2019 at 8:11pm

This guy rips. Can vouch these Simon Jones boards are also amazing. Just a shame they're made of fairy floss! Extremely light glass jobs, easily broken. Kinda runs counter to the whole aesthetic. Buyer beware.